iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
My iHeat comes in today and I plan on using it with a p80 mod. Is there anything I should know going into this that’ll make my first bowl as nice as possible? Any resistance settings to change? Or do I just set the wattage and go?

You do not need to worry about resistance if you are just trying it and wattage, set and go, instant heat :tup:

(I think there is a secret menu in the stock P80 firmware to put the auto shut off from 10 seconds to 15 at least)
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
If @KeroZen or anyone does have PID enabled for the iHeat what are our preferred values?

I wonder if those were used in setting up the DNA profile? Maybe there's a way you can track down those settings...?

Oh also forgot to mention, when you pointed out the size of your IH on the Ravage, I really do prefer single battery mod for iHeat especially because of its compact size, but also since it heats so quickly the battery life is quite efficient in my experience...
 
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Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
So I have it at 39w but I have to preheat for a bit to get vapor and it’s difficult to get a dark roast. It’s also super easy to overpower the heater. How high should i turn it?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
So I have it at 39w but I have to preheat for a bit to get vapor and it’s difficult to get a dark roast. It’s also super easy to overpower the heater. How high should i turn it?

Hm it should be pretty instant, try 45 watts? Or just draw a slower than you were, the air flow is wide open, so lower wattage slower draw, maybe you are drawing too fast if you are overpowering the heater...
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
@arb sent me one of these to play with, been a little busy and haven't had a ton of time to use it, but it's been pretty fun so far . First on demand I've played with since testing the Bowle. Only real quibble thus far is I've been getting a consistent hot spot right off center of the stem, seems like it's occurring right over the end of the spiral coil. But besides that it's pretty cool, airflow is very open and the heatup time to vapor seems quite fast.
 

BakedDiogenes

Well-Known Member
So I have it at 39w but I have to preheat for a bit to get vapor and it’s difficult to get a dark roast. It’s also super easy to overpower the heater. How high should i turn it?
Alan sent my unit out at 42W. I can move the screen down quite a bit and still get a good brown roast if I slow my draw a bit.

I’ve also found that building up my draw speed from slow to ideal like a Sticky Brick seems to keep things pretty even.

79118FC8-1C82-43EC-B253-9D3544977930.jpeg
Caught Polyphemus eyeballing my Underdog the other night😂
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Gonna mess with it some more this morning, here’s a photo from my last session, still getting that central hot spot.
904374-EF-DC1-A-49-DB-A1-E0-4-F90-AAEE40-C6.jpg
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
Gonna mess with it some more this morning, here’s a photo from my last session, still getting that central hot spot.
904374-EF-DC1-A-49-DB-A1-E0-4-F90-AAEE40-C6.jpg
Does your unit have the 3/8" diameter ss foil disc in the center of the screen? I have found that it eliminates the central hot spot since the hot air enters the perimeter of the bowl. I also like to move the basket screen closer to the end of the tube so that the air doesn't have a chance to get back together in the center of the tube. The closer screen also exposes less of the roasting tube wall which takes heat away from the roast.
The ss foil disc can be added if you don't have one.
BTW I have arrived at your name on the waiting list @arb
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I've started at 150 but might pop it up as I've had to switch to wattage to finish the first few stems

Encouraging early results in wattage on the new Goo Roo too
View attachment 10175

Have you tried locking cold resistance this time by the way? I think Alan uses wattage anyway, temp control can be tricky, also so subjective with each one being unique especially to the individual user!
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Taking improvaper tip from here, a Silicone "ring" for 14mm stem, in my case Arizer Solo II WPA::
https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/c8k65a this Silicone - makes the iHeat 510's heater a bit away from the bowl. TUBO software TCR 145, locked at minus 0.008 resistance than cold, from 190C. not Cruising! on-demand.. awesome taste! even cooking 100%. going to 200C without stirring and it's still even cooking pure taste ....(32W btw) . I like the combination of microload + far from the heater.... at 215C after 1 stirr still tastes well...230C bowl is done just before popcorn taste. neutral taste.
@Alan I use your Silicone from the 14mm adapter to the Heat Island. very useful thing..
 
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GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
tubomyevic software, Solo II WPA, Silicone for pseudo-19mm, bowl is a bit away from the heater, TCR 120, Resistance: 0.008 below cold value. 260C (the fast draw takes it back to 210c~) 35W 5-6 seconds pre-heat. zero combustion

but I now limit the hit to 250c
 
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invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
How are you mating the Solo stem, a silicone O-ring, or is it whip tubing?

I’ll have to play with the iHeat some more this morning, gonna send it home soon to its owner soon. It’s been pretty fun!

I think with the diffuser added as @Alan mentioned above would be nice!
 

TeaCup

Well-Known Member

Ah, so you did end up getting the Rim C. How you likin' it? I wanted a tube mod but couldn't find anything that ran arctic, and all the rest were either cheap shit or suuuuper expensive. Found this and took a chance that it would be "tubey" enough. Totally is! And the button is really easy to push, especially when used like a long microphone, the weight of everything kinda just presses down on my thumb and stays there. Gonna bust out my Rim & Stempod tonight in honor!
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Ah, so you did end up getting the Rim C. How you likin' it? I wanted a tube mod but couldn't find anything that ran arctic, and all the rest were either cheap shit or suuuuper expensive. Found this and took a chance that it would be "tubey" enough. Totally is! And the button is really easy to push, especially when used like a long microphone, the weight of everything kinda just presses down on my thumb and stays there. Gonna bust out my Rim & Stempod tonight in honor!
The Rim C has worked well, though I prefer the extra juice of two cell mods for my other 510s. It flashed with the latest Arctic Fox beta and the size is a great fit as you can see. It shines in wattage on a glass joint-packed bubbler from 32 to 35W. TC is pretty good too but I can easily overwhelm the heater if I draw more quickly
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Taking my opinion back on the Solo II WPA. it's not meant for open wided airflow..(tiny 4 holes...) it meant for conduction vapes
Basket loads still awesome for me and i run it on 225c, 18/18 adapter 0.05gr in a basket. top experience! (on-demand)
 
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