looks very nice!I make a desktop vaporizer called the Insta Heat (aka iHeat) which consists of a base section with a 12 volt input that controls the voltage to the upper heater section. The two sections are connected together with 510 threaded fittings which allows the upper heater section to be connected to a suitable mod box making it into a portable unit. Therefore, I am including the iHeat 510 heater cartridge portion in the portable vaporizers section.
The herb is roasted in an 18mm tapered tube w/ 12mm ss basket screen that fits into the taper of the heater section. The roasting tube can be either glass or wood with an 19/22 mm end.
The heater section can be made with a tapered glass insert or the taper can just be cut into the wood body. The minimum diameter of the glass insert model is 1.25”. The minimum diameter of the all wood model is 1”.
Here is a comparison of the all wood body and a wood body w/ glass insert. Both units are 1.25” in diameter and 2.25” long. The glass insert is held in place with a silicone sleeve to allow for some shock absorption. The 510 deck is slides into the wood body so that no glue is required for the heater cartridge assembly.
Here is a photo of bamboo and highly figured walnut units with the taper cut into the body. The walnut unit is 1” in diameter and the bamboo unit is slightly smaller. Both are 2.25” long. The 18650 battery is for size comparison.
Here is how it looks on a mod box.
The mod box should have a capacity of 50 watts or more for best performance. My preference is for a volt / watt regulated mod box so that it will automatically adjust the voltage to maintain a set wattage. The heater cartridge resistance changes as the temperature changes, so it is nice to have the voltage control to maintain a constant heat output. Battery status and low voltage protection are other nice features of many mod boxes.
I’m looking at some side by side mod boxes that will accept a 1” cartridge to keep the profile low.
The iHeat 510 cartridge will also work on a simple mechanical mod, but requires manual temperature control.
Contact me at alan@toasty-top.com to get on a waiting list for one. It is the same list I am using for the Heat Islands, so you will have a choice between the Toasty Top, Heat Island, or Insta Heat when I arrive at your name. The only cost is your patience.
There are a few all wood units in the hands of some beta testers, so I hope to get some feedback soon.
That's cool AF! definitely gonna try it out myself. Well doneThank for posting the photos and video @GoldenBud
Glad you are enjoying it.
Here is my latest creation.
Had a few extra glass fittings when I first started making the iHeat, but then never used them since I switched to cutting the taper into the wood. Also had a few champagne corks that I hadn't planned on using, so I put them together with a 510 deck and spiral coil heater. It works just like a regular iHeat. The glass and 510 deck are just pressed into the cork, so they can be removed/replaced. Not sure why I never thought of it before, it is so simple.
Still working on a batch of spiral coil heaters, so I can put together a few more iHeat units.
I recently received a DNA mod as a throw in with an EE purchase, TC profiles for multiple devices were already loaded. My first DNA mod, but I don’t know anything about DNA mods as I went AF/RP/Tubo mods right out the gate. Any simple primers available for a DNA noob who has no desire to learn ALL of the intricacies of a new mod ecosystem? It’s a beautiful mod and I will definitely plan on keeping it, even if I just run wattage devices only. But I’d like to at least learn the basic TC functionality of the mod. Thanks.I use TCR 290, resistance .32. I mostly run it on a DNA mod though, where I run it in ss430 with 45 W max and 350 Fahrenheit
Yea I mean you can download the free escribe program and change the settings on your computer, pretty much just like a AF mod, or you can change some settings directly on the device by using the buttons on your mod to adjust wattage and temp (as I stated in the quoted post, for the iheat I use ss430, 45 watt max, and 350 Fahrenheit.) You can also adjust the resistance on the mod directly by going into settings and then going into atomizer, and selecting the Ohm value and going up or down., but one of the good benefits of the DNA mod imo is a highly accurate resistance reading so I would just use the cold-read resistance the mod gives you.I recently received a DNA mod as a throw in with an EE purchase, TC profiles for multiple devices were already loaded. My first DNA mod, but I don’t know anything about DNA mods as I went AF/RP/Tubo mods right out the gate. Any simple primers available for a DNA noob who has no desire to learn ALL of the intricacies of a new mod ecosystem? It’s a beautiful mod and I will definitely plan on keeping it, even if I just run wattage devices only. But I’d like to at least learn the basic TC functionality of the mod. Thanks.
Excellent. I’ve started to bumble my way through and figured out by accident how to get into some settings. This mod was primarily used with a Z Custom, but it’s too small and a Z looks really awkward sitting on top. Do you know if the Escribe software allow me to return it to factory settings and then use it in wattage mode only? Just curious, one of the profiles is wattage, but in case I want to simplify it even more.Yea I mean you can download the free escribe program and change the settings on your computer, pretty much just like a AF mod, or you can change some settings directly on the device by using the buttons on your mod to adjust wattage and temp (as I stated in the quoted post, for the iheat I use ss430, 45 watt max, and 350 Fahrenheit.) You can also adjust the resistance on the mod directly by going into settings and then going into atomizer, and selecting the Ohm value and going up or down., but one of the good benefits of the DNA mod imo is a highly accurate resistance reading so I would just use the cold-read resistance the mod gives you.
I believe so but my experience in escribe has mostly been limited to figuring out how to make the background of my mod a picture of my cat lol (which I highly recommend actually, being able to customize the screen in a ton of ways, including using your own photos, is a really fun part of the dna mod). The Escribe program is pretty easy to use though, so I would just recommend downloading it and poking around. You can also just switch to the wattage settings, that should be essentially the same thing as the factory settings.Excellent. I’ve started to bumble my way through and figured out by accident how to get into some settings. This mod was primarily used with a Z Custom, but it’s too small and a Z looks really awkward sitting on top. Do you know if the Escribe software allow me to return it to factory settings and then use it in wattage mode only? Just curious, one of the profiles is wattage, but in case I want to simplify it even more.
Nice clouds! I'd love to see some AVB results though. The last few AVB results seen here seemed to have hotspots...wow the ELEAF Rim-C is really great for the iHeat.. TCR 290, Resistance locked 0.320, 180C, 40W, 5 seconds preheat just before recording:
in this video, the inhalation is fast.. so the ABV was perfact. after that, i did few slower sessions ... so yeah the hotspots happend these times. not combustion, but big hotspot in the middle. after stirring i could get another big hit. 40W is too high, will post tomorrow if I'll find my sweet spot around 36W-37W limitation I guess..Nice clouds! I'd love to see some AVB results though. The last few AVB results seen here seemed to have hotspots...
Are you using PI settings? It'll probably improve performance significantly.in this video, the inhalation is fast.. so the ABV was perfact. after that, i did few slower sessions ... so yeah the hotspots happend these times. not combustion, but big hotspot in the middle. after stirring i could get another big hit. 40W is too high, will post tomorrow if I'll find my sweet spot around 36W-37W limitation I guess..
use 40W limits only for fast draws...
wow the ELEAF Rim-C is really great for the iHeat.. TCR 290 180C 40W, 5 seconds preheat just before recording:
PI is PID without the derivative value. Arctic fox only has PI. IDK really how to set it up correctly but p=600,I=90 works fine with my DIY. Search it up online.ok with 37W limitation it works great, huge cloud from half bowl, perfect ABV, will keep trying tho!
@XpeeN how to use PI Regulated? just enabling it? which values? thanks
(Isn't PID much smarter than PI?)
it works better, this way. it basically hits harder so i can reduce the wattage/temp. and somehow tastes slightly better! thanks bro!PI is PID without the derivative value. Arctic fox only has PI. IDK really how to set it up correctly but p=600,I=90 works fine with my DIY. Search it up online.
Glad I helped. I guess it's fine, I heard people set it at 50% or so. I advise using AF's monitor to check if the temp is consistent when you draw.it works better, this way. it basically hits harder so i can reduce the wattage/temp. and somehow tastes slightly better! thanks bro!
i set the Range % to 95 according to here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DivineTribeVaporizers/comments/h9v3eb
is it fine?
****B CAREFUL WHEN CRUSING WITH IHEAT.... don't let it cruise without inhaling! but if you pay attention you wont combust...
Auto firing same setting as previous video, just PI activated, the taste is like I'm eating fruit on some far Island.. (don't try to look at the mod's screen - the temp never reaches 180c but it feels like this range.. +-)
the load is around 0.05gr i assume
0.320 locked, 37w, TCR 290, 175C , 4 big hits 2 stirs and 50% as advised.Glad I helped. I guess it's fine, I heard people set it at 50% or so. I advise using AF's monitor to check if the temp is consistent when you draw.
And can you PLZ show the AVB after the hit you take next time or something? It's really interest me how well the AVB looks after it's kinda tuned in...
Did you update the stock firmware to something else or just change settings? Just picked one of these up to try with my iHeat.new Eleaf Rim-C arrived.. TCR 160 0.350 locked, 36W, 190C .. pure 510 spirit.. the ABV looks almost fresh after biiiig hiits
and yes, it also came this time with aluminium foil over the mod box, inside the package
yeah - check message #153 in the nfeforum - need to flash the eleaf firmware first, then through the specific NFE version install the Arctic Fox firmware:Did you update the stock firmware to something else or just change settings? Just picked one of these up to try with my iHeat.
yeah - check message #153 in the nfeforum - need to flash the eleaf firmware first, then through the specific NFE version install the Arctic Fox firmware:
Work In Progress - Public Beta: STM32 Branch
Make a puff finished with "Atomizer not found" and record data with Device Monitor with all charts enabled, then save data to .csv file and attach it...nfeteam.org
Did Artic Fox load prooerly on the Rim C? If so, any of your other 510 vapes working properly on it?Unfortunately, my Rim C will not recognize the iHeat. I followed @GoldenBud s instructions to a T, but to no avail.
Any thoughts on troubleshooting or suggestions for a iHeat compatible mod? I do have a Paranormal and hat works in wattage, but I get temp protect issues when running in TC.
Did Artic Fox load prooerly on the Rim C? If so, any of your other 510 vapes working properly on it?