iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge

[XpeeN]

So you screw the iHeat to the mod, and it doesn't recognize it? It sounds to me that you need to check that your heater and your 510 connector are screwed right.

 

[GoldenBud]

It did. I used the specific versions mentioned by GoldenBud. I’ve currently got a Splinter V1 on it now running beautifully on GoldenBud’s settings for the iHeat a couple posts above. Haven’t tried any other as those are the only two without a permanent home.

the 510 side that screws into the mod, it looks fine? no need to rescrew it with some hex screwdriver? weird, it works for me both in Rim-C and Evic dual... hmm..

 

[GoldenBud]

@BakedDiogenes i know it may sounds funny, but, how did you install the Arctic fox exactly ? i have got a new rim-C and can't install the eleaf fw on it! it won't let me do it, NFE also doesn't see it, tried 3 different cables

 

[GoldenBud]

damnit it seems like this rim-c is fucked up dunno, nothing works , 2 different PCs

 

[CanikUser19]

damnit it seems like this rim-c is fucked up dunno, nothing works , 2 different PCs

Going back to factory software, then reinstalling Artic Fox has worked for me when having issues with Eleaf mods. Maybe give that a try? I did not have any issues installing AF on my Rim C’s, I’ll delete on 1 mod and reinstall and see if it installs properly.

 

[GoldenBud]

Going back to factory software, then reinstalling Artic Fox has worked for me when having issues with Eleaf mods. Maybe give that a try? I did not have any issues installing AF on my Rim C’s, I’ll delete on 1 mod and reinstall and see if it installs properly.

Update Eleaf 1.20
Device Name : None Device

it doesn't recognize it

is there Update Eleaf 1.10 or so? if you may know

 

[CanikUser19]

Update Eleaf 1.20
Device Name : None Device

it doesn't recognize it

is there Update Eleaf 1.10 or so? if you may know

I have Eleaf firmware 1.09. Was just able to flash Artic Fox on Rim C using Artic Fox build 211009 @GoldenBud. After the flash of Artic Fox, firmware now shows as 1.10 on main NToolbox -Updater screen.

 

[GoldenBud]

I have Eleaf firmware 1.09

which updater of eleaf u got? "Eleaf Update 1.20" ? in your PC

 

[CanikUser19]

which updater of eleaf u got? "Eleaf Update 1.20" ? in your PC

When I go to Eleaf downloads page the only Rim C update I see is 1.08. Out the box, my Rim C had 1.09 on it, and now shows 1.10 after flashing Artic Fox to the mod.

Just flashed original firmware back to the mod and it now shows Eleaf firmware 1.08.

 

[GoldenBud]

When I go to Eleaf downloads page the only Rim C update I see is 1.08. Out the box, my Rim C had 1.09 on it, and now shows 1.10 after flashing Artic Fox to the mod.

Just flashed original firmware back to the mod and it now shows Eleaf firmware 1.08.

i checked, my fw is 1.12, maybe that's why it's not recognized, here?

NFE can't recognize it either

 

[CanikUser19]

i checked, my fw is 1.12, maybe that's why it's not recognized, here?

NFE can't recognize it either

Don’t use the Eleaf updater, use the NFE Updater. Go directly to the Eleaf page, Support, Download and save the software update that is provided for Rim C. Then use the same NFE updater that you use for Artic Fox to update the firmware on the mod. Do not use the Eleaf updater.

 

[GoldenBud]

Don’t use the Eleaf updater, use the NFE Updater. Go directly to the Eleaf page, Support, Download and save the software update that is provided for Rim C. Then use the same NFE updater that you use for Artic Fox to update the firmware on the mod. Do not use the Eleaf updater.

it doesn't recognize it with or without battery... maybe something i need to check in Device Manager or so.. but another laptop didn't work either..

 

[CanikUser19]

it doesn't recognize it with or without battery... maybe something i need to check in Device Manager or so.. but another laptop didn't work either..

Sometimes unplugging and replugging the data cable from the mod when this screen is up will force it to recognize the mod. Looks like you have tried everything I can think of though. You can DM me if you have more questions.

 

[BakedDiogenes]

So you screw the iHeat to the mod, and it doesn't recognize it? It sounds to me that you need to check that your heater and your 510 connector are screwed right.

They are. It works on a LV Paranormal mod in wattage.

the 510 side that screws into the mod, it looks fine? no need to rescrew it with some hex screwdriver? weird, it works for me both in Rim-C and Evic dual... hmm..

Seems fine to me. I’ll try tightening and loosening the Allen screw.

@BakedDiogenes i know it may sounds funny, but, how did you install the Arctic fox exactly ? i have got a new rim-C and can't install the eleaf fw on it! it won't let me do it, NFE also doesn't see it, tried 3 different cables

I may have skipped flashing the eleaf firmware, but I downloaded the specific versions of NFE and Arctic Fox you mentioned and had no trouble flashing AF onto the mod. I set a profile on my laptop (.32 ohms, 360f, TCR 290) and it saved on the mod, but it won’t register the iHeat (No Atomizer error).

 

[Oil420FL]

I’m on the waiting list for my first log vape from Alan and am wondering which one to choose. Is the temp control on the iHeat 510 significantly better than the desktop HI with digital voltage control?

(For medical reasons i try to vape dry herb below 390 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m familiar with Arctic Fox and have a couple of supported box mods from when I was dabbing. I also have a 200 watt Dovpo Odin as an alternative.)

 

[Shit Snacks]

I’m on the waiting list for my first log vape from Alan and am wondering which one to choose. Is the temp control on the iHeat 510 significantly better than the desktop HI with digital voltage control?

(For medical reasons i try to vape dry herb below 390 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m familiar with Arctic Fox and have a couple of supported box mods from when I was dabbing. I also have a 200 watt Dovpo Odin as an alternative.)

No, technically neither one has temp control, just power control, you'll have to gauge for yourself what feels like the right temps for how you use it... It is possible to set up temp control with a 510 mod box however it is still on you to use trial and error to figure out what feel like the accurate temperature settings you are looking for... I don't think the precise temperature matters at all frankly, I prefer more analog devices in fact, they still correspond to temperatures, but especially with pure convection on demand, it is all relative really, most devices that have digital readouts are not actually accurate technically anyway... To get a precise temperature, there are a few products that can do this, I would argue even those are not necessarily so precise either though?

 

[Oil420FL]

No, technically neither one has temp control, just power control, you'll have to gauge for yourself what feels like the right temps for how you use it... It is possible to set up temp control with a 510 mod box however it is still on you to use trial and error to figure out what feel like the accurate temperature settings you are looking for... I don't think the precise temperature matters at all frankly, I prefer more analog devices in fact, they still correspond to temperatures, but especially with pure convection on demand, it is all relative really, most devices that have digital readouts are not actually accurate technically anyway... To get a precise temperature, there are a few products that can do this, I would argue even those are not necessarily so precise either though?

I’m not worried about precise, but the capacity to reliably stay under a given temp AND provide effective medication. As a health issue for me, it also relates to safety. For dry herb my Mighty and for dabs my DT V5 with Arctic Fox reliably stay within +/- 5 degrees of their setting. But a vape that continues to vary by +/- 20 degrees or more from the target won’t work for me. I’m OK with a learning curve, like using a DynaVap with an IH. And I’m assuming that I can dial in a log vape in a similar way and add the advantages of a log.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I’m not worried about precise, but the capacity to reliably stay under a given temp AND provide effective medication. As a health issue for me, it also relates to safety. For dry herb my Mighty and for dabs my DT V5 with Arctic Fox reliably stay within +/- 5 degrees of their setting. But a vape that continues to vary by +/- 20 degrees or more from the target won’t work for me. I’m OK with a learning curve, like using a DynaVap with an IH. And I’m assuming that I can dial in a log vape in a similar way and add the advantages of a log.

Yeah but they will always be capable of going higher, the way to control it is your technique, how long you hit how you pack etc, yes you can do that with a log or any pure convection vape on demand like this

 

[Oil420FL]

Yeah but they will always be capable of going higher, the way to control it is your technique, how long you hit how you pack etc, yes you can do that with a log or any pure convection vape on demand like this

So you’re saying the learning curve for the technique to hit that temp range would be no easier on an iHeat 510 than a desktop log or any other pure convection vape.

 

[Shit Snacks]

So you’re saying the learning curve for the technique to hit that temp range would be no easier on an iHeat 510 than a desktop log or any other pure convection vape.

Correct, it's not as bad as full on unregulated, but I wouldn't say it's pure temp control... Something like a Tetra P80 is a bit easier because it is already configured for you, however even that is not a perfect analogous readout depending on the specific setup and individual user... Does that make sense? The heaters are very different, you can find a way to control the iHeat for you I think, with the instant heat on demand, it is a bit easier than a heat island log at least... I don't want to use too many examples, to keep this on topic to the vape at hand, but with the DNA mod, if you can get the FC profile, it is a bit more simple setup proven reliable with the iHeat, but again still relative sound control?

 

[sickmanfraud]

If I remember back to when I put my iHeat onto my LV Paranormal 250C I had a problem with the heatsink. Once I got the iHeat onto the paranormal directly it worked 100%.

 

[GoldenBud]

If I remember back to when I put my iHeat onto my LV Paranormal 250C I had a problem with the heatsink. Once I got the iHeat onto the paranormal directly it worked 100%.

same happend to me with the tubox, heatsink sux :/

 

[XpeeN]

I’m not worried about precise, but the capacity to reliably stay under a given temp AND provide effective medication. As a health issue for me, it also relates to safety. For dry herb my Mighty and for dabs my DT V5 with Arctic Fox reliably stay within +/- 5 degrees of their setting. But a vape that continues to vary by +/- 20 degrees or more from the target won’t work for me. I’m OK with a learning curve, like using a DynaVap with an IH. And I’m assuming that I can dial in a log vape in a similar way and add the advantages of a log.

You can set TCR and PI up and make your life easier. That way, it'll stay on a specific "temp" (resistance).

 

[Reez79]

Currently waiting on the bamboo HI but I’m lookin at this 510 Iheat vape as well as I may consider getting this in the future. How is it? Is it a heavy hitter as well? How is the smell? Can 2 people share it? I don’t much bout box mods will have to learn about that.

 

[GoldenBud]

Currently waiting on the bamboo HI but I’m lookin at this 510 Iheat vape as well as I may consider getting this in the future. How is it? Is it a heavy hitter as well? How is the smell? Can 2 people share it? I don’t much bout box mods will have to learn about that.

since the iHeat heater has a lot of volume comparing to a portable vape, but it has low mass, you start your session at 32W for example but with slow draw, let's say after 2-3 seconds of preheat or even without, and after 5-6 seconds of drawing you increase the speed of the draw..

recommended, can be a heavy hitter when slow draw at 35W or more, be careful, works either TCR/Wattage