Discontinued The Grasshopper
- Thread starter midgetsanchez
- Start date
vapviking
Old & In the Way
dudes, he's photoshopped the manual to show this bogus procedure. My paper copies don't show this.Ok, you win.I hoped somebody would have those instructions somewhere.
It's a bit reassuring to me that hopper labs thought it was completely fine to submerge the grasshopper up to the air holes. The graph above means that by design, they didn't mind iso above the screen and even on the heater!! They just didn't want iso to drip inside the rest of the body and they didn't want you to use your grasshopper before it completely dried. Clearly, using you hopper before it dried up completely could be damaging to you hopper. Now I feel better about using a slightly iso damped q-tip on the screen.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
I don't think that's photoshopped.
Go here and you can see a picture of the earlier manual containing the ISO soak instructions.
http://www.vaporizerwizard.com/grasshopper-vaporizer-faq/grasshopper-cleaning-instructions/
It is no longer contained in the most current online version at Hopper's website.
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
Actually, @biohacker, interestingly enough the online manual is not the most current.
I found the post I was thinking of, and also found that the old manual is still on Hopper Labs' website:
https://www.grasshoppervape.com/information/manual/
There's a lot of interesting differences there, but still no mention of submerging the chamber in iso. For what it's worth, the SS hopper I received in June 2016 came with the newer manual.
I found the post I was thinking of, and also found that the old manual is still on Hopper Labs' website:
https://www.grasshoppervape.com/information/manual/
There's a lot of interesting differences there, but still no mention of submerging the chamber in iso. For what it's worth, the SS hopper I received in June 2016 came with the newer manual.
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vapviking
Old & In the Way
So, did Buzz Danklin photo shop it? lol!
There is more to this than I imagined, so, apologies to @WoodyWeedPecker !
My manuals are from August '16 and do not have the soak up to the eyeballs technique.
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
I guess there's at least 3 manuals. Buzz Danklin posted that image way back in March 2015.
I wonder if and when HL will start to require us to pay shipping both ways.
I wonder if and when HL will start to require us to pay shipping both ways.
I have a GH that's 2mos. old ,lightly used.Have only had to charge it 4 times, but on the 5th time the red flashing light never turned blue (over 8 hrs.charging) It works fine, goes from red to blue when in use.Has anyone had a similar problem? or is it much to do about nothing
almost there
Well-Known Member
I just emailed hopper labs, I'll let u know what they have to say regarding that warranty question when I hear back. My order is still "processing", if warranty policy changes I will have to back out of the purchase. Given how often some owners get their units serviced I don't need that kind of added expense if I wind up being one of the unlucky ones.
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Had a good laugh with the Photoshop comments!
Come on guys! I just did a simple Google image search and this pic came up from Buzz's site. Remember he had the first Hopper out there... This was the first manual out in public. Does anyone really think Buzz would Photoshop it?
I am sure they changed that out cause people always do stupid things, especially us stoners, and it would be just a matter of time before someone submerged the holes in ISO as well!
I doubt it could be harmful if you let it dry out completely but why Hopper labs take this chance? I wouldn't... But that shit backfired unfortunatelly and dirty Hoppers obviously get all kinds of trouble when gunked up.There could be a way for HL to clear this mess by giving out free cleaning containers for the body to be submerged with clear markings on how full with ISO the container should be and strict instructions to let it dry for at least 24 hours in a non-humid environment. Anyway it wouldn't be that hard to figure out if a Hopper is busted due to a short by checking the circuit board, no?
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
What would be a good idea before following this procedure, would be a silicone band around the hopper (fairly tight), to cover the intake holes--that would prevent accidentally getting ISO in there.Had a good laugh with the Photoshop comments!
Come on guys! I just did a simple Google image search and this pic came up from Buzz's site. Remember he had the first Hopper out there... This was the first manual out in public. Does anyone really think Buzz would Photoshop it?
I am sure they changed that out cause people always do stupid things, especially us stoners, and it would be just a matter of time before someone submerged the holes in ISO as well!
There could be a way for HL to clear this mess by giving out free cleaning containers for the body to be submerged with clear markings on how full with ISO the container should be and strict instructions to let it dry for at least 24 hours in a non-humid environment. Anyway it wouldn't be that hard to figure out if a Hopper is busted due to a short by checking the circuit board, no?
So ... HL should include the following w/ the hoppers:
1. Screen removal tool for the oven
2. Silicone band and instructions for cleaning the hopper oven
3. Screen removal and insertion tool for the front-end (maybe optional)
They could even charge extra for these, but #2 should at least be included ... and if #2 can be performed perhaps #1 is not required? #3 isn't really required I don't think, but for those of us that are obsessive about cleaning we want one!
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Sounded like a good idea initially but on second thought the ISO would just enter that area from inside the heater holes, the band wouldn't do much...
Agree on the rest!
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
One line I found weird from the manual is under Safety & Use: "Product for current smokers only"
I guess I broke that rule as it had been almost a year since the last time I smoked before I got my Grasshopper.
I guess I broke that rule as it had been almost a year since the last time I smoked before I got my Grasshopper.
Receptor
Well-Known Member
So I figure to do a few maintenance things with my SS in good working order....
Twistng, clicking, turning temp dial and used compressed air to dis-lodge any debris...non detected.
Put end parts back......temp dial frozen??.. unless I back of a bit on threaded batt connection??
Upon further inspection with a 30x magnifier i noticed there are AIR openings under the clip
and one AIR slot on the flat body part next to the threads on the back end.
The mysteries continuous......air buoyancy thru-out the entire body
CANNABIS....Cluster Headache....ReNew...Mission. Good to-Go!!!
Twistng, clicking, turning temp dial and used compressed air to dis-lodge any debris...non detected.
Put end parts back......temp dial frozen??.. unless I back of a bit on threaded batt connection??
Upon further inspection with a 30x magnifier i noticed there are AIR openings under the clip
and one AIR slot on the flat body part next to the threads on the back end.
The mysteries continuous......air buoyancy thru-out the entire body
CANNABIS....Cluster Headache....ReNew...Mission. Good to-Go!!!
Hjalmark
Oldest boy alive
So this is what the Xtar vc2 looks like in voltage in a fully charged hopper battery
it slows down the charging at 4.1 and then creeps to 4.21 for the last minute before the charge flashes and says "full"
Not tried the other charges or am I in anyway an expert, just got a multimeter so I can advance my diy hobbies, thought it was interesting to show this charger max voltage
Also I am running out of stuff to measure with it
Sooooo wanna measure the pass through current of the hopper body but don't dare to because yeah ... Killing my hopper
I went ahead and practiced on the electric mains in the house instead
Safer bet
Not tried the other charges or am I in anyway an expert, just got a multimeter so I can advance my diy hobbies, thought it was interesting to show this charger max voltage
Also I am running out of stuff to measure with it
Sooooo wanna measure the pass through current of the hopper body but don't dare to because yeah ... Killing my hopper
I went ahead and practiced on the electric mains in the house instead
Safer bet
almost there
Well-Known Member
So got a pretty quick reply about that question from Caroline
"We cover the shipping costs to return the repaired Hopper to you. This may change in the future, but for now, the customer sends it to us and we send it back. You can view the warranty policy in the owner’s manual on GHVApe.com under the INFORMATION tab."
Guess I'm still in, now please let it come soon
The main reason I got my vaporizer was because I could disassemble it for cleaning. I'm happy to have followed the thread. It seems you just need a set of tweezers that aren't sharp enough to scratch up the screen in order to remove the screen for cleaning and you're all set in being able to pretty much clean the whole unit out.
Am I getting that right?
Am I getting that right?
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
There are 2 screens (or maybe 3?).
One in the mouthpiece that can screw in and out. The tweezers help with that.
The other screen is at the bottom of the oven. That's what was being discussed recently when somebody (I forget who, please forgive me) figured out how to remove it and found gunk to clean underneath. But for now, that level of cleaning doesn't seem to be recommended by ghl.
So if you're talking about cleaning the mouthpiece, you're right. Personally, I don't disassemble it; I just soak the whole thing. But others do and have found more gunk.
I just wanted to make sure you were talking about the mouthpiece.
Gramin
Well-Known Member
AV are perfectly happy with me keeping the B/E from the faulty Hopper so I'm going to be sending them the faulty body and new but extremely poor QC'ed B/E. I'm happy to have a perfectly good GH even if I had to pay for two at this stage lol.
Will be personally pushing it this weekend and doing a full stress test before I send the broken parts back.
I think a desktop vape option has really caught my eye today too:
I love the Hopper but actually watching your herb be vaped through glass is just too damn cool.
EDIT: Damn if I had of known I could get a Ti kit for $365 AUD (paid $310AUD for 2nd GH) I'd have been allll over that!
I see a few people from this thread are already in the know with the Ti
Will be personally pushing it this weekend and doing a full stress test before I send the broken parts back.
I think a desktop vape option has really caught my eye today too:
I love the Hopper but actually watching your herb be vaped through glass is just too damn cool.
EDIT: Damn if I had of known I could get a Ti kit for $365 AUD (paid $310AUD for 2nd GH) I'd have been allll over that!
I see a few people from this thread are already in the know with the Ti
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voodoo_vape
Vapour RebeL
Maybe indeed, but then where this debris would go if you're not supposed to open the screen? The holes there are really tiny so that it gets dissolved through them. Either case, I don't see the reason that opening that screen could lead to a void warranty.. as long as the oven compartment stays undamaged, you should be fine. The screen loosening could probably give you away, but that's only if you overdo it pulling it in and out.
Including some tool as well so that their product is not damaged. The state of the bottom of the oven, in less than 3-month usage, should be an extra reason that they provide lifetime warranty and not the screen removal i'd say..
My initial claims that my hopper has become stronger now, were confirmed by my friend as well that he turned round to me and he thought the same without me telling him something.. I wonder how this beast would work with a properly cleaned up body, from top to bottom..
Moreover, I got a reply from HL last night telling me to send them my hopper back to be serviced.. Shall I tell'em that it's back to normal after a thorough clean? I'm not willing to send my unit back now that it seems to be fine.. I'll tell them to wait few days and then close the request..
ps: nice piece of history that manual @natural farmer I thought that it was your bro's at the beginning..
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
IMO such actions as disassembling parts (here screens of mp and herb chamber) which are not part of provided operation instructions or safety instructions (see under 'safety - damage') will not be covered by warranty.
If they can see that you have disassembled the screens they can refuse a case of warranty if they want.
If they can see that you have disassembled the screens they can refuse a case of warranty if they want.
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MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
wow my quotes have become sizeable.. here goes
But quality medical fine nose tweezers should be made of a harder alloy. Plus the scratches weren't deep.
But I still think a tool would have been appropriate to include, or have available, for the front end and the chamber screen. (I've heard a lot of people bought tweezers specifically for screen removal, I mean, come on!) you snooze you lo$e HL
So, with that in mind, they actually have done remarkably well
)
I think SneakyPete, or someone, did a youtube video walkthrough of it around the same time, it is mostly the same in essence. (apart from the already called out differences).
I feel like the removal of the DON'T BLOW AIR INTO IT and the SUBMERGE (WHILE ON) were risk assessments where they weighed up it was better to just accept shipments and pay some postage in order to prevent total catastrophic destruction.
I'm thinking if isopropyl dissolves inevitable resin and flows and sticks/dries to circuitry, that is how bad things happen.
If this happens on the upper end of the circuitry, the sensors, they could die (thermal shcok/short circuit), but they can be easily replaced in-house.
PCBs are worth many thousand percent more than sensors.
Even though they now produce (pick/place) in house, this was a monumental achievement. Like fuck budgeting that in.
We're a bunch of strange creatures
Fully assemble a unit with the ring on, don't turn the device on just suck.
You'll probably get airflow, how much is the question.
You can see it with the naked eye, the SS ring under the clip has a raised edge below the clip, the threads below would really limit airflow though.
Cool, you got me to get my battery-less dead blue unit to check it, and now it's not dead (semi dead still, these faults are clearly computational, I have some theories).
Firstly, I chucked a fresh battery in it, and it worked 'properly' (long heat up, indicates imminent not workingness).
Then I was like, fuck yeah, it's heating up I want to blast some air through this thing to try and suck kief/whatever out of the heater. (it just started straight to blue yet again ><)
I did get a number of good drags on it before it just died again.
And it was very evident that the heater was pulsing (but with prolonged gaps between, which is abnormal and is why it's not heating properly).
The heater is driven via pulse width modulation (PWM) like a CPU fan.
CPU fans are 4-pin, not 3-pin like ordinary computer case fans.
The extra pin gives additional control over the fan speed and software can monitor and control the RPM.
A standard rail pushes 12V to fans, PWM fans pulse this energy in a sequence which does not start or stop the fan.
Instead of having full power and a fixed speed, PWM can respond to temp sensors and actively control the fan RPM for audible reasons.
The hopper is the same, but instead of spinning something, it is heating it.
However, the constant power rail is a variable DC battery, and the voltage is controlled via a potentiometer in the back-end.
The software/computer that runs the hopper is pretty advanced, I'm no electrical engineer, but I would imagine one of them would be impressed with the board designs the hopper has.
They do a lot with tiny space and crazy thermal conditions.
However, it appears that with the backlash of more bowls desired per battery, firmware gets tweaked and I believe it's these tweaks that can cause the typical issues.
For example, the 'double-click to cloud city' might be a direct response to an initial (higher capacity battery) charge being detected and selectively is not utilised to its full extent, to save additional power for subsequent hits.
This caps the power during the power sequence, and the hopper performs badly.
Re-initiate the sequence and all of a sudden "cloud city".
If the firmware runs out of sync with the hardware, congratulations. Red then dead, cop lights, straight to blue.
They all mean something to HL. And it's probably fairly straight forward to fix it once enough cases have been observed and the problem understood.
My hopperversary is tomorrow, and well, what a year it has been! (only one or two weeks sans hopper, and very few days off otherwise!)
But there are things I'd like different.
The chamber should be insulated, doubled walled glass would do, aerogel though (it's 2017 right?)
Hmm that's pretty much it
Where can I get one for a dollarydoo a day? With an AU plug?
Hell yeah, half as much AUD as a sublimator!
There's actually an australian company who makes an enail based herb vape..
I think it was from OZEnail
I'll try and seek it out, last time I saw it it was in development.
EDIT: yep she a loong post
Must be time to crank some 'erb
It is a pretty damn nice screen.
But quality medical fine nose tweezers should be made of a harder alloy. Plus the scratches weren't deep.
But I still think a tool would have been appropriate to include, or have available, for the front end and the chamber screen. (I've heard a lot of people bought tweezers specifically for screen removal, I mean, come on!) you snooze you lo$e HL
That makes some sense, I've had great luck with PBW, IPA and pipecleaners with the threads FWIW
Well, these 3 years represent basically all the testing the device has had!
So, with that in mind, they actually have done remarkably well
Nah, the submerging was from the initial manual (the manual existed before the vape I think
)I think SneakyPete, or someone, did a youtube video walkthrough of it around the same time, it is mostly the same in essence. (apart from the already called out differences).
I feel like the removal of the DON'T BLOW AIR INTO IT and the SUBMERGE (WHILE ON) were risk assessments where they weighed up it was better to just accept shipments and pay some postage in order to prevent total catastrophic destruction.
I'm thinking if isopropyl dissolves inevitable resin and flows and sticks/dries to circuitry, that is how bad things happen.
If this happens on the upper end of the circuitry, the sensors, they could die (thermal shcok/short circuit), but they can be easily replaced in-house.
PCBs are worth many thousand percent more than sensors.
Even though they now produce (pick/place) in house, this was a monumental achievement. Like fuck budgeting that in.
Bloody liability and law.
We're a bunch of strange creatures
You want to use that hole blocker to test the air gap in the clip?lol ... ok ... you're probably right! Might buy you some time for accidental splash/insertion though ...
I just cut a piece of silicone tube (1/2"), and put it on and took a picture to provide an example ... seems kinda' pointless now ...
Fully assemble a unit with the ring on, don't turn the device on just suck.
You'll probably get airflow, how much is the question.
Nice observation, totally missed this before!
You can see it with the naked eye, the SS ring under the clip has a raised edge below the clip, the threads below would really limit airflow though.
Cool, you got me to get my battery-less dead blue unit to check it, and now it's not dead (semi dead still, these faults are clearly computational, I have some theories).
Firstly, I chucked a fresh battery in it, and it worked 'properly' (long heat up, indicates imminent not workingness).
Then I was like, fuck yeah, it's heating up I want to blast some air through this thing to try and suck kief/whatever out of the heater. (it just started straight to blue yet again ><)
I did get a number of good drags on it before it just died again.
And it was very evident that the heater was pulsing (but with prolonged gaps between, which is abnormal and is why it's not heating properly).
It has a maximum draw of 45W, ie. the assembly has a max potential of 45W.
The heater is driven via pulse width modulation (PWM) like a CPU fan.
CPU fans are 4-pin, not 3-pin like ordinary computer case fans.
The extra pin gives additional control over the fan speed and software can monitor and control the RPM.
A standard rail pushes 12V to fans, PWM fans pulse this energy in a sequence which does not start or stop the fan.
Instead of having full power and a fixed speed, PWM can respond to temp sensors and actively control the fan RPM for audible reasons.
The hopper is the same, but instead of spinning something, it is heating it.
However, the constant power rail is a variable DC battery, and the voltage is controlled via a potentiometer in the back-end.
The software/computer that runs the hopper is pretty advanced, I'm no electrical engineer, but I would imagine one of them would be impressed with the board designs the hopper has.
They do a lot with tiny space and crazy thermal conditions.
However, it appears that with the backlash of more bowls desired per battery, firmware gets tweaked and I believe it's these tweaks that can cause the typical issues.
For example, the 'double-click to cloud city' might be a direct response to an initial (higher capacity battery) charge being detected and selectively is not utilised to its full extent, to save additional power for subsequent hits.
This caps the power during the power sequence, and the hopper performs badly.
Re-initiate the sequence and all of a sudden "cloud city".
If the firmware runs out of sync with the hardware, congratulations. Red then dead, cop lights, straight to blue.
They all mean something to HL. And it's probably fairly straight forward to fix it once enough cases have been observed and the problem understood.
I think you made the right decision.Guess I'm still in, now please let it come soon
My hopperversary is tomorrow, and well, what a year it has been! (only one or two weeks sans hopper, and very few days off otherwise!)
Yeah that one looks decent!
But there are things I'd like different.
The chamber should be insulated, doubled walled glass would do, aerogel though (it's 2017 right?)
Hmm that's pretty much it
Where can I get one for a dollarydoo a day? With an AU plug?
Hell yeah, half as much AUD as a sublimator!
There's actually an australian company who makes an enail based herb vape..
I think it was from OZEnail
I'll try and seek it out, last time I saw it it was in development.
Nothing better than watching someone enjoy a phat cloud, well apart from hearing them complain about being too high from it 10 mins later
EDIT: yep she a loong post
Must be time to crank some 'erb