wow my quotes have become sizeable.. here goes
The Hopper's front-end has a durable, machine etched stainless steel screen. Not only does it not need to be replaced, but this screen is also designed to withstand scratching during cleaning. Scrape the screen with a small tool or unscrew your backend and use the end of your clip to remove leftover plant material.
It is a pretty damn nice screen.
But quality medical fine nose tweezers should be made of a harder alloy. Plus the scratches weren't deep.
But I still think a tool would have been appropriate to include, or have available, for the front end and the chamber screen. (I've heard a lot of people bought tweezers specifically for screen removal, I mean, come on!) you snooze you lo$e HL
@MoltenTiger , funny but my habit recently changed to counterclockwise swirl (a la George Costanza?) when I swab mp with q-tip or trusty toothpick. I hope to swish stuff in the direction that will carry it up and out of the threads rather than drive stuff down into threads.
That makes some sense, I've had great luck with PBW, IPA and pipecleaners with the threads FWIW
Amazing that after these what, 3 years, we are now drilling down deeper on the cleanliness thing (inside Hopper Body, not just mp), as relates to functionality, serviceability, folklore, catastrophic failure and viability.
Well, these 3 years represent basically all the testing the device has had!
So, with that in mind, they actually have done remarkably well
There's a lot of interesting differences there, but still no mention of submerging the chamber in iso. For what it's worth, the SS hopper I received in June 2016 came with the newer manual.
Nah, the submerging was from the initial manual (the manual existed before the vape I think
)
I think SneakyPete, or someone, did a youtube video walkthrough of it around the same time, it is mostly the same in essence. (apart from the already called out differences).
I feel like the removal of the DON'T BLOW AIR INTO IT and the SUBMERGE (WHILE ON) were risk assessments where they weighed up it was better to just accept shipments and pay some postage in order to prevent total catastrophic destruction.
I'm thinking if isopropyl dissolves inevitable resin and flows and sticks/dries to circuitry, that is how bad things happen.
If this happens on the upper end of the circuitry, the sensors, they could die (thermal shcok/short circuit), but they can be easily replaced in-house.
PCBs are worth many thousand percent more than sensors.
Even though they now produce (pick/place) in house, this was a monumental achievement. Like fuck budgeting that in.
One line I found weird from the manual is under Safety & Use: "Product for current smokers only"
Bloody liability and law.
We're a bunch of strange creatures
lol ... ok ... you're probably right! Might buy you some time for accidental splash/insertion though ...
I just cut a piece of silicone tube (1/2"), and put it on and took a picture to provide an example ... seems kinda' pointless now ...
...
You want to use that hole blocker to test the air gap in the clip?
Fully assemble a unit with the ring on, don't turn the device on just suck.
You'll probably get airflow, how much is the question.
So I figure to do a few maintenance things with my SS in good working order....
Twistng, clicking, turning temp dial and used compressed air to dis-lodge any debris...non detected.
Put end parts back......temp dial frozen??.. unless I back of a bit on threaded batt connection??
Upon further inspection with a 30x magnifier i noticed there are AIR openings under the clip
and one AIR slot on the flat body part next to the threads on the back end.
The mysteries continuous......air buoyancy thru-out the entire body
CANNABIS....Cluster Headache....ReNew...Mission. Good to-Go!!!
Nice observation, totally missed this before!
You can see it with the naked eye, the SS ring under the clip has a raised edge below the clip, the threads below would really limit airflow though.
Cool, you got me to get my battery-less dead blue unit to check it, and now it's not dead (semi dead still, these faults are clearly computational, I have some theories).
Firstly, I chucked a fresh battery in it, and it worked 'properly' (long heat up, indicates imminent not workingness).
Then I was like, fuck yeah, it's heating up I want to blast some air through this thing to try and suck kief/whatever out of the heater. (it just started straight to blue yet again ><)
I did get a number of good drags on it before it just died again.
And it was very evident that the heater was pulsing (but with prolonged gaps between, which is abnormal and is why it's not heating properly).
45W / 3.6V = 12.5A
45W / 4.2V = 10.7A
... in theory ...
It has a maximum draw of 45W, ie. the assembly has a max potential of 45W.
The heater is driven via pulse width modulation (PWM) like a CPU fan.
CPU fans are 4-pin, not 3-pin like ordinary computer case fans.
The extra pin gives additional control over the fan speed and software can monitor and control the RPM.
A standard rail pushes 12V to fans, PWM fans pulse this energy in a sequence which does not start or stop the fan.
Instead of having full power and a fixed speed, PWM can respond to temp sensors and actively control the fan RPM for audible reasons.
The hopper is the same, but instead of spinning something, it is heating it.
However, the constant power rail is a variable DC battery, and the voltage is controlled via a potentiometer in the back-end.
The software/computer that runs the hopper is pretty advanced, I'm no electrical engineer, but I would imagine one of them would be impressed with the board designs the hopper has.
They do a lot with tiny space and crazy thermal conditions.
However, it appears that with the backlash of more bowls desired per battery, firmware gets tweaked and I believe it's these tweaks that can cause the typical issues.
For example, the 'double-click to cloud city' might be a direct response to an initial (higher capacity battery) charge being detected and selectively is not utilised to its full extent, to save additional power for subsequent hits.
This caps the power during the power sequence, and the hopper performs badly.
Re-initiate the sequence and all of a sudden "cloud city".
If the firmware runs out of sync with the hardware, congratulations. Red then dead, cop lights, straight to blue.
They all mean something to HL. And it's probably fairly straight forward to fix it once enough cases have been observed and the problem understood.
Guess I'm still in, now please let it come soon
I think you made the right decision.
My hopperversary is tomorrow, and well, what a year it has been! (only one or two weeks sans hopper, and very few days off otherwise!)
I think a desktop vape option has really caught my eye today too:
Yeah that one looks decent!
But there are things I'd like different.
The chamber should be insulated, doubled walled glass would do, aerogel though (it's 2017 right?)
Hmm that's pretty much it
Where can I get one for a dollarydoo a day? With an AU plug?
Hell yeah, half as much AUD as a sublimator!
There's actually an australian company who makes an enail based herb vape..
I think it was from OZEnail
I'll try and seek it out, last time I saw it it was in development.
My initial claims that my hopper has become stronger now, were confirmed by my friend as well that he turned round to me and he thought the same without me telling him something
Nothing better than watching someone enjoy a phat cloud, well apart from hearing them complain about being too high from it 10 mins later
EDIT: yep she a loong post
Must be time to crank some 'erb
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
To be frank, I didn't even know they changed the manual, I thought body dipping was still mentioned in it like I remembered! 
I have felt that "nudge" from The Defenders as I've read the discussions here lately. Personally, I think they are better off staying quiet and crash the next GHL meeting with a print-out of our shit here!
