Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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Hammahead

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vaposhop.com is based in Holland and they carry the combo set with the short and the long mouthpiece as well as the Easy Flow cooling unit. They are legit, I bought tons of stuff there. Why not vapefied though?
 
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Radiohead

Member
vaposhop.com is based in Holland and they carry the combo set with the short and the long mouthpiece as well as the Easy Flow cooling unit. They are legit, I bought tons of stuff there. Why not vapefied though?

40$ shipping for 50$ kit
 
Radiohead,

Hammahead

Well-Known Member
Wow, I just saw it... I ordered my SplinterZ there and had free UPS shipping, but up to 30 pounds for EU shipments is way steep, agreed.
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Follow the link above from Summer to get your rxg3d dialed in. Most folks use sur_myevic or the Tubo myevic firmware. The rxg3d also runs Arctic Fox which has a good looking interface but doesn't support cruise mode, which people often like.

One good tip is to hold off on the firmware rabbit hole at first and just set it to between 30 to 40W and go to town. Ultimately it's worth it to refine your config but several of us have made the initial mistake of trying to get all the settings optimized before we even use our Splinter and it's just not necessary. You'll get more even abv and fewer hot spots down the road. It's rewarding to start by just putting the Splinter on your mod, setting the wattage, and letting it rip.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)

I would stick to the stock firmware and straight wattage, just set the fire shut off time from 10 to 15sec by pressing up and fire at same time to access secret menu (I think*) If you didn't get a Splinter Z you are in the wrong thread though btw

No Tubo FW on G3D @bossman ... Unfortunately only in our dreams
 
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jbm

Not a Vapman “beta tester”
I would stick to the stock firmware and straight wattage, just set the fire shut off time from 10 to 15sec by pressing up and fire at same time to access secret menu (I think*)
I just got one of these and that doesn’t seem to work. When the mod is off it brings up a TCR adjustment menu.
 
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el noodlé

New Member
I just got hold of a Splinter Z. It seems to work (I'm baked & the AVB looks pretty dark compared to the input), but my mods are both reading it as 0.4 Ohm, where I've seen around online it usually reads around 0.25 Ohm. I seemed to have to run it at around 55-60W to get decent vapour production and it was still reasonably pleasant even up at 70-75W. Conversely I got nothing at all at 35W-45W. Is there something wrong with my Splinter?

(Also hi, nice forum, howdy, pleasantries etc :D:ko:)
 
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jbm

Not a Vapman “beta tester”
I just got hold of a Splinter Z. It seems to work (I'm baked & the AVB looks pretty dark compared to the input), but my mods are both reading it as 0.4 Ohm, where I've seen around online it usually reads around 0.25 Ohm. I seemed to have to run it at around 55-60W to get decent vapour production and it was still reasonably pleasant even up at 70-75W. Conversely I got nothing at all at 35W-45W. Is there something wrong with my Splinter?
Nope, my Z runs about 0.41. Bigger heater.
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I just got one of these and that doesn’t seem to work. When the mod is off it brings up a TCR adjustment menu.

Ah well I know the mod should be on when you do it, someone posted here and I'm sure it is easy to Google if what I suggested didn't work. Can't remember what I did originally, but thought that is what was posted here is working...

I just got hold of a Splinter Z. It seems to work (I'm baked & the AVB looks pretty dark compared to the input), but my mods are both reading it as 0.4 Ohm, where I've seen around online it usually reads around 0.25 Ohm. I seemed to have to run it at around 55-60W to get decent vapour production and it was still reasonably pleasant even up at 70-75W. Conversely I got nothing at all at 35W-45W. Is there something wrong with my Splinter?

~.25 is for Splinter V2, yours seems right for a Z. But what mod are you using? Because your high wattage needed is definitely atypical (and potentially even outside of warranty for regular useage)
 
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el noodlé

New Member
~.25 is for Splinter V2, yours seems right for a Z. But what mod are you using? Because your high wattage needed is definitely atypical (and potentially even outside of warranty for regular useage)

I'm using an old Kanger Dripbox 160, which is a 2x18650 squonk mod. I made sure it was totally dry & nothing in the squonk bottle. It couldn't be the hollow pin causing an issue could it? It runs a solid pin ecig tank just fine, so I figured it made no difference.

I double-checked the resistance by sticking it on an old Kanger KBox mini, but I haven't fired it on that mod.
 
el noodlé,

ltrat

Well-Known Member
Just got my Splinter Z and stoked! However... My Splinter V2 has the glass (not mouthpiece) attached (glued) to the wood. The Z's glass wiggles around? Is that normal? Thanks!
 
ltrat,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Just got my Splinter Z and stoked! However... My Splinter V2 has the glass (not mouthpiece) attached (glued) to the wood. The Z's glass wiggles around? Is that normal? Thanks!
Doesn't sound right to me. I own both of those and neither has play between the glass and the body.
 
bossman,

jbm

Not a Vapman “beta tester”
Cool, that's a relief. Do you find you need to run higher wattages than the little instruction leaflet says? It reckons 35-45, but that seems useless in reality.
I pretty much stay at about 35W or so. I get decent clouds and really good flavor.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I'm using an old Kanger Dripbox 160, which is a 2x18650 squonk mod. I made sure it was totally dry & nothing in the squonk bottle. It couldn't be the hollow pin causing an issue could it? It runs a solid pin ecig tank just fine, so I figured it made no difference.

I double-checked the resistance by sticking it on an old Kanger KBox mini, but I haven't fired it on that mod.

Okay yeah, I don't really know what squank is but I've seen it around, it does work as you see, but maybe not the best for this application... If you are able to try a different mod that is not like that, you may be able to get the more proper performance with lower wattage. As you see most of us max out our Z at 45w
 
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Summer

Long Island, NY
Cool, that's a relief. Do you find you need to run higher wattages than the little instruction leaflet says? It reckons 35-45, but that seems useless in reality.

Most likely your mod. To me anything over 60W would be excessive. :o Even 50 is high. Are you using it through water?

@ltrat, contact the seller for warranty work as it seems it needs a regluing.
 
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Summer,

MasterChief

Well-Known Member
I just got hold of a Splinter Z. It seems to work (I'm baked & the AVB looks pretty dark compared to the input), but my mods are both reading it as 0.4 Ohm, where I've seen around online it usually reads around 0.25 Ohm. I seemed to have to run it at around 55-60W to get decent vapour production and it was still reasonably pleasant even up at 70-75W. Conversely I got nothing at all at 35W-45W. Is there something wrong with my Splinter?

(Also hi, nice forum, howdy, pleasantries etc :D:ko:)

My custom Z is turns on with .43. I don’t lock it in wattage mode and used it at 35-40 watts. Up to 45 watts through water. I mostly use in TC mode right now. My TCR settings are TCR 165, 45w, and .43 locked.
 
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