vaposhop.com is based in Holland and they carry the combo set with the short and the long mouthpiece as well as the Easy Flow cooling unit. They are legit, I bought tons of stuff there. Why not vapefied though?
Follow the link above from Summer to get your rxg3d dialed in. Most folks use sur_myevic or the Tubo myevic firmware. The rxg3d also runs Arctic Fox which has a good looking interface but doesn't support cruise mode, which people often like.
I just got one of these and that doesn’t seem to work. When the mod is off it brings up a TCR adjustment menu.I would stick to the stock firmware and straight wattage, just set the fire shut off time from 10 to 15sec by pressing up and fire at same time to access secret menu (I think*)
Nope, my Z runs about 0.41. Bigger heater.I just got hold of a Splinter Z. It seems to work (I'm baked & the AVB looks pretty dark compared to the input), but my mods are both reading it as 0.4 Ohm, where I've seen around online it usually reads around 0.25 Ohm. I seemed to have to run it at around 55-60W to get decent vapour production and it was still reasonably pleasant even up at 70-75W. Conversely I got nothing at all at 35W-45W. Is there something wrong with my Splinter?
Nope, my Z runs about 0.41. Bigger heater.
I just got one of these and that doesn’t seem to work. When the mod is off it brings up a TCR adjustment menu.
I just got hold of a Splinter Z. It seems to work (I'm baked & the AVB looks pretty dark compared to the input), but my mods are both reading it as 0.4 Ohm, where I've seen around online it usually reads around 0.25 Ohm. I seemed to have to run it at around 55-60W to get decent vapour production and it was still reasonably pleasant even up at 70-75W. Conversely I got nothing at all at 35W-45W. Is there something wrong with my Splinter?
~.25 is for Splinter V2, yours seems right for a Z. But what mod are you using? Because your high wattage needed is definitely atypical (and potentially even outside of warranty for regular useage)
Doesn't sound right to me. I own both of those and neither has play between the glass and the body.Just got my Splinter Z and stoked! However... My Splinter V2 has the glass (not mouthpiece) attached (glued) to the wood. The Z's glass wiggles around? Is that normal? Thanks!
I pretty much stay at about 35W or so. I get decent clouds and really good flavor.Cool, that's a relief. Do you find you need to run higher wattages than the little instruction leaflet says? It reckons 35-45, but that seems useless in reality.
Cool, that's a relief. Do you find you need to run higher wattages than the little instruction leaflet says? It reckons 35-45, but that seems useless in reality.
I'm using an old Kanger Dripbox 160, which is a 2x18650 squonk mod. I made sure it was totally dry & nothing in the squonk bottle. It couldn't be the hollow pin causing an issue could it? It runs a solid pin ecig tank just fine, so I figured it made no difference.
I double-checked the resistance by sticking it on an old Kanger KBox mini, but I haven't fired it on that mod.
Cool, that's a relief. Do you find you need to run higher wattages than the little instruction leaflet says? It reckons 35-45, but that seems useless in reality.
I just got hold of a Splinter Z. It seems to work (I'm baked & the AVB looks pretty dark compared to the input), but my mods are both reading it as 0.4 Ohm, where I've seen around online it usually reads around 0.25 Ohm. I seemed to have to run it at around 55-60W to get decent vapour production and it was still reasonably pleasant even up at 70-75W. Conversely I got nothing at all at 35W-45W. Is there something wrong with my Splinter?
(Also hi, nice forum, howdy, pleasantries etc )
Mysurevic@MasterChief, what firmware & mod are these TC values used for?