Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

[Hammahead]

it just might not be the right option for many others.

Absolutely right, but those customers wouldn't ever consider using that service in the first place.

 

[pghjd]

Absolutely right, but those customers wouldn't ever consider using that service in the first place.

Then why sell the mod un uprgraded at all? Theres no benifit to the customers who don't understand firmware to have a choice for a lesser firmware that they are going to need to change anyway for $24 more than what the mod costs from established ecig companies who DO offer safety info. Element vape for example has a few paragraphs of basic battery safety info under every product. This is all off track though. Lets try to keep the discussion about the splinter z.

 

[Summer]

FYI:
Here's the 18650 battery safety thread:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/18650-battery-safety.18527/

Here's a Resource on how to set up tubomyevic on the Splinter:

http://fuckcombustion.com/resources/splinter-tubomyevic-quick-start-guide.27/

 

[rosedale]

Then why sell the mod un uprgraded at all? Theres no benifit to the customers who don't understand firmware to have a choice for a lesser firmware that they are going to need to change anyway for $24 more than what the mod costs from established ecig companies who DO offer safety info. Element vape for example has a few paragraphs of basic battery safety info under every product. This is all off track though. Lets try to keep the discussion about the splinter z.

Why would you be combative with the vendors who support this forum? You are correct that this is not the least expensive place to purchase this particular mod. However, it is a convenience not only to have the software pre-loaded but also to be able to purchase everything that you need to use your splinter as soon as you open the box. We should be supporting the forum vendors instead of criticizing their business practices.

 

[Summer]

To be honest I don't think the device is worth an extra $27 for a free firmware update unless you just refuse to learn about tech

Not to you, but maybe to someone else it is. You can only speak for yourself, not for anyone else. The mods are in demand, otherwise, many wouldn't be OOS.

and do it yourself in a few minutes

Took me longer than 20 min. just to read & understand the mod instructions & just as long to peruse through the menus. I personally find the forums for upgrading to myevic & arctic fix as confusing as all heck, and I'm someone who use to edit the Win 95 & Win 7 registries.

 

[Stu]

This is all off track though. Lets try to keep the discussion about the splinter z.

You took the words out of my mouth. This thread is about the Splinter Z, not about where to get the cheapest box mod, or what services are worth $ and to whom. If anyone would like to further discuss that topic they are free to make a thread about it or take it to PMs.

Thanks.

 

[Monk Debate]

What wattage do you all use on the Z when running through water?

 

[Shit Snacks]

What wattage do you all use on the Z when running through water?

Usually 45, sometimes 42 or 43, gotta draw quick though and can scorch if too long, gotta know your style, technique. Oh I also am using an inline honeycomb rig that has a super smooth pull, how you pack and the screens will affect things

 

[Summer]

What wattage do you all use on the Z when running through water?

36 - 38

 

[Hammahead]

Then why sell the mod un uprgraded at all?

They have answererd this already

an opportunity for one stop shop which could also be important to some.

I really don't see the problem at all, many shops in all sort of trades have this kind of offer, and - as you pointed out yourself - there's plenty of alternatives for anyone

 

[cybrguy]

It's always nice when an expert comes in here to straighten us all out. After all, what the fuck do we know?

Anyway, I have been thinking that maybe I need a backup for my Z. Are there still any custom US Zs left? I suppose I could get a Z1, but with all my joints 22mm I would have to get new accessories...

Nevermind, I went to VGoodiez and I see there are still some available. I assume if there is custom in the name that is the longer joint.

 

[little maggie]

It's always nice when an expert comes in here to straighten us all out. After all, what the fuck do we know?

Anyway, I have been thinking that maybe I need a backup for my Z. Are there still any custom US Zs left? I suppose I could get a Z1, but with all my joints 22mm I would have to get new accessories...

Nevermind, I went to VGoodiez and I see there are still some available. I assume if there is custom in the name that is the longer joint.

I'm sure this has been answered already but I don't know what you mean by 22mm joints. I'm pretty sure my Z is one of the original ones. If you're talking about stems all mine are 18mm and work fine in my Z and other splinters. If not the stems, what do you mean by 22mm joints.

 

[cybrguy]

Yes, I am talking about the joints. All the earlier RBT devices (Zion, Milaana and early Splinters and Splinter Zs) relied on a US standard 18/22mm joint (as opposed to the ISO standard 18/26mm). Starting with later Splinters Ryan switched to an 18/18mm non-standard joint, presumably to give a little extra room for the heater and insulator. All the Chinese manufactured Splinters (V1 and V2) and SplinterZs are 18/18mm. The only RBT vapes still using the 22mm joints are the "Custom" ones still hand made by RBT in the US, and that will end when Ryan runs out of his last order of 22mm joints. After that all the joints will be 18/18mm as far as I understand.
I honestly don't know about the joint size in any of the later Milaanas so I can't speak to that. My early Milaana is 18/22.

(As an aside 19/22 and 18/22 are actually the same size. The first dimension is actually 18.8mm and is often just called 19)

 

[Monk Debate]

Yes, I am talking about the joints. All the earlier RBT devices (Zion, Milaana and early Splinters and Splinter Zs) relied on a US standard 18/22mm joint (as opposed to the ISO standard 18/26mm). Starting with later Splinters Ryan switched to an 18/18mm non-standard joint, presumably to give a little extra room for the heater and insulator. All the Chinese manufactured Splinters (V1 and V2) and SplinterZs are 18/18mm. The only RBT vapes still using the 22mm joints are the "Custom" ones still hand made by RBT in the US, and that will end when Ryan runs out of his last order of 22mm joints. After that all the joints will be 18/18mm as far as I understand.
I honestly don't know about the joint size in any of the later Milaanas so I can't speak to that. My early Milaana is 18/22.

(As an aside 19/22 and 18/22 are actually the same size. The first dimension is actually 18.8mm and is often just called 19)

Are you sure about that? The vgoodiez descriptions for the Z V1 and V2 say “The Splinter Z accepts 19mm stems with joints at a depth of 22mm or 19mm.“ They also say that the included glass stems in the box for the Z are 19/22.

The descriptions on the regular Splinter V1 and V2 say “Accepts 19mm joint depth. Some have reported 22mm working but no guarantee.”

 

[cybrguy]

It was my understanding that nothing made for RBT overseas is using anything but the 18mm joint, but VGoodiez is who should know as they are selling the product. I personally would not use a longer joint than is recommended.

 

[Monk Debate]

So far I’m only using

It was my understanding that nothing made for RBT overseas is using anything but the 18mm joint, but VGoodiez is who should know as they are selling the product. I personally would not use a longer joint than is recommended.

So far I’ve only used 18/18 stems with mine, just wanted to be accurate is all.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah I think maybe the site needs to be updated, all V whatevers from China have 19/19 so use others at your own risk!

 

[little maggie]

Yeah I think maybe the site needs to be updated, all V whatevers from China have 19/19 so use others at your own risk!

I know this is a z thread but I have a v2 (not a Z) and the 18mm fits fine. Is that because the 18mm stems are a bit smaller?

 

[Summer]

@little maggie, take a ruler & measure the entire length of the joint; the whole white frosted area. You should even be able to measure it with a cheap dollar store ruler. It'll either measure 19 or 23mm in length.

@VGOODIEZ, please provide a definitive answer so we don't keep going around in circles needlessly. Start with cybrguy 9 posts back. (Sorry, can't do direct post links on a cell, can only link to page.)

Thanks.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I know this is a z thread but I have a v2 (not a Z) and the 18mm fits fine. Is that because the 18mm stems are a bit smaller?

It's not necessarily about fit, the best way is to take the stem that came with your V2 and compare that joint length to anything else before you use it to be safest. If it's longer do not use it lest you risk breaking glass though it may seem to fit (broke my first V2 this way).

If it is a V1 / V2 / ZV1 / ZV2 then it has 19/19 glass and you should check any non rbt official glass as I described above. Here is an example of varying 19mm joints (aka 18mm or 18.8 which is the width, the other number after the / refers to the varying length of the joint)

Far left is a custom rbt xl8r-d (bent defect), then 420edc wpa, custom 14mm wpa (was a cut custom iso joint, thought it was 22 but guess its 19), then green rbt old cut color stem, then new rbt 19-19 wpa, then custom blue bent stem (this is what cracked my first V2, supposedly 22mm), then rbt custom xl8r Jr, then the standard Jr cooler, and finally a tubo stem (iso standard aka 26mm long)

So theres a lot of variation, not to mention slight tapers (custom stems tend to have clean cut, evenly flat, which is pretty nice) and all the screen options which sit differently stem to stem...

 

[madhockeydad]

There are a range of users. We all started out as new comers to this. I just got my first ecig mod about a month ago. I’m learning more and more a little bit at a time. I think it’s cool the lower the bar to entry and the support options out there that make it easier whether it’s a site like this or the services VGoodiez provide. Each of these sources provides help and assistance to a niche of users.

We need all of these different resources in order for more and more people to enjoy a tool like the Splinter.

 

[VGOODIEZ]

@little maggie, take a ruler & measure the entire length of the joint; the whole white frosted area. You should even be able to measure it with a cheap dollar store ruler. It'll either measure 19 or 23mm in length.

@VGOODIEZ, please provide a definitive answer so we don't keep going around in circles needlessly. Start with cybrguy 9 posts back. (Sorry, can't do direct post links on a cell, can only link to page.)

Thanks.

Ryan indicated to me that all Splinter Z would accept 22mm depth joints. There is zero question on the custom ones and I went on to test a few of my standard Z's as well and found no issue. That is how I have my listings set up. Only the regular Splinter has the 19mm limitation from what I know and see myself. Some have also stated their standard splinter would accept a 22mm joint. Mine are the same way but it's not officially supported.

One important note on this is that I don't use basket screens, I use flat screens. So that may be the difference. If you add a basket to any of these you could have issues. And let's not forget these are still put together by hand so there could be minor variation in the build process.

Regardless of the size the joint should not be pressing down on the bottom of the screen and if you have to force it down to lock then the joint is too long and you are risking damage to the splinter.

 

[Alex3oe]

One important note on this is that I don't use basket screens, I use flat screens. So that may be the difference. If you add a basket to any of these you could have issues. And let's not forget these are still put together by hand so there could be minor variation in the build process.

Regardless of the size the joint should not be pressing down on the bottom of the screen and if you have to force it down to lock then the joint is too long and you are risking damage to the splinter.

I'm facing this with my Splinter V2. With a basket screen, the original stem doesn't lock and will fall out. No basket screen and the stem easily locks. These black V2 stems are a little bit longer than the ones came with the High Flow Splinter, which seem to be have cut, showed by the sharp edges. Measuring depth, the V2 goes down about 2mm deeper than the HF. Funnily enough, the (longer) V2 stem does lock inside the (not so depth) HF, even with a basket screen.

So it's the internal diameter of the glass what differs between the HF and the V2. You can see it on the picture, HF on the left, V2 on the right, both with the black V2 stem inserted.

 

[cybrguy]

OK, then this in red is in error...

All the Chinese manufactured Splinters (V1 and V2) and SplinterZs are 18/18mm. The only RBT vapes still using the 22mm joints are the "Custom" ones still hand made by RBT in the US, and that will end when Ryan runs out of his last order of 22mm joints. After that all the joints will be 18/18mm as far as I understand.

I thought all the joints coming from China would be the same so my bad. It makes sense that the Z could be 22mm as the Z has much more room and doesn't need to be restricted.
So all the Splinter Zs are 22mm deep. I guess that means I needn't rush to get my backup Z for fear the customs will run out...

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah I have a heck of a time getting a screen in the wpa, rimmed basket pokes out too much, old baskets don't stay put like they did in my Jr cooler, it is a shame there is so much variance with the glass and how it in turn affects the screens you can use effectively... Luckily I have a lot of stem/screen options, but if I only had the wpa I bought with my V2 which didn't fit well with the included screens, I might be pretty frustrated? It would be great if the standard stems from China could be filed down at the tips so they are flat without any taper just like the RBT customs, which fit flat steel and mesh rimmed screens perfectly secure n flush, but I know that is more labor intensive... Oh glass, you offer such wonderful purity, but with such varying compromises!