TinyMight / TM 2

[mpaulc]

Did you open up the top and clean off the contact points...and add a shim under the battery strip? Your issue seems like the contact problem and can be solved easily if so. You just need a #15 star bit to loosen up the main screw.

Thanks for the response, Lab pong. I tried, and will try again. But my efforts at repair were terrible. Frankly, I’m not a repair person, and suffer from some gnarly hand issues that make fiddling difficult. At least I ended up w a bonus blue o-ring that I couldn’t get back in.

Having never HEARD of a #15 star bit (and not having received those instructions from TM headquarters), I tried using an Allen wrench to open the screw on the bottom. No luck. Even stripped it a tad, which is really a bummer.

If adjusting a TM is part of owning a TM, requiring a special not-included tool is tough stuff.

anyhow, how do you get the top off? Do you need to remove the screw first?

And add a shim... of what? Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[LabPong]

Thanks for the response, Lab pong. I tried, and will try again. But my efforts at repair were terrible. Frankly, I’m not a repair person, and suffer from some gnarly hand issues that make fiddling difficult. At least I ended up w a bonus blue o-ring that I couldn’t get back in.

Having never HEARD of a #15 star bit (and not having received those instructions from TM headquarters), I tried using an Allen wrench to open the screw on the bottom. No luck. Even stripped it a tad, which is really a bummer.

If adjusting a TM is part of owning a TM, requiring a special not-included tool is tough stuff.

anyhow, how do you get the top off? Do you need to remove the screw first?

And add a shim... of what? Thanks for your thoughts.

It's not very hard to do. You just need a T15 star bit to do it.

Just loosen up the screw enough so the top metal piece comes off. On the top of the wood under that...you will see a 1/4 wide metal strip that comes from the bottom of the battery tube to the top...and folds over the wood top section. That part of the metal strip needs to contact the metal top piece better. So just use anything to put a small .05mm to 1mm raise under the strip .....so when you put the top back on and tighten it up...it will make full contact.

The o-ring you can not get back in......might be a problem.....how big is it? A thin one like the CU's....? Or a thick red one?

 

[mpaulc]

It's not very hard to do. You just need a T15 star bit to do it.

Just loosen up the screw enough so the top metal piece comes off. On the top of the wood under that...you will see a 1/4 wide metal strip that comes from the bottom of the battery tube to the top...and folds over the wood top section. That part of the metal strip needs to contact the metal top piece better. So just use anything to put a small .05mm to 1mm raise under the strip .....so when you put the top back on and tighten it up...it will make full contact.

The o-ring you can not get back in......might be a problem.....how big is it? A thin one like the CU's....? Or a thick red one?

Thanks so much, LabPong. Once this winter storm melts, I'll head to town in search of a star bit. Ive never encountered a star bit before, which is why I was trying to use an allen wrench, which fit in quite snugly. Hopefully I haven't messed up the screw too much. As for the o-ring. It's the blue one that sits on top of the metal cylinder tube. TM still seems to be working w.o it.

 

[LabPong]

If the o-ring your talking about...is the wide skinny one that fits on top of the glass tube in the stem tube area.....that one is 100% necessary to be in place. It seals off the stem and intake path. If it is not there....you will be at half power to extract if that. You probably have to turn the heat up to get good vapor?

The old o-rings they used normally were the super soft clear ones. It would be good if they replace that with a slightly stiffer o-ring.

 

[tokenknifeguy]

On the battery comparison test, I've got the Molicel p26a 2600mAh 35A, VTC5d 2800 mAh 25A, VTC5a 2600 mAh 25A, VTC6 3000 mAh 15A, and the Samsung 30Q 3000 mAh 15a.

I started with the VTC5a, VTC6, and the 30q. I was using those in pairs for my TetraX. I did all kinds of tests (mostly because I lost count, lol) but from my armchair qb tests, I really found not much of a difference. Maybe for an unregulated device it would be more noticeable but for the TM, Tetras/tubos, etc I don't think they are too different from one another. So I would either go for the cheaper battery(ones I mentioned or other types by these makers and couple others) of those you can find, or go with the larger capacity. Since I use some of these batteries as pairs every time, I really did go over kill on the A rating. Like I use 2 of the P26a at the same time for my TetraX, which really only need like a 10-12A battery when in pairs.

Those batteries I mentioned I have for the tetrax and TM, so I don't think I've used all of those batteries in the TM, but I have used all of those in my Tetrax. I have 2 batteries married that I only use in pairs so they go for the Tetrax, and then I have batteries that I use only in singles and they are for the TM. I also never noticed much of a difference in the batteries when used for the TM either.

However I think the biggest thing then to look for, is the longevity of the batteries, which I have no clue. They still seem to be fairly good but I've only had them for about a year, so too early to tell.

 

[Djsleepy]

If the o-ring your talking about...is the wide skinny one that fits on top of the glass tube in the stem tube area.....that one is 100% necessary to be in place. It seals off the stem and intake path. If it is not there....you will be at half power to extract if that. You probably have to turn the heat up to get good vapor?

This is 100% true! I have found there are four things that affect performance, first is the seal under.the.lid between glass and lid.has to be perfect and.comes loose.with inserting and removal of stems ; second the metal strip need a shimmy of aluminum foil in order to make a better.contact with lid , third is the battery contact.can sometimes be pushed.down with overtightening and needs to be.pryed up and final!y the buildup of residue on metal strip and lid , and on bottom contacts that touch bottom lid. I just cleaned my contacts for first time -super easy !

I don't have issues.with my.hands as others do, other than they are large and awkward but if you go slowly its very.simple to do all of the above even if you are.not a tinkerer. After disassembling a few.times it takes me no more than five.minutes to take.apart do whatever and I'm off to the races with a.TM that.hits like that first.hit everytime!

 

[cybrguy]

I'll head to town in search of a star bit. Ive never encountered a star bit before, which is why I was trying to use an allen wrench

A Star bit is also called a Torx bit, so you may see it with that name instead.

Torx (pronounced /tɔːrks/), developed in 1967 by Camcar Textron, is a trademarked type of screw drive characterized by a 6-point star-shaped pattern. A popular generic name for the drive is star, as in star screwdriver or star bits. ... Torx screws are also becoming increasingly popular in construction industries.

 

[RustyOldNail]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0023QTESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HANDY TO HAVE!

The Titan Tools 148-Piece Master Bit Set contains the following tools:

70pcs. - 25mm Bits:
• (12) Slot: 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.6, 7, 8mm
• (8) Phillips: #00, #0, #1, #2, #2, #2, #3, #4
• (8) Pozi: #00, #0, #1, #2, #2, #2, #3, #4
• (12) Hex: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 7, 8mm
• (10) Hex: 1/16”, 5/64”, 3/32”, 7/64”, 1/8”, 9/64”, 5/32”, 3/16”, 7/32”, 1/4"
• (13) TORX: T5, T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, T45
• (3) Spline: M5, M6, M8
• (4) Robertson: 0, 1, 2, 3

49pcs. – 25 Security Bits:
• (3) Torq: 6, 8, 10
• (4) Spanner: 4, 6, 8, 10
• (4) Tri Wing: 1, 2, 3, 4
• (9) Tamper 5STAR: TX10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 40, 45, 50
• (14) Tamper TORX: T5H, T6H, T7H, T8H, T9H, T10H, T15H, T20H, T25H, T27H, T30H, T35H, T40H, T45H
• (6) Tamper Hex: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6
• (6) Tamper Hex: 5/64”, 3/32”, 7/64”, 1/8”, 9/64”, 5/32”
• (3) 25mm Clutch Bits: 1, 2, 3

13pcs. – 50mm Bits:
• (2) Pozi: #2, #3
• (3) Phillips: #1, #2, #3
• (7) TORX: T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40
• (1) Robertson: 2

13pcs. – 75mm Bits:
• (5) Phillips: #1, #2, #2, #2, #3
• (5) Robertson: 1, 2, 2, 2, 3
• (2) Hex: 3/16”, 1/4"
• (1) Slot: 1/4"

 

[cybrguy]

I recently picked up this one. $10 was all I was willing to throw at it...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5THF9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your link is a much better deal if you might need some of the other stuff, but Torx is all I was really missing that I cared about...

 

[trevytrev]

So, I have now also noticed that I don't seem to be getting the hits I was before, I had put it down to using the Sneaky Pete adapter whilst I was waiting on my new WPA but that is now here and it's still not getting as hot as it was. I used to start at about 6.5 and work up to 8 and that would result in the AVB being almost burnt on top but the rest nicely browned. Now I am having to start at 8 and work up to 10 and not getting any burning. But I am not sure if that is actually a good thing, as the AVB seems to be much more evenly vaped but I just don't feel like I'm getting that big lung full!

 

[angular ocelot]

i have been rotating my tinymight. for the last two weeks i have been using just the cooling unit and wpa, before that wpa through water, before that through dry glass, before that dry glass with cooling unit. any time it gets a bit boring i use it a different way til i get a bit fed up with that routine and i change it again. never have it below ten though. still loving it.

eta, i dropped it last night after taking a big draw then stuffing it up my jumper to keep my belly warm, which is something else it is good at. i forgot about it and got up to go to the toilet and it dropped out after three paces. fortunately no damage.

 

[Kaptan]

So, I have now also noticed that I don't seem to be getting the hits I was before, I had put it down to using the Sneaky Pete adapter whilst I was waiting on my new WPA but that is now here and it's still not getting as hot as it was. I used to start at about 6.5 and work up to 8 and that would result in the AVB being almost burnt on top but the rest nicely browned. Now I am having to start at 8 and work up to 10 and not getting any burning. But I am not sure if that is actually a good thing, as the AVB seems to be much more evenly vaped but I just don't feel like I'm getting that big lung full!

Most likely cause of this problem is the metal band that makes contact with the metal lid is not making good contact. You will have to follow the instructions In this thread to slightly remove the torx screw at the bottom and then either bend slightly the band so it makes good contact with the top metal lid or shim with a piece of foil. I slightly bent mine months ago and haven’t had the issue re occurred.

 

[mpaulc]

If the o-ring your talking about...is the wide skinny one that fits on top of the glass tube in the stem tube area.....that one is 100% necessary to be in place. It seals off the stem and intake path. If it is not there....you will be at half power to extract if that. You probably have to turn the heat up to get good vapor?

The old o-rings they used normally were the super soft clear ones. It would be good if they replace that with a slightly stiffer o-ring.

Hey guys. Thanks so much for your thoughts. The o-ring I'm talking about is blue, wide, and thin.
- pull out the glass tube that holds the CU
- unscrew the metal part that fits around the above glass tube
- below that sits the large RED o-ring
- below that sits the metal cylinder. This blue o-ring appeared to be sitting on top of that metal cylinder.

I'll try harder to get it back in. I haven't actually noticed any significant decrease in performance w/o it. but I kept it just in case of course!

 

[HighVapeEnthusiast]

Hey guys. Thanks so much for your thoughts. The o-ring I'm talking about is blue, wide, and thin.
- pull out the glass tube that holds the CU
- unscrew the metal part that fits around the above glass tube
- below that sits the large RED o-ring
- below that sits the metal cylinder. This blue o-ring appeared to be sitting on top of that metal cylinder.

I'll try harder to get it back in. I haven't actually noticed any significant decrease in performance w/o it. but I kept it just in case of course!

Oh, no, I think the blue O-Ring belongs between the Glas tube and the top plate of the TM!
So you have to unscrew the bottom plate, remove the top plate and place the O-ring on the glastube around the Alu-Tube...

 

[trevytrev]

Most likely cause of this problem is the metal band that makes contact with the metal lid is not making good contact. You will have to follow the instructions In this thread to slightly remove the torx screw at the bottom and then either bend slightly the band so it makes good contact with the top metal lid or shim with a piece of foil. I slightly bent mine months ago and haven’t had the issue re occurred.

Thanks, I'm going to have a look at it later!

 

[mpaulc]

Oh, no, I think the blue O-Ring belongs between the Glas tube and the top plate of the TM!
So you have to unscrew the bottom plate, remove the top plate and place the O-ring on the glastube around the Alu-Tube...

Hmmmm... perhaps I'm misunderstanding -- I am a little stoned. If the "bottom plate" is the metal bottom of the unit, well, I've yet to successfully remove that. How did this blue ring escape?! Anyhow, when this snow melts, I'm gonna run and pick up a star bit, and then we'll see what's what, you fucking tinymight oh baby I'm sorry I yelled at you

 

[Kaptan]

Hmmmm... perhaps I'm misunderstanding -- I am a little stoned. If the "bottom plate" is the metal bottom of the unit, well, I've yet to successfully remove that. How did this blue ring escape?! Anyhow, when this snow melts, I'm gonna run and pick up a star bit, and then we'll see what's what, you fucking tinymight oh baby I'm sorry I yelled at you

You may have accidentally spun the metal cylinder, which can cause that O-ring to come out. Don’t worry, it’s not too hard to replace as stated a couple posts up.

 

[Vaporific]

Hmmmm... perhaps I'm misunderstanding -- I am a little stoned. If the "bottom plate" is the metal bottom of the unit, well, I've yet to successfully remove that. How did this blue ring escape?! Anyhow, when this snow melts, I'm gonna run and pick up a star bit, and then we'll see what's what, you fucking tinymight oh baby I'm sorry I yelled at you

Check page 187 for teardown pics. It’s my bible though I’ve only disassembled mine twice in 9 months. There’s a large slender oring atop the glass cylinder which sits behind the metal cylinder. Make sure that oring is properly seated; this is key for proper draw air flow. Not sure about a blue oring; I have a red one to hold the stem but I’m sure they come in different colors (I like red though). I have a couple of spares that I’ve never used and still using the original stem holder oring. And definitely go with a Torx-15 bit and not a hex bit (different animals). Good luck!

 

[dzoinp]

It is possible to replace this o-ring without removing the top plate. I already did it when he jumped from the site when blowing the TM with my 300bar compressor

Hey @BrianTL, my FW7 arrived and got stuck at customs

 

[Cheebsy]

@mpaulc don't be confused about the colour of the o ring, we've heard of a few colours so far but yours is the first blue I remember hearing about.

 

[trevytrev]

Well if you need any proof whatsoever how important that top o ring is, I just took mine out and simply just reseated it, screwed the top back on and now my TM is back to full steam again! I could immediately feel how much tighter it was to push the stem in. So glad I don't have to take it apart!

 

[Siebter]

Hmmmm... could it be that this o ring is the actual key to understand these incidents of sudden low performance? Having to fold that metal strip to achieve better contact always seemed such a weird design flaw to me. But that o ring is small, flimsy, easy to be dislocated. Not that I ever had a problem with one or the other, but I also never disassembled my TM.

 

[dzoinp]

I could immediately feel how much tighter it was to push the stem in.

Sorry but this is not related to the inner glass tube o-ring ....

 

[Siebter]

I think I got mixed up – which o ring are we talking about? I thought we were referring to the one on the picture you posted, @dzoinp.

 

[mpaulc]

Hey everybody. With the aid of my $.83 star drive bit, my TM opened right up. Placed a tiny shim (piece of card stock) beneath the metal hanger. Reassembled, and typing an hour later now, I'm mortified to admit that I now can't recall how the o-ring-in-question figured in. Sheesh. I believe it ended up on top of the inner glass tube, the one which eventually houses the metal cylinder. Whatever the case, all is working fine.