RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
This is one argument to use SERIAL NUMBERS on the device. Keeping track of any hardware revisions.
Yeah, I wondered about the wisdom of just rolling changes into production. Wouldn’t it make determining problems with returned devices more difficult? Or maybe not if they’re just replacing RMA’d units anyway…This is one argument to use SERIAL NUMBERS on the device. Keeping track of any hardware revisions.
Haven't ordered but I found this on alibaba https://m.alibaba.com/product/60535836279/Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Bowl-Dome-Shape.htmlAnyone have a link for basket screens for the TM ,not the ones from the official site. I seem to have list my last ones in a festive haze
I think they're just replacing the entire PCB over tracking like that because Even with revisions as long as it fits in the space of the bottom plate it shouldn't be a major issue to pull out an old one, install a new, and ship it back off.Yeah, I wondered about the wisdom of just rolling changes into production. Wouldn’t it make determining problems with returned devices more difficult? Or maybe not if they’re just replacing RMA’d units anyway…
I’d still like to see a company in this space ship a device with user-upgradable firmware.I think they're just replacing the entire PCB over tracking like that because Even with revisions as long as it fits in the space of the bottom plate it shouldn't be a major issue to pull out an old one, install a new, and ship it back off.
Tubo as part of the Tetra P80 allows this I believe. I haven’t tried it with my P80 however. I also think TM should serialize the units, both on the bottom plate - either inside or outside, doesn’t matter which - and on the PCB.I’d still like to see a company in this space ship a device with user-upgradable firmware.
I was thinking more along the lines of things like the dotLeaf, or yes, the TM. Box mods do have upgradeable firmware, but that's not specific to Tubo, for example Arctic Fox or Red Panda.Tubo as part of the Tetra P80 allows this I believe.
Very cool & great idea and effort! One small suggestion would be to color-code the orings and also to consistently refer to them. E.g. large oring vs upper oring, which mean the same thing in your document I think. At work, which has been 30 years in software development, I’m a stickler for semantics and jargon and when same things are referred to differently, confusion can set in. Not sure why someone didn’t do this sooner, so KUDOS! This should be in the TM HOF and Best Of thread.Thanks to @Cheebsy, @Vaporific, @Abysmal Vapor for recent replies, @JoeKickass for 'page 187', and everyone else for words and pictures on the internet.
I have crunched my understanding and knowledge and offer this graphic as answer to that which I asked.
If the are mistakes, point them out. I can edit and re-post an accurate diagram.
(It was composed in excel and powerpoint, saved as a jpg)
View attachment 15502
Pass on that one I am simply not sure of the difference between early and late editions.Ok thanks, so it just didn't flash green on start up? I thought the first ones couldn't be calibrated either... I guess there are probably more incremental changes than we are aware of tbh.
... One small suggestion would be to color-code the orings and also to consistently refer to them. E.g. large oring vs upper oring, which mean the same thing in your document I think. ...
Plus “Unknowns” is misspelled.Thank you
I am making the changes now, and making hyphenation consistent.
Pass on that one I am simply not sure of the difference between early and late editions.
Mine is an early one from Vapefiend in May 2020 and I recently had to calibrate. From memory it was able to cycle through red/green/orange/white/purple/turquiose during the calibration.
I had broken the glass sleeve after dropping it a few times. Stopped using it for a few months and eventually got around to ordering new sleeves from TM.If you had to calibrate recently I assume it was from a performance drop? If so, calibrating may get you the same results for now, but ultimately you should find the source of the issue or your calibration fix may not work long term.
Can the lower glass sleeve be removed / replaced without removing the heater?
tinymightvape.com said:Sometimes people have had this particular piece broken on their units for different reasons. It can be replaced easily by opening the back end big screw with a Torx T20 screwdriver, some 10mm is enough to get the top panel come off. Then just carefully take out the damaged glass lining and drop the new piece there and screw the top panel back on tightly.
Yes, apparently it can be replaced without hassle. The sleeve itself is available →as a spare part and replacing it seems reasonably easy to do:
Try without the capsule, most who have tried them say they don't like it.my tinymight arrived just in time to be my christmas present to myself, i didnt really get it yesterday but today, with a full dosing capsule and a dynavap fat mouthpiece put inside the short glass stem to stop my lips getting burn after consecutive hits, i think i love it now
Try without the capsule, most who have tried them say they don't like it.
whats wrong with capsules? i like that no herb fall sout into the device and that i can fill them as much or as little as i want without worrying about having enough in the stem to keep structural integrityboo Capsules
Capsules suit some but not others.whats wrong with capsules? i like that no herb fall sout into the device and that i can fill them as much or as little as i want without worrying about having enough in the stem to keep structural integrity