'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer

Duck

Active Member
you all continue to write here?
What about the new forum?
In the new forum I am shown an insecure connection.
I was sick and was prevented by a new project for some time.

you made beautiful things!
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Maker
New forum is 'read only' now, as the admin of original FC here returned in time to renew the domain lease and updated the forum software. So they could close down our 'life boat' and we all can continue the voyage here at our old haunts 😁😎
 
blokenoname,
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GI

Member
Hi, i can't find a thinwall 11mmOD tube for my builds, i try to reduce in and out diameter of an 12mmOD 10mmID but it's time consuming and not so good at the end, i would like 0,5 wall or 0,3 as @blokenoname one's in this site http://www.menzel-modellbau.de/ there's an 11x0,3 but it's only in german and ask me 21 euro more shipping cost, i continue to search maybe in my area and online but, if someone has suggestion are welcome, Thanks and top diy thread :tup:
 

GI

Member
After my post i realized that 21 euro of shipping cost are ok, i can build 20 heater with one meter of 11OD and 0,3 wall from menzel, they answer me in english...no problem....and i order 2 meters :-)
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
The ZK-J5X is the cheapest one I've found but the resolution isn't the best as it only goes up and down in .05V steps and has button controls
There's some specs here

The DPS3005 goes up and down in smaller increments, has a knob to do that, some memory slots, and some colour display options for 3 or 4 times the money
Specs:

I have both of those and power them with a 12V 5A dc supply and a switchable laptop supply that goes up to 24V for my projeccts

The XYS3580 looked good on paper but it has a fan on the back that kicks in at 1A .... if it's connected :)
It runs OK without the fan upto about 2A but really needs a better heatsink or a silent fan
Specs

And here are some 4A devices I've not tested but are on my radar ....
zk-4kx

xy-sep4

sk35
 

f2j

Chaque jour est une chance
Beautifull ! The stand is awesome too !
I recently bought a small lathe and can't wait to make my own vaporizer.
For now, I chose to go with halogen heating (maybe it's not the easiest but I was not sure about soldering iron heating elements' harmlessness), so I bought 24V 50W G4 halogen bulbs. I think Musa has 35 W so it should be more than enough.
I also bought glass beads to experiment (either in the heating tube, or in the mouthpiece/next to the load).
Now i'm thinking about the heating tube. I was thinking at something close to what you did. How did you attach the screens at the top of the tube ?
Also the 2 joints we can see n the tube, are they threaded ? if not, how did you join the two pieces ? Also, how do you manage temperatures with your DIY ? a simple dimmer ?
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Maker
Beautifull ! The stand is awesome too !
I recently bought a small lathe and can't wait to make my own vaporizer.
For now, I chose to go with halogen heating (maybe it's not the easiest but I was not sure about soldering iron heating elements' harmlessness), so I bought 24V 50W G4 halogen bulbs. I think Musa has 35 W so it should be more than enough.
I also bought glass beads to experiment (either in the heating tube, or in the mouthpiece/next to the load).
Now i'm thinking about the heating tube. I was thinking at something close to what you did. How did you attach the screens at the top of the tube ?
Also the 2 joints we can see n the tube, are they threaded ? if not, how did you join the two pieces ? Also, how do you manage temperatures with your DIY ? a simple dimmer ?
Thanks 😊

Nah, the heating tube is all just one piece. The two 'joints' you see there, are actually just indentations/cuts made by the tube cutter, not cutting all the way through. The one at the top serves to hold the clip ring (serving as a stop for the slide over GonG adapters) and the indentation also forms a slight rim on the inside of the tube, serving as a stop for the 8mm stainless steel slide in tips. The screen is a basket screen, flat side up, which gets pushed up against that indentation/rim from the bottom part of the tube.
The indentation at the bottom part of the tube serves as a guide line for the two horizontal cuts/slits I make there with a Dremel tool, which then form the air intake.

The tube gets mechanically fastened to the washer at its base, by choosing a washer with a slightly smaller hole, than the outer diameter of the (3/8") tube. Bottom part of the tube then gets machined down a bit over a length of maybe 5mm (simply using a big steel file there), till it fits through the smaller hole in the washer and the protruding section of the tube is simply hammered flat then against the washer, so that the washer can't slip off or slide up the tube then.
Note that the slits for the air intake have to be cut after fastening the tube to the washer, as otherwise you'll inevitably hammer the slits shut again, when hammering the protruding part of the tube flat. Here's a bigger pic of the heater cover.
(Cudos to @Alan again, for the fine method of fastening washer to tube).



For a regular Log type vape, a soldering iron's heating element is much too big and overpowered and there is certainly no need to play around with 110/220v AC power here, which can be quite dangerous in case of a short. All my Logs work with 12v DC power!
There are nice small ceramic, steel clad heater cartridges (20mm x 6mm) for use in 3D printers, that fit the bill perfectly. I usually use a 24v/30w cartridge or alternatively a 24v/40w, that'll give you 7,5w or 10w respectively, when powered with just 12v (= 1/4 of the nominal wattage output at 24v).

https://reprapworld.de/products/ext...es/ceramic_heater_cartridge_24_v_30_w_100_cm/

For temp control a simple DC dimmer can be used, yes. Or more comfortably a step-down/buck converter, like @Hippie has already listed above.

 
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brainiac

Well-Known Member
Really nice work on that cherry Misty :nod: :tup:. And the maple base cap adds attractive contrast. Great job :rockon:.

Also, that's a typically generous and detailed description of the build that you've provided for f2j. That's hallmark of this thread :clap:

@f2j Good luck with the project. Keep us up to date on your progress.

:peace:
 

f2j

Chaque jour est une chance
Awesome, thank you a lot @blokenoname for the time taken to share all this information with me and all of us !
Do you think that 24V 50W is too much for a halogen heater ? I ordered the ZK-J5X module to be able to lower the voltage around 12V.

@brainiac, sure, I'll post pictures or videos when I am working on this project (I have to many of them at the same time =D). I still have to figure out what i use for the mouthpiece (i'd like to use glass), and what diameter i'll need for the SS heat tube (if I want my "wand" to enter the heating tube, or on the contrary, if I want the heat tube to enter the tip of the wand).

Thanks again all for sharing thoughs and experiments in here !
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Maker
Awesome, thank you a lot @blokenoname for the time taken to share all this information with me and all of us !
Do you think that 24V 50W is too much for a halogen heater ? I ordered the ZK-J5X module to be able to lower the voltage around 12V.
Oh, we discuss Halo powered Logs from page 35 onwards (and probably at several other places earlier) in this thread. Just flip back💡😉.

When choosing your bulb, it depends foremost on the inner diameter and material of the heating tube, you want to use. That determines how much air can pass the heater and so the wattage output needed, to heat up the load.
Also, there are fitting 12v versions for the bulbs (I only use the 24v cartridge heaters, because their available 12v versions are much too powerful: a 12v/40w cartridge for instance, would deliver 40w with 12v applied, which would burn down the poor Log. So I use the 24v/40w cartidge, because that delivers only 10w with 12v applied).
Not so with halogen bulbs! There you can get fitting 12v versions.

My Halo Misty Log uses a stainless steel tube with an inner Diameter (ID) of 10mm. Outer diameter (OD) is 11mm. It uses a 12v/10w Osram Halostar Starlite bulb with an OD of 9,5mm and a G4 socket. With the bulb located about 10mm below the debris screen, this provides ample power for even vaping concentrates.
Alan uses a 7/16" ss OD heating tube with an ID of 3/8" for his halo Version of the Square HI and also a 12v/10w bulb:


For a wider diameter heating tube, like the glass heater cover of the MUSA (ID ~13mm), you'll need a more powerful bulb, as it allows a larger air volume to pass through and the glass is less conducive, than steel. I think, MUSA is using a 12v/30w bulb right now in the 2.0 version. The 30w bulb also has a wider OD itself, about 12mm, IIRC.
 
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brainiac

Well-Known Member
That's a very impressive little collection of logs.
I'm particularly impressed with the way that you've allowed the natural shape of the wood
to guide your build decisions - it's what I aim for too.

Are they all halogen units? What methods did you use for drilling and shaping the wood?
And did you go with the buck converter or the dimmer?
 

GI

Member
That's a very impressive little collection of logs.
I'm particularly impressed with the way that you've allowed the natural shape of the wood
to guide your build decisions - it's what I aim for too.

Are they all halogen units? What methods did you use for drilling and shaping the wood?
And did you go with the buck converter or the dimmer?
Thanks,
The wood is laurel from a tree in my garden, for the build, where possible use the portion i like, these were old and little damaged by insect and breaks, i would like to find more pattern interest in local tree, i live on the hills, i really like the rustic way.
Are all halogen without a dimmer, i have the one came with vapbong that i purcased recently, but they seems better with more 11 volt than 12, so i need to buy some or maybe a way to adjust the distance from tha bulb in a analogic way...
I use a drillpress abd forsterner bits and very little work possible on the wood.
Many thing to do but it's a very pleasure build to try and modify, don't need so much things and money.
 

f2j

Chaque jour est une chance
I tried to play with the few glass pieces I had here and the 24V 50W bulb (powered with a lab power supply), but couldn't manage to create something working with what I had.
So in the meantime, I started designing a SS heating tube (that I would have machined by someone, i know it's not really DIY at that point, but it can be pretty cool). I want it to be easily removable (at least the top parts) for maintenance/cleaning purposes hence the threadings.

It's not complete yet (it misses a final part with a second meshscreen that will also be the stop for the tip of the wand you'll insert in the heating tube).

Here is an exploded view of this WIP.
 
f2j,
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