'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer

[Duck]

I am a bit amazed.

Very little happens with a 10 W lamp at 12 V.
At the moment he is running with the 20 W 64425 at 8.7V.
To slow down the first hot train, I slowly put the vape on fully.
He also runs out of power below 8.5 V too quickly.
It is not much better with the vapecap than with the d 13mm chamber with 0.15 - 0.2 g.

How much endurance do your Misty Logs have?



20W 8,7V





Left 10W 12V right 20W 8.7V









The inner tube is 11 / 0.5mm.
The Osram 64425 is given as D 10mm, but has only D 8.72mm.
So there is 0.65 mm of air around the lamp.
The 64418 10W is specified with D 9.5 mm but has D 8.59 mm.
If the construction runs with an 11 / 0.3 mm tube and a 10 W lamp.
So there is 0.9 mm of air around the lamp.
Should the 0.2 mm more wall thickness make up worlds?


here are the measurement results.

 

[blokenoname]

It indeed does
I can work with relatively low powered heaters in the Misty, due to it's extremely lightweight core design. The more mass/weight your core has, the larger it's heat capacity, i.e. it's ability to absorb and store heat, which means your heater has to work harder, to sustain ideal vaping temps.

My standard halo heater cover, is the simple 11mm * 0,3mm tube of 4,5cm length with a 20mm M8 washer for a base. This thing weighs practically nothing. The washer at the base is heavier than the tube itself
The 10w bulb about 10mm away from the debris screen, it'll cook your herb to an even coffee brown with about ~10,7-11v applied, churning out about 8-8,5w.

Same 10w bulb set into Alan's core (of the Square HI Log above), also about 10mm away from the screen, needs the full 12v and 10w applied, to deliver the same coffee brown result. But then his 7/16" heater cover has a wall of 0,75mm thickness and the cover is more than 7cm long and add to that the two long ss screws, fastening the core to the wood and at the same time, holding the base section of the body in place. So, his cover is thicker walled steel and nearly twice as long, as the Misty's cover and so robs more heat from the equation, that is no longer available for properly heating the load. As a result, you've to crank the voltage up.

Your heater cover is segmented now, consisting of two or three tubes combined and as a result has also more weight and thermal mass. Seems, you're lacking just 1/2 a watt there, between meager and satisfying results, as the 20w bulb at 8,7v should turn out about 10,5w
So... if the cover suits you, simply use the more powerful 20w bulb.

 

[blokenoname]

Another bunch of revamped Mistys
The walnut unit on top got the original 20ohm resistor from @Alan 's Square HI now, sitting within my standard 9mm OD ss heater cover. Vapes perfectly fine at a straight 12v from the wall now.




Also made a new, more durable dd stem for vaping my baccy from a hard plastic ciggie holder, as wooden tubes do not take too kindly to the PG/VG fumes, my baccy is treated with

 

[Duck]

@blo
Thank you! very interesting how it affects the material thickness. I will build the 11/3 mm version to see the comparison live.
Here is the performance test before fine tuning. what do you all mean? I have nothing to compare. But he presses like a Herborizer Ti when everything fits.

 

[blokenoname]

Morning .

@Mikroweed Duck That looks terrific

As it happened, I was curious and reworked what remained of the Square HI's 3/8" ss roasting tube into a heater cover, like Alan, Dave and the other US Log makers are using (had already cut two ss tips from the tube before)
The tubing is 0.7mm thick and massive, compared to my 0.3mm heater covers and a bit harder to work but has the advantage, that it is actually thick enough to properly machine it's base down for a proper fit with an M8 washer .
The unit already has the more powerful 10w cartridge, to compensate for more conduction heat loss.

 

[blokenoname]

Some new roasting tubes

 

[blokenoname]

Very lightweight, resistor powered Misty
Just an older experiment, I finally completed.

The maple body is just a hollow tube, while the 9mm * 0.5mm heater cover is screwed to a cork base, that got inserted 2/3 deep into the tube, like in Alan's Bamboo HI.

Also was finally able, to properly cut and fasten a bottom cap for the Misty (band sander to the aid). It's held in place by a piece of cork and a silicone ring.

The heater is the classic Ohmite 25J20RE, giving you a nice coffee brown roast with the ss tips at 12v/6.8w

 

[Duck]

very beautiful! with the wooden lid it looks better, right ..

 

[Duck]

not entirely off topic
the grandpa amu is awesome

 

[blokenoname]

very beautiful! with the wooden lid it looks better, right ..

Well... technically, it's a HI/Heat Island Log copy now, with the body design, resistor heater and the bottom cap
But of course, it still lacks the artistic beauty that is inherent in the Master JedHI's work. Just look at this HI beauty, he made from black wood and pink ivory

 

[Duck]

I can probably remedy this, mrin bed from paduk is the largest customer of clean tropical wood in Germany. his sister tribe became limeted editon steinway. i can give you the carpenter.

at the moment i like things with character .. like brainiacs mods and my plum. I also leave the ohlz untreated. can I give you pictures of my long flat bow I built?

 

[Duck]

what do you treat your wood with?

I make a picture video about the failures, problems and their solution. that came out.

 

[blokenoname]

what do you treat your wood with?

Usually just some 'wood butter', i.e. a mix of beeswax and plant oil.

That plum unit looks really beautiful now Did the 20w bulb work out now?

Made some more bottom caps for my Misty Logs and also created a new glass core unit, from an older maple body, with a not so centered heater well
The heater cover is a 10mm * 0.5mm test tube. The heater is the 20ohm resistor, that is clad in a piece of 0.1mm ss foil, for better heat distribution within the less conductive glass heater cover. It'll accept 9-10mm glass tips for sliding over the core.

 

[Duck]

Very nice!

Thank you!
I decided yesterday for pure beeswax.
Yes with the 20W running he saw the video.

I will calmly deal with it now, my body is limp. recovery phase.

Here are the pictures of the Vapecap mouthpiece. have fun!

 

[blokenoname]

So... I think, @Alan 's 95J20RE resistor from the modded Square HI has found a new cozy home in this walnut Misty now

 

[Duck]

Super
now in olive with black shadow gap and rosewood lid. do you do the lid differently?
wood can be addictive. xD
not medically approved, but already works when you look at it.

got pinched in the video.
German verkniffen- Englisch?

 

[blokenoname]

That bottom cap is thicker (10mm), than the ones I did for the other units (0.5mm).
That's because the walnut body was already a shorty and so gains some hight through the added cap.
Now it's the same hight, as the maple/walnut Square HI and matches its woods

 

[Duck]

the combination looks cool.

 

[blokenoname]

the combination looks cool.

Thanks

Also got me a batch of the fatter, 95J20RE Ohmites (grey), Alan is using in his wider, 7/16" heater covers, as the 25J series we usually use (brown), seems out of stock for the moment.
Their diameter is a bit larger than the 25j, more akin to the cartridge heater and they also work very well in the 9mm or 3/8" heater cover, adding a bit more punch
Also: no need to wind one of the resistor's legs around the body for creating a more turbulent airflow, as the larger diameter body makes that redundant.

 

[Duck]

stand drill and small woodturners ordered. let's see if my back can do that on good days.

 

[blokenoname]

Love the sheer simplicity of the classic resistor heater approach

Just the bare bones: wood body, resistor, stainless steel heater cover, a plug, two screws and a drop of solder (a bit too much, in this specific case, though )
No insulation, no fuss, no BS
Just plug in and vape away

 

[GI]

Hi, i follow this on the old forum and made an alogrn 10w like yours but i cant find the 11X0,3 tube so i try with a 12x1 need 20 minutes to temp but it's very pleasant, good work you are the best. If i want to use a 20w alogen to have more power what i can use to regulate ? Dimmer, psu, pwm....what ? Sorry can you explain the possibility and difference between these tools ? Sorry for my English, thanks

 

[Duck]

can you order there? from which country do you come?
11 / 0,3

http://www.menzel-modellbau.de/zube...nwandiges-edelstahlrohr-durchmesser-11-x-03mm

I would also be interested in what the others take exactly.
Buck converter

https://www.amazon.de/s?k=Buck+converter+display&__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

[GI]

can you order there? from which country do you come?
11 / 0,3

http://www.menzel-modellbau.de/zube...nwandiges-edelstahlrohr-durchmesser-11-x-03mm

I would also be interested in what the others take exactly.
Buck converter

https://www.amazon.de/s?k=Buck+converter+display&__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Yes i see in the old forum, i would like to know if this buck converter or a dimmer or what else...is the same, which is the best method ?
For me a pot that regulate the power, in my mind, but there are many options, and i find only crap chinese thing....i would like to know more on this...anyway the 10w alogen with nothing else it's very good..

Fir the tubing... thanks I came from Italy and i dont speak german....also i can/cant use cdb only cannabis in my country...

 

[Duck]

In the old forum, quite early on, they used dimmers with a rotary knob. the subject creator knows better than that. I have to get something like that too.