Discontinued The Grasshopper

[Vapor_Eyes]

I've found that the differences are largely aesthetic, performance is the same no matter if your Grasshopper is Ti or SS. The thermal properties and scratch resistance also seem to be pretty much identical, Ti should theoretically have an advantage here but it must be very minor as I can't notice a difference to be honest.

In my opinion the only real advantage to the Ti is the lighter weight. The SS has much smoother threading on the backend and costs less. I think I prefer my SS overall, but the lighter weight of the Ti is very noticeable and makes it feel more like a real pen.

 

[voodoo_vape]

Just noticed a crack on my backend A week old and I find this!!! I'm a bit sad atm...

I'm assuming it's a crack because it's not straight. Looks a lot like the crack a member had recently on their charging cable.

So I'm taking a stab and saying that bit is magnetic too? If I actually used the cable I might find it not working too well.

Hopper still performs well and I'm exclusively external charger so hopefully this is only cosmetic and doesn't deteriorate further. Hell why do we external chargers even need this bit anyway. Is it not attracting dirt to the threads?

If yours has a crack, what does it have mine??? Holy crap...shall i ask them to replace the backend now that its still working properly??

PS: FC members community,support and troubleshooting is just unique and so much appreciated!!

 

[MoltenTiger]

If yours has a crack, what does it have mine??? Holy crap...shall i ask them to replace the backend now that its still working properly??

PS: FC members community,support and troubleshooting is just unique and so much appreciated!!

I don't think these pieces are magnets. They might be ferromagnetic, but you'd think if that was the case they'd be better placed on the other side (near where the magnetic charger connects).

It seems more likely that these parts are structural/conductive, and a crack without any performance alteration isn't worth worrying about.

scratch resistance

The Ti is a harder material than SS.

I just did some reading on a watch forum arguing benefits of either material,
this was interesting amongst most other tidbits

"There is however 1 disadvantage with titanium (and owning a couple of Ti watches I can talk from experience): scratches will be more visible. Because Ti forms a oxidized layer (patina) it gets a grey color and gives Ti the superb corrosive resistant properties. If it scratches you will see a new shiny part and the scratch will be more visible. This does not mean it scratches more or deeper, also here it are pure physics that gives this properties. Titanium is however easy to brush and buff out marks.

So my conclusion: Ti vs. SS: Ti is by far the better alloy." (sic)

The big difference between scuffing with the materials is dents and deep scratches. Titanium won't dent easy.
I dropped my Ti from 1.2m onto bitumen road.
The SS clip-ring was dented, the clicker that hit the ground first (the hopper turned on) had surface marks but no deep wounds

 

[Elac]

I was figuring that the magnetic ring was for helping to remove the battery.
If I hold my Hopper on it's side removing the backend also brings the battery out due to the magnetism. Just a guess.

 

[Gramin]

Yes you can pickup a battery using the back end so I'm pretty sure she's a magnet. Mine is working fine and I'm not even worried about it. If it fucks up I get it replaced.

Here's a toke vid. Please mute! https://vid.me/UZBs

 

[MoltenTiger]

Yes you can pickup a battery using the back end so I'm pretty sure she's a magnet. Mine is working fine and I'm not even worried about it. If it fucks up I get it replaced.

Here's a toke vid. Please mute! https://vid.me/UZBs

try picking up other metal objects though.. I have noticed the battery being pulled out by the back-end but only after using the magnetic charger. I always associated it with residual field

edit : seems to do it still, it's quite weak but it is faintly attracted towards the brass end.

yeah I guess they are magnets, which would explain the crack. not very strong, but it helps align the battery

quite fancy really, could also be for shielding?

 

[Gramin]

Right where this is resting is the strongest pull I'm getting.

 

[MoltenTiger]

Right where this is resting is the strongest pull I'm getting.

nice clean threads. I better pull the blue tac off the wall

 

[Gramin]

nice clean threads. I better pull the blue tac off the wall

Heh you gotta remember she's only about 2 weeks old. I've done one major thread clean and the occasional blu tac.

 

[mmafighterthe25]

On man my grasshopper supposed to arrive tomorrow can't wait.

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

The big difference between scuffing with the materials is dents and deep scratches. Titanium won't dent easy.

Ok, that makes sense. As far as scuffs my 5 month old Ti has more than my 8 month old SS. This could be from my own use, it is the one I usually pick to bring out of the house so that could be why it's getting more scuffed. I try to keep them both in rotation at home.

I don't mind the scuffs at all and actually prefer a slightly weathered look to my equipment in most cases. That being said, I've avoided the color models because I think the scuffs would make them look worse over time. If I had one I would probably baby it. With my SS and Ti I'm not super careful in regards to scuffs. Luckily I haven't had any major drops yet, I am really careful about that.

 

[Mr. Me2]

Are there any fixes for a "straight to blue" non working gh?

I know it's been discussed here plenty but found nothing on the fixes thread

 

[TheDudeNextDoor]

Not sure what everyone uses to store/carry their extra batteries, but I just by luck happened to have some of these little tubes that I've held onto just certain they would be useful one day, and that day finally came. They work beautifully with the Hopper batts. The diameter is perfect -- I just cut the length to size. Sharing in case anyone is interested:

Here's where I got them (5-pack for $7).

 

[biohacker]

Are there any fixes for a "straight to blue" non working gh?

I know it's been discussed here plenty but found nothing on the fixes thread

Negative. RMA. Or voodoo type shit. I opted for the latter and it's still going strong.

 

[kato1234]

I received a shipment of batteries from HL and unfortunately one of them has a small tear (~3mm) in the casing along the body. I remembered reading this post awhile back:



Wanting to get HL's opinion on the matter, I emailed support and received this response:

"Hi There,

We are sorry to hear that. We are happy to get it repaired for you if you want to send it in to us. It should be fine to use still but will likely continue to tear until it is repaired.

Let me know how you want to proceed.

Best,
Caroline"

I'm confused by the differing messages. I thought compromises in the wrap run the risk of shorting...or is it "fine" to use because it isn't near the nipple? Any thoughts?

Also, I'm aware that I can rewrap the battery, however, would a small piece of electrical tape suffice?

Don't use a damaged battery. You can rewrap "check Youtube" for how to rewrap. Amazon etc has wraps or for 7 dollars get a new battery if you don't want to rewrap. Vape safe please.

 

[duff]

Anyone for thoughts on Stickybrick vs IQ for sleepiness?

Love my sticky brick but I'd stick to conduction.
I'd imagine the IQ would be a correct tool for the job.
As @Vapor_Eyes mentioned earlier, the Vapcap is an intriguing unit too.
A Hopper and Vapcap would make for an impressive portable package.

So this happened:

That's nuts.
Did the rest of that sliver come off cleanly?
Are the threads on the back end ok?

 

[JoeMama]

Love my sticky brick but I'd stick to conduction.
I'd imagine the IQ would be a correct tool for the job.
As @Vapor_Eyes mentioned earlier, the Vapcap is an intriguing unit too.
A Hopper and Vapcap would make for an impressive portable package.


That's nuts.
Did the rest of that sliver come off cleanly?
Are the threads on the back end ok?

Well, it seemed to come off after about a complete turn.
It doesn't seem to be actual "rails" of the threads (I don't know if there's a term for this), and it perhaps was just a remnant that was snuggled in there well enough to have avoided detection...

The backend fit appears to be fine. I did email Caroline with that photo, and haven't heard back.

I'm hoping that having attached a pic in my email, doesn't somehow junk it as spam.

Don't use a damaged battery. You can rewrap "check Youtube" for how to rewrap. Amazon etc has wraps or for 7 dollars get a new battery if you don't want to rewrap. Vape safe please.

Fuck that, I'd tell GHL to send me a new one. Period. Take a pic of it, send it to Caroline and make them step up to the plate.

They need to have better QA for pete's sake... and if they're not yanked on the ear about this shit then they'll never grow up.

Oh, that's just my opinion, by the way.

 

[mmafighterthe25]

So I just bought the pinnacle pro hydra tube off eBay for 44 total with shipping. I think this with grasshopper will be sick

 

[Kanyayweest]

Yeah the pinnacle style hydratube is great, have one myself and the hopper just milks tf out of it. So guys, my hopper has been running fine after being warrantied 2 months ago but I've dropped it countless times (thank god for my new backup hopper haha) and recently I can get through 2 bowls before the unit is too hot to hold. I get police lights (red and slight blue) when the unit gets too hot but otherwise it works great. Does it sound like it's time to warranty again?

 

[skyvaper]

In my own experience and from posts several pages back, a semi functioning grasshopper will most likely come back with them being unable to recreate the problem.

I'd personally like a video of them testing my SS hopper with their bare hands on my backend to see if they can tolerate the acceptable range.

 

[Hjalmark]

@JoeMama crazy stuff with your threads!

Otherwise I wanted to come here and talk mouthpieces again and cotton fiber

So this glass one I got from a Bubbler that broke (8$+shipping) so I cut and sanded it down because it was about the right size

It gives me much cooler hits and lets me rip big ones on 4 but I am started to worry about particles going into my lungs so I bought "organic unbleached Japanese cotton fiber" for about a dollar for a 10x pack and plan on using a ball of it in the end of the glass mouth piece

So I am hoping this will let me take healthier dry hits + I am planning on making oil from bud and directly into the cotton fiber

Then I just keep that in a jar with a pair of tweezer, tested this out last week with a small batch, maybe my preferred method in using hopper

But again ... Damn particles in lungs is never a good thing

 

[slcbdco]

Yeah the pinnacle style hydratube is great, have one myself and the hopper just milks tf out of it. So guys, my hopper has been running fine after being warrantied 2 months ago but I've dropped it countless times (thank god for my new backup hopper haha) and recently I can get through 2 bowls before the unit is too hot to hold. I get police lights (red and slight blue) when the unit gets too hot but otherwise it works great. Does it sound like it's time to warranty again?

The cop lights you describe sound normal, it's an indicator of the heater getting too hot and when the temp goes back to tolerance it goes away.

 

[biohacker]

The cop lights you describe sound normal, it's an indicator of the heater getting too hot and when the temp goes back to tolerance it goes away.

But why does it happen to his and not mine? I'd love for someone to torture test their GH's more than me. Remember, the GH is my daily driver (presently only 1 GH) and I use it repetitively and have never, ever, once seen the cop lights on any of my 4 hoppers. The only time i've seen the cop lights was on my very first gen backer GH that was DOA. I just don't understand how some people's hoppers can overheat "normally" while other's don't?

I repeat, I have never ever seen the coplights or overheat warning and I use my GH exclusively on 5, and repeat hits until the battery is toast, and then pop another one in and keep going. I use it like a desktop, exclusively through water....hmmm, maybe that's why, but then again i'd think that would put even greater demand on the heater than using it native.

If the coplights are recent as was indicated, after dropping it a bunch of times, i'd say there is a good chance that there might be an issue. Especially if it's a new behaviour which it appears it is. Tough call for RMA, i'd personally wait until it drove me nuts, like I did for my other RMA's.

 

[slcbdco]

Under normal operation, the cop lights indicate the heater is over heated. If the unit is being used a lot and then has temporary cop lights that is consistent with the warning mechanism. The cop lights are not connected to or associated with being dropped. They only serve to indicate overheat which is temporary as is described or temp sensor failure which is permanent and requires an RMA.

If you don't have cop lights it's because your heater is not over heating. One persons heavy use is not the same and if someone is going through two bowls in quick succession as described I could see that triggering the warning cop lights.

I reply not to get into a discussion about the features of the grasshopper, only to inform on what they are.

The grasshopper website has a page that explains all the different warning lights and video so there's no reason to speculate.

 

[biohacker]

One persons heavy use is not the same and if someone is going through two bowls in quick succession as described I could see that triggering the warning cop lights.

Well, I go through alot more than 2 bowls in quick succession as I said and never seen them. Perhaps something else is triggering and prompting the high temp warning, perhaps something like dropping it several times? Coplights have pointed more toward RMA in this thread, than just overheating from what i've read. Well, I guess my testing for today is to try to make my GH overheat! I have a feeling i'll get straight to blue before that happens though.