• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

Discontinued The Grasshopper

Kermitt

Well-Known Member
well you have been smarter than me!

I was in your situation, I live in France, I had a SS GH from vaposhop, hot backend as well, but I did send my unit in Boulder Colorado and it came back with the following message:



:/ :/ :/

I made a similar mistake. Caroline sent me a new backend, but that did not work better. Now I have to send my spare-backend back to Colorado.

Now I'm asking myself, why I don't contact the vaposhop immediatly ...
 

lovecrush

http://goo.gl/EsKJzJ
I don't know if this was posted here before, but I'm drooling over this weed /u/CakeBonzai posted on reddit. Seems like the strain is Skywalker Kush or something like that. :drool:


2ytEXeMEXNVCbDzhC6pE8EMVstWr0qqTRK4laUdjkl0.png
 

Mulehead

Well-Known Member
Am I the only one removing screen and cone for every cleaning?
IMO if it's not taken apart and each piece cleaned separately every cleaning, it's gonna seize up from resin build up.
GHL should supply a screen removal tool for each device sold IMO.
You can't convince me that the GHL engineers didn't know this when designing.
Maybe they didn't have an original DaVinci vape.
I learned my cleaning lesson on that device.
Anyone having trouble removing it, heat the mouthpiece up with a hair dryer while not on unit.
Hold mouthpiece with a pair of hemostats/pliers and heat that fucker up good.
Then immediately try turning counterclockwise with precision tweezers, found mine at Menards for <$5, might have to screw it back and forth to break any stubborn resin.
After removing screen, you have essentially chased the threads inside clean.
After dismantling I soak all parts in Iso for a few, and then wipe all, and threads clean with q-tips.
Then everybody in the pool to take a quick HOT water soak.
Don't forget about those backend threads, internal contact too.
Hope this helps

Edit: if screen stops unscrewing heat that fucker up again!
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
Am I the only one removing screen and cone for every cleaning?
IMO if it's not taken apart and each piece cleaned separately every cleaning, it's gonna seize up from resin build up.
GHL should supply a screen removal tool for each device sold IMO.
You can't convince me that the GHL engineers didn't know this when designing.
Maybe they didn't have an original DaVinci vape.
I learned my cleaning lesson on that device.
Anyone having trouble removing it, heat the mouthpiece up with a hair dryer while not on unit.
Hold mouthpiece with a pair of hemostats/pliers and heat that fucker up good.
Then immediately try turning counterclockwise with precision tweezers, found mine at Menards for <$5, might have to screw it back and forth to break any stubborn resin.
After removing screen, you have essentially chased the threads inside clean.
After dismantling I soak all parts in Iso for a few, and then wipe all, and threads clean with q-tips.
Then everybody in the pool to take a quick HOT water soak.
Don't forget about those backend threads, internal contact too.
Hope this helps

Edit: if screen stops unscrewing heat that fucker up again!
Resource thread?
 

btka

Well-Known Member
Am I the only one removing screen and cone for every cleaning?
IMO if it's not taken apart and each piece cleaned separately every cleaning, it's gonna seize up from resin build up.
GHL should supply a screen removal tool for each device sold IMO.
You can't convince me that the GHL engineers didn't know this when designing.
Maybe they didn't have an original DaVinci vape.
I learned my cleaning lesson on that device.
Anyone having trouble removing it, heat the mouthpiece up with a hair dryer while not on unit.
Hold mouthpiece with a pair of hemostats/pliers and heat that fucker up good.
Then immediately try turning counterclockwise with precision tweezers, found mine at Menards for <$5, might have to screw it back and forth to break any stubborn resin.
After removing screen, you have essentially chased the threads inside clean.
After dismantling I soak all parts in Iso for a few, and then wipe all, and threads clean with q-tips.
Then everybody in the pool to take a quick HOT water soak.
Don't forget about those backend threads, internal contact too.
Hope this helps

Edit: if screen stops unscrewing heat that fucker up again!
I am not removing the screen to clean my mouthpiece... as it is not recommended (mentioned) from ghl... the gh manual is recommending to soak the mouthpiece as a whole in iso...

Did you try only soaking the mp in iso... is there any residue after soaking the whole mp without removing screen and then soaking everthing separatly in iso....
 

newVaper420

Vapor Enthusiast
I am not removing the screen to clean my mouthpiece... as it is not recommended (mentioned) from ghl... the gh manual is recommending to soak the mouthpiece as a whole in iso...

Did you try only soaking the mp in iso... is there any residue after soaking the whole mp without removing screen and then soaking everthing separatly in iso....

I can tell you that I've soaked the mouthpiece in ISO numerous times. Today my screen fell out. And there was definitely stuff still in there. I haven't soaked the mouthpiece that long in ISO so maybe that makes a difference.
 

radiant34

Well-Known Member
my ti mouthpeice doesnt want to screw on now. tried screwing it on my ss body, it holds but barely. anyone else have problems with de-threaded mouthpeices? ive only had it for not even 2 weeks. meanwhile my stainless steel one has been holding up for 4 months now
 
radiant34,
  • Like
Reactions: Gregori

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Am I the only one removing screen and cone for every cleaning?
IMO if it's not taken apart and each piece cleaned separately every cleaning, it's gonna seize up from resin build up.
GHL should supply a screen removal tool for each device sold IMO.
You can't convince me that the GHL engineers didn't know this when designing.
Maybe they didn't have an original DaVinci vape.
I learned my cleaning lesson on that device.
Anyone having trouble removing it, heat the mouthpiece up with a hair dryer while not on unit.
Hold mouthpiece with a pair of hemostats/pliers and heat that fucker up good.
Then immediately try turning counterclockwise with precision tweezers, found mine at Menards for <$5, might have to screw it back and forth to break any stubborn resin.
After removing screen, you have essentially chased the threads inside clean.
After dismantling I soak all parts in Iso for a few, and then wipe all, and threads clean with q-tips.
Then everybody in the pool to take a quick HOT water soak.
Don't forget about those backend threads, internal contact too.
Hope this helps

Edit: if screen stops unscrewing heat that fucker up again!

Oh that was a nice big dose of help!! Now I feel equipped to attack this sucker... it hasn't been removed at all because I couldn't budge it! Now I'm on a mission.
Thank you!

Resource thread?

ABsoFRIGginLUTEly!

I don't know if this was posted here before, but I'm drooling over this weed /u/CakeBonzai posted on reddit. Seems like the strain is Skywalker Kush or something like that. :drool:


2ytEXeMEXNVCbDzhC6pE8EMVstWr0qqTRK4laUdjkl0.png

That looks good. I never thought of using the clicker to punch in the herb.
 
Last edited:

Mulehead

Well-Known Member
The sweet oil reclaim that we try to catch and use again is like glue when it "sets up".
Ask anyone that has an original DaVinci, pliers will not remove the top screen unless it is heated.

I am not removing the screen to clean my mouthpiece... as it is not recommended (mentioned) from ghl... the gh manual is recommending to soak the mouthpiece as a whole in iso...

Did you try only soaking the mp in iso... is there any residue after soaking the whole mp without removing screen and then soaking everthing separatly in iso....

I think the recommended soak by GH is for convenience to sell more.
Anyone that vapes much knows how clogged a log stem screen gets, or how much reclaim comes from an S&B cooling unit, or how sticky a MV flexicone can get, or those of us that use hemp fiber as a filter can attest to the stickiness.
If the engineers at GHL don't recommend dismantling the mouthpiece then maybe they don't vape as much as we do here at FC?

Rite on @JoeMama!
Glad I could help brother!
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
I can tell you that I've soaked the mouthpiece in ISO numerous times. Today my screen fell out. And there was definitely stuff still in there. I haven't soaked the mouthpiece that long in ISO so maybe that makes a difference.

Could more stuff have built up behind it because it wasn't tightened down all the way?

I'm picturing a grinder with a removable screen. If that thing isn't threaded all the way tight, all sorts of stuff gets in there!
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
I think I'm screwed....

This mouthpiece has taken an hour of my time and it's now "almost out" but totally seized at the last few turns. I had to put this fucker in hot water to get it loose, and I hadn't realized that Titanium and Stainless Steel have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Which means they expand at different rates over temperature...

Anyway, I'm in an un-usable state with the hopper until I either get the screen out, or, back in.

I should've read @btka 's admonishment of his own that maybe this is a bad idea if it's been too long and there's too much build up.

We'll see, I'll keep ya'll posted.

EDIT: I got the bastard! The one thing that should be added to the process is:
If it seems to be seized, rap the fucker on the table (carefully of course). It needs a little shock now and then.

But, assuming I get it back in (stay tuned!), it seems worth the trouble, because it's loaded with gooey resin.

EDIT: SUCCESS.

More tips for the stubborn screens:
• Make every effort to place those tweezer points at the very edge of the screen. Obviously GH has a tool to position the screen (there are three "grab points" on its circumference).
• To screw it back in, use a table surface with the MP pointing down, place the tweezers firmly, and screw the MP counterclockwise rather than attempting to screw the screen clockwise. Much better control that way. Also, less force is better, as the threads should glide rather smoothly. You may encounter a snag or two or three, but take a breath and back off and then continue.

Back to the clouds :) Good night!
 
Last edited:

CarrotWarrior

Well-Known Member
Second week of having my TI hopper, no lights during charging and just gives flickering red lights upon start up :huh: submitted warranty already.

T'was really great when it worked tho, and hope its just something minor like the charger :drool: ... Anyone else encounter this :bowdown:?

In the mean time just going to order a nitecore charger, case and back to my other back up vapes :sherlock:
 
CarrotWarrior,

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Second week of having my TI hopper, no lights during charging and just gives flickering red lights upon start up :huh: submitted warranty already.

T'was really great when it worked tho, and hope its just something minor like the charger :drool: ... Anyone else encounter this :bowdown:?

In the mean time just going to order a nitecore charger, case and back to my other back up vapes :sherlock:
Definitely get the Nitecore. There's a good chance it's just a charging problem. In the meantime it may just be metal debris or dirt on the charger.

Check the fixes resource for the official troubleshooting flowchart and the USB charger section:

http://fuckcombustion.com/resources/grasshopper-fixes.11/
 

priestsmiler

Well-Known Member
Kudos in how quick a replacement arrived following my warranty request... My replacement titanium body arrived yesterday but was too busy until night time to try it out, lo and behold no heat and purple lights... tried different batteries and even tried my ss backend to no avail. Not a happy bunny. So now ghl will be sending me a new ti body and I will send them back 2 dead titanium bodies. Also vapefiend will be sent my complete ss hopper to return to ghl for me. Although I am certainly not going to be sending my ss back until I receive a working ti unit. Maybe ghl should test units and also replacement parts before sending them out. I bought 2 so 1 could be a backup when 1 goes in for service. I don't remember who it was on this forum, but whoever suggested a backup gh for their backup you are definitely onto something... :/ if funds were readily available I envisage 7 hoppers, 1 for each day. Tbf probably a good job thats not the case as I would end up carrying all of them loaded with different strains, all labelled.
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Aside of probs, what do you think about this kind of hopper's storage

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Triple-Pen..._21?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9ZYEDQ5DZT2WVWF6P3JT

Combined with a cigar holder case like this or a leather sleeve to prevent hopper from scratches while storage you additionally can place two batteries or two doob tubes.

Fix clip into your jacket and you have your hopper always ready without the need of carrying a bag or somtething like this everytime
 
Last edited:

Michel

Well-Known Member
Kudos in how quick a replacement arrived following my warranty request... My replacement titanium body arrived yesterday but was too busy until night time to try it out, lo and behold no heat and purple lights... tried different batteries and even tried my ss backend to no avail. Not a happy bunny. So now ghl will be sending me a new ti body and I will send them back 2 dead titanium bodies. Also vapefiend will be sent my complete ss hopper to return to ghl for me. Although I am certainly not going to be sending my ss back until I receive a working ti unit. Maybe ghl should test units and also replacement parts before sending them out. I bought 2 so 1 could be a backup when 1 goes in for service. I don't remember who it was on this forum, but whoever suggested a backup gh for their backup you are definitely onto something... :/ if funds were readily available I envisage 7 hoppers, 1 for each day. Tbf probably a good job thats not the case as I would end up carrying all of them loaded with different strains, all labelled.

Doesn't vapefiend sent a new unit out from their own stock if they have to warranty a grasshopper like vaposhop does?
 
Michel,

Mulehead

Well-Known Member
Titanium and Stainless Steel have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Which means they expand at different rates over temperature

My unit is SS, but I just picked up a Ti that hasn't had a bath yet.
Thank you back, I'll keep this in mind when cleaning my Ti.
I will plan to clean Ti sooner than SS as to hopefully not need the heat.

Were you able to poke the cone out as well?

I have the most trouble removing the cone.
Seems to get "glued" in pretty quickly.

The MP dismantle is a bit more work, but it always refreshes my hopper back to new.
Anyone noticing a drop in performance, might want to go through the effort.
You may be surprised what's in behind that screen.

The SS MP threads on to both bodies sooo much smoother, and it may just be easier to clean with the added heat option, plus it's 5 bucks cheaper for an extra!
The smoother threads alone were enough for me to order one for my Ti.
I'm not a fan of the "crunchy" Ti MP threads.
 
Mulehead,
  • Like
Reactions: moondog

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
For comparison's sake, when I gave my mouthpiece an ISO bath, I used a baggie and dropped that in a glass of really hot water (using the Crafty/Mighty cu cleaning approach). That seemed to work fine without needing complete disassembly.
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
I think I'm screwed....

This mouthpiece has taken an hour of my time and it's now "almost out" but totally seized at the last few turns. I had to put this fucker in hot water to get it loose, and I hadn't realized that Titanium and Stainless Steel have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Which means they expand at different rates over temperature...

Anyway, I'm in an un-usable state with the hopper until I either get the screen out, or, back in.

I should've read @btka 's admonishment of his own that maybe this is a bad idea if it's been too long and there's too much build up.

We'll see, I'll keep ya'll posted.

EDIT: I got the bastard! The one thing that should be added to the process is:
If it seems to be seized, rap the fucker on the table (carefully of course). It needs a little shock now and then.

But, assuming I get it back in (stay tuned!), it seems worth the trouble, because it's loaded with gooey resin.

EDIT: SUCCESS.

More tips for the stubborn screens:
• Make every effort to place those tweezer points at the very edge of the screen. Obviously GH has a tool to position the screen (there are three "grab points" on its circumference).
• To screw it back in, use a table surface with the MP pointing down, place the tweezers firmly, and screw the MP counterclockwise rather than attempting to screw the screen clockwise. Much better control that way. Also, less force is better, as the threads should glide rather smoothly. You may encounter a snag or two or three, but take a breath and back off and then continue.

Back to the clouds :) Good night!
What a saga, Joe!

Seems like this would be another good addition to the resource thread.
 

newVaper420

Vapor Enthusiast
I have been carrying my Grasshopper in my pocket lately since I don't have a pouch yet. I'm gonna try to order next week from grasshoppervape.com. I love Ratchett's case, but it's just too big and too much for me. I just need a leather sleeve.

I love how I can just put it on my desk and no one notices it. LOL
 

kingfisher

Well-Known Member
Am I the only one removing screen and cone for every cleaning?
IMO if it's not taken apart and each piece cleaned separately every cleaning, it's gonna seize up from resin build up.
GHL should supply a screen removal tool for each device sold IMO.
You can't convince me that the GHL engineers didn't know this when designing.
Maybe they didn't have an original DaVinci vape.
I learned my cleaning lesson on that device.
Anyone having trouble removing it, heat the mouthpiece up with a hair dryer while not on unit.
Hold mouthpiece with a pair of hemostats/pliers and heat that fucker up good.
Then immediately try turning counterclockwise with precision tweezers, found mine at Menards for <$5, might have to screw it back and forth to break any stubborn resin.
After removing screen, you have essentially chased the threads inside clean.
After dismantling I soak all parts in Iso for a few, and then wipe all, and threads clean with q-tips.
Then everybody in the pool to take a quick HOT water soak.
Don't forget about those backend threads, internal contact too.
Hope this helps

Edit: if screen stops unscrewing heat that fucker up again!

I have never removed the screen from either of my ghs. I do let it soak overnight and before the alcohol drys I blow compressed air through it. Well I actually haven't done this yet bUT I plan to. After reading your comments... wondering if I am missing some goo. I do twist paper towels soaked in cleaner so I can use it as a pipe cleaner for the nozzle in the tip.

I haven't noticed any degraded performance unless it's getting really built up right before cleaning. I only clean it once every couple of weeks...
Oh one more tip. I used a glass jar, like a stash jar to hold the alcohol and parts for soaking. Body can only be immersed up to the light so I don't soak that. Top only gets wiped down and threads coated with deoxit.
 
kingfisher,
  • Like
Reactions: JoeMama
Top Bottom