MonkeyTime
Well-Known Member
I'm of the belief that it isn't about v4 vs v5, but rather manufacturing inconsistencies from unit to unit. That is what has been consistent.
Discontinued The Grasshopper
- Thread starter midgetsanchez
- Start date
I'm of the belief that it isn't about v4 vs v5, but rather manufacturing inconsistencies from unit to unit. That is what has been consistent.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
I just emailed support asking what is the user fix for restricted draw, a condition that seems to plague all Hoppers, after a while they are never as easy drawing as when new or freshly serviced.
They answered me in 50 minutes:
"Using compressed air to blow out the device works well. Also make sure the front end screen is clean by soaking that part in ISO."
I admit that I haven't tried the air, but I will now. Could it be that easy?
They answered me in 50 minutes:
"Using compressed air to blow out the device works well. Also make sure the front end screen is clean by soaking that part in ISO."
I admit that I haven't tried the air, but I will now. Could it be that easy?
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Fair to question it, and in thinking about it it's become needlessly complex
I just mean along the lines of leaving reusable material. Vaping at 210 degrees is going to leave reusable material, going above this temp limits the practicality of reuse.
I like a 235 degree roast, and I've had hoppers achieve this, where the ABV is left super dark brown like from the sub, on the brink of combustion and toasted right the way through.
But temp 5 is supposed to be 210 degrees, which from what I learnt from using the Tubo, the StemPod and the EQ, 210 degrees is too low a setting and I'd generally aim higher.
Conduction vapes do low 200 temps better than convection IME, in terms of tanning the herb. But convection gets a better high from the rapid broad spectrum release. But it's not enough energy generally to properly smash the herb like the convection power of the flower pot, sublimator and similar surely can.
I also always noted that using the EQ, or other vapes mentioned and ones I've tried except for a few, there is so often inconsistency to the ABV and scorching was common. This means there is huge thermal gradient across the herb and inefficient vaporisation occurring. The Sub blasts right though chunks of flower, it's all the same colour once it's done. And it turns to dust n the fingers. The GH is the same, but it's golden and there's still some oil left, which has plenty more actives. Enough to worry about, perhaps.
Getting a consistent 210 I consider to be just tolerable, what's left is marginal enough for me.
What people were saying about the GH back when I pre-ordered in 2014 has played out as very true. And I agree with it, what the VaporizerWizard was saying in his review is what sold me, and it's all legit. Apart from the very real failure rate and RMA situation - struggle street.
I don't think the GH is meant to cash loads in one hit. It's original intention was a discreet multi hitter, and that's what it does best. It cashes loads in several hits that taper off. However, it hits hard enough to do the job full time. In some ways it's better going to higher temps, but in most ways it's not. I suppose. High temps are more impacting, and I much prefer destroyed herb being emptied from the vape, and not golden reusable ABV (as I don't reuse it). But I always have fresh green, so as long as the pen is working.. at 210 it's fine.
The GH can run cool, as in cooler than 210, and that's not good. But they have at times been released in batches where the temp was obviously higher than 210. And as good as that was, it has never ended well.
I'd say that 210 itself is cool, so it might not give optimum results in terms of yield efficiency if it's working for everyone. But it should deliver a nice high without effort, and it seems very efficient in most ways.
I don't have a Fury 2 to compare, but I imagine it has a more conduction effect occurring which would lend it to delivering a darker ABV. How do the highs compare?
It's hard to be unhappy with my ABV when I'm happy with the buzz, but I still am a little unhappy with the 210 limitation and prefer it when ... a quote from my warranty lodged Nov 21st arrived Dec 28th, due back in a month or so;
That chocolate brown ABV is what I like. And, I have a blonde ABV bowl in front of me.. The main thing is it's all the same colour, and it's been the same colour ever since I got it May 21. And it hits hard enough that I've been as happy with it since then.
I'm super curious how my other hoppers will be when they get here... 3 units should show some variance. The other HT unit I was using a while back got hotter than my unit - but get this - it ruined flavour and I opted for my own most often. I mainly used it for claisen hits and I could easily see that the other unit would pump out clouds sooner and reach ever slightly higher density by direct comparison. But, the hits without the terpenes is lacking, a solid 210 hit does the job. The Sub suffers at this temp, it only one hits bowls at 235, anything less is a two hit or more ordeal. One hit meaning depleting the chamber in less than 45 seconds. Watching the cloud peak, fade and clear. That is the ultimate vapour bong hit, and actually I've never seen a hopper do it. The hopper isn't so good at high temps compared to units designed for it, like the Sub. But the Hopper is awesome as a mid temp convection vape. The clouds it pumps out are quality and that's what matters.
@vapviking it's pretty easy to use compressed air to blast the new version units. They cool down a lot by doing this, so I'd advise a.) avoid burning yourself as it is small and fiddly and easy to do, and b.) avoid using the unit after blasting it, to avoid thermal shocking anything. Take out the battery and blast everything. I did this to the other HT after it got cough bonged a little badly. Water through the gills, seeping out of everywhere. No drama. Have seen awesome durability from these HT units. They're super, super nice.
I'll also note that I found a pic from May 22 of my GH PCB on my phone today, and I was taking a comparative pic out of interest earlier. There's a little bit of difference - the central pad is worn from the battery rotating, but everything else is all good. Even after being short circuited and heating up a whole bunch of times.
There's definitely some sealant going on on everything down around the chamber to keep residue/resin from getting everywhere and stuffing it up.
I was using straight BHO in the hopper a couple weeks back, and it was so amazing. Sooooo strong. Got a bunch of people super ripped, on top of tincture, bongs and vapes.
I haven't had to clean it as it all just evapped off. It got a little cloggy recently, so I scraped it out and got a dry q-tip in the chamber. scrubs up easily when warm. Super low maintenance vape, I just threw a couple of PFEs in a glass of metho this morning, and rinsed with hot water tonight. Clean as. So good.
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
Whoa, whoa, whoa. Nobody said anything previously about one hit. That’s a new factor in our discussion, yeah?
I still believe that GH should (and mine did) cash loads. That is, it should fully extract w the heat available to the unit.
Mine no longer do that. They run cold. My Mighty max out at 210c alsobut has not issues fully extracting, IMO.
Cheers
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Ah, was thinking that's what you meant by straight away, to which I decided I've never had a hopper extract straight away, unless you count one that was malfunctioning (temp too high).
With the hopper I've always had to do multiple tokes getting vapour for a good number of draws.
With minimal conduction, it's harder to heat soak the herb. The Mighty benefits from its conduction, but I prefer to hit the GH. I need to do multiple passes at 30 seconds a hit to get what I want out of my herb, which is perfect. With the sub it just requires 1 pass, but then it's not deplete. 1.5 tokes (or 1 huge hit) will produce the closest to deplete ABV possible, and the hopper can never match that.
I'm under the impression that 210 from the Mighty results in ABV that can still be made into tincture or edibles - so how deplete is it really? The GH should be able to cash loads as well as the Mighty but it shouldn't discolour to the same extent. Both won't deplete cannabinoids from the sample, nothing does. But both should perform satisfactorily, if not there's likely a problem. Problems aren't exactly rare with the hopper, so if it's not reaching 210 it'll need to be serviced
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Ah, damn internet misunderstandings strike again! hahaha
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
I’ve used Deoxit on the backend but quit using it because it never seemed to help much.
Deoxit is safe for electrical connections but a fairly nasty chemical, so I would be very careful using it on the front end, or anywhere in the airpath. I would probably follow with a couple wipes from a slightly damp cloth. Maybe even an iso wipe and another water wipe after that to be safe. And of course give everything plenty of time to dry out before using again.
I do use a 3M version of blutack to clean the threads, but only two to three times a year. The Ti is always dirtier than my SS from oxidation.
My fixes resource is meant to temporarily restore functionality in emergency situations. Desperate times call for desperate measures after all.
Only Hopper Labs can truly fix a broken Grasshopper.
barleecat
Well-Known Member
I have yet to see any proof of that
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
GrandWazoo
Well-Known Member
Ok boys, six months without ! Will it come back ? Good. Doesn't it ? Don't worry so much, it won't be my one and only daily driver anymore. Curiosly I still don't have my unit back , but I'm asking myself what shall I do when it will break next time, because I think this will happen for sure .
I'm going to start cleaning my GH threads with Blu-Tack more often. It's not a cure-all, but my Hoppers definitely seem to work a lot better after the cleaning...for a while anyway. Shorter heat-up times, better heater performance, bigger clouds, better extraction.
My Ti units also seem to produce more "residue" on the threads than my SS units.
One downside of using Blu-Tack is the inability to effectively clean the threads directly behind the pen clip on the back end.
Has anyone come up with a trick to get this area clean?
On a different topic, some FC members have expressed concern when they hear the Hopper "ticking". For me, hearing a more pronounced "ticking" sound is usually associated with a bigger hit!
Hammahead
Well-Known Member
Ok, I'm very, very impressed. That stuff makes helluva difference. I used the Tesa-Tack and right after that the BluTack and it removed so much more, I even noticed less resistance when screwing the backend in the body after cleaning. It's a lot stickier, happy I tried it.
elykpeace
exVASted
Great news! My v5 updated ti comes Monday and hopefully a quick turn around on my cool runner SSYay got my v5 rma ss body and rma ti unit in this morning. They both work great. Now we will see how long they last. Also I’ve had 4 different hoppers and they all tick. Even the new v5s I just got.....
Zow237
Well-Known Member
my new ss body took about 2 weeks. not terrible. The ti was there since January hahah
newVaper420
Vapor Enthusiast
Ok new body arrived. Heats up way faster. And hitting great at 3.5 again lol. Backend same, batteries same.
newVaper420
Vapor Enthusiast
I think this one is going to be rma’d shortly. It turns off randomly. And sometimes doesn’t turn on.
Edit: ok it’s dead. Doesn’t get hot.
Edit: ok it’s dead. Doesn’t get hot.
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Cheesequake
Free Men Don't Ask
Got an email from HL saying they're sending me replacement part(s). Not sure what they're sending exactly but I guess I'll find out some time soonish maybe.
guyonthecouch
Well-Known Member
Have you tried it with a different back end to identify the faulty part? When I first received my v5 I had similar issues and thought it was the body at first but it was the back end.
This happened to me but it was the opposite, my v5 body wouldn't work with my PFE and would work with the regular front end. Soaked and cleaned the threads in the PFE, cleaned the threads on the front end of the body till they were like new and it worked fine afterwards. My guess is that it's a thread connection related issue. Try cleaning the threads on the inside of your front end pieces.
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newVaper420
Vapor Enthusiast
I only have one back end. They sending me another body. I asked them, what about the back end.
No answer.
No answer.