Discontinued The Grasshopper
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Hjalmark
Oldest boy alive
Hoping this fits on my PFE and then maybe won't burn my lips
This is a really good idea ... I was thinking earlier simply tapping the threads into the wood but that wouldn't hold up in the long run, even with hardwood, which got me thinking about insert with thread ... seems you were thinking the same! Didn't occur to me to just cut down the existing PFE's. Would be a lot more cost effective to build if you could just build a SS threaded insert though ... this shouldn't be a $30-$40 piece!
GrandWazoo
Well-Known Member
Being a long time out of your community. This summer a natural disaster happened to my GH : a great wave reached it and it got a short , since then it didn't work anymore. So I vaped for two months with another one , a good one with no issue at all , but at certain point I realized I wanted my GH back . So I sent it to Labs , they did a great job and now I finally have my Gh back. When I used both I didn't notice great differences , but now , now I understand how great the GH is. With the same kind of bud it is more efficient , and also the flavor is the best ! Very happy , three second heat , fantastic , Thank you Labs !
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JoeMama
Well-Known Member
Happy Autumn everyone....
I'm pretty sure the body of my ti is of the 'older' type, but I can't be sure... I've read here (in the distant past) about being able to "see the blue" inside the chamber behind the screen...
Anyway, my question is: I wish to remove the screen to observe how clean or not clean the below-the-screen area looks, and I thought it was simply a matter of tweezing the screen and turning it a bit to set it free. But it just seems to turn without any other notable reactions from this. I mean, it can turn repeatedly in place, not screwing up or down, or clicking into place, or anything....
How does one remove this thing? Or is this a bad thing to try and do?
I'm pretty sure the body of my ti is of the 'older' type, but I can't be sure... I've read here (in the distant past) about being able to "see the blue" inside the chamber behind the screen...
Anyway, my question is: I wish to remove the screen to observe how clean or not clean the below-the-screen area looks, and I thought it was simply a matter of tweezing the screen and turning it a bit to set it free. But it just seems to turn without any other notable reactions from this. I mean, it can turn repeatedly in place, not screwing up or down, or clicking into place, or anything....
How does one remove this thing? Or is this a bad thing to try and do?
MonkeyTime
Well-Known Member
You need to pull up on it to get it out. I use a fine pointed dental pick and grab it near the edge. I did notice today when the light hit it, that it's not flat anymore, there are dents where I've pulled on it.
Using your tweezers, are they fine enough to get into the holes? If so, I'm sure you'll pop it out fairly easily.
ktmstick
Well-Known Member
I use a needle that I have bent the end on to act as a hook to pull the screen out.
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Monk... I do have the pointy tweezers (I used to use it to unscrew the screen in the mouthpiece before I got the PFE).
I'll keep at it. Also thanks for the heads up about the denting potential!
Vapetrees
Vaped Out
You can’t really damage it by using the fine pointed tweezers, tweezing it from opposite ends of the screen(to not damage sensors in the middle of the screen), and pulling up
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Unless you have a straight to blue issue, I don't think removing the screen and cleaning will make any real difference.
I made a post a while back showing the gunk I'd found under my screen and explained the device wasn't getting to temp (or properly, not as hot as I've had these devices operate at, which I prefer). Cleaning it made no difference.
I think a straight pointy tool is the best for removing the screen (I used a medical pick), it must be levered up and dragged out. It takes a bit of force, but if slowly applied then there's no real risk. It's a sturdy screen, though it's just metal so some care is needed. Not a lot though, it's the sturdiest screen I've handled by a long shot.
Hjalmark
Oldest boy alive
The drip tips are in!!
The longer one called "long stainless steel and wood drop tips (wd013) fitted perfectly
But hopper still in repairs so simulating the experience with my Enano gong and PFE stuck on that
The shorter wide bore one fitted too lose but the problem is the size of the silicon ring
That seams to be thinner on the wide bore but little to tight when I switched the rings
But definitely doable specially if you have access to a more of those rings and then any 510 tip would fit
Got the thing on 7 and that is like hopper on 4 but still not the same
Hopper heat stream is extremely thick and uniformed while Enano can cool down after couple of continuous big hits .. Or like 4-5 people using it same time
The longer one called "long stainless steel and wood drop tips (wd013) fitted perfectly
But hopper still in repairs so simulating the experience with my Enano gong and PFE stuck on that
The shorter wide bore one fitted too lose but the problem is the size of the silicon ring
That seams to be thinner on the wide bore but little to tight when I switched the rings
But definitely doable specially if you have access to a more of those rings and then any 510 tip would fit
Got the thing on 7 and that is like hopper on 4 but still not the same
Hopper heat stream is extremely thick and uniformed while Enano can cool down after couple of continuous big hits .. Or like 4-5 people using it same time
disGRUNTled
Well-Known Member
GH came out to play tonight .Some nice Pineapple and The Pizza Show.
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
You can’t really damage it by using the fine pointed tweezers, tweezing it from opposite ends of the screen(to not damage sensors in the middle of the screen), and pulling up
Thanks, guys. I have both some dental tools as well as the pointy tweezers. It's tempting to try and take it off, but as you've said, Molten, if it ain't broke.... But good to know how it comes out, by levering it up. I guess it must be some kind of press-fit along the whole depth of the chamber. At first I thought there was a keyway or something that you'd have to find by turning it first. Good to know now.
GH came out to play tonight .Some nice Pineapple and The Pizza Show.
That glass.... May I ask what it is and where you got it? It's the perfect size, methinks.
disGRUNTled
Well-Known Member
Here ya go man, I love it with the GH relly good with every vape I used with it TBH.
https://dankgeek.com/products/grav-...utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=map&ref=yotpo_8
Morty
Well-Known Member
I've been eyeing this exact piece. Seems perfect for vapor w/ the 3 hole diffy. I'm guessing the flavor is better than the 14mm rig w/ black trim you use w/ the Flowerpot ? Love the avatar BTW. This, probably not so much.
disGRUNTled
Well-Known Member
Yeah MJ owned the Knicks I hated him and the Bulls with a fucking passion, but the worst dunk on Ewing from a Bull was by Pippen .....I've been eyeing this exact piece. Seems perfect for vapor w/ the 3 hole diffy. I'm guessing the flavor is better than the 14mm rig w/ black trim you use w/ the Flowerpot ? Love the avatar BTW. This, probably not so much.
So other than initial USB charger not working and no spare bats avaliable with shit battery life pretty much killed it out of home for me, but loved it at home. Got mighty and evo around the same time so it hasn't been a complete daily driver. Offically shit itself, light switch off mid draw and turning it back only gets a weak hit!
any idea? Would live to just fix it, can't be bothered shipping to the states if back to shop is an issue.
Also no real hot back end other than not working charger not previous issues
any idea? Would live to just fix it, can't be bothered shipping to the states if back to shop is an issue.
Also no real hot back end other than not working charger not previous issues
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
Thank yee!
You could try cleaning the back end threads and battery contacts as well as rotating the dial a bunch of times, that works sometime (for a while) in your type of situation
Hjalmark
Oldest boy alive
Fickedy fuck fuck
Really annoying that we need to send in a battery with it
So my hopper got stopped by USA customs but made it safely to them some days later
Now I know it's getting shipped back because I got a call FROM THE BLOODY CANADIAN CUSTOMS !!!
Sigh.. I hope I can convince them I dont need to send in also the litium ion battery next time it needs fixing
Anyone else here manage to send in hopper without battery?
Really annoying that we need to send in a battery with it
So my hopper got stopped by USA customs but made it safely to them some days later
Now I know it's getting shipped back because I got a call FROM THE BLOODY CANADIAN CUSTOMS !!!
Sigh.. I hope I can convince them I dont need to send in also the litium ion battery next time it needs fixing
Anyone else here manage to send in hopper without battery?
For anyone that hates having to send in your grasshopper to the US from Canada I have some good news. I was speaking with a Canadian vaporizer vendor and they said Hopper Labs is going to have a facility in Canada to handle Canadian warranty claims soon. I have no idea when this is happening but it sounded like it was pretty soon. I am personally holding off a little on getting a Hopper until I can send it in for warranty in Canada.
johnnyCanuck
Well-Known Member
I always thought this would make a lot of sense. I would’ve wagered there’s a shit tonne of potential cdn hopper owners out there that won’t buy because of the border/transport head aches. Probably increase the amount of units sold overall.