I do like those buttons a lot.. and they are flush with the ring around them, right? So the button is unlikely to be pushed accidentally when the LB is in a pocket?
The are flush rounded switches. They appear to be turned, versus stamped as far as the outer shell, especially the button. The seller stands behind this switch. It's also bit stiffer / heavier than the first switch change. It has a solid, smooth feel, and higher quality contacts / internal parts. Once the LB Elite is out, you'll be able to power it down without removing the battery. I do supply you with a few safety tabs that can be easily slipped between the battery and contact, as well as stored neatly in the compartment.I do like those buttons a lot.. and they are flush with the ring around them, right? So the button is unlikely to be pushed accidentally when the LB is in a pocket?
I wanted you to get at least one unit, but the homeless cherry had to be reassembled with the new, new switch, so it'll be shipping soon.V A P W O O D Shipment Notification #R66009*****
WOOHOO!!!!!
Patience is a virtue young grasshopper!
@Bravesst did you ship both units with this order?
me, me, me....I want a Timber for ChristmasI wanted you to get at least one unit, but the homeless cherry had to be reassembled with the new, new switch, so it'll be shipping soon.
So, tracking sent on 8 orders, 3 more to completely finalize the batch and move on to my numerous new projects.
This is how it's goin' down*
1. Take a real close look at the sketch outlining the work I'm gong to do for @Alan, putz around in the wood shop and figure out a plan on how to deliver exactly that. Manufacture some sample parts.
2. Unbox DNC75C chip and all accessories. Get a feel of how it all goes together. Rough sketch the final product. Build one or two prototypes, order enough for 10 units.
3. Build / ship batch 8
4. Take a close look at Timber sketch, formulate a plan, possibly build Timber prototype, but main focus at this time is the Elite
5. Build / ship batch 9, including the first LB Elite units
6. Build / ship batch 10, including first Timber prototypes
During all six steps, the production of LB Classics will continue
This is the order of how I'm going to proceed. I'd like to think I can get this done this year. Who doesn't want a Timber for Christmas? But with my new motto of *under promise, over deliver*, my GOAL is to get the Elites in full production for Christmas, as well as having a decent stock of Classics available.
I'm very happy with my new beaded walnut DD. This unit assembled itself. The fit was crisp, clean, tight. This entire batch has been pretty much like that. Going forward, I have tremendous confidence in ALL of my parts, as well as the assembly process, and feel this reliability will impact Vapwood in a very positive way, giving me more time to develop this technology even further.
Each stem packing should be preceded by a vigorous screen cleaning or even better, swapping out a brand new screen. At least that's how its been for me.
My only true negative right now after a good week plus of using LB is the battery situation, which I am not sure what to think until I get some replacement batteries from IMR.
The are flush rounded switches. They appear to be turned, versus stamped as far as the outer shell, especially the button. The seller stands behind this switch. It's also bit stiffer / heavier than the first switch change. It has a solid, smooth feel, and higher quality contacts / internal parts. Once the LB Elite is out, you'll be able to power it down without removing the battery. I do supply you with a few safety tabs that can be easily slipped between the battery and contact, as well as stored neatly in the compartment.
This is the order of how I'm going to proceed. I'd like to think I can get this done this year. Who doesn't want a Timber for Christmas? But with my new motto of *under promise, over deliver*, my GOAL is to get the Elites in full production for Christmas, as well as having a decent stock of Classics available.
This is how it's goin' down*
1. Take a real close look at the sketch outlining the work I'm gong to do for @Alan, putz around in the wood shop and figure out a plan on how to deliver exactly that. Manufacture some sample parts.
2. Unbox DNC75C chip and all accessories. Get a feel of how it all goes together. Rough sketch the final product. Build one or two prototypes, order enough for 10 units.
I know squat about these batteries but have been reading along this thread since the beginning. I am noticing that my batteries are drained to the point of not heating the coil anymore after just one or two stems. I then put the battery on the charger and I am getting a reading of around 3.90 not the 3.70 or 3.55 that others have mentioned
I am using the Nitecore D4 charger and the bar graph shows either just one or two bars away from full charge, which to me I am thinking these batteries should still have plenty of juice left to get the coil hot enough to produce vapor.
Each stem packing should be preceded by a vigorous screen cleaning or even better, swapping out a brand new screen. At least that's how its been for me.
The effects of the LB are amazing as just a few hits gets the job done
the LB has really set the bar as far as its effects and in the end, that's what I care about most.
@P.A.M. I don't 'get' two stems per battery, I use a battery for two stems and then swap out. Not because there's no juice, but because I find the performance is better with a fresh batt. It's just easier for me to get what I want that way.
EDIT: But I've gotten two bad switches in my two previous LB's so I'm not sure what it'll be like when I have one of the the 7b batch with the new switch and the aluminum foil lining. I'm guessing I'll have a new learning curve.
. could be you who prefer the heat blast and consistency like i presume is reason @beyond6strings switches every 2 stems (not becuase it doesnt produce it)
Yes, it's a new LB, and it's easier to operate. Not that combustion isn't possible, but the feedback seems to be improved with the foil, or maybe it's the more even heat that prevents any one area of the load to get a bit hotter / harsher, but somehow hotter, smoother, easier to use.
The new switch is like bit like overdrive for me. Better mileage, but also faster, keeps the engine from working so hard. I may be taking batteries a little further down without even meaning to. Now I have to keep track of how many stems. Problem is, by the time I get through 2 or 3, I forget or lose count. Maybe if I preload 8 stems, and count down - sounds like way too much work.
I'm about to swap batteries, and I'm going to try and count stems, but don't get your hopes up, I'm real liable to forget under the current circumstances - this is a true catch 22.
Wet herb is not a friend of any vape, as it makes the vape work harder, and also adds, what I would think, steam into the draw. Dry / break up or grind for LB to really excel.
For the record, I was pulling on LB with a 3.6 cell last night, getting good results. That's with all the recent changes.
@RushVaporTrails I have a bunch of batteries, and I prefer to run my LB hot with a very fresh batt. I typically only do two stems on one battery. I have everything worked out technique-wise to work with a fresh batt. I do think you'll see marked improvement when you get new batts.
I think the screen situation can vary depending on their region. I live in Eastern MA and the humidity has been stifling, and my screens get gummed up faster. And I have really good flower right now and that can have an affect as well. I've been taking the screens out and blasting them with a torch to clean them off, and it works like a charm. Just hold it in a pair of pliers and flame it for 5-10 seconds. Clean as new.
Grind, dry herb (or not) and tamp are also important variables. I use dry herb, medium coarse grind, with a leveling tamp to create a 'disc' and it's very even extraction-typically I'm stirring after 3-4 pulls and get another 2 before I call it quits. Other than my vapcaps, I don't try to get real dark ABV with my vapes. I get plenty of good extraction without going that hard.
.
You should definitely get more then one or two stems (or sessions) from a freshly charged battery.
Does your charger display in % or in bar graphs only? do you have voltage metre, are you sure battery is at 3.90 or judging by number of bars on charger? A battery with 3.90V juice still is enough to power my LB for a good 3 sessions if not more. Yes hits tend to become longer under 3.80-3.90 but a battery cell with even just 3.80 would still generate plenty of Heat for the Coil to produce Vapor. i accidentally milked one to 3.50 the other day and it was still making Vapor.
@RushVaporTrails
I'm no battery expert, but what I've learned on FC from many knowledgeable members is no memory on Li Ion batteries. There are things you need to do. Don't use past 3.5 or so, or if it's not making vapor, stop pushing it. Immediately remove from the charger when fully charged. Do not store in a hot car. Always store safely in case. Do not use if damaged. Buy from reputable dealer. Long term storage should be about 3.56 (how they arrive from IMR). And @Alan assures me that even if your charger shows XXX, it could be an old worn out cell, and not live up to that.
Another great point, brand new screen. I only change screens if I have to. I do no clean out stem much, just mostly with a dowel. I want my screen to stick, tight. You can clean out the entire tube as much as you'd like, just leave the bowl with some resin in it.
A new screen doesn't provide any resistance to help *hover the heat* in the stem. Hemp fiber really helps out with a brand spanking new screen. Once the screen gets a little use, things even out. Another option, albeit a bit trickier, is to load / tamp a bit tighter when you have a super clean screen, allow the herb to provide its own resistance. Now this is all based on the slow draw technique, which I love. Sometimes it'll take a bowl or two to get the screen optimal.
Thing is this, once I get the optimal setting, my screen will stay pretty clean for a while. The key here is dry ABV, not gummy. Eventually things will gum up, maybe a day or two, but sometimes I can go days and the dryness acts as a self cleaner, making it easy to separate the screen from the hardened resins. I'm sure this has something to do with the strain, as well as my prep.
So i hope the Professor doesn't scold the student here at LB 101 class, but I have probably been breaking the cardinal rule that @Bravesst has stressed many many times on these pages.
I have not been drying out my herb, at least not to the extent that @Bravesst does by putting the material near a lamp or bulb to help dry it out.
Even without drying like this, i am still getting great vapor, especially on the early draws, but wondering if the non dried out herb and possibly a little moisture from me is causing some of my previous issues with failing vapor midway thru a stem. As said, I am going to start from scratch and see if i can get some consistent results with being a little more aware of everything.
I am sure many would agere, I bet strain has a lot to do with extraction as well as moisture/dryness of the herb itself
Hmm. Maybe there's something wrong with mine after all. Mine is like a Milaana on Xanax.It's like a Milaana on Octane!