I guess I have an old model : I v been trying to untightening it with full force but it doesn't move at all...
FlashVAPE
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
I guess I have an old model : I v been trying to untightening it with full force but it doesn't move at all...
Sorry to hear that. What are the last four digits of your serial number? The tapping trick works to loosen as well as tighten. I usually tap with the handle of one of my screwdrivers, in case you or anyone isn't sure what to use.
Thanks Pak, I could have got the MFLB but your response tells me I made the right decision. Essentially I wanted an MFLB type device but not an MFLB for various reasons.
Okay been using it most of this week and I am now a master, big clouds, no combustion dont think ill even need the pa anymore hahaha 
definately cant hold the button for more than 3-4 seconds on stage 2 but thats a good thing for power conservation and as long as i have the right button pulsing frequency everything is amazing!
definately cant hold the button for more than 3-4 seconds on stage 2 but thats a good thing for power conservation and as long as i have the right button pulsing frequency everything is amazing!
juanavape
Well-Known Member
Hey I had one of those "AHA" moments last week. As you may recall I was having trouble with my stuff combusting too easily but after my last cleaning I noticed it was running much cooler and thought I had wrecked another heater element but on closer inspection I realized that the (tabbed) screen had been inserted with a slight bubble/dome/concave pointing upwards. I took it out and worked it a bit and re-installed it as flat as possible with a slight dish/dome curving downward if anything. Now it works perfectly just like it should. I think before when I was having "too hot" troubles it was probably inserted dish down but too much so. The difference seems to only be about a 1/64th of an inch or less but it makes a real difference. I probably would have clued in sooner but my poor old tired eyes just aren't what they used to be and I never noticed it before..... Problem solved.
My PA that arrived it doesnt seem to work, it doesnt even screw into the bottom of the flashvape properly - the threading on the bottom connector looks different from the normal one. But I dont hear anything loose so I assume that that the inner battery connector thing is touching the contacts. The voltage is correct (220)
Screen issues have started, attempted opening it, huge blister but got some rubber gloves to try when it heals.
Any thoughts? I feel like bad luck McGee at the moment.
Screen issues have started, attempted opening it, huge blister but got some rubber gloves to try when it heals.
Any thoughts? I feel like bad luck McGee at the moment.
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sounds like you got one of the 1st FV and it has bin thread locked so you wont get it open by hand
if so you would have to ask FV for a different bases thing to screw on to your FV
if you have screen probs you may have to send it in to get it open or someone hear can let you no how to open it up
if so you would have to ask FV for a different bases thing to screw on to your FV
if you have screen probs you may have to send it in to get it open or someone hear can let you no how to open it up
Vitolo
Vaporist
FlashVAPE will get you there fast.
Little loads are fine, but FV can handle the motherload!
FVS2 + PA + .3 g = a room so cloudy I had to turn on the fan to read!
Royal Kush (that's right an entire 1/3 of a gram!) went so very well in Stage 2 mode.
Such rich thick flavor and large surface of air flow for this convective treat.
My compliments on this day to FlashVAPE for reminding me that while folks will say
"less is more"... some days.. like today tell me "more is more".
Little loads are fine, but FV can handle the motherload!
FVS2 + PA + .3 g = a room so cloudy I had to turn on the fan to read!
Royal Kush (that's right an entire 1/3 of a gram!) went so very well in Stage 2 mode.
Such rich thick flavor and large surface of air flow for this convective treat.
My compliments on this day to FlashVAPE for reminding me that while folks will say
"less is more"... some days.. like today tell me "more is more".
My Mistake, turns out the PA is working ! lucky i have an additional unit on its way tommorow to ensure that I can take advantage of the PA
So this version 1 of the flashvape, is its integrity compromized when unscrewed ?
Not any more than when you unscrew the ones that don't have Locktite. It's just a lot harder to get it open. In both cases you have to be really careful not to get a kink in the heater connecting rods, or rough them up in a way that would cause an uneven contact with the screen. Lift them gently and only enough to slide the old screen out and the new one into place. Make sure you get them completely flat when you press them back into, and tighten the bezel as much as possible when you screw it back on. After hand-tightening, use something like a small rubber mallet or a screwdriver handle to tap all around the perimeter of the bezel, then tighten again. Repeat until tapping doesn't yield any more slack.
Once the head is back together I always put in a fresh battery, take it into a dark room, and press the button to observe how the screen heats up. If you get sparking or bright spots near the contact rods, you will have to re-open it and adjust—and hope that you haven't already put a hole in your new heater screen. This is why I recommend not lifting those contact rods unless absolutely necessary.
The good news is that most people will probably never have to do this.
Thanks Pak, any tips on what tools to use to get it open if its sealed?
The bad news for me is that I think my retailer has a bad batch, which they have never renewed nor plan on renewing - Hence why the heater screens seem to die early.
Also the wrong threading on the pa is causing the threading on the flashvape to get destroyed as well as the PA base connector. It stops working mid use and has to be rescrewed to work again, this is not easy as its hard to get it into a working mode without heaps of messing around. Flashvape said it was okay that the threading was different - I think everyone thinks im crazy when all I want is this experience of never having to change a heater screen as you say, or the ability to easily change it, or the ability to use the PA - I am hoping that in time this is all sorted out but maybe I've gambled a bit too much on it.
The bad news for me is that I think my retailer has a bad batch, which they have never renewed nor plan on renewing - Hence why the heater screens seem to die early.
Also the wrong threading on the pa is causing the threading on the flashvape to get destroyed as well as the PA base connector. It stops working mid use and has to be rescrewed to work again, this is not easy as its hard to get it into a working mode without heaps of messing around. Flashvape said it was okay that the threading was different - I think everyone thinks im crazy when all I want is this experience of never having to change a heater screen as you say, or the ability to easily change it, or the ability to use the PA - I am hoping that in time this is all sorted out but maybe I've gambled a bit too much on it.
@FlashVAPE said it was okay that the threading was different? Wow, that doesn't sound right. Are you sure you understood correctly?
When I opened my early model I used rubber bands to protect the FV and clamped the body with vise grips and used slip joint pliers to grip the bezel.
Okay to be clear this was their exact quote from the email:
"Hi there! no, dont worry about the bottom not being flush, as it should not affect operation in any way."
I had advised them in previous emails that the threading was different, and that i finally got the thread somewhat connected but its not flush.
Also to add It does affect operation as it is less likely to stand up straight, and goes off during use and destroys the threading - still awaiting a response in terms of my response.
"Hi there! no, dont worry about the bottom not being flush, as it should not affect operation in any way."
I had advised them in previous emails that the threading was different, and that i finally got the thread somewhat connected but its not flush.
Also to add It does affect operation as it is less likely to stand up straight, and goes off during use and destroys the threading - still awaiting a response in terms of my response.
I think there's been a misunderstanding. I'd stop using the PA and get in touch with @FlashVAPE right away.
They didn't respond through email today, their line is always an answering machine whether i call them within business hours or not. All i can do is keep trying i suppose, I even told them if I was being too difficult that I would even accept hte option of refunding my 2 flashvapes, 2 s2 kits and PA.
The last 4 digit are : 0253
I did not send it back as yet but lately I m not using it, I v written to the customer service but no reply so far : I guess my mail went directly into their spam box as has happened before..I ll try again , usually they reply pretty fast...
Thanks any way...luckily I have a VG which is a good substitute
cheers
The last 4 digit are : 0253
I did not send it back as yet but lately I m not using it, I v written to the customer service but no reply so far : I guess my mail went directly into their spam box as has happened before..I ll try again , usually they reply pretty fast...
Thanks any way...luckily I have a VG which is a good substitute
cheers
That's a pretty early serial number. I don't know when FlashVAPE stopped using Locktite but I'd bet that one was sealed.
GreenGenes
Doobie Snacks?
Stupid me has put the battery the opposite way into the charger for approximately 5h 
Do you think it's dead now?
Do you think it's dead now?
Lizard King
Well-Known Member
Stupid me has put the battery the opposite way into the charger for approximately 5h
Do you think it's dead now?
The one time I did that for a few hours, the battery died.
GreenGenes
Doobie Snacks?
So it's dead for good eh? I knew I should've marked + and - with a sticker on the charger.
Lizard King
Well-Known Member
I periodically tried to revive it, but without luck....
Stupid me has put the battery the opposite way into the charger for approximately 5h
Do you think it's dead now?
I did that once and lost the battery.
Some chargers detect reversed polarity and shut down. There's no reason not to try charging it right way round, but I assume by your post that this battery no longer works.
ScottyT Lefty
Active Member
Hello friends. Been enjoying the Flashvape a great deal this past yr. I'm a full blast converted vape guy now. What a weapon this beauty is.
Question: It's time for replacement parts order and I'm wondering when I'll know if its time to replace the original heating screen? Never done this but I'm about to put in a order for new batteries, screens etc and I noticed the replacement heating screen is a pretty good price and was going to add it to my order. Thing is I'm a little nervous to pull it apart to replace the screen and I'm not really even sure if its necessary. The unit seems to be running smooth. Any feedback always greatly appreciated.
Question: It's time for replacement parts order and I'm wondering when I'll know if its time to replace the original heating screen? Never done this but I'm about to put in a order for new batteries, screens etc and I noticed the replacement heating screen is a pretty good price and was going to add it to my order. Thing is I'm a little nervous to pull it apart to replace the screen and I'm not really even sure if its necessary. The unit seems to be running smooth. Any feedback always greatly appreciated.
You should get one because you don't know when you'll need it.
Having said that, do not replace the heating screen unless you are sure you have to. I recommend not disassembling the FV head at all unless you have no other choice. If yours is still running fine, leave it alone. Consider replacing the heater screen only if it starts to run cooler. If that happens, remove the tabbed screen (and spacer if you use S2), take it into a dark room, and heat up the screen with a fresh battery. Bright spots at the edges indicate possible holes in the screen under the copper rods, and eventually you will need a replacement.