FlashVAPE

[juanavape]

Help...... I need a 3.4 or 3.5 volt battery

So is anybody else experiencing this situation. My FV device works wonderfully with the power adapter but now it's summertime and I want to use it more as a portable unit. With the 3.2 batteries (Stage 2 setup and a whip attached) it works but the results are kinda thin and wispy, it also gets pretty hot near the end of a session and sometimes requires a second battery to finish the load. When I use the 3.7 volts I sometimes reach combustion EVEN when I begin to draw at the same time or BEFORE I push the button. So my question is this : Does anybody make such a thing as a battery for me ? Or maybe somebody knows a way to "tame" my 3.7s ?

Thanx :>/

 

[pakalolo]

Help...... I need a 3.4 or 3.5 volt battery

So is anybody else experiencing this situation. My FV device works wonderfully with the power adapter but now it's summertime and I want to use it more as a portable unit. With the 3.2 batteries (Stage 2 setup and a whip attached) it works but the results are kinda thin and wispy, it also gets pretty hot near the end of a session and sometimes requires a second battery to finish the load. When I use the 3.7 volts I sometimes reach combustion EVEN when I begin to draw at the same time or BEFORE I push the button. So my question is this : Does anybody make such a thing as a battery for me ? Or maybe somebody knows a way to "tame" my 3.7s ?

Thanx :>/

What setting works for you with the PA, and are you using the S2 adapter at that setting? The answers will help me judge just how hot your FV runs.

There are only two voltages (both nominal) for 18650 batteries: 3.2 (Stage 1) and 3.7 (Stage 2). S1 batteries aren't powerful enough to work with the S2 adapter, as you've discovered. S2 batteries shouldn't reach combustion as quickly as you describe if the adapter is in place. What you describe is what I would expect if you used the 3.7V batteries without the S2 adapter.

There's nothing that can make the 3.2V batteries work with the S2 adapter. You didn't say what happens when you do that. In the meantime, you can try adding a second tabbed screen with the 3.7V batteries to stop it reaching combustion so quickly. I haven't tried this, but it should work.

 

[juanavape]

What setting works for you with the PA, and are you using the S2 adapter at that setting? The answers will help me judge just how hot your FV runs.

There are only two voltages (both nominal) for 18650 batteries: 3.2 (Stage 1) and 3.7 (Stage 2). S1 batteries aren't powerful enough to work with the S2 adapter, as you've discovered. S2 batteries shouldn't reach combustion as quickly as you describe if the adapter is in place. What you describe is what I would expect if you used the 3.7V batteries without the S2 adapter.

There's nothing that can make the 3.2V batteries work with the S2 adapter. You didn't say what happens when you do that. In the meantime, you can try adding a second tabbed screen with the 3.7V batteries to stop it reaching combustion so quickly. I haven't tried this, but it should work.

I've been running the PA at about 8.2 ish. I don't look for massive thick vapor, medium thickness is good for me usually. All use has been with the S2 spacer since I got it. The 3.2 do "sort of work" because I'd rather have my vapor a bit thin than combustion with the 3.7s. The combustion is more of a problem once things get going, it's usually after the 2nd or 3rd hit that I gotta start being extra cautious. Adding a second screen (below the ceramic piece or above ?) is a really good idea and I shall try that in the next day or 2, thanx for that :>)

 

[pakalolo]

I've been running the PA at about 8.2 ish. I don't look for massive thick vapor, medium thickness is good for me usually. All use has been with the S2 spacer since I got it. The 3.2 do "sort of work" because I'd rather have my vapor a bit thin than combustion with the 3.7s. The combustion is more of a problem once things get going, it's usually after the 2nd or 3rd hit that I gotta start being extra cautious. Adding a second screen (below the ceramic piece or above ?) is a really good idea and I shall try that in the next day or 2, thanx for that :>)

I've never added a second tabbed screen, but my guess is that top or bottom, it won't matter. You might find it worth taking out the S2 spacer when you're using the 3.2V batteries. There's no rules, try stuff and see what works for you. Let us know how it works out.

 

[jackass20]

Hello all, have had my FV for about 4 days. Starting to get the hang of it, really enjoying the density it provides.

few questions, is it normal for the unit to get really hot? It gets this hot close to when the battery is fully depleted. I would say the body gets over 50 degrees.

A single battery on a full charge last just about 1 bowl, is this also normal? Not a huge problem since i have ordered 4 NCR18650PF's to go with it. Any idea of whether these batteries need to be charged in lifepo4 mode?

I have just ordered the PA, does the temperature control on this provide the capabilities of a temperature controlled vape?

Thanks for taking the time.

 

[juanavape]

Hello all, have had my FV for about 4 days. Starting to get the hang of it, really enjoying the density it provides.

few questions, is it normal for the unit to get really hot? It gets this hot close to when the battery is fully depleted. I would say the body gets over 50 degrees.

A single battery on a full charge last just about 1 bowl, is this also normal? Not a huge problem since i have ordered 4 NCR18650PF's to go with it. Any idea of whether these batteries need to be charged in lifepo4 mode?

I have just ordered the PA, does the temperature control on this provide the capabilities of a temperature controlled vape?

Thanks for taking the time.

Welcome to the FC FV thread.

4 days in and enjoying it sounds good but it only gets better :>)

To try and answer your questions I'm assuming that you are using it WITHOUT the Stage 2 ceramic insert/spacer and WITH the 3.2 volt batteries ?

The unit can get pretty hot especially with the 3.2 volts batteries, if you move up to the stage 2 option it still gets hot but less so with the 3.7 or the PA. And yes if you fill it up to the max one (3.2) battery is about right to cook the load give or take a few hoots.

I'm not sure about charging batteries other than the stock ones but somebody else here will probably answer that for you.

The PA allows you to dial in a wide range of temperatures to suit your needs and vaporize various strains/concentrates. I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "the capabilities of a temperature controlled vape?" There's no actual temperature gauge, it's a 1 - 10 dial.

I hope this helped.

Happy Vaping.

 

[pakalolo]

Hello all, have had my FV for about 4 days. Starting to get the hang of it, really enjoying the density it provides.

few questions, is it normal for the unit to get really hot? It gets this hot close to when the battery is fully depleted. I would say the body gets over 50 degrees.

A single battery on a full charge last just about 1 bowl, is this also normal? Not a huge problem since i have ordered 4 NCR18650PF's to go with it. Any idea of whether these batteries need to be charged in lifepo4 mode?

I have just ordered the PA, does the temperature control on this provide the capabilities of a temperature controlled vape?

Thanks for taking the time.

Those batteries are 3.7V so they are not LiFePO4, which are 3.2V batteries. Make sure you use the right charger. Charging Li-ion batteries in the wrong charger can be dangerous. The good news is that they are great batteries for the FV in Stage 2 mode. If you use them without the S2 spacer, you'll probably get combustion. It can be done but it requires a lot of technique.

The FV will get warm near the top if you hit it frequently regardless of which mode you use. None of mine have ever gotten hot enough to concern me, and certainly not too hot to handle.

Making a battery last for more than one bowl depends on how much you load and how dark you take your ABV. I use small (.07g) loads and usually wind up with dark brown but not black ABV. I can get two bowls done this way but I almost always swap out batteries for every load.

The PA allows consistent temperatures but obviously doesn't have a temperature display. I find that 8 is the sweet spot for me. I can keep the button pressed as long as I want without risking combustion. I rarely go above that. I avoid 10 because my experience leads me to believe that it might not be good for the health of the heater screen. This is speculation based on using my Gun Metal FV, which started to run cool so I needed the extra heat. It's not clear whether the heater screen was the cause of it cooling off (although that seems likely) but I am sure that increasing the power to the screen hastened its failure. Fortunately it is possible for the user to replace the heater screen, but it's a procedure best avoided.

 

[jackass20]

Thanks guys I was on 3.7, waiting on some replacement 3.2's as the ones that came with my unit were not functioning.

Sadly my flashvape started showing the same problems as YeeeBuddy's,

I have emailed the retailer to see if i can get a replacement. I'm excited about the PA and will start off at 8 when it arrives provided I have my flashvape sorted by then

 

[pakalolo]

Thanks guys I was on 3.7, waiting on some replacement 3.2's as the ones that came with my unit were not functioning.

Sadly my flashvape started showing the same problems as YeeeBuddy's,

I have emailed the retailer to see if i can get a replacement. I'm excited about the PA and will start off at 8 when it arrives provided I have my flashvape sorted by then

That is a heater screen failure. You can repair that yourself if you're careful and have the replacement screen.

I forgot to mention that 8 is the setting when using the S2 spacer. Without it, I'd start at 6. The vapour at those settings is medium, not thick. Depending on how much the load has already been vaped, it can take anywhere from 5 to 10 seconds before starting to produce.

 

[juanavape]

Thanks guys I was on 3.7, waiting on some replacement 3.2's as the ones that came with my unit were not functioning.

Sadly my flashvape started showing the same problems as YeeeBuddy's,

I have emailed the retailer to see if i can get a replacement. I'm excited about the PA and will start off at 8 when it arrives provided I have my flashvape sorted by then

Heating screen failure after only owning it for what 5 or 6 days... hhhmmmm mine did the same thing but it took that many months instead of days. I sent mine back and it was replaced but next time (knowing what I know now, thanks to Pakalolo/FlashVAPE), I would try a bit harder to open it up myself and repair it.

 

[Pipes]

Heating screen failure after only owning it for what 5 or 6 days... hhhmmmm mine did the same thing but it took that many months instead of days. I sent mine back and it was replaced but next time (knowing what I know now, thanks to Pakalolo/FlashVAPE), I would try a bit harder to open it up myself and repair it.

IMO, these failures are from the heater screen not being under enough pressure from the screw down top. Once the arcing starts, it's time to stop immediately and tighten things up. If arcing goes for too many "seconds" even, the heater will be beyond help.
Pak has mentioned a great way to ensure it is tight. Use a mallet or wooden handle, from screw driver, to tap around this connection. Doing so should gain you some extra movement in tightening it down.
I think this should be adhered to as a periodic preventative maintenance procedure.

If like this, likely too late.

 

[jackass20]

Thanks Pakolo, I tried opening it just to have a look what was going on the inside but no dice - also got a friend to try we couldnt do it, maybe I need some tools or something?

Thanks Juanavape - I would have had to order replacement screen and wait for it, once arrived the unit would likely be outside of its DOA period. In all cases the unit should not be performing like that after a few days of use. If all goes well with the next unit I will definitely do the replacement myself when the time arises, but might need some tips on getting the unit open.

Thanks pipes, do you think its possible the brand new unit came out of the box loose and or loosened after a few days of use?

 

[Pipes]

Thanks pipes, do you think its possible the brand new unit came out of the box loose and or loosened after a few days of use?

You're welcome and that's exactly what I was thinking. We need to keep em tight. The damage happens very fast.

 

[pakalolo]

Thanks Pakolo, I tried opening it just to have a look what was going on the inside but no dice - also got a friend to try we couldnt do it, maybe I need some tools or something?

Thanks Juanavape - I would have had to order replacement screen and wait for it, once arrived the unit would likely be outside of its DOA period. In all cases the unit should not be performing like that after a few days of use. If all goes well with the next unit I will definitely do the replacement myself when the time arises, but might need some tips on getting the unit open.

Thanks pipes, do you think its possible the brand new unit came out of the box loose and or loosened after a few days of use?

While @Pipes has a good theory, the fact that you can't unscrew the bezel makes me doubt that this is the problem. Early units were sealed with Locktite and you need tools to unscrew it. Since yours is new, I doubt it is sealed. Does it have a small hex bolt in the back opposite the button? If so, you should be able to unscrew the bezel by hand, you just need a strong grip.

If you don't have a replacement screen then I wouldn't advise unscrewing the bezel. Wait for advice from @FlashVAPE. If the problem is actually a flawed connecting rod (which is my theory now) then the repair is more complicated and might require a replacement unit.

 

[jackass20]

Thanks Pak, there wasn't a hex bolt in the back opposite button from what I can recall. Now that its been sent back to the retailer I am unable to check, I will let you know whether the new one I receive has this or not.

 

[pakalolo]

Thanks Pak, there wasn't a hex bolt in the back opposite button from what I can recall. Now that its been sent back to the retailer I am unable to check, I will let you know whether the new one I receive has this or not.

The new one will have it. The bolt is intended to keep the ceramic heater bowl in position when the bezel has been removed. I asked because that's a way to know if the unit is recent and therefor not sealed with Locktite.

 

[jackass20]

Thanks Pak, I'm glad there is an easy way to determine whether it is a new unit. Cant wait to be back on the flashvape wagon.

 

[jackass20]

Hi Guys

My replacement unit came in today,

http://postimg.org/image/l643tazbr/

No hex on the back of the button I haven't used the unit yet,

Does this mean I'm going to have a hell of a time when I have to replace the screen? I'd really like to be self dependent but not if opening it up comprimises the unit.

 

[pakalolo]

Hi Guys

My replacement unit came in today,

http://postimg.org/image/l643tazbr/

No hex on the back of the button I haven't used the unit yet,

Does this mean I'm going to have a hell of a time when I have to replace the screen? I'd really like to be self dependent but not if opening it up comprimises the unit.

Probably not. The bolt would have confirmed it was the latest, but its absence doesn't mean yours is one of the sealed ones. It would be a shocker if it were, since they stopped using Locktite fairly soon after they came on the market. A need for screen replacement has a low probability anyway. I wouldn't worry too much.

 

[jackass20]

Thanks Pak

Really appreciate your help. Used it and this thing gets to work very quickly, quicker than the original unit, combusted twice infact, should be good now that I know its upper limits .

Got the black replaced with the silver, its amazing the difference it makes in terms of visibility from the top.

Thanks all for your time.

 

[pakalolo]

Thanks Pak

Really appreciate your help. Used it and this thing gets to work very quickly, quicker than the original unit, combusted twice infact, should be good now that I know its upper limits .

Got the black replaced with the silver, its amazing the difference it makes in terms of visibility from the top.

Thanks all for your time.

Now that you mention it, you're right! I hardly ever look for the vapour although I know many do. The Silver Bullet reflects light inside the cap but the Black Beauty (my name, I'm not sure what @FlashVAPE calls the black ones) absorbs it.

I suspect your original screen always had a microhole or two and they just got larger with repeated heating. You might not have ever had a 100% functioning FV. Fortunately, of all the devices I've owned the FVs are the easiest to clean up after combustion. Usually I just dump, dry brush any ash off the screens, and go. Same as changing loads, in other words.

 

[jackass20]

It's definately reflecting more light! Lol Ive noticed on this forum that theres a bit of a divide between cloudy and non cloudy.

Bloody micro holes ! Haha, hoping my PA arrives soon, at least while the retailer still has flashvapes on discount as if all goes well I might order a second unit.

Sorry to bother you will all the questions pak, but I was curious, since you have MFLB's and FV's, could you possibly give me some examples of situations where you would use one over the other, for any reasons other than size difference?

 

[pakalolo]

It's definately reflecting more light! Lol Ive noticed on this forum that theres a bit of a divide between cloudy and non cloudy.

Bloody micro holes ! Haha, hoping my PA arrives soon, at least while the retailer still has flashvapes on discount as if all goes well I might order a second unit.

Sorry to bother you will all the questions pak, but I was curious, since you have MFLB's and FV's, could you possibly give me some examples of situations where you would use one over the other, for any reasons other than size difference?

Please don't apologize for asking questions. I'm happy to talk about the FV, it is my preferred vapourizer.

I have one of my LBs and one of my FVs hooked up to PAs at my desk. I hardly ever reach for the LB anymore unless I'm going out. When I do it's usually for testing or comparison, but not always. I rarely use up the load when I'm out, so I leave it loaded when I come home and I'll hit it every once in a while just for a change. (Thanks for reminding me, the LB hit I just took was really nice, Holy Grail I think.) I never take the FVs out, but I do carry one of them down to watch TV.

 

[cat420]

My FV with the s2 kit is not feeling well : I have to keep on red for 30 seconds before seeing a tiny cloud...I have it since one year and I must say it was performing much better with the S1 battery.
As soon as I v changed to S2 the performances were really worse..and yes I am using the right batteries for the S2.
I m planing to send it back for repair ...let's see if customer service will reply soon enough...

 

[pakalolo]

My FV with the s2 kit is not feeling well : I have to keep on red for 30 seconds before seeing a tiny cloud...I have it since one year and I must say it was performing much better with the S1 battery.
As soon as I v changed to S2 the performances were really worse..and yes I am using the right batteries for the S2.
I m planing to send it back for repair ...let's see if customer service will reply soon enough...

If you haven't already sent it back, please try tightening the bezel holding the ceramic heater in place. Hand tighten it, then use a wooden block or rubber mallet to tap lightly all around the circumference, then tighten again. Use a rubber glove or something that will give you a firm grip. I used this method to cure cooling in one of my FVs just yesterday.