The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[stickstones]

I've also done another mod today that definetly changed my toy; a prototype of a sleeve with adjustable airflow. So simple, cheap and amazing, seems to give me the instant and constant result I was dreaming. Seems too nice to be real... so I need to do more tests... need more weed... need more tests... need more...

Right on! This is open source, so give it up! Pics?

 

[ander]

Need a couple of hour to get home guys... Sure I share! It's one of the rule of the Project, no?


I don't have what I need these days so it's really raw...

The passing hole (14mm) is little crooked also... but the concept is clear. The cork is very interesting, very stable (and a cheap emergency solution!). Can be made with other wood obviously, and in two pieces..? Maybe vapor is little hotter... but I like the higher draw resistance...

 

[natural farmer]

I don't have what I need these days so it's really raw...

The passing hole (14mm) is little crooked also... but the concept is clear. The cork is very interesting, very stable (and a cheap emergency solution!). Can be made with other wood obviously, and in two pieces..? Maybe vapor is little hotter... but I like the higher draw resistance...

Can I like this more than once???

I love the idea bro!!! I would love it even without the airflow adjustment!

Questions! How did you drill the cork? What is that black thing on the upper part that holds the stem?

And on another matter... I don't know about you guys but I think the Eleaf Pico designers might have done some magic with the software cause it holds its temps a billion times better than the Cuboid either on myevic firmware or stock. Some DNA75 dna perhaps? Actually myevic is worst. It overshoots a lot unlike the stock firmware. With myevic the coil is pulsing so much. With Pico I can't notice any pulsing! I am talking no airflow of course. Might be that myevic overshoots to compensate better for the draw? I doubt the programmers had this application in mind though... I think Pico might have some trouble reading resistanse correctly on the other hand... It reads my Pipe's coils at .49Ω cold while the Cuboid reads them at .56Ω, much closer to all reported figures so far. Settings need to be completely different on Cuboid for the same results... Strange...

 

[ander]

As always, you are too kind. But since you are sometimes using it naked (if I remember well from your pics) it's a good safety solution for sure..!

How did you drill the cork?
What is that black thing on the upper part that holds the stem?

The cork can be drilled fairly regular with a good material and slow drilling (I made it by hand ). I used 7-10-13 and 14 mm (this last for refining) drills progressively.
My glass stem is definetly giving me problems and I'm thinking about knocking my neighbour and ask for a Solo stem, shit. Pipes wood one has perfect fit, airflow and so extraction. Back to the question, 14mm drill is ok for the SS sleeve, but a bit much for the upper part, 13 (13.5?) will be just ok I guess. So up there is simply a black O-ring (not there to hold the stem, but to avoid air suction from above) obtained from my old Pax2 WPA that is giving his parts (one slice after another) to the science...

Ah, there's the screen stuck inside the upper cork part obviously, but the great screen mod @marduk found (S&B capsules) will be simply perfect...

It overshoots a lot unlike the stock firmware. With myevic the coil is pulsing so much.

That's interesting... would like to try but after flashing with myevic, is possible to try the stock upgraded firmware without hassle..? Flash... Re-flash...

 

[natural farmer]

My glass stem is definetly giving me problems and I'm thinking about knocking my neighbour and ask for a Solo stem, shit.

Solo stem will work as well but is too tall for my liking... Mind you, I don't use the Arizer stem as is, although it works as well... I attach it to the OG stem's SS tube. This way the vapor hits the Arizer's glass screen first which traps most particles and cools down the vapor A LOT and then enters the main stem where it further cools down. This is how the magic happens. I would have saved myself from a lot of harshness if I though about this earlier... Who needs a bubbler??? Not me! And I prefer high temps!

That's interesting... would like to try but after flashing with myevic, is possible to try the stock upgraded firmware without hassle..? Flash... Re-flash...

Flash and reflash at will! No harm done! Until you brick it... Then we will know how much it can take!

EDIT: Thanks for the cork info! Will definitely experiment some!

 

[ander]

Right on! This is open source, so give it up! Pics?

Somewhat disappointed..?
Project Cork has just begun..! I'll be back.

 

[ander]

Micro Condenser..?

 

[fluffhead]

@ander I love your mods, how does the condenser change how the vape hits you?

I am loving the eraser/shitfucker combination. With the eraser I get amazing low to mid-temp sessions which is what I am looking for most of the day. With the shitfucker, I get what I need and I get it fast. Ironically, I think the sf has become my going out vape while the eraser is my stay at home. I definitely expected it to be the other way around.

Usually when I am out I want to get done quickly and the shitfucker does that amazingly well. I generally get one big cloud, then I rotate the basket screen 180 and get one more smaller cloud. There usually isn't much (if anything) after that. The only time there will be more draws is when I use it through water with kief. Now I just need my pico to get here so I don't have to switch back and forth on one mod.

Also, thanks for the conversation on watts everyone. It gives me another factor to consider as I try to dial in these vapes perfectly for my experience.

 

[ander]

how does the condenser change how the vape hits you?

Started testing today... the purpose is an easier reclaim but who knows... maybe a slightly better taste? Airflow somewhat reduced but nothing relevant

 

[natural farmer]

@ander I love your mods, how does the condenser change how the vape hits you?

I am loving the eraser/shitfucker combination. With the eraser I get amazing low to mid-temp sessions which is what I am looking for most of the day. With the shitfucker, I get what I need and I get it fast. Ironically, I think the sf has become my going out vape while the eraser is my stay at home. I definitely expected it to be the other way around.

Usually when I am out I want to get done quickly and the shitfucker does that amazingly well. I generally get one big cloud, then I rotate the basket screen 180 and get one more smaller cloud. There usually isn't much (if anything) after that. The only time there will be more draws is when I use it through water with kief. Now I just need my pico to get here so I don't have to switch back and forth on one mod.

Also, thanks for the conversation on watts everyone. It gives me another factor to consider as I try to dial in these vapes perfectly for my experience.

Do you mean that your Shitfucker runs hotter than Eraser with the same exact settings? And if it does why not take Eraser's temp a bit higher so you get those huge clouds on the road instead of risking breaking the SF?
Very glad you are enjoying both though! And you are going to love Pico...!

Can't wait to see what comes next @ander!!! Corks, glass condensers... You are fast! Glad to have you on this boat!

 

[fluffhead]

Do you mean that your Shitfucker runs hotter than Eraser with the same exact settings? And if it does why not take Eraser's temp a bit higher so you get those huge clouds on the road instead of risking breaking the SF?
Very glad you are enjoying both though! And you are going to love Pico...!

No, I wouldn't say it runs hotter, just faster. Because of the small opening of the ddave basket, it condenses the hit so it is done in one or two hits. I couldn't session with it if I tried. But with the same amount, even at higher temps, the eraser takes more time to get through the same load. As a result, function wins over form right now because quick hits are better for me when out than a longer session. Its not the clouds that I am looking for when I am out per se, it is how incredibly fast it gets through the material.

And I hope I love the pico since its your "fault" that I have one on the way. Then again, its your "fault" I got the eraser in the first place, and the vapcap, and the lotus...all of which I have loved. So your track record is good in my books!

Can't wait to see what comes next @ander!!! Corks, glass condensers... You are fast! Glad to have you on this boat!

Agreed!

 

[natural farmer]

No, I wouldn't say it runs hotter, just faster. Because of the small opening of the ddave basket, it condenses the hit so it is done in one or two hits. I couldn't session with it if I tried. But with the same amount, even at higher temps, the eraser takes more time to get through the same load. As a result, function wins over form right now because quick hits are better for me when out than a longer session. Its not the clouds that I am looking for when I am out per se, it is how incredibly fast it gets through the material.

And I hope I love the pico since its your "fault" that I have one on the way. Then again, its your "fault" I got the eraser in the first place, and the vapcap, and the lotus...all of which I have loved. So your track record is good in my books!


Agreed!

Sure... Blame poor old farmer for your strong VAS... Glad you loved them all buddy!

I think I see now, you are using the small baskets with SF, I wonder if they are smaller than the Milaana baskets I am using... Have you tried a basket with Eraser to compare? It might also have to do with glass absorbing heat slower so more is available to heat the incoming air ... I am sure I ll get a SF as well eventually. When I get that sweet Ti bong I have fallen in love with. SF would sure be better for bubbler/bong use...

 

[fluffhead]

I think I see now, you are using the small baskets with SF, I wonder if they are smaller than the Milaana baskets I am using... Have you tried a basket with Eraser to compare? It might also have to do with glass absorbing heat slower so more is available to heat the incoming air ... I am sure I ll get a SF as well eventually. When I get that sweet Ti bong I have fallen in love with. SF would sure be better for bubbler/bong use...

I am using the small baskets with the SF. Which baskets are you using with the milaana? If they are the 18mm ones like form pv, then those are much bigger than the ddave ones which are quite small. Think of the difference of the opening in an 18mm male vs a 14mm male. You might be right about the glass. On your suggestion, I will try the eraser with a basket and see how it goes. That would likely be the solution to my form vs function issue, thanks. That way the eraser can sit permanently on the pico while the sf will stay on the cuboid.

 

[natural farmer]

I am using the small baskets with the SF. Which baskets are you using with the milaana? If they are the 18mm ones like form pv, then those are much bigger than the ddave ones which are quite small. Think of the difference of the opening in an 18mm male vs a 14mm male. You might be right about the glass. On your suggestion, I will try the eraser with a basket and see how it goes. That would likely be the solution to my form vs function issue, thanks. That way the eraser can sit permanently on the pico while the sf will stay on the cuboid.

Right, right, it's 14mm those ones. I use the standard RBT baskets and they are 18mm indeed. Do the small ones fit in the SS bowl of the OG stem as well? I'd love to make my loads even smaller without having my basket half full. No flying herb this way!

 

[fluffhead]

Right, right, it's 14mm those ones. I use the standard RBT baskets and they are 18mm indeed. Do the small ones fit in the SS bowl of the OG stem as well? I'd love to make my loads even smaller without having my basket half full. No flying herb this way!

This is the kit that ordered, but I asked for two 14mm stems instead of the 18mm one. For the milaana you need the reducer, but for eraser/sf the 14mm stem with basket screen fits, but only fits the sf if the 14mm joint is 14/20 not 14/22. I will be trying your suggestion about the 14mm basket in the eraser and I will let you know how it goes. From that kit, the stems you get are good to go size wise and, in fact, are my main stem for the sf.

And yes, the @DDave stem is a great way to reduce loads without having the basket half full (or half empty for those pessimists out there). Great product and service from him.

Edit: I have now tried to use the 14mm stem and basket screen in the eraser. I'm not a fan of it. It wasn't as quick as with the sf and the eraser kept pulling out the screen as I would take the stem out.

 

[GetLeft]

Jeez this thread moves quick.

Got my eraser a little over a week ago, but only had around an hour to mess with it before things got in the way. I had bought a Pico mini and read that manual inside and out and couldn't figure out how to set the temp in TCR. Watts yes ohms yes but not temp. I'm missing a click or two somewhere. Haven't had time to mess with it since then but will give it a go again perhaps tomorrow. Any tips welcome for working temp in TCR with the pico.

 

[P.A.M.]

Very cool people. I shall emaducate myself abit with 34 pages of context , pm Pipes , and be on board sooner then later wishfully. Other then "box" needed , and original kit, is there people that supply their own kit or version like the Shitfucker ? Or is rhat accomplished from starter kit? Does one get starter kit and box , build around it then share with group ? Just want to know if i underdtand the concept right and what is needed or if anything added /different between now and original post...
Thanks everyone , I'm looking for a solid , performing portable unit, it seems like diy might be my best solution being I don't have much income. I do have some wood working skills , not turning wood on a lathe though..

 

[Andreaerdna]

Need a couple of hour to get home guys... Sure I share! It's one of the rule of the Project, no?


I don't have what I need these days so it's really raw...

The passing hole (14mm) is little crooked also... but the concept is clear. The cork is very interesting, very stable (and a cheap emergency solution!). Can be made with other wood obviously, and in two pieces..? Maybe vapor is little hotter... but I like the higher draw resistance...

Be aware, wine corks can be treated with a surface traitement for looks. Dunno what could happen to it when heated.

Also there are corks that are made out of cork particles glued together (not your one- it seems raw and untreated from picture)

 

[KeroZen]

Even the agglomerated ones should be food-safe. The plugs are in direct contact with the wine when the bottle is stored horizontally (as it should be for semi long-term storage in caves) But a cursory reading tells me that some models have disks joined to their ends, so it might be worth looking deeper into it.

Besides if I understand correctly it's only for a sleeve replacement? If we agree that silicone is safe for that application, we should be good with cork too I think, nope? I mean, it's barely in the vapor path.

 

[natural farmer]

I think I feel safe with cork...

Also, what is the OD of the cork? Don't have any handy at the moment to measure... Not a big drinker... It shouldn't be more than 23mm for some mods.

 

[Andreaerdna]

Even the agglomerated ones should be food-safe. The plugs are in direct contact with the wine when the bottle is stored horizontally (as it should be for semi long-term storage in caves) But a cursory reading tells me that some models have disks joined to their ends, so it might be worth looking deeper into it.

Besides if I understand correctly it's only for a sleeve replacement? If we agree that silicone is safe for that application, we should be good with cork too I think, nope? I mean, it's barely in the vapor path.

There are both types of reconstituited / agglomerated corks, one have two disks of natural cork at the ends the other does not.

They obviously are both food safe but not high temp safe, me think

@natural farmer I think most are around that thresold (I use 24mm wide) but there are smaller ones (for other applications than wine bottling)

 

[KeroZen]

It would be good to know. Actually I seriously considered using cork for a pet project of mine. It's a very good insulator, check the thermal conductivity constants (the lower the better):

Cork board 0.043 W/(m K)
Cork, re-granulated 0.044 W/(m K)
Cork 0.07 W/(m K)

When glass is 1.05 W/(m K)
and Silicon cast resin 0.15 - 0.32 W/(m K) (unsure if that's the right one)

Note how the re-granulated form is better than the natural one due to the tighter and more uniform structure.

Those figures mean that the cork will stay way cooler and will rob way less heat from the steel cylinder. That extra heat having nowhere to go should hopefully bounce in part back to the coil. Efficiency should be improved. TBD?

In fact it's better than most woods too. I have no idea what the OG Project wood type is though.

So we could have:
- Project "OG" >> natural, durable, well balanced
- Project "Eraser" >> durable, air tight, but not as pure
- Project "Pure" (sorry I'm not buying your shitfucker shiznit) >> for connoisseurs, most fragile, purest
- Project "A/A" (alcoholics anonymous) >> most efficient (?), least stealthy

 

[natural farmer]

+1 for the naming! And the cork thoughts of course!

Had a good lough with the A/A name! Project A/A could get stealthier with some black sharpie maybe... It's porous enough to hold the ink I think.

 

[stickstones]

love the cork!

 

[ander]

Well... Thanks to all you guys for raising my raw idea on another level...

OD of the cork

Many (I'M a good drinker!)... sparkling wine corks have a mushroom shape and may be larger (from 27 to 30), other wines are around 22-25 mm. Another difference of these last: the ones that come out from the bottles are compressed obviously and are taller (good for a single piece?), the unused are not compressed (diameter around 30-35? Don't have one right now)... different stability/workability?