someone called for the tuboman? here i am!
sorry for the absence, got sick the second time in 2018 already. kind of a rought start.
the awesome thing is that the community is really good at helping and i am too late to really contribute anything new.
yes, the dual needs another applications to do the update. you can find it here:
http://www.joyetech.com/mvr-software/?sid=211, i will add the link. beware from the included firmware, it will reset all settings and apply the joyetech stock firmware. use the updater from joyetech (the exe-file) and the latest tubofirmware from lamart (the bin-file).
the same is true for other tubomyevic supported mods that can be used for the tubox.
BTW if you dual guys want the tubo logo, on your screens you can upload it with the updater as well. (its included with the tubo og updater zip and i will also include it to the dual updater)
the nfirmware updater from nfeteam.org is model independent, it does look a bit more complicated tho.
@frosty234, the fact that you get a centered hot spot means the three tubes are still all working correctly because if not the spot would rather be on one side. for me it sounds like you are going at it too hot, the displayed temps are calibrated for a joint load. the nearer the load is to the heater the hotter the air will be or the further away the more it will cool until it hits the load. if you do baskets at the tip i recommend lowering the temp by around 10degC.
OR you use dirty baskets that could tunnel the heat through the middle section more than to the sides.
uhm yeah, off to like every post in this thread
please ask again if i miss questions!
edit: just liked 130 posts, you guys are crazy
happy tuboing!
edit: one really small thing that i need to correct: there is no harm in adjusting the coil resistance when the heater is hot. it does not matter.
this is only important if you dont know the resistance of your device/atomizer. the mods read the resistance when a device is connected and correlate them to ambient temp (70F i think i saw in the code) aka the cold resistance, thats how they get the temps into ballpark automatically. this is more important in ecigarette world. i supply the calibrated resistance i found to represent real temps most appropriately. also the whole system is different since we heat air to heat herbal material (where we want the temps to be that are displayed) instead of evaporating liquids straight off the coil.