TUBO evic/dual

[funkyjunky]

well it is harder to judge what is going on really if you change your resistance 0.010 or so from very high to low as the heater will have stored a lot of heat which will make the lower resistance seem hotter than it will be the next time its heated from cold.

it can be that when a hot tubo is updated that the hot resistance is taken over. thats why i recommend checking the resistance after each firmware update as well as making sure the TCR values are still at 185, (also because sometimes they say 185 but are stuck somewhere else internally, entering the menu and exiting saves the values again).

apart from that i dont think there is something sensitive in the settings. i am quite sure its recommended all the times in the project thread as they dont know the recommended resistance already for their particular piece of wire. and especially when you cannot change the resistance on your own on other mods!
maybe i did let it slip in the past


super glad you got on the right track @almost there you had me a bit puzzled. enjoy!

 

[SloJimFizz]

On a side note my tubo is knocking my socks off. ... You guys aren't exaggerating one bit, I can't remember the last time I walked in circles

Yay, @almost there is finally there.

 

[sickmanfraud]

@funkyjunky I have a cuboid 200 at the post office. Batteries for the Cuboid are not going to be here until next Friday.

What do I need to do to get the myevic software onto a Cuboid 200?

Thanks in advance and Thanks in general for making the BEST portable vaporizer(s) available today.

 

[CharmCityVapeGuy]

Thanks for the advice. I tried it, packed the basket tighter and drawed more carefully than usual. I also usedthe bent stem whichdoesn't allow long inhales as its getting too hot for me quite fast.
Same result unfortunately, the middle was very dark, alsmost black while the outside was almost green to light brown.



How do you pack your tubo? Also with the double basket screen method?

My guess is that the basket screen maybe the cause as the rim seems to be quite thick and maybe is focusing the airstream to the middle?
Any other method to micro dose?

When I first got my tubo a few month ago I'm quite sure I didn't have the problem with the uneven roasting and I don't know what have changed since then. But at the moment this problem is damping my fun using the tubo...
Maybe @funkyjunky has heard of this problem before or got a solution? My coil resistance is at default settings .206 and i haven't changed anything in the settings.

I have been using the basket screen capsule method with great results. I had to fix my settings once or twice to match the expected settings but then I was golden.

 

[funkyjunky]

@funkyjunky I have a cuboid 200 at the post office. Batteries for the Cuboid are not going to be here until next Friday.

What do I need to do to get the myevic software onto a Cuboid 200?

Thanks in advance and Thanks in general for making the BEST portable vaporizer(s) available today.

yes there is still the need for a proper tubox manual...

the official way to do it would be looking for your device on the joytech updater page to find the software that can update your specific model: http://www.joyetech.com/mvr-software/
wismec models: http://www.wismec.com/software/
use this update tool (exe file) to update your device with the newest tubo firmware (bin file) from lamart.
alternatively you can also use the firmware updater within ntoolbox.exe from nfeteam.org, it supports all devices in one.

then, go to "menu>coils>manage" and enter the coil resistance acorrding to the sotch attached to your tubox when received in the field "TCR", make sure the lock symbol is there before you leave the menu. while here, set "Check" to "No".
go to "menu>coils>TCR" and check that especially M1 is 185. while in the menu you can deactivate all modes except the TCR and maybe POWER, your choice, so that they dont turn up when rotating through base modes.

the tubox should now be ready to rumble.

follow the trouble shoot if you think it runs too cool/hot. (increase/decrease coil resistance).

 

[Likun]

@frosty234, the fact that you get a centered hot spot means the three tubes are still all working correctly because if not the spot would rather be on one side. for me it sounds like you are going at it too hot, the displayed temps are calibrated for a joint load. the nearer the load is to the heater the hotter the air will be or the further away the more it will cool until it hits the load. if you do baskets at the tip i recommend lowering the temp by around 10degC.
OR you use dirty baskets that could tunnel the heat through the middle section more than to the sides.

Great to hear from you! Get well soon!

Glad to hear that my Tubo isn't defective, I didn't expect it to be. But my settings are definitely messed up.
I raised the coil resistance from .206 to .210 and I got much better results using the bent stem or bent stem+whip both with the basket screen capsule.
Now I got my ddave cooler and with the same settings .210 resistance and basket screen capsule I get the dark hotspot in the centre again. No idea what to change now. And I don't really want to have to change the settings when using different stems...
As mentioned before I tried to re-install my tubo software but it isn't recognized by my computer. I tried two different ones, both with Win10. Tried with and without battery, USB 2 und USB 3. Nope. Any other option?

 

[sickmanfraud]

As mentioned before I tried to re-install my tubo software but it isn't recognized by my computer. I tried two different ones, both with Win10. Tried with and without battery, USB 2 und USB 3. Nope. Any other option?

Are you SURE the cable is a data cable and not just a charging cable?

 

[Gray Area]

@frosty234 are you using the joytech updater?? Maybe try this: enter the recovery mode by taking out the battery. hold the plus button pressed while plugging it in via usb. The computer should recognise the device and then be it should be able to be updated again, after that the display should start to flash. insert battery again and (in theory) it should work.

This worked for me when I had a failed update and Tubo wouldn't turn on or be recognised by my computer... dunno if it'll help with your problem..?

 

[Likun]

Are you SURE the cable is a data cable and not just a charging cable?

Yes, iveI tried several cables, some of which I've already used to transfer data.

@frosty234 are you using the joytech updater?? Maybe try this: enter the recovery mode by taking out the battery. hold the plus button pressed while plugging it in via usb. The computer should recognise the device and then be it should be able to be updated again, after that the display should start to flash. insert battery again and (in theory) it should work.

This worked for me when I had a failed update and Tubo wouldn't turn on or be recognised by my computer... dunno if it'll help with your problem..?

I tried it - without success. This way the tubo display stayed black but joyetech updater gave me "Device Name: Unknown Device".
Normaly, when not pressing any button while plugging in, updater gives me nothing at all and tubo display turns on.

EDIT: In windows device manager tubo is recognized as "USB Input Device" with the yellow triagle next to its symbol.

EDIT2: Yay I manage to do it now with the NToolbox and holding + button while plugging in. It seemed to be successful but I'm not sure if my settings were overwritten at all. Coil resistance was still at .210, or is this the default setting after flashing?
Any way to proof if the flash was successful?

 

[funkyjunky]

yes, i wanted to recommend the ntoolbox as a last resort. it would be interesting to know if it is recognized now, after the update by the joyetech updater.

you can check which version of firmware is installed if you click the fire button like 20 times, i usually lose count and just click repeatedly until a screen appears saying: myevic (gotta change that sometime to tubomyevic) and the date when the firmware file was compiled, "170926" right now.

the firmware update should not change the settings like coil resistance and tcr numbers, temp set etc.
if you like to start from scratch, go to the tab "dataflash" from the ntoolbox updater, click on "reset dataflash" and install the latest firmware again. now you start out with the default tubomyevic settings.
insert coil resistance&set check to no, check tcr values and you should be back in action again.



mhm does anyone have too many mighty/crafty dosing capsules? i would want to buy like 3 or so without the holder, nor do i need the 40 pack right now. so if someone has bought the 40 pack in the past and can spare 3 id gladly buy them from them, please, thanks
nice, got it covered, thanks @Padriano!

 

[Likun]

I tried it again to see if joyetech updater recognizes my tubo now - it doesn't!
Now it reacts even weirder - when I connect the Tubo I get an error message "UpdateFirmware isn't working any longer" (original: "UpdateFirmware funktioniert nicht mehr") and no response from joyetech updater.

Another strange thing is that it shows me firmware "myevic build 170927 version 3.30" not 170926 as you mentioned and as the file is named.

Nevertheless Tubo is working but I still get black hotspots in the centre when using the written coil resistance (.206). Using the bent stem it seems to be fine with .209/.210 gotta figure that out.
BUT now I got my @DDave stem and again I get the black hotspots.
Shouldn't be that I have to change coil resistance each time i change stem, right?

I figured out that the ddave cooler seems to have a little longer male joint so that when I'm using double basket screen method the lower screen is barely touching the screen just above the coils. Maybe there isn't enough space for the air to float around? I don't know... I'm getting desperate

 

[leveltree]

@frosty234 do you also get black spots if you inhale reeeally slow?
Could be interesting for determining the cause...

 

[Leolo]

From my limited understanding I can totally see how the weed being to close to the coil, can make the hot spot appear. I would also expect less dry herb to Aggrevate the phenomena, since the herb in the middle will dry out much faster and therefor being cooked and over cooked before the surrounding material.. if the airstream was totally even the humidity of the herb shouldn’t matter that much though.. maybe the Ddave cooler is the problem? I’ve been considering buying it, so good to now if it sucks with this device..

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

I tried it again to see if joyetech updater recognizes my tubo now - it doesn't!
Now it reacts even weirder - when I connect the Tubo I get an error message "UpdateFirmware isn't working any longer" (original: "UpdateFirmware funktioniert nicht mehr") and no response from joyetech updater.

Another strange thing is that it shows me firmware "myevic build 170927 version 3.30" not 170926 as you mentioned and as the file is named.

Nevertheless Tubo is working but I still get black hotspots in the centre when using the written coil resistance (.206). Using the bent stem it seems to be fine with .209/.210 gotta figure that out.
BUT now I got my @DDave stem and again I get the black hotspots.
Shouldn't be that I have to change coil resistance each time i change stem, right?

I figured out that the ddave cooler seems to have a little longer male joint so that when I'm using double basket screen method the lower screen is barely touching the screen just above the coils. Maybe there isn't enough space for the air to float around? I don't know... I'm getting desperate

If you get charring you should be decreasing coil resistance not increasing it. Do you load directly in a gong or in the mesh cup? Those meshcups are really fine and they get clogged easily,try torching it redhot and then clean with iso and/or water.
I dont use neither the bent stem nor the short one. I only use the bong adapter i i've never had a hotspot. Either decrease your temps or coil res.

 

[pakalolo]

BUT now I got my @DDave stem and again I get the black hotspots.

@frosty234 do you also get black spots if you inhale reeeally slow?
Could be interesting for determining the cause...

A central black spot is caused by a concentrated airflow, probably introduced by a smaller diameter choke point close to the load. The effect is exacerbated by faster airflow, which is what @leveltree is getting at. While it's important to get the resistance setting right, it is not likely to correct centre charring. You're changing just the air temperature and not the flow pattern, which is the real cause. It will still happen, just at a different rate. The simplest fix is a slower draw.

 

[Likun]

The problem with decreasing coil resistance is that I won't get any vapor at all if I do do. At stock settings (.206) I barely get any vapor around 180-190°C and that only if I do very long draws. After increasing by .003 I got big clouds even with slow and short draws - that's how it should be I guessed so I thought increasing may be the right way. I already tried lowering it to .205 and again got barely any vapor.

I find it kinda hard to do slow draws as the draw resistance is soo low on this device, which for me is a quite positive aspect as I don't like to suck on the stem like you have to on some other devices.

I will now give it a try through water with default settings and double basket screen capsule @ 180 °C. I'll report.

Edit: Forgot to thank you guys for partaking on my problem - Thanks so far!

 

[muunch]

my favorite thing about this is how foolproof it is. i let everything heat soak and then off to the races. can kill a 0.1g capsule in 3-4 big ole huffs. abv is always dark brown/chocolate colored afterwords.

i posted some waterworks videos with my OG... dual should be landing this week, maybe I'll post up a dry session with a muunchreviews™ capsule

 

[Shit Snacks]

The problem with decreasing coil resistance is that I won't get any vapor at all if I do do. At stock settings (.206) I barely get any vapor around 180-190°C and that only if I do very long draws. After increasing by .003 I got big clouds even with slow and short draws - that's how it should be I guessed so I thought increasing may be the right way. I already tried lowering it to .205 and again got barely any vapor.

I find it kinda hard to do slow draws as the draw resistance is soo low on this device, which for me is a quite positive aspect as I don't like to suck on the stem like you have to on some other devices.

I will now give it a try through water with default settings and double basket screen capsule @ 180 °C. I'll report.

Edit: Forgot to thank you guys for partaking on my problem - Thanks so far!

Yeah I mean I never do slow draws really here, for me Tubo is more like a GH style Zion where I rip it as opposed to sip it. True you can draw a little too hard even so, but my standard draw is definitely not slow. But yeah as I mentioned I will get that tunneling on upper temps with my shallow basket loads in the bent stem. It is hard to use a pure convection vape designed like this with a filled basket screen in the stem close to the heater, and get fully even extraction without stirring or hotspots in my experience...

 

[muunch]

Avoid higher temps. 385f is max i do packed that way

 

[Shit Snacks]

Avoid higher temps. 385f is max i do packed that way

That wasn't in reply to me was it? Just more advice building on mine for @frosty234?

 

[muunch]

in addition to your post!

i wasnt as comprehensive as i should have been with the earlier post

 

[sickmanfraud]

Now that there are more people using the vtc Dual I was wondering about the "pair" of batteries used in the dual.

I have not noticed that they come out from the Tubo with the exact same charge. Has anyone who is using a dual noticed used batteries that were or were not at the same charge when they were "empty" and ready to be charged?

 

[BaronOfBud]

Mine have always come out with the same charge. My charger is only accurate to the 0.1's though.

 

[almost there]

Now that there are more people using the vtc Dual I was wondering about the "pair" of batteries used in the dual.

I have not noticed that they come out from the Tubo with the exact same charge. Has anyone who is using a dual noticed used batteries that were or were not at the same charge when they were "empty" and ready to be charged?

I was using a pair of 30Q's and one of the batteries is usually .01 off from the other despite the fact it went in with the same charge.

 

[little maggie]

The boxmods are confusing to me. I'm considering getting the cuboid since it's in your tubox list. But I can't find a cuboid 150 or 200. Mainly I see the cuboid tap and no comparison with the 150s. Is it the same only with a different name and will it be compatible with the tubox.
I haven't tried my dual yet because I've been sick but I'm charging 2 batteries now to check it out.