Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Sorry Yes I misread and confused myself before, it was never Saturday lol
7/10 for GVB drop with those WPA!
TinyMight / TM 2
- Thread starter kuzko
- Start date
Sorry Yes I misread and confused myself before, it was never Saturday lol
7/10 for GVB drop with those WPA!
gangababa
Well-Known Member
A shout out to the folks in Finland making (and fixing) our Tinymight vapes. The story of my warranty repair.
The micro-switch separated from the circuit board.
Because I am in Uruguay and Aduana (customs) is particularly strict, I felt that sending my TM2 to Finland for repair would only result in problems when a banned vape came back to me.
Via email, I suggested that Tinymight send only a new circuit board, thinking that it would reach me without problem via international mail.
Tinymight felt that they ought to send a replacement heater as well; I assumed due to calibration. OK.
The warranty parts arrived today. A new circuit board and heater, but they are not assembled. Not that I mind.
Tinymight also included the new design button and a stainless sleeve to replace the upper glass. I am not certain that I want to do so as I am partial to glass.
More photos to follow latter, but here is the new two-part button with a soft silicone pad that fits into the metal button and presses against the micro-switch. The black part is apparently installed with the off-set down toward the bottom cap; it seems to be a glide. If I am wrong, please tell me.
Some data points:
Old heater with glass: weight 20.36g, OD 24mm Glass is 2mm thick
New heater with zirconium: weight 27.63g, OD 22mm Zirconium is 1.5mm thick. More air space surrounds heater.
Upper glass sleeve weight 7.44g, 2mm thick, 24mm OD
New metal sleeve weight 7.24g, .5 mm thick, 21mm OD. Again, more space between wood and sleeve and considerably less mass for absorbing heat, but perhaps faster heat conduction from the sleeve to the air passing by on the outside surface (some intake air pre-heating?)
The micro-switch separated from the circuit board.
Because I am in Uruguay and Aduana (customs) is particularly strict, I felt that sending my TM2 to Finland for repair would only result in problems when a banned vape came back to me.
Via email, I suggested that Tinymight send only a new circuit board, thinking that it would reach me without problem via international mail.
Tinymight felt that they ought to send a replacement heater as well; I assumed due to calibration. OK.
The warranty parts arrived today. A new circuit board and heater, but they are not assembled. Not that I mind.
Tinymight also included the new design button and a stainless sleeve to replace the upper glass. I am not certain that I want to do so as I am partial to glass.
More photos to follow latter, but here is the new two-part button with a soft silicone pad that fits into the metal button and presses against the micro-switch. The black part is apparently installed with the off-set down toward the bottom cap; it seems to be a glide. If I am wrong, please tell me.
Some data points:
Old heater with glass: weight 20.36g, OD 24mm Glass is 2mm thick
New heater with zirconium: weight 27.63g, OD 22mm Zirconium is 1.5mm thick. More air space surrounds heater.
Upper glass sleeve weight 7.44g, 2mm thick, 24mm OD
New metal sleeve weight 7.24g, .5 mm thick, 21mm OD. Again, more space between wood and sleeve and considerably less mass for absorbing heat, but perhaps faster heat conduction from the sleeve to the air passing by on the outside surface (some intake air pre-heating?)
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El Duderino
The Dude abides.
TinyMight WPA Slide Bowls available at GoodVibesBoro. Only 2 pieces left. Looking forward to mine!
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El Duderino
The Dude abides.
I hope it's okay to double post for an exception. I just received my Azzwood X Hookahhead_Md collab stem and it's a real beauty:
The white spiral is fixed in the stem and looks so cool. I love the wooden mouthpiece, it's super beautiful and feels very comfortable on the lips. I find the airflow to be rather open and the vapor is cooled properly. I'm happy with it!
The white spiral is fixed in the stem and looks so cool. I love the wooden mouthpiece, it's super beautiful and feels very comfortable on the lips. I find the airflow to be rather open and the vapor is cooled properly. I'm happy with it!
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Double post back-to-back is always fine after the edit window, the edit window is only 6 or 8 hours so you are free to post again, and if you do accidentally post without editing during that time, for example if you wanted to reply to a quote which cannot be done with an edit, just hit the report button to alert the mods so they can merge your posts
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Sounds like it could be the haptic motor. I don’t recall if the TM2 has the same or similar design as the OG TM for this. I’ve taken apart my OG TM and fixed this a couple of times. It’s a rubber housing with a little plastic piece inside that got stuck. Some have tried to bang their TM into their palm while assembled to loosen the plastic piece in the housing (that worked for me once while I took it apart the other time). I haven’t taken apart my PH TM2 yet and won’t unless I need to. Hope your issue is resolved soon.
gangababa
Well-Known Member
I believe that I have seen more than one of these "What do I do now?" posts.
The temp dial has fallen free from the PCB controller. So I had to learn how to fix it.
First: Before you ever begin to open up your TM, set the temp control to "0" (zero).
The dial has a post that fits into the rheostat heat controller.
The post and hole are both hexagonal.
If the dial was at zero, it is a simple task to insert the dial with the dot pointed correctly.
Setting the bottom plate in place will confirm that you have it correct; if not reset it to the next flats.
Each turn is 60%, so if you are wrong it will be obvious.
The rheostat affixed to the PCB has a limited range between the two stops; perhaps 220-30 degrees.
If the problem happens and you have no idea where the dial was set, no problem.
Using the dial, carefully turn the rheostat counter-clockwise to the zero stop; do not use force.
Now set the dial post into the rheostat hole as explained before.
Hope this helps.
The temp dial has fallen free from the PCB controller. So I had to learn how to fix it.
First: Before you ever begin to open up your TM, set the temp control to "0" (zero).
The dial has a post that fits into the rheostat heat controller.
The post and hole are both hexagonal.
If the dial was at zero, it is a simple task to insert the dial with the dot pointed correctly.
Setting the bottom plate in place will confirm that you have it correct; if not reset it to the next flats.
Each turn is 60%, so if you are wrong it will be obvious.
The rheostat affixed to the PCB has a limited range between the two stops; perhaps 220-30 degrees.
If the problem happens and you have no idea where the dial was set, no problem.
Using the dial, carefully turn the rheostat counter-clockwise to the zero stop; do not use force.
Now set the dial post into the rheostat hole as explained before.
Hope this helps.
Dr. G
Vapman Collector*Vapman Beta Tester
Gorgeous....enjoy.I hope it's okay to double post for an exception. I just received my Azzwood X Hookahhead_Md collab stem and it's a real beauty:
The white spiral is fixed in the stem and looks so cool. I love the wooden mouthpiece, it's super beautiful and feels very comfortable on the lips. I find the airflow to be rather open and the vapor is cooled properly. I'm happy with it!
gangababa
Well-Known Member
The old PCB from which micro switch broke-off is over one and a half years old (right, lighter color green).
Compare to the new replacement on the left (darker color green). We are seeing the bottom of the PCB (towards bottom plate).
One can see evidence of the switch being soldered though the PCB; note the four shiny solder points not seen on the other.
The battery contact is also reversed.
The switch. I need a better photo. Note the added blob of ??? (silicone).
Compare to the new replacement on the left (darker color green). We are seeing the bottom of the PCB (towards bottom plate).
One can see evidence of the switch being soldered though the PCB; note the four shiny solder points not seen on the other.
The battery contact is also reversed.
The switch. I need a better photo. Note the added blob of ??? (silicone).
ChipNJ
Well-Known Member
Thanks. The banging it into my hand fixed the issue.Sounds like it could be the haptic motor. I don’t recall if the TM2 has the same or similar design as the OG TM for this. I’ve taken apart my OG TM and fixed this a couple of times. It’s a rubber housing with a little plastic piece inside that got stuck. Some have tried to bang their TM into their palm while assembled to loosen the plastic piece in the housing (that worked for me once while I took it apart the other time). I haven’t taken apart my PH TM2 yet and won’t unless I need to. Hope your issue is resolved soon.
Bob “Rob” Roberts
Well-Known Member
What stir tool?I’ve had my PH TM2 for two months and, for the record, I have yet to use the stir tool. The TM2 otherwise is exceptional! Love the Tinymight!! Weekend regards to all.
Vitolo
Vaporist
Truth is I did not know one existed.
I stared at my TM2 and pinched at the protrusion that looks like a button... source of the blinking tiny lights.
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666Honeybadger
Unknown member
It's really great that you managed to get your unit repaired without sending it in (given the risk in your case).The old PCB from which micro switch broke-off is over one and a half years old (right, lighter color green).
Compare to the new replacement on the left (darker color green). We are seeing the bottom of the PCB (towards bottom plate).
One can see evidence of the switch being soldered though the PCB; note the four shiny solder points not seen on the other.
The battery contact is also reversed.
The switch. I need a better photo. Note the added blob of ??? (silicone).
Brilliant that they worked with you on this solution, feels like an extra insurance: even when circumstances are tough they still got your back!
Also interesting to see the differences, i hadn't noticed that the battery contact reversed on my PH unit (compared to my first purchased TM2) so i learned something
I was wondering, since you had to open up your unit after 1,5 years of usage: did you see any dirt/particles/resin on the inside? Like on top of the PCB or inside the heater compartment/wood encasing?
I sometimes wonder how clean it is in there after a while but not curious enough to open it up and check tbh...
*Edit: ooh, i just realised now that you also have a new heater? (Any pics?) So now i'm also curious if you noticed any debris/dirt/... inside and/or on the bottom of the heater?
And how did installing the new parts go? Was it smooth sailing?*
Enjoy your newly fixed TM2, i'm sure it's great to have it back up and running!
I use it a lot tbh. Never for stirring but sometimes for emptying the bowl (when inside), also use it to remove any crumbs that fall on the oven screen. Or to push back/remove screens... Or to empty my Tempest bowl, pick stuff from my grinder...
So even tho i never stir i would really miss it tbh. It's a multi tool for me!
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gangababa
Well-Known Member
The only place that looked dirty was the bottom plate, pictured. All else was clean except some discoloration of the perforated spacer disk above the heater. It cleaned up with alcohol.I...I was wondering, since you had to open up your unit after 1,5 years of usage: did you see any dirt/particles/resin on the inside? Like on top of the PCB or inside the heater compartment/wood encasing?
I sometimes wonder how clean it is in there after a while but not curious enough to open it up and check tbh...
*Edit: ooh, i just realised now that you also have a new heater? (Any pics?) So now i'm also curious if you noticed any debris/dirt/... inside and/or on the bottom of the heater?
And how did installing the new parts go? Was it smooth sailing?*
...
The heater coils are darkened from heat, compared to new. The old shows nearly no dirty, dusty, gritty, or stain.
The PCB was clean.
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Yes, that’s the one. I thought everyone knew it was a stir tool too in addition to seeing the different light colors for battery levels from the top. Kinda useful and more so than the stir tool for me, LOL. Consider it a PSA then
. El Peligroso
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know the exact measurements for the o-ring on the poker?
Mine tore apart and I bought replacements from a local store. The o-ring fits on the poker itself but it makes it where the poker doesn’t go into/out of the slot unless I use a lot of force.
Mine tore apart and I bought replacements from a local store. The o-ring fits on the poker itself but it makes it where the poker doesn’t go into/out of the slot unless I use a lot of force.
m0sh
Singer Song Writer Stoner
That's the way to go!
I only use this one, I've broken a countless amount of these as well, but luckily, only the top part for most of them. I was able to shave it off with a glass cutter and some glass paper to finish.
Kinda interesting you call it a microdose, I mean it might be. but I think you can fill it up with almost .2g or at least .15g and I do 2 of those for every session.
I ordered another version of this with glass beads, no idea why, I wanted to try I guess. It came without a metal screen and with holes in the glass, just like an Arizer stem, so you can fit more herb, you might be interested, I can look it up if you want.
Still not a fan of the original stems, I just don't like having to clean the cooling unit, too lazy.
gangababa
Well-Known Member
I have been assembling a database of TM information; some from reading and some from my measuring.
I believe the o-ring size to be 7mm OD, 5mm ID, 1mm thick.