TinyMight / TM 2

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
After thoroughly cleaning the glass stem and cooling units I was attempting to place the units back into the stem when the glass shattered in my hand. No damage to my hand. Fortunately, I still have the glass stem from my broken TM. I want to order a couple of more glass stems, but not from TM. I don't use mine through water. I've seen in a few posts where some folks suggest using the Splinter stem. Tried it with multiple stems and find that it just didn't fit in the device. I am afraid of using too much force in fear of breaking yet another stem. I would like to find one that has cooling properties like the XL8R. Someone please point me in the right direction.
 
Bazinga,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
After thoroughly cleaning the glass stem and cooling units I was attempting to place the units back into the stem when the glass shattered in my hand. No damage to my hand. Fortunately, I still have the glass stem from my broken TM. I want to order a couple of more glass stems, but not from TM. I don't use mine through water. I've seen in a few posts where some folks suggest using the Splinter stem. Tried it with multiple stems and find that it just didn't fit in the device. I am afraid of using too much force in fear of breaking yet another stem. I would like to find one that has cooling properties like the XL8R. Someone please point me in the right direction.

The problem with cooling spike indents like xl8r is that you will not be able to remove an interior basket screen from poking through the other end, and those basket screens get stuck in the TM body (I think he now sells proper rimmed screens on the website, but you don't want to order from him there...)

Anyway Oregon Glass Blower can make you a 16 mm glass stem with spikes, or you can try to shop around for a plain one? Maybe @Unklmark68can cut down some mountain glass for you too without the spikes?
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I thought I had some Torx drivers around here, but I guess I don't. What size do I need to buy and are Torx the same as Stars?

My device has stopped vibrating so I think it needs some attention to its innards...
 

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
LabPong - Went back through the posts and found you are using the RBT mouthpieces in your TM. I have a bunch of short and long glass stems for my Splinter. Assuming these are the same stems you are using, how in the heck did you get them to fit in the TM without using a hammer?

The Ultimate Tiny Might Cooling Stem. Approximately 25-30 3mm glass pearls, and a Dynavap Hula stem fits very snug in the clear 16mm tubing ...The clear glass also makes a cool red ring around the black , when the fire button is hit.......
Without the glass pearls will the vapor be too hot?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
LabPong - Went back through the posts and found you are using the RBT mouthpieces in your TM. I have a bunch of short and long glass stems for my Splinter. Assuming these are the same stems you are using, how in the heck did you get them to fit in the TM without using a hammer?

There's a lot of variance in glass, I have very many RBT stems, some fit some do not... the newer plain smoked glass splinter stems are a tight fit, but seem to be pretty consistent?

Alan of toasty top HI (and others) sells basket screens that will fit well too...

btw use the edit feature on your post instead of posting twice back to back for the future!
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
So i now have 3 TMs- 2 new just received & my orig TM from july thats working great (after i fixed the non working haptic vibration piece a few months ago).
I went back to see if you described how you fixed this, but you don't allow strangers to look at your posts (and I guess I am kinda strange...). Ya wanna repost it of give me a link to it please?
LabPong - Went back through the posts and found you are using the RBT mouthpieces in your TM. I have a bunch of short and long glass stems for my Splinter. Assuming these are the same stems you are using, how in the heck did you get them to fit in the TM without using a hammer?
I have good luck with most of my RBT stems in the TM.

And BTW, I noticed in a @LabPong post that T15 seems to be the appropriate Torx driver...

And, BTW again, which page has that great breakdown of the TM?

Ah ha. #187 has a nice one from @JoeKickass

One more question (since mine is still the last post). Up until recently a mild rap of the TM on my wooden vape station would loosen a stuck haptic motor, but that has stopped resolving it. Until I get the Torx driver and go inside, can someone who has taken it apart recommend the correct orientation most likely to unstick the motor with a rap? I really don't want to rap it very hard...
 
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bgrpph

Well-Known Member
I went back to see if you described how you fixed this, but you don't allow strangers to look at your posts (and I guess I am kinda strange...). Ya wanna repost it of give me a link to it please?
cybrguy- to fix my non working virbation on my 1st TM, i took screw off bottom & took top & bottom off- carefully with bottom. on (TM page 187- post 4674 dated 7/7/20) one of the pictures shows the haptic motor placed in the silicone on the bottom piece- be sure ur haptic is placed as shown in the pic- When i initially tried to fix mine i put the motor in incorrectly & had no vibration- took apart again after i found the pic that shows how to correctly place motor in silicone- placed it like pic showed & it worked normally again with vibration & has been fine since then. hope this helps
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Yeah, I listed that page in my post.

I assume you mean this pic?
7zb99nK.jpg
 

Kinick23

Well-Known Member
(I think he now sells proper rimmed screens on the website

hey bro just a heads up on this as I thought the same. I wanted the rimmed screens after getting one when I got the xl cooling stem so I ordered a handful from the website (no picture listed) and added a note on checkout specifically requesting the rimmed style. Package showed up like 3 weeks later with no rimmed screens to my disappointment. They look like lil semi circles without the rim. They fit well just seem a bit flimsier than the rimmed bucket style. I wrote them on it but don’t expect to hear back.
 

Djsleepy

Well-Known Member
I’m hoping it’s just late but when I got my new unit the battery lid was flush so that’s how I’ve been doing it flush, it seems to be wispy and not as strong could I have gone too far and pushed in prong at bottom of battery compartment? Would that cause those symptoms? And If so does anyone remember the page with how to fix was on (that best practices thread sounds better every day)? I hope I’m just high and tripping ! Good Night and TIA!
 
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Djsleepy,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I’m hoping it’s just late but when I got my new unit the battery lid was flush so that’s how I’ve been doing it flush, it seems to be wispy and not as strong could I have gone too far and pushed in prong at bottom of battery compartment? If so does anyone remember the page with how to fix was on (that best practices thread sounds better every day) hope I’m just high! Good
Night and TIA

I believe the answer was a paperclip but it takes good force to press it down...
 
Shit Snacks,
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Unklmark68

Well-Known Member
LabPong - Went back through the posts and found you are using the RBT mouthpieces in your TM. I have a bunch of short and long glass stems for my Splinter. Assuming these are the same stems you are using, how in the heck did you get them to fit in the TM without using a hammer?


Without the glass pearls will the vapor be too hot?
A little bit warmer without the pearls, but still cooler than the default cooling unit , in my opinion
 

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
I believe the answer was a paperclip but it takes good force to press it down...
I think it's rather lifting the contact up:
No, just use a partially unbent paperclip down the battery slot to "fish up" the battery terminal. Don't pull it too far, though. You just need to pry it up a bit to be back in business.

:peace:
Those damaged contacts most likely happen when the lid is *not* sitting flush, makes the cell rattle inside the unit (or, as @dzoinp mentioned, when the cell is falling onto those contacts).
 

Kaptan

Well-Known Member
I’m hoping it’s just late but when I got my new unit the battery lid was flush so that’s how I’ve been doing it flush, it seems to be wispy and not as strong could I have gone too far and pushed in prong at bottom of battery compartment? Would that cause those symptoms? And If so does anyone remember the page with how to fix was on (that best practices thread sounds better every day)? I hope I’m just high and tripping ! Good Night and TIA!
That sounds like you are not getting full power and usually the problem is the metal band not making good contact with the metal top. I would check that before messing with the battery spring. Good luck.
 
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Djsleepy

Well-Known Member
That sounds like you are not getting full power and usually the problem is the metal band not making good contact with the metal top. I would check that before messing with the battery spring. Good luck.
Will I be able to tell looking at it that it’s the problem? so I don’t get into something I don’t need to .What’s the best thing to do bend it or put piece of foil under ? I looked over last ten pages but no details on repair.
 
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Djsleepy,

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
I think it's rather lifting the contact up:

Those damaged contacts most likely happen when the lid is *not* sitting flush, makes the cell rattle inside the unit (or, as @dzoinp mentioned, when the cell is falling onto those contacts).
This is why it’s not good to to just drop the battery into the slot. Rather do it gently or put it in sideways. I lost my spring a while back and haven’t been able to fix it. I tried with a paper clip to no avail (not dexterous and sturdy enough). Someone here used a long rigid dental device which I don’t have. Should I take my Tinymight apart (haven’t yet again after the partial disassemble a few days ago) I’ll certainly bend the bottom contact up a bit to restore its spring - and also clean the contacts on the circuit board. Carefully. I’m a bit hesitant to do so but my unit just seems off from its usual behavior and I’ve already cleaned it (except the bottom plate and contacts) and shimmed the metal tab under the top plate. I’m still thinking it could be the large oring on top the glass cylinder. We’ll see. :peace:
 
Vaporific,

vapviking

Old & In the Way
I'm only a lurker (I come over here to drool over the New-New thing), but this vape is starting to sound like it needs a "TinyMight Fixes" thread. The Grasshopper had one years ago, and while TM doesn't appear to have near the issues that GH had, the distance and c/s are forcing some folks to take things into their own hands -- not altogether a bad thing anyway.

@Djsleepy, re: that little stand @Unklmark68 made for his j-hook (nice job, Mark!);
I googled "single pipe stand" and got a huge group of images for some things doing similar function. Even a slew of things on Amazon (some even kinda cool-looking).
 
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dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Djsleepy
Make this simple test:
Put the TM on its side and insert the battery (I always put the battery like this)
put the TM upright and start screwing the battery cover slowly until it gives the battery charge indication.
After the buzzes, how many turns until tight?
 
dzoinp,

Djsleepy

Well-Known Member
@Djsleepy
Make this simple test:
Put the TM on its side and insert the battery (I always put the battery like this)
put the TM upright and start screwing the battery cover slowly until it gives the battery charge indication.
How many turns until tight?
That’s how I have always done , it came flush I turn until flush
 
Djsleepy,
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