Discontinued The Grasshopper

Vaperist

Vaperist

Well-Known Member
vapviking said:
Okay, I slept on this and decided I can bring it up among friends.

An old trick in the carpentry trade, and I do mean old, for an easy, available lubricant on a stubborn screw or such; You have the lube on your nose and the applicator on your fingertip. Apply sparingly to threads. ;)
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EDIT: this is grouse man! :shit: but does that nose lube really works? that staff is based on water. that will evaporate and leave only dee sticky part of it on that Hopper thread.

or is it a joke maybe? never understand those. i laugh if somebody is telling a funny story or anecdote. when people are telling something i can filter a sarcasm out. but not jokes. i take information as it is. and if that info is stupid, i receive it as a stupidity not as humor. how i'm suppose to know which one is which?
 
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VegNVape

VegNVape

Increase the Peace
Company Rep
Vaperist said:
EDIT: this is grouse man! :shit: but does that nose lube really works? that staff is based on water. that will evaporate and leave only dee sticky part of it on that Hopper thread.

or is it a joke maybe? never understand those. i laugh if somebody is telling a funny story or anecdote. when people are telling something i can filter a sarcasm out. but not jokes. i take information as it is. and if that info is stupid, i receive it as a stupidity not as humor. how i'm suppose to know which one is which?
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:nod:

:ugh:


:peace:​
 
BadDog No

BadDog No

Well-Known Member
Back in my mountain biking day, one of the reasons I never bought a titanium frame was the special lubricant you had to use to keep it from "welding" itself to fasteners. I have no idea if this has anything to do with the TI GH's threads feeling rough, but it's the reason I ordered SS. If some metallurgist or some such has already dismissed my fears in a previous post, my apologies; I'm new here and it's a long thread! Or maybe that was only between Titanium and steel that the "welding" occurred?

Oh, and nose oil is great to use as a wood polish too as in "Dude, how do you keep your MFLB so shiny looking?" I usually lie...:lol:
 
vapviking

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Vaperist said:
EDIT: this is grouse man! :shit: but does that nose lube really works? that staff is based on water. that will evaporate and leave only dee sticky part of it on that Hopper thread.
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Maybe there's a language problem here. You realize I was referring to oil from on the nose, not in the nose?

In a machine shop, when cutting new threads on steel you lubricate with oil, then clean it off. I was suggesting an oil as a temporary lube while threads wear in on this Hopper. Then clean it off. I wouldn't leave mineral oil or any other on there either. Dirt collectors.


Vaperist said:
i take information as it is. and if that info is stupid, i receive it as a stupidity not as humor. how i'm suppose to know which one is which?
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Sorry, any treatment of this subject is way above my pay grade.
 
T

Tdtour

Well-Known Member
@vapviking I am glad you are not referring to the stuff inside the nose, thats called a boogger.:rofl:

But how about a dry lubricant, like graphite?

I do not have my hopper so I have not experienced the situation.

I did not know that Ti materials can weld together.
 
vapviking

vapviking

Old & In the Way
I don't know anything about the self welding of titanium. Don't they make watches out of this stuff?

Do I need to worry about my threads welding together? on my Ti Hopper that's still just a gleam in the eye of that crack assembly team? And will they complete it by next Thursday? To all that I'd say, "Unlikely."

I don't think lubricating any parts of the Hopper really needs to be on anyone's list, except maybe for a fidgety new thread situation. With graphite, I would worry that it might seep around, or it's dust may go deeper into the Hopper than you'd want any foreign matter to be.
 
vapviking,
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tubasco

tubasco

Well-Known Member
BadDog No said:
Hope I didn't get anyone all riled up by introducing one more thing to worry about, but as you can see by the link, it's something cyclists are aware of. Probably has nothing to do with the GH...
https://www.tlcbikes.com/product/titanium-anti-seize/
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not to encourage the thread to go further off topic ...but "installing a component" on a bicycle (presumably with a tool and a whole lot of torque) is much different than hand tightening a threaded part that is intended to get installed and removed several times a week.
 
Vapetrees

Vapetrees

Vaped Out
Kasish said:
Someone wrote and i dont know exactly who that its harder to tighten the back when nearing the end, thats due to the spring on it. Try without a battery in and u will see it diasapears.
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It was me and it doesn't disappear. I've only used it for two days though, it did get better but didn't go away completely. It just feels rough at the end and the only reason I noticed is because I have an SS and it doesn't feel rough. It really isn't a big deal and I'll try the nose oil thing just for the fuck of it lol. I can't help but notice that this Ti is much faster at extracting material than my SS. In a few pulls at any temperature it vaporizes all the cannabanoids since I have to raise the temperature constantly to keep getting vapor. I actually prefer the Ti to my SS so far
 
Averyminya

Averyminya

Grasshopper Backer
Vapetrees said:
It was me and it doesn't disappear. I've only used it for two days though, it did get better but didn't go away completely. It just feels rough at the end and the only reason I noticed is because I have an SS and it doesn't feel rough. It really isn't a big deal and I'll try the nose oil thing just for the fuck of it lol. I can't help but notice that this Ti is much faster at extracting material than my SS. In a few pulls at any temperature it vaporizes all the cannabanoids since I have to raise the temperature constantly to keep getting vapor. I actually prefer the Ti to my SS so far
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Just want to make sure I have clarity here.

With a battery in the Grasshopper, the backend dial should slide more easily.

Is this not the case for you? Then, with the backend removed, does depressing the gold tab make the dial slide more easily?

Or am I misunderstanding entirely?
 
Averyminya,
Vapetrees

Vapetrees

Vaped Out
@Averyminya Yeah it does slide easier without a battery but there is coarseness when twisting on, which is not the case on the SS. The dial however is easier to adjust than on the SS lol. My concern wasn't that it gets harder to tighten at the very end, it was that it feels coarse when screwing on unlike the SS. I hope that clarifies it lol

@Kalessin If he feels the same way I do agree with him. The Ti unit is faster at extracting IMO unless my SS unit is not working properly. I have noticed that the battery is lasting longer on the Ti. I can do about four bowls 3/4 full before it dies.

@slcbdco Lmao! Trailer park boys are hilarious.
 
vapviking

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Vaperist said:
so, what is your conclusions? is it necessary to put some stuff on those Hopper threads?
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I don't understand why you might value my conclusions; I only heard the term 'cold welding' for the first time yesterday, and I've stated that I don't have much knowledge of metals. Nonetheless, and given that this phenomenon happens either under vacuum or very high pressure, my studied opinion is that this is a non-issue in relation to the Hopper.
I've already (above) summarized my conclusion, that Hopper threads in general should not be lubricated, with the possible exception of temporarily, as threads wear in.
 
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Just my two pence worth on the threads. Oil and grease will pick up small metal particles and can turn a lubricant into a grinding paste. This will, over time, damage fine threads. Perhaps some graphite powder would help.
 
EdE80

EdE80

Well-Known Member
I'm only getting about 2 packs from a battery, but that is usually 3-4 actual sessions. I take a couple rips, set it down and go on about my business until i feel the need to repeat. I did rip 2 full packs with the water pipe the other night though, and it ran out of juice towards the end of the 2nd bowl. I'm wondering if I got a bad battery? It sounds like I'm only getting half the charge everyone else is.

Will HL replace my battery? Anyone have any experience with this yet?
 
EdE80,
Mangos

Mangos

Well-Known Member
EdE80 said:
I'm only getting about 2 packs from a battery, but that is usually 3-4 actual sessions. I take a couple rips, set it down and go on about my business until i feel the need to repeat. I did rip 2 full packs with the water pipe the other night though, and it ran out of juice towards the end of the 2nd bowl. I'm wondering if I got a bad battery? It sounds like I'm only getting half the charge everyone else is.

Will HL replace my battery? Anyone have any experience with this yet?
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I have two batteries which I rotate between and one of them is like that. When using it on temp 5 I can get like 2-3 good sized hits, turning it off in between hits .

From temps 4-5 I can get about 3 maybe 4 sessions considering the load size. I usually never put more then a 0.1g's and I find I get a quicker better extraction after tamping down the load in the chamber.

If you don't already, get some spare batteries thing is a pain in the ass with no spares.
Don't think your battery is faulty though- 2-3 sessions on temp 5 and that could deplete the charge on either of my batteries.

Hope this helped.
 
Grepper

Grepper

Truth to prevail
Just received my hopper from its 7th or 8th warranty claim. I finally received the updated back end. Not nearly as smooth as the other dials I have had, feels grainy. Also noticed a bigger gap between the dial and clip compared to others. Gonna be a lot easier to get unwanted debris in there. Maybe thats just how the new clips are?
 
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