Discontinued The Grasshopper

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
You can use an SS mouthpiece interchangeably with the Ti unit. The performance mouthpice is only SS amd is compatible with both styles



I prefer the regular mouthpiece when out and about because it's more discrete both in apparence and usage. The performance mouthpiece makes it look "not like a pen" and gives much bigger clouds.



I have both the beta version and the release version. The release version is quite a bit nicer
So just to confirm: no Ti version imminent and I should buy two SS?

would it be a problem when I use the ss performance front end with my ti hopper... for example would I strip the threads or damage threads...
The chamber threads are SS on the Ti, only the front end has Ti threads. So the PFE will be buttery smooth comparably. I think I'll be getting two SS's anyways, PBW friendly and better scratch resistance against glass - not to mention Ti can draw on glass in a graphite-esque fashion.
 
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guyonthecouch

Well-Known Member
I ordered, I guess now we find out how long "immediately" actually is
Hey @guyonthecouch could you clarify why you prefer the regular front end to the demo WPA when on you're on the go? I know a couple of you have it but I haven't seen much feedback on it here yet.
Does less draw restriction weaken the vapour or do you get too much & it's harsh?
I personally prefer the regular front end when not paired with glass(on the go) compared to the demo wpa due to design and heat factors. Mind you, I didn't really experiment/play with the wpa for on the go use as it is a wpa so we've mainly been using it with a water tool. The few times I did use it "on the go"/as a mouthpiece the metal got hot(native) but had great vapour production. Looks like they've improved the design to be used as a mouthpiece now.

No the vapour is not weakened, if anything it's thicker/stronger.. it's not "harsher", I'd have to say smoother with the WPA out of glass.. and you can never have too much vapour ;)
 
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Baron23

Well-Known Member
Just ordered on. Don't really care about SS versus my GH being Bronze Ti, I'm pretty much into function before anything and we will see how this functions.

When ordered, expected shipping date was shown as March 2017! LOL Don't want to narrow that down too much, now do we HL! haha
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
Any issues i have with my SS hopper is due to a drained battery.
When placed on my Nitecore, anything around 3,86V and i have had issues with the hopper.
3,90V on the Nitecore and the hopper behaves as expected.

Going to keep doing this as one session is 3 bowls for me, so it is easy to fit into the routine.
I will update in a week again!
 

disGRUNTled

Well-Known Member
Headband & Purple Elephant in the Grasshopper , watching the Rangers vs the Devils.Really nice out here in FL.
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almost there

Well-Known Member
Just ordered 2 PFEs.
U are so making me want to do it too but I feel my hopper's moments from a total breakdown, I'll just wait and add it to my RMA. Hopefully it won't sell out but more likely it'll never come about :disgust:.

Edit-and right after saying that my hopper jolted to life in a way that has never happened before:freak:. Unbelievable, for the first time since receiving it I actually had vapor clouds that looks like the videos I've watched a thousand times
 
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MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
U are so making me want to do it too but I feel my hopper's moments from a total breakdown, I'll just wait and add it to my RMA. Hopefully it won't sell out but more likely it'll never come about :disgust:.

Edit-and right after saying that my hopper jolted to life in a way that has never happened before:freak:. Unbelievable, for the first time since receiving it I actually had vapor clouds that looks like the videos I've watched a thousand times

This is just what mine did when I first got it. I was cool running and then one day out of nowhere it started to kick it out like crazy. Then a week or so later I had to RMA it lol! When it came back it was somewhere in the middle in performance, but it's also about to go back in for another RMA in I fear.

None the less, I ordered the PFE and 2 batteries. If it dies, I'll have it when it comes back.....
 

almost there

Well-Known Member
This is just what mine did when I first got it. I was cool running and then one day out of nowhere it started to kick it out like crazy. Then a week or so later I had to RMA it lol! When it came back it was somewhere in the middle in performance, but it's also about to go back in for another RMA in I fear.

None the less, I ordered the PFE and 2 batteries. If it dies, I'll have it when it comes back.....
It's all good, I love the hopper for what it is. I ordered it a few months ago, backed out, and ordered it again bc I had to scratch that itch. Here I am but I don't regret it. As long as they keep repairing it I have enough A list options to keep me from feeling any loss. My sticky brick jr arrives tomorrow so I'm sure I'll have my hands full ;)
 

kato1234

Well-Known Member
Sorry couldn't help myself. :lmao:

Caroline is on the left, Nicole is on the right:

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*** this is a dig at the "Caroline is an A.I." conversation from several months back and is not a dig at either Caroline or Nicole.***
You are a verry verry bad person.
 
kato1234,

slcbdco

Brewer, Lobbyist, Vaporist
So just to confirm: no Ti version imminent and I should buy two SS?

Not that i'm aware of. I always recommend getting two! In all seriousness, I have two, (one beta and one normal) and I suppose it will be convenient at some point to have two, just like it's convenient to have two grasshopppers for guests or whatever but I think most people will get by fine with 1.

@Ratchett speaking of the multiple mouthpieces, (and by the way I love your charger stand and wallet) a mouthpiece stand of a combo charging mouthpiece stand would come in handy as now I find myself trying to leave my standard mouthpiece somewhere I can hopefully find it again!
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Ratchett ... a thought on the mouthpiece screen ... do you think you could design and have made a SS 3-prong tool to remove/insert mouthpiece screens? (really just a round disc w/ 3 small rods sticking out the bottom and a handle on top (if you can't picture it I could draw it--badly--and scan it) ... just something I was thinking about :)

On another note, I've been thinking about my hopper's reliability issues ... it's still going strong, and whenever I start to notice any drop in performance, I rotate the temp dial ~10 times when replacing the battery. I'm getting 2 good chambers on one battery, and it is performing I'd say at a good 80-90% still. (much better than the maybe 40% it was performing at for days before I figured this out). I'm now many days of usage since getting this working again, and still going strong while waiting for my SS RMA to return.

This has had me thinking about why this works and what is going on? I think a lot of the issues are indeed in this temp control (just a hypothesis). Now for some math:

The GH has a 45W heater, so at peak it could be drawing 10.7-11.8 amps @ 4.2-3.8V. This is a lot of current to put through that dial switch ... if this heats anything up in there and creates some tarnish or other such things reducing conduction, thus worsening the issues, the ability to draw the required current would suffer. The batteries would get pushed harder, the heater would get less current and be overworked, and a lot of the power would be lost to heat. The kicker here is that the worse it gets the quicker it gets even worse!

So to translate this to my situation, at it's worst, the back-end, and everything in consequence, got really hot. A battery wouldn't even really last a session. The flickering blue lights started (lack of power to heater). etc. etc.

So why did rotating the dial over and over and over until it smoothed out work?

My theory here is that perhaps there is some build-up inside the dial switch on the potentiometer switch surface ... so this creates the conduction issues, which result in under current issues and excessive heat. Rotating the dial many times until it smooths out works because it is "scraping" away the build-up on the surface with the switch contact. It smooths out when the build-up is mostly gone. Then when you use it again, the potentiometer has good contact between the contact and the surface, and everything works as expected with normal heat and proper performance.

The issue I see with this is you are wearing down your switch a lot through the action of using it to do the scraping/cleaning; which means it will fail way too quickly (although if you have to do this it's really already failed so you are just extending it's life somewhat).

Keep in mind ... this is merely a hypothesis grounded in no more than observation and a small amount of electronics knowledge. Without being able to look inside the switch it really can't be proven. Contact cleaner of some sort sprayed in the dial I imagine might fix it much better, but I'm not sure if that's a good idea, or which ones would be safe, etc.
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
@Ratchett ... a thought on the mouthpiece screen ... do you think you could design and have made a SS 3-prong tool to remove/insert mouthpiece screens? (really just a round disc w/ 3 small rods sticking out the bottom and a handle on top (if you can't picture it I could draw it--badly--and scan it) ... just something I was thinking about :)

I think the tool you're asking for needs to be made of metal. I don't think plastic would be up to the task. I find precision tweezers work fine, but can understand the preference for a tripod. But I think that would have to be designed with a screen in hand so that each point would hit an opening.

Maybe some type of jeweler tool would meet your needs?
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I think the tool you're asking for needs to be made of metal. I don't think plastic would be up to the task. I find precision tweezers work fine, but can understand the preference for a tripod. But I think that would have to be designed with a screen in hand so that each point would hit an opening.

Maybe some type of jeweler tool would meet your needs?
I realize it would have to be metal (note the "SS"). @Ratchett gets other vape tools 3D printed out of SS. You are correct that one would need a screen, or a print of one to build the tool.
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Ratchett ... a thought on the mouthpiece screen ... do you think you could design and have made a SS 3-prong tool to remove/insert mouthpiece screens? (really just a round disc w/ 3 small rods sticking out the bottom and a handle on top (if you can't picture it I could draw it--badly--and scan it) ... just something I was thinking about :)

Alas, I've tried to make this tool! Sadly the metal 3D printing technology I have access to currently is limited, the minimum wall thickness is roughly 2.5x thicker than the space necessary for the tool bits needed to grip the SS screen. There is a high-tech metal 3D printer on the market capable of 3D printing the part I need, but each print would cost me roughly $95 per print (that's my cost, no markup!) :bang:
 

slcbdco

Brewer, Lobbyist, Vaporist

luke00978

Well-Known Member
being so far away from the usa havent been able to purchase any accessories from delta as i cant justify the cost, just had a spare 10 mins and some inclination and knocked up this...

wood 14mm bit, 12.5mm bit and 6-6.5mm bit is all thats required, now can load the thing without holding it!

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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
being so far away from the usa havent been able to purchase any accessories from delta as i cant justify the cost, just had a spare 10 mins and some inclination and knocked up this...

wood 14mm bit, 12.5mm bit and 6-6.5mm bit is all thats required, now can load the thing without holding it!

7yK5khu.jpg
You could really use the funnel and leather case though too! :lol:
 

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
@JCat - the UPS tracking was turned over to USPS and finally canpost and it just showed up today, so super quick compared to last time, but still in the dark without tracking past border. Hope you get yours soon bro!

Both RMA GH's are working flawlessly (bodies)...one had straight-to-blue and the other coplights and both were repaired, not replaced!
 

kbrown5523

Hopping in Washington
Not that i'm aware of. I always recommend getting two! In all seriousness, I have two, (one beta and one normal) and I suppose it will be convenient at some point to have two, just like it's convenient to have two grasshopppers for guests or whatever but I think most people will get by fine with 1.
I just ordered one to be shipped with my return RMA's and it's driving me nuts. I really don't want to spend the extra $30 to get two, but I really want two. I kind of wish they would've stuck with just the WPA and made it $15.00-$20.00. I only use my hoppers with water anyway.
 

Vape Dr.

Well-Known Member
Hello all!

So I have been testing the newest 2017 Titanium and Stainless steel Grasshoppers.

A few things I want to point out from my 3 previous Hoppers from IG to now:

-Original hoppers were said to have a 30 watt oven, new units now have 45 watt heaters.
-The new SS is much cooler than the original SS in draw and body heat.
-I noticed the new Ti Hoppers run cooler than previous Ti Hopppers as well.
-My Ti heats up 1/2 seconds faster than my SS
-The lights are more distinct on the new Hoppers and easier to see than original units.
-I run my Ti at a lower temp than my SS with equal results.
-GHB2 batteries last much longer


A few suggestions so you might not have to RMA your Hopper.

-first and foremost the battery.

I have a feeling that a lot of RMAs might be avoided by proper insertion of the battery as dumb as this may sound.

The positive battery makes contact with the heaters circuit board to make a connection.

I have seen people drop their battery in their vapes, Hoppers as well.

Do not drop your battery in your hopper!!!

I think dropping the battery in the Hopper could damage or possibly crack the circuit board if dropped in hard or too many times. It could also possibly damage the Positive battery terminal.

I like to lay my Hopper on its side and slide the battery in gently then install the back end.

When the back end completes the circuit through the battery the red light will "flick on" for a second, you know it made a connection. Now you have a connection do not over tighten the back end.

There are no springs or buffer on either side of the battery so be careful not to over tighten.

-Second suggestion

Try to find a temp you like and keep it there.

Mine are 3 1/3 on the Ti and 3.5 on the SS when using dry.

When you turn the temperature dial the gold disk on the inside for the negative terminal rotates with the temp control.
The tighter the back end is on the more pressure is put on the battery and the circuit board.

I know this is not ideal, but when I do adjust temps I loosen my back end a bit to relieve some pressure, adjust the temp, and tighten.

-Third suggestion
After using my hopper, once I empty the chamber and brush it out I like to take deep draws with the MP off to keep any particulates from going through the screen into the unit.
This may just my OCD talking but I have had many vapes last very long times simply by keeping then clean.


Sorry if I sound preachy I just wanted to give my thoughts on how to possibly prolong your Hoppers life.

The Grasshopper IS an electronic device so it will not last forever it will inevitably need serviced at some point.


Sorry for the long post...

:peace:
 
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