Discontinued The Grasshopper

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
"Hey caroline I beat and slapped that bitch hopper and now it is working again"

Waaaay too many people take his installment as permission to talk this way and to threaten women and it's really totally NOT ok. You can speak however you want "at home" but turn it off here, please.

He was talking about the Grasshopper :lmao:
 

btka

Well-Known Member
I didn't say anything the first time but I gotta call ya on this. That language sounds way too much like the recently anointed US Gropenfuhrer. Waaaay too many people take his installment as permission to talk this way and to threaten women and it's really totally NOT ok. You can speak however you want "at home" but turn it off here, please.



Please don't. That was some very important shit that went down on Saturday. All over the world. Thanks.

I was talking about my gh... NEVER EVER BEAT OR SLAP WOMEN!!!!!!!! RESPECT WOMEN... I RESPECT WOMEN!

Sorry if this was missunderstood... as you maybe recognized english is not my mothertongue... but I thought bitch can be used for women and men

where would we be without women?

BTW I still have to send the gh to hl because the vapor production is more then very thin and the herb stays green, although my gh does not turn immideatly blue and heats up vapor production is weaker then weak...
 
Last edited:

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
He was talking about the Grasshopper :lmao:

Yes, I know. :doh: My point was about "destructive" language being used so that it becomes normalized. It's especially insidious when it's used out of context. "I wasn't talking about women, I was talking about..." but if a woman who had been physically abused had read that, I wonder if she would see it as OK.

Sorry if this was missunderstood... as you maybe recognized english is not my mothertongue... but I thought bitch can be used for women and men

I did recognize that. Still needed to speak up. We're cool.

While I really wish I wouldn't have to read ANY political content in a vaporizer site.
Just crazy me....what can I say.

Understood. And I really wish I wouldn't have to read any language that could be construed as misogynist violence. So, as responsible community members we make our wishes known as constructively as we can. And we move on.

Anyway, I gave my SS a good thorough blu-tacking because I was noticing that every time I unscrewed my mouthpiece (even with an empty chamber) the body threads would show lots of debris. I didn't pull off too much gunk but I'm guessing there's enough stuff up near the screen to leave some on the threads. So now I'm giving my SS mouthpiece a good long iso soak. I'm tempted to take an iso damp Q-tip to the chamber (holding it upside down, of course) but GHL's admonition against that has got me spooked.
 

Icon13

Serial Vapist
BTW I am always trying to keep my hopper in a position like this...





because I have observed resin is coming out of the tip of my mp and always worried if i would keep it in the other direction this resin maybe will run in the heater or gunk up a sensor...



next time i will put a parchment paper there to collect the resin... so the hopper does also a sort of rosin oil haaaaaaahaaa
but after all all this babying did not help keeping my hoppers working!!!!!!!

BTW HL responded to my warranty claim and want me to send in the whole hopper with charger and battery as it seems they have changed their warranty policy and are not sending anymore replacement parts and you have to send back your broken part when you receive it yehhh until now 70 euros costs sending them my broken ghs... and the costs doubled after they want me to send in the whole gh, charger and battery normally I paid 10 euros sending them the broken body only... but the charger is too big and if I am sending it like they asked for I pay now 20 euros... ok find away to send it with the charger for 10 euros then the 20 euros, will send it in a bubble bag without the original packaging this time...

I actually told them that I refused to send in my charger or any batteries. I don't use the charger included with the grasshopper, so why would I send it in to them? Also, my issues happen with all four batteries. All four batteries are 4.15V when fully charged according to my multimeter. Of course, it was also very obvious the issue was sensor damage once again.

I actually find it ridiculous that they ask people, with very little battery knowledge for the most part, to send lithium batteries in an envelope with a metal object. Do they realize how potentially dangerous this can be? Unless your issue is battery-related, I don't think they should be asking anybody to send lithium batteries in the mail unless they explain the dangers and a proper method of packing those battery safely to begin with. Shipping it with the battery inside of the unit is not a good option either.
 
Last edited:

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Yes, I know. :doh: My point was about "destructive" language being used so that it becomes normalized. It's especially insidious when it's used out of context. "I wasn't talking about women, I was talking about..." but if a woman who had been physically abused had read that, I wonder if she would see it as OK.



I did recognize that. Still needed to speak up. We're cool.



Understood. And I really wish I wouldn't have to read any language that could be construed as misogynist violence. So, as responsible community members we make our wishes known as constructively as we can. And we move on.

Anyway, I gave my SS a good thorough blu-tacking because I was noticing that every time I unscrewed my mouthpiece (even with an empty chamber) the body threads would show lots of debris. I didn't pull off too much gunk but I'm guessing there's enough stuff up near the screen to leave some on the threads. So now I'm giving my SS mouthpiece a good long iso soak. I'm tempted to take an iso damp Q-tip to the chamber (holding it upside down, of course) but GHL's admonition against that has got me spooked.
When I ISO soak, I do it in a Baggie and drop the Baggie in a glass of super hot water. I've also used precision q-tips inside the mouthpiece after the soak to get those interior threads. I give it a dip in ISO first
 

VAPEHUNTER

Well-Known Member
A big thank you to @McQuack for the GH stand idea he posted here The Grasshopper stand .

I got bored this weekend and decided to use some of my nice Amboyna Burl wood to try making a desk stand for my GH.
Sorry for the HUGE pics, was trying to show off the wood grain.

VobCZUk.jpg


AAudMgk.jpg


tMBGRl0.jpg


VWVlIRH.jpg


hgSkkpn.jpg
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
I actually told them that I refused to send in my charger or any batteries. I don't use the charger included with the grasshopper, so why would I send it in to them? Also, my issues happen with all four batteries. All four batteries are 4.15V when fully charged according to my multimeter. Of course, it was also very obvious the issue was sensor damage once again.

I actually find it ridiculous that they ask people, with very little battery knowledge for the most part, to send lithium batteries in an envelope with a metal object. Do they realize how potentially dangerous this can be? Unless your issue is battery-related, I don't think they should be asking anybody to send lithium batteries in the mail unless they explain the dangers and a proper method of sending those battery safely to begin with. Shipping it with the battery inside of it is not a good option either.

Agreed. I sent both my charger and the battery with mine even though I've never used the charger once. I put the battery and hopper in separate bubble wrap bags inside the envelope. (I'll probably politely decline to send the charger next time they ask.) When they sent the unit back, the battery was inside the hopper but the mouthpiece was off and packed separately. Without the mouthpiece on there's no complete circuit and therefore no danger? (Asking because I really don't know.)

When I ISO soak, I do it in a Baggie and drop the Baggie in a glass of super hot water. I've also used precision q-tips inside the mouthpiece after the soak to get those interior threads. I give it a dip in ISO first

I may give these ideas a try next time.

A big thank you to @McQuack for the GH stand idea he posted here The Grasshopper stand .

I got bored this weekend and decided to use some of my nice Amboyna Burl wood to try making a desk stand for my GH.

Nicely done!!!! :tup::clap: What's the second smaller hole for?
 

btka

Well-Known Member
A big thank you to @McQuack for the GH stand idea he posted here The Grasshopper stand .

I got bored this weekend and decided to use some of my nice Amboyna Burl wood to try making a desk stand for my GH.
Sorry for the HUGE pics, was trying to show off the wood grain.

VobCZUk.jpg


AAudMgk.jpg


tMBGRl0.jpg


VWVlIRH.jpg


hgSkkpn.jpg
looks really nice but I would be afraid of resin flowing in the heater or sensor for reference what I mean:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-grasshopper.18482/page-585#post-1075734

@Icon13 said:
I actually told them that I refused to send in my charger or any batteries. I don't use the charger included with the grasshopper, so why would I send it in to them? Also, my issues happen with all four batteries. All four batteries are 4.15V when fully charged according to my multimeter. Of course, it was also very obvious the issue was sen

I actually find it ridiculous that they ask people, with very little battery knowledge for the most part, to send lithium batteries in an envelope with a metal object. Do they realize how potentially dangerous this can be? Unless your issue is battery-related, I don't think they should be asking anybody to send lithium batteries in the mail unless they explain the dangers and a proper method of sending those battery safely to begin with. Shipping it with the battery inside of it is not a good option either.
@moondog

HL asked me today to send the battery inside my hopper...
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
looks really nice but I would be afraid of resin flowing in the heater or sensor for reference what I mean:

So that resin dripping can happen when the hopper is cool and dry, not just after cleaning? I've never seen anything like that on mine.

HL asked me today to send the battery inside my hopper...

Wow, I wonder how that's supposed to work. When I take my packages to the PO the postmaster/mistress always asks to make sure there are no L-ion batteries in there. This last time I said yes but that it was packaged separately from anything else and that the company had sent me the batteries in a package that got to me from CO in 2 days so it must have come by air. She said OK and off it went. But shipping it IN the hopper? Did they tell you to leave the mouthpiece off? That's what they did when they shipped mine back with the battery inside the hopper.
 

btka

Well-Known Member
So that resin dripping can happen when the hopper is cool and dry, not just after cleaning? I've never seen anything like that on mine.



Wow, I wonder how that's supposed to work. When I take my packages to the PO the postmaster/mistress always asks to make sure there are no L-ion batteries in there. This last time I said yes but that it was packaged separately from anything else and that the company had sent me the batteries in a package that got to me from CO in 2 days so it must have come by air. She said OK and off it went. But shipping it IN the hopper? Did they tell you to leave the mouthpiece off? That's what they did when they shipped mine back with the battery inside the hopper.

do not know if the resin would drip when the hopper is totaly cool... but it is dripping for sure when I put it in the gh box (like seen in the pictures) after taking a few hits and think also when it is just warm...
But it could be if you charge it that it gets warm and the resin could drip into heater and so on...

They never asked me at the post office if I am sending a battery...
No HL did not tell me to let the moutpiece off... but the moutpiece does not have something to do with the circuiit... you can turn the gh on without the mouthpiece...
 
Last edited:

Icon13

Serial Vapist
I don't think the mouthpiece bring on our off completes the circuit. I just find it to be a much better option to bubble wrap the battery separate if you are going to send it in. The odds or that nothing will happen, but what if your package is mishandled? What I mean is, it could get damaged or dropped. I don't find having it in the device to be the best of options, but I'm not trying to get everybody to panic here.

As a matter of fact, at my post office when you ship something you have to use a touch screen with a stylus and one of the questions that it asks you is if there's any lithium batteries inside of your package. I checked no because I did not send my battery. However, I'm not sure what they would say had I checked yes. Perhaps they would just make sure that it was packaged correctly had I checked yes. This is not really a hopper Labs problem, but more or electronic industry issue in general.
 
Last edited:

Gramin

Well-Known Member
Having an awful time getting my battery order shipped. After paying $45 USD shipping you'd expect some sort of prompt delivery... Last contact with Caroline she blamed DHL and said she'd look into it. Just sent a 2nd email to try and get the tracking number.

If they don't have batteries to ship or some other reason I wish they'd be up front about it.
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Very nice, @VAPEHUNTER , dressing up the @McQuack stand. Trippy grain swirls.:cool:
I see little feet in corners, right? antislip?
Don't suppose you could make another...?

But, I'd like the second hole to be a bit larger and to the side.
A resting place for the mouthpiece, pointy side up.
Users like me with Tichillum or glass cooling extensions need a standing spot while attached to the mouthpiece.
This takes care of @btka 's concern with possible resin flows.

Want it to the side so GH body can still rock back.
Don't need a separate non-charging stand hole.
I use countdown timers, so can leave GH body attached to charging plug.

Maybe a third utility hole for poker and Fran Wilson Precision Nail Tees.
@VAPEHUNTER , gimme a $number.:drool::wave:
 

VAPEHUNTER

Well-Known Member
looks really nice but I would be afraid of resin flowing in the heater or sensor for reference what I mean...

So that resin dripping can happen when the hopper is cool and dry, not just after cleaning? I've never seen anything like that on mine.

do not know if the resin would drip when the hopper is totaly cool... but it is dripping for sure when I put it in the gh box (like seen in the pictures) after taking a few hits and think also when it is just warm...
But it could be if you charge it that it gets warm and the resin could drip into heater and so on...QUOTE]

I'm not really to concerned about resin dripping into my GH. I completely disassemble my mouthpiece to clean it at least once, sometimes twice a week and the only resin I notice only builds up a little on the tip.
But thanks for the heads up, I'll keep my eyes on my GH to make sure it doesn't get "gunked" up.

Very nice, @VAPEHUNTER , dressing up the @McQuack stand. Trippy grain swirls.:cool:
I see little feet in corners, right? antislip?
Don't suppose you could make another...?

But, I'd like the second hole to be a bit larger and to the side.
A resting place for the mouthpiece, pointy side up.
Users like me with Tichillum or glass cooling extensions need a standing spot while attached to the mouthpiece.
This takes care of @btka 's concern with possible resin flows.

Want it to the side so GH body can still rock back.
Don't need a separate non-charging stand hole.
I use countdown timers, so can leave GH body attached to charging plug.

Maybe a third utility hole for poker and Fran Wilson Precision Nail Tees.
@VAPEHUNTER , gimme a $number.:drool::wave:

Oh man, I'm flattered, really. But that's quite a tall order. I'm really not that great of a wood worker. If you look really closely you can see some chips in the wood.
I don't think I would ever get it to pass my own personal QC to actually charge you your hard earned $$$.
 

armani

Professional Stoner
Last night my hopper got defective after a while of hot back end and poor performance and flickering blue light, now i got the cop lights (red/blue)
I have tried every tips out there but it looks like i need to send it for warranty, but i'm afraid that will take months....

Worth buying another? or just go with another brand.... Pain in the ass using my EQ compared to how easy life was with the hopper :(
 

little maggie

Well-Known Member
Last night my hopper got defective after a while of hot back end and poor performance and flickering blue light, now i got the cop lights (red/blue)
I have tried every tips out there but it looks like i need to send it for warranty, but i'm afraid that will take months....

Worth buying another? or just go with another brand.... Pain in the ass using my EQ compared to how easy life was with the hopper :(
I'm trying to decide whether to buy one. It seems there are a lot of problems with them but don't they come with a warranty?
I find the EQ simple with ddave mods but you might check out the milaana for a simple vape.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
BE CAREFUL with PBW with coloured hopper mouthpieces!!!!!
I would limit soak times to 5 minutes (10 minutes at a MAXIMUM, but that is probably unnecessary anyway).

My recommended procedure as it stands, I'm still experimenting (and I hardly clean my mouthpieces, it's happening tomorrow though, plus I think I have two loose screens to deal with)
  1. Hot water rinse. Hold the MP under a running hot tape, use a scraping tool to rid the screen of the bigger chunks of gunk. You can get a little gunk out from the mouthpiece hole too.
  2. Add boiling (from kettle) water to a glass with a 1/4 tsp PBW (concentration is high at this level, so between a 1/6-1/2 teaspoon is good, it really won't make a lot of difference either way [perhaps])
  3. Soak for 1 minute, take out and repeat step 1. Using a pipe cleaner to scrub is effective.
  4. repeat step 3 until clean
  5. Rinse (hold under running water for 30 seconds, make sure to flush the top end thoroughly
  6. Blow air through either end to dispel water, and let it sit to allow the mouthpiece to dry
74711a9278.png

I'm going to go ahead and say AVOID PBW with coloured hoppers

All the pieces in the pic were once the same colour, now I have a really awesome gold and I've started to discolour my other mouthpiece too.

I think my recommendation of 1/4 teaspoon is too much, I didn't soak either of these MP's long at all (except for the gold one, which was mostly affected last time I cleaned it).
I think a 1/10th tsp would be a better concentration, but possibly less again would be better.

Anyway, I gave the mouthpieces a dunk in my PBW solution for about 30s-1min a pop after a hot water rinse and scrape.
I took them out after less than a minute and hot water rinsed for a bit, then replaced them in solution.
After the second rinse, they were very clean, there were still minor traces of resin and gunk in the threads and conical section, but after this very short amount of time (from reasonably dirty MPs) most was gone. Stirring the PBW solution will help get rid of more than this, but I was trying to keep soak times at a minimum.

After I'd PBW'd I used a tiny bit of IPA to dissolve the remaining resin. Filling the MP halfway with IPA over a sink with a thumb over the MP hole and a bunch of shaking, with both ends sealed, caused the MP to become almost entirely clean. I couldn't get any more resin out with a cloth or tooth pick, scraping around either side of the screen.
The whole process took about 3 minutes, but I have allowed over half an hour for drying.
It's vital to blow through the MP from the hopper end to help it dry, a fair bit of liquid gets partially trapped in there.


I also had to use fine-nose tweezers to screw either screen down so it would tighten flush with the hopper body.
What a pain! The GH should definitely have come with a screen tool, tweezers are bullshit.
They work, but not as easily as a proper tool would (a tool would be mindlessly easy compared to the fiddly and time consuming tweezer method).

Overall, all I can say is it makes a lot of practical sense to stick with the bare metal finished hoppers, so you can more easily soak the MPs with solution that actually works.
IPA as a rinsing medium is much better suited, and overall it makes the maintenance as simple as it could be.

I also just plucked a very old lump of blue tack off the wall and used it to clean the threads.
Now back to business
 

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
I'm not really to concerned about resin dripping into my GH. I completely disassemble my mouthpiece to clean it at least once, sometimes twice a week and the only resin I notice only builds up a little on the tip.
But thanks for the heads up, I'll keep my eyes on my GH to make sure it doesn't get "gunked" up.

Mirrors my experience....all this talk and anxiety about resin in the heater, I use kief, fine grind, etc. and when I load I tap the edges so if anything it's going in the heater and no issues (well except for the blue light no heat sensor issue just that one time! lol)

Last night my hopper got defective after a while of hot back end and poor performance and flickering blue light, now i got the cop lights (red/blue)

My two newer hoppers are like a guessing game whether they will work properly for the first hit, and hot backend, poor performance and flickering blue are the name of the game. Hope the cop lights don't come next, or maybe I do?

Hehe I was meaning your new home :p

hahaha, yeah that's going to be something..... hope to have a dedicated area just for videos! lol

I'm trying to decide whether to buy one. It seems there are a lot of problems with them but don't they come with a warranty?

Yes, LIFETIME. It's just that it becomes a pain in the ass when it's one RMA after another. I've had a few experiences, now 3 hoppers out of the box with issues, and one RMA returned still broken. Fortunately I purchased a couple of used ones from members here that have just been awesome.

Unless you're willing to play the warranty game and put up with shit, I would look elsewhere.

I fucking wish I could tell you otherwise!
 
Last edited:

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Ouch!

PBW does a tremendous job on all my equipment. Better than ISO.
Just remember to use a glass container for the PBW mixture.
DO NOT USE A METAL CONTAINER! When I soaked my titanium mp in a stainless steel bowl, it discolored my mouthpiece where it touched the metal.
did it affect the stainless?

I've heard PBW can take off Ti signatures on glass, and also when I got a Silver fumed banger hanger, I was told that PBW can strip the silver from the glass also
 
MoltenTiger,
Top Bottom