Discontinued The Grasshopper

[kilo]

If you have to draw for 15 seconds with the power on high your Hopper is not working right. Power on, blue lights, draw 6 seconds, power off, draw 6 more. Vapor is warm but not ridiculously harsh.

Yes, this is my experience as well. I normally use a j-hook at home but when I'm on the move I just adapt my toking style to the situation.

 

[muunch]

If you have to draw for 15 seconds with the power on high your Hopper is not working right. Power on, blue lights, draw 6 seconds, power off, draw 6 more. Vapor is warm but not ridiculously harsh.

this is exactly right.

there is plenty of power to roast the entire chamber before the unit has the chance to get hot.

consider looking at the 5 tips and tricks on the Hopper website

https://streamable.com/9ymi4

 

[Shrike]

Not sure anyone with a pre-order said they could not get a refund, @Hopper Labs

It is we, who gave you our money for your Indiegogo campaign that were told by your staff that refunds were out of the question for Ti/SS Cases.

Has that changed? If so, I'd be glad to contact you to arrange a refund. Let us all know...thanks!

 

[Raf]

I don't think this is the case.
Having multiple hoppers has allowed me to try different combinations and before I even make warranty claims I can typically narrow it down to a back end or a body-related issue. Most times I've waited for a replacement back-end for the Green Ti, I'm still able to use its' body with a different back end on it. When a replacement comes, it has typically worked for a few weeks before getting weird and unreliable. This is the only one of 5 hoppers (for me) that has had serious back-end issues, and I have to assume a bunch of green back ends (maybe others...) had some amount of bad parts go into them.

That's interesting. I've only had one colored back end and the matching body overheats badly. But when I tried swapping other back ends didn't seem to make any difference. I also don't notice any difference between swapping out different back ends on different bodies I must just be lucky when it comes to all of the back end seeming to work fine unless I drop them hard. before giving my friend the 'slapped together from spare parts + new body unit' I tested to make sure that the stainless back-end I was giving him didn't result in different function compared to a TI back-end which I didn't really want to give up an extra of. Worked the same. Feel lucky I never had a green back end!

you have to read what I write... the vapor is harsh (on throat) ... I am not complaining that the mouthpiece gets too hot..

cooling down the unit only helps cooling down mouthpiece not against harsh vapor...

the matter why the vapor is harsh is because heating element herb and mouthpiece are very near... no cooling path for vapor...

If you can take comfortably a huge draw from mouthpiece of hopper without feeling a bite in your throat then you have an iron throat or your hopper is running cold... otherwise I want tosee a video... you taking 15 sec. draw on hopper temp 5 native wihtout glass...

It just kind of works too well for its own good in terms of producing hot vapor. Using a small chillum or even just a extender type glass adapter really makes a massive difference both by cooling the vapor with a very short path to avoid condensation, but also acting as a heat sink since the glass absorbs heat from the metal and dissipates it into the air over a larger surface area

Otherwise you're basically going to get one cool hit between letting the device cool down completely. Air conditioning vent in the car can be useful for this if you're using legal aromatherapy herbs since you should not ever drive under the influence of anything. Can use the AC vent to get the mouthpiece really cold which has obvious advantages

 

[NOLOGO]

Using a small chillum or even just a extender type glass adapter really makes a massive difference both by cooling the vapor with a very short path to avoid condensation, but also acting as a heat sink since the glass absorbs heat from the metal and dissipates it into the air over a larger surface area

I use a small standard-sized metal drip-tip that fits snugly in the PFE. This is the ONLY way I am able to take hits from my hopper without running it through water. I used to use a crafty cooling unit contraption, but it's just gets too gunky and stinky, and looks sketch. I even at one point had a 3inch long drip tip that EXACTLY matched the taper off the PFE, but wouldnt fit in my case. The short drip tip lives on my PFE when I travel.

 

[muunch]

I use a small standard-sized metal drip-tip that fits snugly in the PFE. This is the ONLY way I am able to take hits from my hopper without running it through water. I used to use a crafty cooling unit contraption, but it's just gets too gunky and stinky, and looks sketch. I even at one point had a 3inch long drip tip that EXACTLY matched the taper off the PFE, but wouldnt fit in my case. The short drip tip lives on my PFE when I travel.

Got link or pic?

I still think PFE is fine native but I am curious

 

[Vaporific]

Got link or pic?

I still think PFE is fine native but I am curious

I guess I’m old school and minimalist at heart: still use the standard mouthpiece sans silicone tip in the 2’s temp-wise, and all is good. If vapor gets too hot I just turn down the temp a bit but not much. I did buy a new and my second overall silicone tip recently, used it once and put it away for a rainy day. I’ll use it again eventually. It helps mating the standard frontend to glass, which I don’t use often. That’s just me...

 

[slozukimc]

I guess I’m old school and minimalist at heart: still use the standard mouthpiece sans silicone tip in the 2’s temp-wise, and all is good. If vapor gets too hot I just turn down the temp a bit but not much. I did buy a new and my second overall silicone tip recently, used it once and put it away for a rainy day. I’ll use it again eventually. It helps mating the standard frontend to glass, which I don’t use often. That’s just me...

All of this talk of running the Hopper on 2 makes me think MAN that is a lot of cannabinoids not being vaped.

 

[Raf]

All of this talk of running the Hopper on 2 makes me think MAN that is a lot of cannabinoids not being vaped.

you don't get all the lavender essential oils either, from one or two low temp inhale. But if you keep repeating on 2, eventually what comes out smells bad when crushed (the indicator of 'done' abv). Another good indicator that the load is done is if it just kind of releases itself out of the device when inverted. If my loose pack of lavender is still stuck inside then that means there's enough oils or resins or whatever remaining for another hit on 2..

 

[slozukimc]

you don't get all the lavender essential oils either, from one or two low temp inhale. But if you keep repeating on 2, eventually what comes out smells bad when crushed (the indicator of 'done' abv). Another good indicator that the load is done is if it just kind of releases itself out of the device when inverted. If my loose pack of lavender is still stuck inside then that means there's enough oils or resins or whatever remaining for another hit on 2..

I haven’t a clue about lavender but if my herb is still green then it ain’t done. 2 isn’t gonna do that unless the temp dial means nothing more than a marker.

 

[muunch]

I guess I’m old school and minimalist at heart: still use the standard mouthpiece sans silicone tip in the 2’s temp-wise, and all is good. If vapor gets too hot I just turn down the temp a bit but not much. I did buy a new and my second overall silicone tip recently, used it once and put it away for a rainy day. I’ll use it again eventually. It helps mating the standard frontend to glass, which I don’t use often. That’s just me...

I've been using just PFE since receiving it.

I usually am around 3.6-3.8 (just shy of max) and can kill a bowl in 1 hit comfortably. I've posted some videos to demonstrate.

Just curious about other options.

 

[Vaporific]

I haven’t a clue about lavender but if my herb is still green then it ain’t done. 2 isn’t gonna do that unless the temp dial means nothing more than a marker.

My usual temp is 2.6-2.9. After 2-3 draws AVB IS usually golden brown and easily drops down into the chamber. When a batt is low is when these usual results let up a bit and then I swap in another and finish the load. And I don’t use lavender but cool with those who do...

 

[Raf]

I haven’t a clue about lavender but if my herb is still green then it ain’t done. 2 isn’t gonna do that unless the temp dial means nothing more than a marker.

If 2 won't eventually go from green to gold or brown, then 2 runs too cold on your device to be used. My units from 2016-2017ish can make gold on 2 but require a longer heat up and multiple hits. New unit from late this year makes gold on 1 with 1-2 seconds of heat up. On two it will make brown after repeated hits with short preheats. On 4+ It fully extracts to dark brown from one long pull

I like to be able to get more than one pull with good flavor per load

 

[slozukimc]

Don’t certain cannabinoids require a certain temp to vaporize? Are you saying your Hopper reaches these temps even on 2? That seems like the temp specs @Hopper Labs have posted for each setting are wrong?

 

[Raf]

Don’t certain cannabinoids require a certain temp to vaporize? Are you saying your Hopper reaches these temps even on 2? That seems like the temp specs @Hopper Labs have posted for each setting are wrong?

it seems to me like not all of the dials are calibrated to the same temperatures. Or, more likely, not all of the body units respond with the same temperature when the same dial setting is applied. 100% for sure older units run colder, and I have one malfunctioning unit in purple that chars on setting one

very gentle pull on lowest setting makes green "abv" with black edges

Yeah,I forgot they even climbed out on a limb to state what line equates to what temp. You gotta love how optimistic they are LOL

 

[btka]

this is exactly right.

there is plenty of power to roast the entire chamber before the unit has the chance to get hot.

consider looking at the 5 tips and tricks on the Hopper website

https://streamable.com/9ymi4

thank you that was an interesting test... wanted to always know how hot the vapor is of vapes... one question was the sensor of thermocouple right in fron of the pfe where the hot air enters your mouth... because I suggest it is a stream of hot air... and if the thermo couple is in your mouth but not in front of the stream of hot air the test would not be correct...

would like to see this test with other vapes like crafty, mighty, furry and so...
for me the vapor at 5 is hot ... my throat starts to burn... and I also tried it with pfe... crafty with cooling unit was not doing that for example, also when I remember right furry did not do that...

 

[muunch]

thank you that was an interesting test... wanted to always know how hot the vapor is of vapes... one question was the sensor of thermocouple right in fron of the pfe where the hot air enters your mouth... because I suggest it is a stream of hot air... and if the thermo couple is in your mouth but not in front of the stream of hot air the test would not be correct...

would like to see this test with other vapes like crafty, mighty, furry and so...
for me the vapor at 5 is hot ... my throat starts to burn... and I also tried it with pfe... crafty with cooling unit was not doing that for example, also when I remember right furry did not do that...

Ah, yeah... I was originally trying to stick the probe directly into the PFE but couldn't fit it comfortably.

I can shoot another video with a few more tests (so it's more than just a single anecdote...) if people actually think it provides useful information.

I also plan to get an IR camera so I can get some videos showing the Hoppers and their temps. Theoretically a Hopper on an empty waterpipe could work, using that setup.

 

[Vaporific]

it seems to me like not all of the dials are calibrated to the same temperatures. Or, more likely, not all of the body units respond with the same temperature when the same dial setting is applied.

This worries me and implicates the historical quality control issues with respect to performance. And as I’ve been harping on batteries in general as of late (well, for a while actually - lol) there’s variability with those as well.

HOWEVER when the Hopper works well and consistently well, it simply works well!

 

[Raf]

This worries me and implicates the historical quality control issues with respect to performance. And as I’ve been harping on batteries in general as of late (well, for a while actually - lol) there’s variability with those as well.

HOWEVER when the Hopper works well and consistently well, it simply works well!

After further consideration, it seems like it has to be the bodies that don't respond with the same output temp, because when I tried using different back ends on the overheating purple body it did exactly the same thing regardless of what back-end I used.

As far as the batteries I can tell you that for some reason a brand new battery doesn't seem to make any difference for me in terms of pairing line settings with outcome color of abv

 

[maxvapor710]

After further consideration, it seems like it has to be the bodies that don't respond with the same output temp, because when I tried using different back ends on the overheating purple body it did exactly the same thing regardless of what back-end I used.

As far as the batteries I can tell you that for some reason a brand new battery doesn't seem to make any difference for me in terms of pairing line settings with outcome color of abv

The actual temperature adjustment in the backend is pretty simple, mechanically speaking.
I would suspect any temperature issues to rely in the body / heater side of things.

The ring surrounding the negative battery terminal on the backend is magnetic,
just underneath the brass battery terminal is a Hall Effect Sensor.

This sensor provides a reading to the microcontroller in the backend with the angle position
of the dial. Once the plunger is pressed, the microcontroller tells the MOSFET in the backend
to start clamping to ground so that the frontend electronics start receiving power and do their thing.

 

[NOLOGO]

Got link or pic?

I still think PFE is fine native but I am curious

I'm not good at posting pics here, but let's see...



edit: I can't find the tapered one mentioned previously

 

[Raf]

thank you that was an interesting test... wanted to always know how hot the vapor is of vapes... one question was the sensor of thermocouple right in fron of the pfe where the hot air enters your mouth... because I suggest it is a stream of hot air... and if the thermo couple is in your mouth but not in front of the stream of hot air the test would not be correct...

would like to see this test with other vapes like crafty, mighty, furry and so...
for me the vapor at 5 is hot ... my throat starts to burn... and I also tried it with pfe... crafty with cooling unit was not doing that for example, also when I remember right furry did not do that...

At whatever temperature setting you're using: after blue light, try waiting 5 full seconds, then immediately inhale slowly. the air entering the chamber will extract more efficiently but the mouthpiece won't have started heating up yet. Should be able to click off the heater about a 1-2 second after you start inhaling

Short puffs like a cigar inbetween deep, cumulative inhales filling up to your lung capacity will also mitigate throat scorch

 

[slozukimc]

The actual temperature adjustment in the backend is pretty simple, mechanically speaking.
I would suspect any temperature issues to rely in the body / heater side of things.

The ring surrounding the negative battery terminal on the backend is magnetic,
just underneath the brass battery terminal is a Hall Effect Sensor.

This sensor provides a reading to the microcontroller in the backend with the angle position
of the dial. Once the plunger is pressed, the microcontroller tells the MOSFET in the backend
to start clamping to ground so that the frontend electronics start receiving power and do their thing.

Could someone please repost the pic, or a link to it, of the back end taken apart? I am apparently overlooking it somewhere when I dig around.
Thank you!!!

 

[david8613]

I'm not good at posting pics here, but let's see...



edit: I can't find the tapered one mentioned previously

this is cool, where did you get that? I seen somewhere once a little glass mouth piece to but don't know where to get it.

I would like to see a pic of the grasshopper torn apart, I wanna see the guts!

 

[slozukimc]

https://imgur.com/a/8x69b5h

https://imgur.com/a/t8wu3X9

https://imgur.com/a/qrGOxjJ

https://i.imgur.com/An8Deax.jpg

Some Hopper vapor cooling options.