Discontinued The Grasshopper

[GreenHopper]

Lmao

Guess who's hopper gave them the munchies

They have different trucks all the time but there are a few Arepa trucks and I usually hit those up https://therayback.com/

Unfortunately the best I can hope for is something like this:

So I'll stick to my hopper and home made sandwiches.

 

[invertedisdead]

True. Though it's only been since the GH launched that box mods have had temperature/auxillary feedback loops, since the nicotine ejuice heads have prompted such large scale production to arrive at the feature being standardised.
It's given rise to the Splinter and Tubo Evic, but sure, the GHs heater and insulation would be upgrades for either design.

Yeah, most hoppers haven't been their true potential. If they can manage to deliver it, it might be worth revisiting.
Otherwise I'm with you and will move on to the Splinter.

FWIW if you really are getting 5 bowls per GH battery, I don't think the 18650 convection portables are really getting more than that; at least a single 18650 based design. Though I do love the idea of a 510 threaded GH atomizer if it could potentially be switched about from fixed internal battery mods (ultra compact) to multi cell 2-4x 18650 mods for home use. Super versatile. I feel similar about Splinter vs Zion. It's definitely cool that you can run the Splinter on a single cell mod, or a 4 cell mod, for capacity bested by even the Flagship Zion.

 

[Cheesequake]

Not sure if this is old news but HL is now directing people to blow out their hopper with compressed air if they're getting a temp sensor issue. I know it's been a user suggestion for quite a while now but I had never actually seen HL say to do it until now.

 

[buckhakeesah]

Where are they asking customers to blow the compressed air? Can you provide specifics? I'm getting intermittent cop lights, even with new batteries, but eventually it still ends up working after adjusting the dial back and forth a bit.

 

[Cheesequake]

Where are they asking customers to blow the compressed air? Can you provide specifics? I'm getting intermittent cop lights, even with new batteries, but eventually it still ends up working after adjusting the dial back and forth a bit.

Into the herb chamber and LED holes. Not sure if cop lights are temp sensor or not but worth a shot. I have a weird thing with my dial too where if I don't twist it back and forth it will flash blue, more heat will build up at the back end, and it won't produce much vapor. A couple back and forths on the back end and boom working like it should. Weirdest thing.

 

[vapviking]

Into the herb chamber and LED holes. Not sure if cop lights are temp sensor or not but worth a shot. I have a weird thing with my dial too where if I don't twist it back and forth it will flash blue, more heat will build up at the back end, and it won't produce much vapor. A couple back and forths on the back end and boom working like it should. Weirdest thing.

Imteresting that this is an official recommendation.
A couple pages back I had mentioned some other cleaning techniques to you. The 'soak in alcohol up-to-the-airholes was, I believe, from a HL suggestion a couple of years ago. (I know, years?!). We had had some, though a limited number of, stories of this working.

Your problem could also be a connectivity issue. Turning the clicker also turns the battery contact to which it's attached (on the back end), so you might look at that (and the contact down inside Hopper while you're at it) an give it a quick clean. Cleaning contacts on the batteries themselves might also help. For the contact on the back end itself, I believe it's also been suggested that you can refresh the surface by rubbing it very briefly with a piece of 600 grit emery paper.

As I mention all this, I'm also reminded that keeping back end treads clean (both male and female) helps keep good battery connectivity. Folks use Blu-tac for that. I use one called Stik-tac, a similar product made by, I believe, 3M.

 

[Baron23]

Into the herb chamber and LED holes. Not sure if cop lights are temp sensor or not but worth a shot. I have a weird thing with my dial too where if I don't twist it back and forth it will flash blue, more heat will build up at the back end, and it won't produce much vapor. A couple back and forths on the back end and boom working like it should. Weirdest thing.

Be careful with canned air. It almost all has a bitterant in there to keep people from trying to breath the stuff (which is right up there on incomprehensibility for me with eating Tide Pods? Why would you do either of these things??)

 

[Tranquility]

Be careful with canned air. It almost all has a bitterant in there to keep people from trying to breath the stuff (which is right up there on incomprehensibility for me with eating Tide Pods? Why would you do either of these things??)

 

[Copacetic]

LOL'd at "Tripping balls".

Well, I've not been here for a looong time, as my pre-order Hopper is still going strong (praise Odin).

Despite working flawlessly, I've always felt that the Hopper was missing one major feature, WOOD:

So I made myself these.
They're Teak, and a total b@~tard to machine.
I had to make a 'rolling carriage' for the bed of my lathe, as my drill-press only extends 50mm, no-where near enough to bore a hole the entire depth of the GH.

It worked, but I borked the fancy drill-bit I bought especially for the task (by forcing it into teak end-grain repeatedly , kept stalling my 370Watt lathe too!, which can't be good for it?)

Clearances are REALLY tight, as I wanted it to be as small as possible.
Failure happened more than success

Never mind, it was worth it.


I really liked my cheap plastic caddy from kfirrer, but I like to think this adds a little bit more class

I originally had plans to make some for sale, but the difficulty level, and tool attrition would almost certainly make them un-sellably expensive ( as compared to the price of other dugouts/stashes I've seen/owned )

I am interested though what folk here would consider a fair price for something like this?

Is this even something which interests you?
Or are you all already rocking fancy cases?

 

[Mr.Sifter]

Dynastash knockoff but ok

 

[JCat]

LOL'd at "Tripping balls".

Well, I've not been here for a looong time, as my pre-order Hopper is still going strong (praise Odin).

Despite working flawlessly, I've always felt that the Hopper was missing one major feature, WOOD:

So I made myself these.
They're Teak, and a total b@~tard to machine.
I had to make a 'rolling carriage' for the bed of my lathe, as my drill-press only extends 50mm, no-where near enough to bore a hole the entire depth of the GH.

It worked, but I borked the fancy drill-bit I bought especially for the task (by forcing it into teak end-grain repeatedly , kept stalling my 370Watt lathe too!, which can't be good for it?)

Clearances are REALLY tight, as I wanted it to be as small as possible.
Failure happened more than success

Never mind, it was worth it.


I really liked my cheap plastic caddy from kfirrer, but I like to think this adds a little bit more class

I originally had plans to make some for sale, but the difficulty level, and tool attrition would almost certainly make them un-sellably expensive ( as compared to the price of other dugouts/stashes I've seen/owned )

I am interested though what folk here would consider a fair price for something like this?

Is this even something which interests you?
Or are you all already rocking fancy cases?

That's super nice man! Really, really nice! (I can appreciate the difficulty of building these ... I'm sure they'd have to be worth $75-$100 anyways? Probably worth more, but whether you could sell them for more or not is another question )

 

[Cheesequake]

That's super nice man! Really, really nice! (I can appreciate the difficulty of building these ... I'm sure they'd have to be worth $75-$100 anyways? Probably worth more, but whether you could sell them for more or not is another question )

Seems pretty unreasonable seeing as how that's what the Mistvape Touch which is a fully functional wooden vaporizer sold for originally.

I could see people paying it for sure, but only a few people from this forum. A more approachable price would be $35-$50.

 

[guyonthecouch]

Dynastash knockoff but ok

Actually Dynavap are not the originators of the classic dugout design. It's a timeless piece/design that's been around for years my friend.

@Copacetic awesome work my dude

 

[Sonicboom1991]

Into the herb chamber and LED holes. Not sure if cop lights are temp sensor or not but worth a shot. I have a weird thing with my dial too where if I don't twist it back and forth it will flash blue, more heat will build up at the back end, and it won't produce much vapor. A couple back and forths on the back end and boom working like it should. Weirdest thing.

Caroline gave me the same response in november.

 

[JCat]

Seems pretty unreasonable seeing as how that's what the Mistvape Touch which is a fully functional wooden vaporizer sold for originally.

I could see people paying it for sure, but only a few people from this forum. A more approachable price would be $35-$50.

Maybe ... but unless the OP outsourced the manufacturing to China, or had a production line at the very least to build them, there's no way he could sell them for that cost and it be worthwhile I don't think. You can buy a handmade piece of oak furniture from Walmart for $200, or you can buy the same piece (functionally) from a local woodworker making custom pieces for >$500 ... possibly >$1,000 ... it's not reasonable to expect custom hand crafted stuff to be sold for made in China prices ...

Edit: I guess it depends ... if the OP can make 10 in an hour, then selling them @ $35 might make sense, but if it takes 1-2 hours per piece (at best after he gets down his process) by the time you include the time spent on each transaction and shipping it, much less than $75 and I just can't see it. They might make good gifts ... (I never sell anything I build ... I do some woodworking on the side ... to make even half of my regular job's hourly wage if I did I would have to sell each piece @ 5-20x the cost of a Walmart piece--granted I'm not that fast ... so they make nice gifts, but I can't possibly justify making something to sell it ...)

 

[Cheesequake]

Maybe ... but unless the OP outsourced the manufacturing to China, or had a production line at the very least to build them, there's no way he could sell them for that cost and it be worthwhile I don't think. You can buy a handmade piece of oak furniture from Walmart for $200, or you can buy the same piece (functionally) from a local woodworker making custom pieces for >$500 ... possibly >$1,000 ... it's not reasonable to expect custom hand crafted stuff to be sold for made in China prices ...

Edit: I guess it depends ... if the OP can make 10 in an hour, then selling them @ $35 might make sense, but if it takes 1-2 hours per piece (at best after he gets down his process) by the time you include the time spent on each transaction and shipping it, much less than $75 and I just can't see it. They might make good gifts ... (I never sell anything I build ... I do some woodworking on the side ... to make even half of my regular job's hourly wage if I did I would have to sell each piece @ 5-20x the cost of a Walmart piece--granted I'm not that fast ... so they make nice gifts, but I can't possibly justify making something to sell it ...)

I guess my point is it might not be worth selling then. You can get an incredibly nice (made in USA) leather Grasshopper case with storage spots for batteries and pokers etc for $50 from delta3dstudios. A less functional case for twice the price made out of a (generally) cheaper material just doesn't make a ton of sense to me personally.

 

[Hogni]

Nice GH dugout! Would be interested. Price? Depends on beauty of the wood - and of the scews. You should change them to some nicer ones. They deminsh the overall appearance.

 

[duff]

Really beautiful work @Copacetic

 

[Baron23]

Really beautiful work @Copacetic

I'm with you on that, Duff. Truly beautiful.

 

[vapviking]

LOL'd at "Tripping balls".

Well, I've not been here for a looong time, as my pre-order Hopper is still going strong (praise Odin).

Despite working flawlessly, I've always felt that the Hopper was missing one major feature, WOOD:

So I made myself these.
They're Teak, and a total b@~tard to machine.
I had to make a 'rolling carriage' for the bed of my lathe, as my drill-press only extends 50mm, no-where near enough to bore a hole the entire depth of the GH.

It worked, but I borked the fancy drill-bit I bought especially for the task (by forcing it into teak end-grain repeatedly , kept stalling my 370Watt lathe too!, which can't be good for it?)

Clearances are REALLY tight, as I wanted it to be as small as possible.
Failure happened more than success

Never mind, it was worth it.


I really liked my cheap plastic caddy from kfirrer, but I like to think this adds a little bit more class

I originally had plans to make some for sale, but the difficulty level, and tool attrition would almost certainly make them un-sellably expensive ( as compared to the price of other dugouts/stashes I've seen/owned )

I am interested though what folk here would consider a fair price for something like this?

Is this even something which interests you?
Or are you all already rocking fancy cases?

Nice work, @Copacetic ! Is there a spare battery slot in the other half? Or a stash cache?
As a woodworker I admire your perseverance and skill. I spent quite a few years managing an architectural woodwork shop.
I think your price should simply reflect what you are willing to sell your skills and time for, then let the market (the folks!) decide whether they want it bad enough.

I can understand the high failure rate, given the depth of the bore and tolerances; I probably wouldn't even try a drill press for that, even if it had the throw. Maybe a high quality (and big!) horizontal boring machine, though still tricky (not to mention danger factor). This is effectively what you made the lathe into. There are a variety of bits that can do well in end grain, hard wood, etc. The speed (usually high) they rotate must be accounted-for, which might mean the lathe is not the best machine for the job.

Alternate method suggestion; Starting with your blank a little thick, saw it into two halves, longitudinally. Rout the slots as half circles (think core-box bit), then re-glue your blank halves back together, keeping grain alignment. A straight-grained (oak) or a homogeneous-grained (mahogany?) material would 'show' less glue line. You could also make the slots square edged, just using dado set on a table saw. You'd have to tweak the end of slots with a chisel where dado stops. Slightly less visually appealing, round peg in square hole and all, but maybe a bit more efficient and cost-effective.

I know this (saw and re-assemble method) sacrifices some degree of the aesthetic, but it also significantly reduces risk of failure. After all, this is the balance between art and simply craft; degree of difficulty, risk!

My old-old dugout had a thin, sliding dovetail, lid with no screws, but the disadvantages were; 1. You could lose it; 2. you could put it in backwards, not as good a fit; 3. Not matching grain, like yours has.
Maybe just a nice brass screw that could develop a patina...

Again, nice job!

 

[Hjalmark]

Nice work, @Copacetic ! Is there a spare battery slot in the other half? Or a stash cache?
As a woodworker I admire your perseverance and skill. I spent quite a few years managing an architectural woodwork shop.
I think your price should simply reflect what you are willing to sell your skills and time for, then let the market (the folks!) decide whether they want it bad enough.

I can understand the high failure rate, given the depth of the bore and tolerances; I probably wouldn't even try a drill press for that, even if it had the throw. Maybe a high quality (and big!) horizontal boring machine, though still tricky (not to mention danger factor). This is effectively what you made the lathe into. There are a variety of bits that can do well in end grain, hard wood, etc. The speed (usually high) they rotate must be accounted-for, which might mean the lathe is not the best machine for the job.

Alternate method suggestion; Starting with your blank a little thick, saw it into two halves, longitudinally. Rout the slots as half circles (think core-box bit), then re-glue your blank halves back together, keeping grain alignment. A straight-grained (oak) or a homogeneous-grained (mahogany?) material would 'show' less glue line. You could also make the slots square edged, just using dado set on a table saw. You'd have to tweak the end of slots with a chisel where dado stops. Slightly less visually appealing, round peg in square hole and all, but maybe a bit more efficient and cost-effective.

I know this (saw and re-assemble method) sacrifices some degree of the aesthetic, but it also significantly reduces risk of failure. After all, this is the balance between art and simply craft; degree of difficulty, risk!

My old-old dugout had a thin, sliding dovetail, lid with no screws, but the disadvantages were; 1. You could lose it; 2. you could put it in backwards, not as good a fit; 3. Not matching grain, like yours has.
Maybe just a nice brass screw that could develop a patina...

Again, nice job!

Damn that looks nice! How big is that lathe? Love to see a picture as I have been fantasizing about owning one

 

[Copacetic]

Dynastash knockoff but ok

Actually Dynavap are not the originators of the classic dugout design. It's a timeless piece/design that's been around for years my friend.

@Copacetic awesome work my dude

LOL, it's true, I must freely admit to being inspired by both Dynavap, and the many versions of dugouts I've seen before, but mostly by @Kfirrer GH case which he sells on ebay

Maybe ... but unless the OP outsourced the manufacturing to China, or had a production line at the very least to build them, there's no way he could sell them for that cost and it be worthwhile I don't think. You can buy a handmade piece of oak furniture from Walmart for $200, or you can buy the same piece (functionally) from a local woodworker making custom pieces for >$500 ... possibly >$1,000 ... it's not reasonable to expect custom hand crafted stuff to be sold for made in China prices ...

Edit: I guess it depends ... if the OP can make 10 in an hour, then selling them @ $35 might make sense, but if it takes 1-2 hours per piece (at best after he gets down his process) by the time you include the time spent on each transaction and shipping it, much less than $75 and I just can't see it. They might make good gifts ... (I never sell anything I build ... I do some woodworking on the side ... to make even half of my regular job's hourly wage if I did I would have to sell each piece @ 5-20x the cost of a Walmart piece--granted I'm not that fast ... so they make nice gifts, but I can't possibly justify making something to sell it ...)

Yeah, making these is surely never gonna be a cash cow, but I do love making stuff like this.
I had to have one for myself and made several hoping that one would make it all the way through the process intact, but 3 survived

I guess my point is it might not be worth selling then. You can get an incredibly nice (made in USA) leather Grasshopper case with storage spots for batteries and pokers etc for $50 from delta3dstudios. A less functional case for twice the price made out of a (generally) cheaper material just doesn't make a ton of sense to me personally.

Sadly, you might be right.
But decent wood is definitely not cheaper than leather!
I could definitely have made a case cheaper from leather (in fact I considered it, and have ideas for other products involving leather) but that wasn't what I wanted for myself.
The case is really a selfish project and the extra are by-products, not necessarily a serious design for manufacture.

Nice GH dugout! Would be interested. Price? Depends on beauty of the wood - and of the scews. You should change them to some nicer ones. They deminsh the overall appearance.

Maybe my poor photography has let me down here (in my defence it was FREEZING outside when I took these) as the bolts are actually good quality m4 stainless Torx bolts, not the cheap screws I've made them look like!
Unless it's the silver colour finish you dont like?

Really beautiful work @Copacetic

Thankyoo, I thankyoo all

Nice work, @Copacetic ! Is there a spare battery slot in the other half? Or a stash cache?
As a woodworker I admire your perseverance and skill. I spent quite a few years managing an architectural woodwork shop.
I think your price should simply reflect what you are willing to sell your skills and time for, then let the market (the folks!) decide whether they want it bad enough.

I can understand the high failure rate, given the depth of the bore and tolerances; I probably wouldn't even try a drill press for that, even if it had the throw. Maybe a high quality (and big!) horizontal boring machine, though still tricky (not to mention danger factor). This is effectively what you made the lathe into. There are a variety of bits that can do well in end grain, hard wood, etc. The speed (usually high) they rotate must be accounted-for, which might mean the lathe is not the best machine for the job.

Alternate method suggestion; Starting with your blank a little thick, saw it into two halves, longitudinally. Rout the slots as half circles (think core-box bit), then re-glue your blank halves back together, keeping grain alignment. A straight-grained (oak) or a homogeneous-grained (mahogany?) material would 'show' less glue line. You could also make the slots square edged, just using dado set on a table saw. You'd have to tweak the end of slots with a chisel where dado stops. Slightly less visually appealing, round peg in square hole and all, but maybe a bit more efficient and cost-effective.

I know this (saw and re-assemble method) sacrifices some degree of the aesthetic, but it also significantly reduces risk of failure. After all, this is the balance between art and simply craft; degree of difficulty, risk!

My old-old dugout had a thin, sliding dovetail, lid with no screws, but the disadvantages were; 1. You could lose it; 2. you could put it in backwards, not as good a fit; 3. Not matching grain, like yours has.
Maybe just a nice brass screw that could develop a patina...

Again, nice job!

Thanks man, the encouragement is very welcome
I have in fact made a crude Dynastash using exactly the approach you describe (router) , but it came out horrible(just playin', rushed too) and I'm now working on a stash with two conventional storage tunnels divided by a routed storage 'trench' with a sliding lid ( for ready filled VC tips), it's looking better.
I would like to try something made from two lateral halves divided by a thin layer of metal.
Probably not a GH case.

I'd love a horizontal boring machine though!
And a mill
And a forge
And a whole bunch of other stuff which I can't afford or have the room for

You are definitely right that the lathe is not ideally suited to the task.
If I make more I'll need to get some mineral oil to lube the bit instead of the beeswax I've been using.
Stalling the lathe had me sweating like a glassblowers arse every time

Edit:
Sorry, to the member who asked if it stores batteries too, yes it does, 2 of them.
Failed to show that in the pic.

 

[Hogni]

Maybe my poor photography has let me down here (in my defence it was FREEZING outside when I took these) as the bolts are actually good quality m4 stainless Torx bolts, not the cheap screws I've made them look like!
Unless it's the silver colour finish you dont like?

No, that I din't mean. It's more the "rough style" of the bolt - aside it's damages.

I would think there a more decent, sophoisticated soultions part with the high quality look of the wooden case. I think acorn caps are more suited in that way. Perhaps something like this

...or like that

...or that one

Just a few examples. But guess it would look pretty neat.




https://www.amazon.de/acquastilla-1...tmutter-Schraube/dp/B00FEJVA56?language=en_GB

 

[vapviking]

@Copacetic , thanks for changing the subject, away ever so briefly from, "When's the Lab gonna be back in bidness?"

 

[PPN]

Is somebody tried to cut the GH body to try to connect it using a 510 connection to a mod? if not is it something technically doable?

I'm pretty bored to have to swap batteries and I think most issues I get a related to this tiny batteries... yes a 510 GH would be the best!