JoeMama
Well-Known Member
Yes, I think that's correct. I like that it stays inside the glass. Since the silicon MP isn't "tight", I lightly push against it's front to ensure a sealed vapor path.
Discontinued The Grasshopper
- Thread starter midgetsanchez
- Start date
Yes, I think that's correct. I like that it stays inside the glass. Since the silicon MP isn't "tight", I lightly push against it's front to ensure a sealed vapor path.
MonsterWithoutBorders
Philosophim
CS very quick. Impressive. They are sending me a new body. That is good cause I am
67 years old and need one. I am supposed to send my old body back. That is going to be expensive even though I have lost alot of weight in the last 4 months.
67 years old and need one. I am supposed to send my old body back. That is going to be expensive even though I have lost alot of weight in the last 4 months.
ChooChooCharlie
Well-Known Member
At home, doing a 4 draw (always on) GH session on temp level 4 using crafty/firewoodMP mod, followed by a tasty and free flowing Mighty capsule session. Shots, then beer. Yum. Strangest thing, though -- I seem to be buying product more frequently.
Know I'm not using it as designed, as GH Labs says to click off after every draw, but it's literally a pain. Dislike that clicker. Leaving temp ring on setting 4, easy, it's just four draws. Also use stock charger after every session with countdown timer set for 30 minutes, don't change batteries. Everything I'm doing is lazy: no dialing, clicking, replacing.
Less wear, or more heat stress on hopper?
Know I'm not using it as designed, as GH Labs says to click off after every draw, but it's literally a pain. Dislike that clicker. Leaving temp ring on setting 4, easy, it's just four draws. Also use stock charger after every session with countdown timer set for 30 minutes, don't change batteries. Everything I'm doing is lazy: no dialing, clicking, replacing.
Less wear, or more heat stress on hopper?
Clean your threads if you haven't. Blutac and IPA/qtips.
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
Well Bummer.
My grey Ti just took a shit.
No lights, nothing. Different batteries.
But if I partially depress the clicker and hold it at a mid-point, the lights go red and stay that way. I got it to work once. I'm pretty sure it's the back end.
Warranty time.
My grey Ti just took a shit.
No lights, nothing. Different batteries.
But if I partially depress the clicker and hold it at a mid-point, the lights go red and stay that way. I got it to work once. I'm pretty sure it's the back end.
Warranty time.
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Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
So sorry to hear! (I just couldn't give your post a "like")
moondog
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
Like Me2 said. Hope the warranty goes smooth.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
It's become one of life's inevitabilities.
Edit, sorry , hadn't read your next, I'm a bit dopey at this hour I guess...
Don't you have a spare? To swap/check your parts and use while Hopper is in the hospital?
Doesn't everyone?
I can just suggest that you get your warranty form filled out ASAP, before that next shipment hits the streets!
and best of luck.
Grasshopper presents an interesting conundrum at a certain point:
Once a Body has been replaced and then a Back End taps out, i.e. both have been replaced, is this still your 'original' Grasshopper?
Surely the soul of Hopper is not in the mouthpiece.
Every time I've filled out a warranty request it has asked for the date I received the Hopper and I have always used the same date. Now that I've had a Back End replaced, with new serial number and this one has quickly gotten hot, I'm not sure what date to put on the next warranty form...
moondog
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
My first thought is to use the info for the latest iteration. It could be that they use that info to track which batch your unit came from. I could see that being important for them to know if they really are making iterative changes over time.
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
I suggest emailing ghl and asking them (regarding which date to use). And please post their reply here!
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
It's become one of life's inevitabilities.
Edit, sorry , hadn't read your next, I'm a bit dopey at this hour I guess...
Don't you have a spare? To swap/check your parts and use while Hopper is in the hospital?
Doesn't everyone?
I can just suggest that you get your warranty form filled out ASAP, before that next shipment hits the streets!
and best of luck.
Grasshopper presents an interesting conundrum at a certain point:
Once a Body has been replaced and then a Back End taps out, i.e. both have been replaced, is this still your 'original' Grasshopper?
Surely the soul of Hopper is not in the mouthpiece.
Every time I've filled out a warranty request it has asked for the date I received the Hopper and I have always used the same date. Now that I've had a Back End replaced, with new serial number and this one has quickly gotten hot, I'm not sure what date to put on the next warranty form...
My first thought is to use the info for the latest iteration. It could be that they use that info to track which batch your unit came from. I could see that being important for them to know if they really are making iterative changes over time.
This has perplexed me as well. I'd always considered the Received date as when I receieved the original, because I sure as fuck am not keeping track of what THEY should know better than I do!
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slcbdco
Brewer, Lobbyist, Vaporist
My first thought is to use the info for the latest iteration. It could be that they use that info to track which batch your unit came from. I could see that being important for them to know if they really are making iterative changes over time.
If I had to guess, which I do since I don't know, is that they would want you to send the most recent date you received something that way they can track batches.
I was over at HL yesterday as there is a food truck park there and while I was waiting for Tacos in the evening I saw the mailman take a huge amount of boxes out of hopper labs so it looks like GH Santa is working hard!
ArthurJ
Well-Known Member
vapviking
Old & In the Way
Maybe mentioning it here is the next best thing?
Let's see if an answer pops up in the blog!
btka
Well-Known Member
I got my replacment bodies from ghl via usps in 12 to 14 days... from ghl to europe it takes 4 to 6 days but until it passes the custom it takes extra 4 to 7 days.... you do not have to pay customs for warranty parts...
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
Maybe so, but I hate to say, again, why should I keep track of what I send them, when they have the record of shipment? I simply am not going to keep notes in this crap. They have the SN''s; they ca track it.
Which brings me to:
When a backend is replaced, what happens to the SN? Do they automatically change it to reflect the latest one are sent back in exchange??
And also, as there are no identifying marks on the body, how the heck do they keep track of design iterations? It can't be like, "oh lookie, there's an extra capacitor inside there; it must be a new revision we made".
I dunno, just weird.
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
Yes, they will automatically update the serial number in your account. That's what happened when my Ti backend got replaced.
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
biohacker
HREAM
So do you guys prefer the SS or Ti more? I'm finding that the SS gets hotter, and i'm starting to notice that the back end can get to scorching from time to time. I think i'm going with two new Ti for my backups instead of one of each like I originally planned. I like the lighter feel and texture of the Ti as well.
Still in disbelief what this thing can do. It's like an ultra portable EVO or something....
Still in disbelief what this thing can do. It's like an ultra portable EVO or something....
moondog
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
I find myself using the SS more just because the threads feel so much smoother than the TI, even after cleaning the threads.
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
I quite like the feel of the coloured hoppers, a subtly textured matte finish. I only have Ti's, though I'd be interested to see the SS in person. I can see the appeal for the smoother threads, but can't say the grainy Ti feel has ever bothered me. Not having felt the comparison probably plays a role in that.
I should say, a while back I mentioned cleaning mouthpieces with PBW, well I did that again recently, and whilst it works efficiently, a longer soak changed the colour of my blue Ti MP.
So just a heads up, keep soaking times at a minimum with coloured mouthpieces (5 mins max should be safe). It does work well enough that I will continue to use PBW, it actually cleaned the MP threads so thoroughly I could easily turn the screen with just a toothpick, it brings back the sheen to the screen, but does require a brush or pipe cleaner with less soaking time. Still the fastest, easiest way to clean IME.
I should say, a while back I mentioned cleaning mouthpieces with PBW, well I did that again recently, and whilst it works efficiently, a longer soak changed the colour of my blue Ti MP.
So just a heads up, keep soaking times at a minimum with coloured mouthpieces (5 mins max should be safe). It does work well enough that I will continue to use PBW, it actually cleaned the MP threads so thoroughly I could easily turn the screen with just a toothpick, it brings back the sheen to the screen, but does require a brush or pipe cleaner with less soaking time. Still the fastest, easiest way to clean IME.
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
That may be another benefit of the ss; easy ISO soak cleaning.