Discontinued The Grasshopper

[GreenHopper]

Update they sent me a new body and seems to work well again, the body was kinda scratched a bit though but whatever. Back end seems okay again too, batteries alright (can get like one full bowl temp stepped, or like 3-4 one hitter pinch bowls through a bubbler), so we'll see how it holds up I guess. I asked and they said they won't replace batteries for the GHB2 (did y'all who got them have to pay?) nor the new charger unless there was an issue with the old one (which I've still never even used once to see, always just Nitecore em). Quick turn around and helpful quick replies to my questions, CS has been pretty fine for me





Wait they're going to want me to send back the damaged body? I though the whole point of just sending out a replacement was to avoid me sending back my Hopper to the labs, and not have to pay to ship a third time... Really don't feel like doing that unless I need to send my whole Hopper back to test (like they want you to do if you think you might have a hot back end, which btw the last time I did and they said it was fine at first only for it to get worse and be replaced later when sent back again to test...)

Oh well at least it works again with great tasty thick vapor from these nice fresh Cali meds

Hey ya bud,

Yep they expect you to return your broken grasshopper body. I don't know what happens if you don't. They might refuse to send another replacement out for a future warranty request.

 

[biohacker]

How well does the Hopper work plugged into a/c? Does the battery run out of juice pretty quickly making plug in operation impossible? I know it doesn't bypass, so i'm guessing it's similar to say, the arizer air?

 

[vapviking]

How well does the Hopper work plugged into a/c? Does the battery run out of juice pretty quickly making plug in operation impossible? I know it doesn't bypass, so i'm guessing it's similar to say, the arizer air?

You might have to start your own trials on that one. I know the charger is not strong enough to keep up with relatively constant use (like good ol' Mighty) so theoretically you could run it down to 'dead'.

But now I'm recalling I was trying something like that a few weeks ago. Battery went to red flash but after a minute or two on charger I got a nice hit out of it, then was able to repeat that a few times. So, maybe nice in a pinch to get an extra few pulls.

 

[JoeMama]

@Ratchett

Hi, I guess a small tool made of metal, maybe shaped like a small tuning fork, for fixing and loosing the screen instead the - large - tweezers could be a nice offer from Delta3D?

Godamm that's a great idea! Tweezers do the job, but they are not fun to work with. A tool would be awesome! It'd have to be good grade steel to prevent bending forces against the "tines", but I just thought:
What if the working end of this tool had a slightly smaller diameter than the screen, and the surface of it was patterned with short pointy sharp tines sticking up (down) in the pattern of the screen? Aside from being a bitch and a half to make, it'd probably make it super easy to unscrew the screen, with all the torque transferred to the screen instead of tweezer-like longer tines. Ah, never mind, it's a machinist's nightmare.

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

Godamm that's a great idea! Tweezers do the job, but they are not fun to work with. A tool would be awesome! It'd have to be good grade steel to prevent bending forces against the "tines", but I just thought:
What if the working end of this tool had a slightly smaller diameter than the screen, and the surface of it was patterned with short pointy shart things in the pattern of the screen? Aside from being a bitch and a half to make, it'd probably be super easy to unscrew the screen, too, with all the torque transferred to the screen instead of tweezer-like long tines. Ah, never mind, it's a machinist's nightmare.

It's a machinists nightmare, but it might be possible with the power of 3D printing. What do you think @Ratchett?

 

[moondog]

It's a machinists nightmare, but it might be possible with the power of 3D printing. What do you think @Ratchett?

Allow me to add a "Yes, please" here because:

A) If I'm gonna have to dissect that assembly, I want the best possible tool for the job.
B) One can NEVER have enough hopper accessories. NEVER, I tell you.

 

[MinnBobber]

White film on the glass after a PBW flush indicates an excessive amount of PBW. (way too concentrated) @biohacker, I've been using PBW for a year with my clear glass and love it. The difference is I'm using 1/10th as much as I did in the beginning and it's working better.

The trick to PBW is use less of it, and perform more cycles of flush/soak/flush to fully clean the piece. However these days I find my glass is usually crystal clear after two PBW soaks

(NOTE - do not use PBW on metal or fumed glass!)

...........................................................................
X2

Two important rules for PBW:
1. less is more. Never use too concentrated a mixture. Use another complete cycle instead.
If mixed inside your glass, symptom can be patchy small white chunks stuck to material--undissolved PBW

2. do short dwell cycles as too long a PBW soak can leave a haze.

Best method is to mix in a separate vessel, your minimal PBW and very hot water. Stir and make sure it's all dissolved. Preheat any glass to be cleaned with hot water so glass is not shocked by hotter PBW water.
Pour and soak for only 5-10 minutes. If glass is not completely full, the "waterline" can leave a white line.
Empty a little out to allow shake shake shake of piece. Be careful as PBW is slicker than greased shit.
Empty and then rinse with Dawn soapy water and THEN hot water rinses, at least two add and shake.
Spotless pieces.
@Ratchett cleaning plugs shown below--variety of sizes

Method sounds complicated but it's not--

Need to re-check Ratchett's advice to not use on metal as I THINK it's ok on most quality metals as brewers use it on all their big metal vats and metal valves in the system ETC.
Anyone chime in on that please??

EDIT: from a site that sells PBW:
P.B.W. is a buffered alkaline detergent that has been proven to be more than an effective substitute for caustic soda cleaners. Because of its unique formulation of buffers and mild alkalis, it is safe on skin as well as soft metals such as stainless steel, aluminum, and on plastics. P.B.W. uses active oxygen to penetrate carbon or protein soils
...................................................................

I mostly use on glass but have done some metal items just fine.
One site says to use at 1% strength so low does please

 

[biohacker]

Two new observations.... the SS temp control is alot harder to turn than the Ti....not sure if that is just fluke or if they are all like that? The other thing is that I think i'm starting to favour a coarser grind...better airflow and taste, but I keep on experimenting!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Two new observations.... the SS temp control is alot harder to turn than the Ti....not sure if that is just fluke or if they are all like that? The other thing is that I think i'm starting to favour a coarser grind...better airflow and taste, but I keep on experimenting!

I've been through 3 back ends and had a blue Ti before, they all turn different honestly. You can push down to make em turn smoother, I guess my SS ones have been harder lately especially, alwys have to push down as I turn. They say that's normal? Like back end heat "tolerance"

Always courser grind here imo, given the screen holes and not be able to fully clean the chamber. I've got some hand broken fresh Fruit Loops in there now (taste so fucking phenomenal at temps 1, 1.5, and 2 -with little light heady clouds after 1 btw- like each individual flavor of the cereal but more natural...) but it is a bit better to grind for consistency sake. Santa Cruz Shredder works great (and 3 piece imo so you keep the kief with the herb when you vape it and can still keep things cleaner) but I'm going to get an SLX soon

 

[JoeMama]

...........................................................................
X2

Two important rules for PBW:
1. less is more. Never use too concentrated a mixture. Use another complete cycle instead.
If mixed inside your glass, symptom can be patchy small white chunks stuck to material--undissolved PBW

2. do short dwell cycles as too long a PBW soak can leave a haze.

Best method is to mix in a separate vessel, your minimal PBW and very hot water. Stir and make sure it's all dissolved. Preheat any glass to be cleaned with hot water so glass is not shocked by hotter PBW water.
Pour and soak for only 5-10 minutes. If glass is not completely full, the "waterline" can leave a white line.
Empty a little out to allow shake shake shake of piece. Be careful as PBW is slicker than greased shit.
Empty and then rinse with Dawn soapy water and THEN hot water rinses, at least two add and shake.
Spotless pieces.
@Ratchett cleaning plugs shown below--variety of sizes

Method sounds complicated but it's not--

Need to re-check Ratchett's advice to not use on metal as I THINK it's ok on most quality metals as brewers use it on all their big metal vats and metal valves in the system ETC.
Anyone chime in on that please??

EDIT: from a site that sells PBW:
P.B.W. is a buffered alkaline detergent that has been proven to be more than an effective substitute for caustic soda cleaners. Because of its unique formulation of buffers and mild alkalis, it is safe on skin as well as soft metals such as stainless steel, aluminum, and on plastics. P.B.W. uses active oxygen to penetrate carbon or protein soils
...................................................................

I mostly use on glass but have done some metal items just fine.
One site says to use at 1% strength so low does please

Minn, thank you for that post, it was very helpful!

One question.... how much PBW should one use for, say, cleaning the MP in a small (8 oz) glass?
The instructions on the bag say "empty packet" into 2-5 gallons of warm water, so I'm guessing like half-teaspoon? I have this sort of "jelly jar" glass that is 8 good oz with a lid so I can shake it around...

EDIT: I should say that I'm referring to a MP clean; immersing something in the solution, rather than filling something with the solution.

 

[MinnBobber]

One question.... how much PBW should one use for, say, cleaning the MP in a small (8 oz) glass?

..........................................................................
I have the bag of PBW. For 8 oz of water, I use about 1/8 teaspoon. Mixed with really hot water, heated to maybe 175 F, it cleans very well. You don't need much, always better to err by using too little instead of too much

 

[JoeMama]

..........................................................................
I have the bag of PBW. For 8 oz of water, I use about 1/8 teaspoon. Mixed with really hot water, heated to maybe 175 F, it cleans very well. You don't need much, always better to err by using too little instead of too much

Excellent, thanks!

 

[MoltenTiger]

Empty a little out to allow shake shake shake of piece. Be careful as PBW is slicker than greased shit.
Empty and then rinse with Dawn soapy water and THEN hot water rinses, at least two add and shake.

It does make glass crazy slippery!
I've never had a problem with a tide line or residue, and have had no problem mixing powder in a piece, though I generally do mix up a batch externally to clean multiple. The Pyrex jug I use to mix has never stained, any salt build up easily rinses off.
PBW is free rinsing and will wash away entirely, it can be used with cold water too. From what I've read that is recommended on sensitive equipment and for long term soaking.
Dish detergent is not free rinsing and isn't the best idea after the glass is already actually spotless.

Haze could be a problem with some glass, but legit borosilicate will stay smooth, crystal clear and shiny.

SS temp control is alot harder to turn than the Ti

Is the dial further from the clip ring on the SS? A larger gap makes the dial stiff. If it's assembled with almost no gap, it's super smooth.
The difference ranges from accidentally twisting off the back-end when turning the temp down to that nearly being impossible.

I'm guessing like half-teaspoon?

1/8th is probably pretty decent, less might be enough. More concentrated solution is recommended for stubborn equipment and will be fine if the MP isn't anodised

 

[biohacker]

Is the dial further from the clip ring on the SS? A larger gap makes the dial stiff. If it's assembled with almost no gap, it's super smooth.

Yep! On both if I push down they turn much easier though.

Been whitewalling (like I have never before) with a fine grind all night!

 

[MoltenTiger]

like I have never before

Have you checked out the claisen thread? Should see what those pens can do with their powers combined

 

[ArthurJ]

How long does it take for the batteries to charge up? Mine is arriving today so I'm wondering how long before I can test drive it.

 

[Mr. Me2]

How long does it take for the batteries to charge up? Mine is arriving today so I'm wondering how long before I can test drive it.

With an external charger, it's quick (an hour or less). Can't speak to charging time using the gh charger. But your batteries may arrive charged.

 

[ArthurJ]

Cool, thanks for the info!

 

[Mr. Me2]

Cool, thanks for the info!

I think you're looking a little under the weather. Is today a stay at home sick day? Then you can meet the postman...

 

[biohacker]

Have you checked out the claisen thread? Should see what those pens can do with their powers combined

Oh my...completely slipped my mind. I AM buying a Claisen stat! Gonna have to figure out a way to keep at least one hands-free though.

How long does it take for the batteries to charge up? Mine is arriving today so I'm wondering how long before I can test drive it.

Still trying to figure this out myself as I don't have an external charger. I swear some batteries charge up quick and others seem to take forever....still trying to isolate why...charge cable, hopper, battery...who knows why?

 

[ArthurJ]

@Mr. Me2 thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately I'll have to wait until later.

@biohacker what kind of external charger are we talking about? Not the charger that comes with it, something else?

 

[biohacker]

Ya not the oem usb, but rather an external 3rd party battery charger like the Nitecore for example.

 

[ArthurJ]

Cool, I have a nitecore charger!
I'll be putting batteries on the charger first thing when I get home.

 

[vapviking]

Cool, I have a nitecore charger!
I'll be putting batteries on the charger first thing when I get home.

They're typically about 80% when you get them. So you don't have to wait.
Have fun!

The Nitecore D2 has two charge rate settings, 500mah and 300mah, 500 being default each time a battery is inserted. Apparently a slower charge (300) can help lead to longer overall battery life.
I'm not sure if we have confirmed the charge rate of the HL stock charger...

 

[ArthurJ]

I think the feeder, which I ordered from eBay, may be arriving today too!