Discontinued The Grasshopper

vapviking

Old & In the Way
can someone with new batteries or hopper can confirm if their batteries are labeled with gh2 and are they v2 ... maybe some7ne with batteries labeled gh1 who also own batteries labeled with gh2 can confirm a differnce between this two...
seems like the "v2" name only appears here, I guess.
The member got recent email from Caroline referring to the labeling as "GH2 rather than GH1 as your current Batteries are labeled". I think she probably meant GHB2 and GHB1 respectively. Mine all read MODEL GHB1. I don't think we yet know what, if anything, this change indicates.
sorry if repetitive.
 
As she said they tested it with their batteries & it worked fine. I'm not sure how you know that all your 5 batteries were working fine if your unit was malfunctioning. Anyways, you'll know soon enough when you get it back with the new battery.
I knew because if you'll read my quote I said before I received this body they all worked fine. Which they did. My other body had a heater malfunction, just like hundreds of other hoppers have had. Completely different than this body's malfunction and nothing to do with my perfectly charging, discharging, and functioning batteries.

I have a feeling they tested it once or twice, saw it worked and called it good. It didn't flash red every single hit for me but it did every single bowl I tried to vape at one point or another. I guarantee if they tested it more they would find it has the exact issue I describe. I kept it for a couple weeks knowing it had that issue just to make sure I wasn't being an idiot.
 
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lovecrush

http://goo.gl/EsKJzJ
Just curious... Did you get your gh T shirts? I'm tempted. Are they worth spending the $$$? Are they true to size?

Hey there! I do think they worth the price, and they fit well; they are very comfortable to wear (100% cotton). Just washed mine (XL), so it's a bit wrinkled in these pics:

816c6baaa7860f593d9737dca53cdc5c.png
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
You really have to clean it between the tiny threads to really notice it

Here's what ya do:

When doing a thread cleaning, take DetoxIT-D and place several tiny drops on the inside threads of the battery compartment. Roll it around so the Solution spreads through and between all the threads. THEN, take the backend - NO BATTERY!! - and screw it on, and then screw it off. Wait 60 seconds. Wipe off well with either a few Qtips or bunch up a clean cloth and literally screw the cloth into the body. Then wipe the back end threads well similarly.

Perfection.

I have two batteries that are twelve weeks old, and six batteries that are one week old. One of those six is the one that was in my brand new Ti hopper. All of my batteries have GHB1 on them. These v2 batteries intrigue me...

Well hell, maybe they ARE reading these posts; we've been talking about them needing to bin batteries at the very least, well maybe they DID find a better manufacturer or got that manufacturer to bin it for them. If there IS a GHB2, and if it is even 30% better, then they are on the right track.
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
Here's what ya do:

When doing a thread cleaning, take DetoxIT-D and place several tiny drops on the inside threads of the battery compartment. Roll it around so the Solution spreads through and between all the threads. THEN, take the backend - NO BATTERY!! - and screw it on, and then screw it off. Wait 60 seconds. Wipe off well with either a few Qtips or bunch up a clean cloth and literally screw the cloth into the body. Then wipe the back end threads well similarly.
Perfection.
Excellent cleaning tip Joe!
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
I've bean meaning to post about something I noticed with my new titanium Grasshopper's backend. Besides it being smoother, there are now little dots in each notch of the temp dial. I can't tell if it's painted or just machined deeper than the rest of the notch. I'm wondering if this is a new change to the backends, or if it is unique to the Ti vs. SS.

One week old Ti on left, twelve week old SS on the right:

lKCMXQf.jpg
I noticed this when I got my pre-order too - the colour shows on the lower section, as this is the body material (Ti on the left, SS on the right in your pic).
My Ti GT001159 is the same, I believe it's one of the first current-style back ends. However, as it's been used for 6 months or so, there is gunk covering it. You can faintly make it out on T4 under direct lighting.
I have found the smoothness corresponds to the height of the gap above the SS clip collar, if you push the dial into the body it becomes smoother, some back-ends will respring the dial pushing it further away making it more restrictive to turn.

-------

My Ti back-end was getting noticeably warm earlier, upon inspection there was some gunk found in the back-end threading, mostly on the top thread.
I used some isopropyl alcohol (99.8%) and a microfibre to fairly effectively clean the threads back. Deoxit or some other electronic cleaning agent would possibly work better or as well.

Now its clean, the difference is noticeable.
  • threads on/off easier
  • doesn't generate its own heat when on
  • performance is better, abv darker, no blue flickering during use, clouds more consistent
I clean my back threads every week or two, as the back-end gets replaced a lot. Doing so seems to keep the performance acceptable, and failing to do so usually results in noticing heat in the back-end
 
@Skywalker OG :As they seem to have made up your mind for you, as Caroline says take a video. My :2c: would be when you receive your Grasshopper, take an uboxing video and repeat the error all in one shoot. Then video the same error with one of your original batteries and send it to them. They can't argue with video proof.
That's the plan. Even if it does turn out to be the GH1 batteries somehow causing the issue they should issue a recall instead of blaming my easier on the batteries charger than their own charger.
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Great! I was going to say something about putting it there but I feel like I'm always bugging you to move stuff over there and I don't want to make a pain of myself.
Ask away, please! :tup:

I welcome all suggestions. This thread moves fast sometimes and it's easy to miss stuff.
 
Vapor_Eyes,
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JoeMama

Well-Known Member
I am honored :bowdown:, and, thanks, @moondog !

@lovecrush - regarding the shirts, does the front say "grasshopper vapes" and back say "WAIT FOR IT".

I just fucking love this!!!

My Ti back-end was getting noticeably warm earlier, upon inspection there was some gunk found in the back-end threading, mostly on the top thread.
I used some isopropyl alcohol (99.8%) and a microfibre to fairly effectively clean the threads back. Deoxit or some other electronic cleaning agent would possibly work better or as well.

Now its clean, the difference is noticeable.
  • threads on/off easier
  • doesn't generate its own heat when on
  • performance is better, abv darker, no blue flickering during use, clouds more consistent
I clean my back threads every week or two, as the back-end gets replaced a lot. Doing so seems to keep the performance acceptable, and failing to do so usually results in noticing heat in the back-end

This is the KEY to a healthy hopper, and I believe that it's is a very reasonable responsibility to assume this kind of TLC for the product. Regardless of any deeper tech issues, this along with mouthpiece cleaning (unless yer a little piggy), is what ya gotta do.
 
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Hawk

Well-Known Member
@Skywalker OG : That totally sucks for you, what a shitty situation to be in.
But I can say this about 2 authentic Nitecore chargers I use and tested.
Neither unit charges to the proper voltage.
Both take all 18650 batteries to 4.20V at full charge, but when testing the fully charged batteries with multiple mutimeters they show the Nitcores don't bring the batteries to the proper voltage. They come out of the charger at 4.14V - 4.15V.
aNCNien.jpg

UrZcbiW.jpg

burU3sn.jpg

If anyone has a multimeter and a Nitcore try charging a Grasshopper battery in it and charge one in the Grasshopper with usb and compare the fully charged voltages.


There is nothing wrong with that, working normally. Most chargers will charge between 4.1-4.2v
 

Icon13

Serial Vapist
@Skywalker OG : That totally sucks for you, what a shitty situation to be in.
But I can say this about 2 authentic Nitecore chargers I use and tested.
Neither unit charges to the proper voltage.
Both take all 18650 batteries to 4.20V at full charge, but when testing the fully charged batteries with multiple mutimeters they show the Nitcores don't bring the batteries to the proper voltage. They come out of the charger at 4.14V - 4.15V.
aNCNien.jpg

UrZcbiW.jpg

burU3sn.jpg

If anyone has a multimeter and a Nitcore try charging a Grasshopper battery in it and charge one in the Grasshopper with usb and compare the fully charged voltages.

This is because the negative delta V cut off for this charger is 4.15V. It totally does not matter if they reach 4.2V. 3.7V is the normal operating voltage. They will only operate at 4.2V for seconds before almost immediately dropping to 3.7V where it will remain until dead. Unlike other chemistries of batteries, Li-ion does not drop in voltage gradually until the device stops, once below 3.7V it should stop pretty much immediately.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Welp looks like my Blue Ti is going to be heading out to a nice new home afterall, easier to sell an unregistered unit, and I really couldn't justify having two anymore. Hanging on to the SS version as my sole Hopper, though I still do love the look and feel of that blue! Maybe some day in the future I will have it again...

Anyway just wanted to post a photo of that SS in one of the leather/nylon sleeves that comes with the xvape Muse pen:
qURLN9h.jpg

It is pretty perfect for tip protection and gives it a fashionable Dracula collar (I removed the ridiculous tassle it had through those holes)

Also I was using it dry last night with the long skinny piece of the Lily mouthpiece from @Ed's TnT and it works surprisingly well. Smooths and conditions slightly with a longer blackwood path, and the wood seals well on the GH without scratching it like glass might, no silicone needed, you just have to hold it there during your hits. Somebody needs to send Ed a spare mouthpiece if they haven't already so he can whip up something proper that can be like a wood sleeve for the mouthpiece tip... Probably be a while before he has time to work on that though unfortunately either way

Oh and saw the aquamizer being mentioned in the VapCap thread, anyone try it for the GH yet? I still haven't tried the nano vubbler i had gotten way back when in limbo actually...
 
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skyvaper

Well-Known Member
My backend was starting to get progressively warmer until I charged my battery on low in my D2. Very early to assume this is a "fix" but Ive almost gone through my second bowl with a cool backend. The backend on my ti was never burning hot but noticeably warm. Ill report back my findings on the next low charged battery. If this has been covered and Im late to the party feel free to chime in.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
My Ti back-end was getting noticeably warm earlier, upon inspection there was some gunk found in the back-end threading, mostly on the top thread.
I used some isopropyl alcohol (99.8%) and a microfibre to fairly effectively clean the threads back. Deoxit or some other electronic cleaning agent would possibly work better or as well.

Now its clean, the difference is noticeable.
  • threads on/off easier
  • doesn't generate its own heat when on
  • performance is better, abv darker, no blue flickering during use, clouds more consistent
My blue hopper, the same one that got 5.5 chambers on a battery, started burning through a battery in about 1.5 bowls. I didn't notice much heat on the back-end, but the LEDs were flickering blue during use.
The threads on the back end had a tiny bit of dust/junk noticeable under direct light.
Using alcohol and microfibre, I gave it a quick but thorough clean and now I'm back at it with solid blue lights (same battery), twice the density of clouds, and much, much darker ABV.

I reckon I'll be cleaning my threads more often from now on.

---

Another thing I've noticed is that after you get red flashing lights, often you can still get a decent hit, sometimes several, with blue lights simply by turning it back on.
A while back I kept forgetting to change the battery and got 4 quick (10s) full density hits from a 'flat' battery. It seems to have a very conservative cut off.
 
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Gregori

CannaBoss
A little message to tell you I'm getting tired of HL's warranty service.

End of august my mouthpiece began to turn idle. As I wasn't able to close my GH properly, I asked for a warranty. Caroline told me to send the mouthpiece. I live in Europe so it's not cheap but I had no choice. On august 26 I mail them the mouthpiece along with my faulty charger. The post tracker tells me they received it on september 1st.

After patiently waiting, I mailed Caroline on september 10 to ask for some news. She claims she's received the charger but not the mouthpiece! WTF?! It was in the same enveloppe!

So now she tells she's going to double check and wonder if I need replacement or reparation. Keeping my calm I answer I just want a working vape. It's now september 15 and I still see nothing coming. It's really boring to deal with them. After their two years late delivery (full of "optimism"), I had to send my GH back once because of hot backend (which they tell me was "in the tolerance rate"), now that mouthpiece problem taking nearly a month...

Whenever I get it completely back, I don't know if I will keep it because that vape is really not reliable, nor their services.

I'm really annoyed by their customer service and attitude.
 

Elac

Silly rabbit trips are for kids
There is nothing wrong with that, working normally. Most chargers will charge between 4.1-4.2v

This is because the negative delta V cut off for this charger is 4.15V. It totally does not matter if they reach 4.2V. 3.7V is the normal operating voltage. They will only operate at 4.2V for seconds before almost immediately dropping to 3.7V where it will remain until dead. Unlike other chemistries of batteries, Li-ion does not drop in voltage gradually until the device stops, once below 3.7V it should stop pretty much immediately.
My point being that the voltmeter of the Nitecore is not perfectly accurate. Good chargers, lots use them just not the best IMO.
And under charging a li-ion battery by just 100mv results in about a 10% decrease in capacity.
Read the 4th paragraph on this page:
http://www.analog.com/library/analogdialogue/archives/31-2/liion.html
And more on it:
http://www.powerstream.com/lithium-ion-charge-voltage.htm
 
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Ed's TnT

Woodsman
Manufacturer
Also I was using it dry last night with the long skinny piece of the Lily mouthpiece from @Ed's TnT and it works surprisingly well. Smooths and conditions slightly with a longer blackwood path, and the wood seals well on the GH without scratching it like glass might, no silicone needed, you just have to hold it there during your hits. Somebody needs to send Ed a spare mouthpiece if they haven't already so he can whip up something proper that can be like a wood sleeve for the mouthpiece tip... Probably be a while before he has time to work on that though unfortunately either way

My man my man, neat find for using the Lily combo, great idea! You are so right bro, going to be a while before I can get into anything out of the ordinary and away from my latest project. By the way check my sig, not sure if you have seen my latest add. Glad to see the GH working out for you all, been hearing a little of this and a little of that, very cool!
 
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