Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

Status
Not open for further replies.

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
AFAIK, the Z's a 22mm joint length while the Splinter is 19mm.

Yeah, I meant standard "19mm joint" meaning 19mm width for both, while they vary in "19mm joint" length -- ie 22mm long for Z and 19mm for the regular Splinter. Sorry I always confuse you with my wording, don't I? :haw:

Is there a noticeable performance difference? Bigger must be better, right?? Right? Haha

Being a light user, is there any reason I should or shouldn’t go for the v2 Z over the regular splinter? My check boxes are flavor, low temp efficiency, and quick occasional on-demand use. Clearly getting the best convection experience means giving up stealth and portability, so the larger size of the z it ain’t no thang

Given the usage you describe, both Splinter models would easily satisfy you. They are each among the best convection experience available. The performance is noticable when comparing, but if you only get the regular Splinter you will likely be surprised to hear it could possibly get even better (better being totally subjective as well).

Ideally you want one of each since the Z is capable of the best flavor while the Splinter is quicker to heat up. I'd recommend a V2 and a ZV2.


I remembered why I didn't want to fuck with a double barrel: no micro usb.

I'm spoiled by having several dna mods of varying quality and I prefer to charge my batteries in the device rather than always popping them out and using my four bay Opus charger.

Ah they do say it's better to charge externally anyway, I only do internal for my bronze RX DNA since it is 3 batteries. My issue with the squid is just how tall and narrow it is, not a fan of all that overhang for splinters... If it was a side-by-side mod I would be in heaven!
 

david8613

Well-Known Member
That was a fast decision! Nice I would love to hear the differences
they all basically function the same in watts modes, I guess you can tweak them to your hearts desire. honestly I want to keep them all! they all are so nice in there own way but I only want to keep 2 so while one is charging the other will be ready to go. I kept the 2 that felt the best in my big ass hands, the voopoo x12 awesome light show and the wismec dna200.

the classifieds are here
fuckcombustion.com/forums/classifieds.29/
 
david8613,
  • Like
Reactions: LAWTHEONE

mucsusn

60 going on 20
Damn, missed the double-barrel! I have one already, would have liked another. GREAT mod for wattage mode, feels like its carved out of a block of metal.
 

dzunk

Well-Known Member
Well i got my splinter, burnin is done, i have had a few bowls. Im really impressed with it. I dont jave my mod dialed in like at all, but it still performs incredibly. It says its too hot all the time, hope im not doing something wrong? I am looking forward to try tcr mode as well (after i figure out how to install arctic fox).

Edit: BTW, huge thanks to everyone in this topic and splinter topic and in my thread about new vape choice for helping me to decide for a splinter (especially member GoldenBud). I just had 3 bowls of cbd weed and the effect is entirely different than when i was using my crafty. It was normal for me to turn on crafty, grindy my weed, load it in, put it in my pants, make myself a tea and then start vaping. With spliter its like: fill it, push a button, exhale a huge cloud & repeat. I wasnt even aware how much it pissed me off to wait 130-150second for crafty to heatup until i didnt have to for the first time. Before i would have had (hope this grammar is right or at least understandable) heated up my crafty i was already packing my third bowl. Amazing, amazing....
 
Last edited:

dzunk

Well-Known Member
has anyone encountered the device too hot message on any mod? I am using wismec rx gen 3, watt mode. i am starting at 25w, when the vapor is fading i raise the temp to 35w. i am taking long draws, 15s+ and the mod isnt hot at all, but keeps turning off(i would like to have at least 2-3bowls in a row and this allows me to use only half a bowl, then i have to stop). is that something that can be bypassed using arctic fox or do i have a faulty unit? i read online that i should tighen some screws inside the mod, i did that but with no change. any advice is welcomed (also the splinter is very hot to touch and the mod itself is also pretty hot)

EDIT: i tried to go to 50W now. the two first hits were amazing, then it just kept saysing device too hot. and indeed the mod is pretty hot, but you can hold it with no problem, my crafty used to ran much hotter. during my draws stats were: power 50, voltr 4.36,resistance 0.38ohm, 10-11amps
 
Last edited:
dzunk,

Alex3oe

Accessory Maker
I had a similar problem with a maybe faulty Cuboid 200 I purchased for my TuboX. Got this warning after a few draws, whatever settings of funkyjunkys firmware I used. Luckily the seller took back the Cuboid and got me an Evic Dual. The Evic Dual now works flawless with same settings and setup.
 
Alex3oe,

CaptVapor

Well-Known Member
Hello, sorry "v2" is difficult to search for in this thread. What is the difference between the Splinter Z and the Z V2? The v2 costs quite a bit less!
 
CaptVapor,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Hello, sorry "v2" is difficult to search for in this thread. What is the difference between the Splinter Z and the Z V2? The v2 costs quite a bit less!

Regular Z is a custom Z, using exotic wood made by RBT in the US (I believe they still use mica insulators in the heater). ZV's are made using standard wood and are manufactured in China (they use ceramic insulators in the heater), ZV1 is bubinga and ZV2 is blackwood with smoked glass. Then regular Splinter V2 is blackwood with smoked glass and ceramic insulator, but with the smaller simpler Milaana heater as opposed to the larger more complex Zion heater that's found in all the SplinterZ's.
 

CaptVapor

Well-Known Member
Thanks @Shit Snacks , you're a wealth of inofrm
Regular Z is a custom Z, using exotic wood made by RBT in the US (I believe they still use mica insulators in the heater). ZV's are made using standard wood and are manufactured in China (they use ceramic insulators in the heater), ZV1 is bubinga and ZV2 is blackwood with smoked glass. Then regular Splinter V2 is blackwood with smoked glass and ceramic insulator, but with the smaller simpler Milaana heater as opposed to the larger more complex Zion heater that's found in all the SplinterZ's.

Thanks Snacks, you're always a wealth of information. Saw a post where you prefer the flavor from your mica unit and Krazy preferred his ceramic. Any other thoughts on ceramic vs mica?

Also read something about the ZV's breaking glass more easily, has this been rectified?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Thanks @Shit Snacks , you're a wealth of inofrm


Thanks Snacks, you're always a wealth of information. Saw a post where you prefer the flavor from your mica unit and Krazy preferred his ceramic. Any other thoughts on ceramic vs mica?

Also read something about the ZV's breaking glass more easily, has this been rectified?

I'm not sure about taste, I don't think the ceramic or mica affects that honestly. I think US custom units arrive pre burned in and are just a little purer tasting than the Chinese units out of the box. Taste across the whole line is fantastic in general, certainly comprable to OG Zion and Milaana, so I'm not sure the insulator material really matters? Either Mica or Ceramic are fine.

As far as breakage, I don't think we've seen many reports with the ZV, it uses the standard 19/22 mm glass joints and while it may not be quite as thick and durable as the custom Z glass, I would expect it to hold up a little better than the regular 19/19 V2 glass... Supposedly the smoked glass is thicker then the old clear glass in V1s too, and quality control in the manufacturing process has also improved since the early production runs, so I wouldn't worry too much about breakage either way. I mean it's still glass so you just gotta take good care of it!
 

RxPlorer

Well-Known Member
After a lot of consideration, I ordered the v2 Z! Thanks to everyone for the feedback and suggestions.

For a mod I think I’m going with the
Reuleaux RX GEN3 for its price and popularity, since I guess the Evic dual has been discontinued.

What are the best online retailers of box mods in the us?

The only thing I don’t like about this whole box mod-based dry herb vaporization is letting my money go anywhere near the tobacco industry. I keep telling myself it’s just a battery regulator.

Thanks again, @Shit Snacks @Mr. Me2 @Summer and everyone that has reached out to help their neighbor. You know I’m talking to you :)
 
Last edited:

Summer

Long Island, NY
@jbm, you have to have the app installed, be registered & following rastabuddhatao. Then you will see the circles along the top of your feed. The streams are the ones with the red play arrow in them - like youtube. (After you view a stream, the arrow will turn grey so you know you already accessed it.) The stories don't have arrows in them.
 
Summer,

jbm

Not a Vapman “beta tester”
@jbm, you have to have the app installed, be registered & following rastabuddhatao. Then you will see the circles along the top of your feed. The streams are the ones with the red play arrow in them - like youtube. (After you view a stream, the arrow will turn grey so you know you already accessed it.) The stories don't have arrows in them.
Thanks. I did figure it out and will watch the stream a bit later.
 
jbm,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Last edited:

FLelder ent

Well-Known Member
I have today joined the ranks of the Splinter Z owners group.

I have paired my V2 Z with a WISMEC Reuleaux RX GEN3 Dual TC Box Mod 230W. It's a great looking package, brushed stainless box mod, blackwood Z V2, short smokedglass stem. My daily drivers are (were?) an E-Nano log and an OG Solo. The Z looks like and /acts like a combination of them both... the portability of the Solo and the On Demand of the E-Nano .

I'll figure out the stem option later ... long XL8R, Nub, DDave, WPA, etc...

I wasn't a box mod guy before so it's going take a while to figure it all out...using 35 Watts to start for now....K.I.S.S.!

Thank you.


My VAS has been satisfied for now.:peace:
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom