lordtinuviel
Well-Known Member
it works, I just want to tweak it a bit more and also had the chance to try TCR so I can compare
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
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it works, I just want to tweak it a bit more and also had the chance to try TCR so I can compare
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
TCR 120
45W
Temp starting from 185C and go above when needed
Stir it when you reach 200
**ohms should be around 0.4
lordtinuviel
Well-Known Member
thank you so much! I’m really enjoying this vape, still playing with it but so far it has become my daily driver
Is it possible to put a screen at the end of the glass mouthpiece and then full the whole glass tip?
Sensory Leaf
Well-Known Member
You can, but in my experience it requires; stirring every few hits and a slight bump in power, due to the greater distance from heater
lordtinuviel
Well-Known Member
thank you, just looking for ways to increase the bowl size...maybe dosing capsules?
FLelder ent
Well-Known Member
I just ordered a V2 Blackwood Splinter Z. I was planning on using my existing box mod (Itaste MVP) at the beginning, but I learned that it is not powerful enough, 11 W max. So I have been reading the FC threads about the z and box mods. It looks like you either go with a Wismec (Reuleaux, Sinuous p80) or Istick Pico, Joytech, Eleaf. Then there's DNA and TC. I'm a little confused and am asking for some help. I would like someone to recommend a specific box mod, available from a US supplier, thats not too complicated and expensive . I already have 18650 batteries and charger. TIA
Sensory Leaf
Well-Known Member
A p80 if you don't need alot of battery life, or if you don't mind carrying spare batteries, or a Rx Gen 3 dual (2 battery device for more battery life)
Both are compact, widely available, very reasonably priced, allow for custom firmware and most importantly; are very widely used, and therefore you can "copy" others' settings.
If you do go with the dual, bare in mind; twin battery devices, the batteries should be "married"; bought, charged and used as a pair... Batteries that aren't married, will discharge at different rates, causing potential safety issues.
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
I’m a noob too waiting on my first Splinter. I went with the Reuleaux gen3 dual based on recommendations here. I found it for under $40 + shipping and it got to me fast. I’m not worried about tc to start. I figure I’ll get my feet wet with wattage settings. Even though I haven’t used it yet, I’m very happy with the look, feel, and build quality.
Sensory Leaf
Well-Known Member
Good shout... IV got a regular splinter and a z, and also have a DNA mod with TCR all setup, but I only ever use wattage mode
lordtinuviel
Well-Known Member
I currently have a p80 and it works great but I want to get a reuleaux gen 3 or a dna
Something I'm noticing, alot of 510 mod userd keep asking about tcr and all these extra modes but in the end I see the same users just using wattage. When I had my splinter I used it in wattage at 30 watts and it was excellent. I'm going to set up my splinter Z when it comes in with a wismec dna 200 to see what the hoopla is all about. What exactly are the benefits of using these other modes and settings?
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Sensory Leaf
Well-Known Member
In TCR; the mod monitors the resistance of the coil (as a metals temperature changes, so does it's resistance *overly simplistic explanation, but it will do for this statement*) from this change, the mod will extrapolate the temperature of the coil.
Different mods, perform TCR with varying degrees of success. Some mods (which are built around a DNA chipset) are considered as being the most accurate at TCR, and also allow you to download and install a "profile" to the mod, which will change all the settings. Some very technical users, with some very technical tools and knowledge far greater then I understand, have created these profiles for various 510 vapes, and so it's just a case of downloading them. Devices that aren't DNA based, can get TCR setup, but it will involve trial and error to find the settings what perform best.
For me; I quickly realised that setting a temperature in TCR in fact is almost as arbitrary as setting a wattage: air that is drawn quickly past a coil at 420 degrees, will be a vastly different temperature to air that is drawn slowly past the coil... So I concluded; find a wattage, and concentrate on a consistent draw speed... I haven't gone back to TCR since
This is good to know, so basically better off using the K.I.S.S. method, keep it simple stupid! lol... I have a couple of mod boxes to experiment with. do you know were to get these profiles for dna 200 just for curiosity sake I would like to try it. the only thing I could see this tc is good for is a person who doesn't understand the pulsing technique and is worried about combusting.
FLelder ent
Well-Known Member
Thank you all, thats the kind of discussion I was hoping for. I"ll just get the Reuleaux gen3 dual and K.I.S.S.
Summer
Long Island, NY
I don't understand all this talk about pulsing. AFAIK, most using tcr don't pulse, just draw straight through the firing time. After all, unlike a Milaana, the mod is a regulated device. And apart from very low wattage cruise use, 25 seconds is usually the max length of a draw, so no need to pulse. 
The main difference between TCR and wattage modes is that TCR varies the power sent to the heater in order to keep the resistance constant, while wattage mode just sends power to the heater as long as you hold the button. In theory then, TCR mode should result in better battery life. In practice, I have not observed enough difference to matter. As far as I can tell, this isn't why most people want TCR anyway. The popular reason seems to be accurate temperature control.
Now, repeat after me: accurate temperature control is a unicorn; you just need to be in the ballpark.
There are so many other variables at work that achieving an exact temperature is overwhelmed. Besides, as @Sensory Leaf correctly points out, TCR works by measuring the resistance change of the heater. This is why TCR settings include a resistance value. If you set your temperature and don't get the results you expect, guess what advice you'll get? Change your resistance! In other words, fudge the equation the firmware is using to determine how much power to send to the heater until you get the results you expect. This is not accurate temperature control, it's messing around to get in the ballpark.
Now, repeat after me: accurate temperature control is a unicorn; you just need to be in the ballpark.
There are so many other variables at work that achieving an exact temperature is overwhelmed. Besides, as @Sensory Leaf correctly points out, TCR works by measuring the resistance change of the heater. This is why TCR settings include a resistance value. If you set your temperature and don't get the results you expect, guess what advice you'll get? Change your resistance! In other words, fudge the equation the firmware is using to determine how much power to send to the heater until you get the results you expect. This is not accurate temperature control, it's messing around to get in the ballpark.
I don't understand all this talk about pulsing. AFAIK, most using tcr don't pulse, just draw straight through the firing time. After all, unlike a Milaana, the mod is a regulated device. And apart from very low wattage cruise use, 25 seconds is usually the max length of a draw, so no need to pulse.
your right summer I used the word "pulse" incorrectly, the mod I was using draw time is set to just 10 seconds so I would let go of trigger and then repress the trigger to get my 10 second plus draw. didn't mean to confuse anyone, I should have said reengage or something like that.
Alex3oe
Accessory Maker
The Tubo for example has a perfect working TCR mode. But here the whole device and the software on the box mod are made by funkyjunky. Each Tubo is measured separately and the software is tweaked with this exact numbers for this device. As far as I know, you need quite some good and expensive hardware to measure resistance accurate.
Each coil, or the mesh in the Splinters, has different resistance numbers and these numbers are not linear, so each device will need different TCR settings. This makes it very hard to find settings for your Splinter that really fit your needs.
Each coil, or the mesh in the Splinters, has different resistance numbers and these numbers are not linear, so each device will need different TCR settings. This makes it very hard to find settings for your Splinter that really fit your needs.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Someone said because coils are supposed to be working TCR so it's easier to control other than mesh SS (splinters) or even double mesh (sZ)
I'm not sure why
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Because meshes are woven. So with every strand you get hundreds of different contact points, each having it own contact resistance with the other strands. Then all strands form a very complex parallel circuit network.
Add to that the fact current is not flowing completely uniformly through it, especially around the edges. Then there is also the metal expansion and contraction that will make all the above vary in real-time.
So basically it's a very complex dynamic system, much harder to predict by just measuring the global resistance change.
In a similar way, it's easier to perform TC on a single classic ecig coil vs dual or quadruple coils designs.
Really, to keep the high surface area and increase TC ability what we would need is a perforated SS sheet, not a woven mesh. Said sheets are rather easy to source with various perforation patterns and you can roll them easily (removing the need for insulator plates)
But again as I said earlier, the HSA heater shines in power mode due to its high mass and inertia. That's the beauty of it, all other unregulated heaters with tiny coils are super hard to control manually.
Add to that the fact current is not flowing completely uniformly through it, especially around the edges. Then there is also the metal expansion and contraction that will make all the above vary in real-time.
So basically it's a very complex dynamic system, much harder to predict by just measuring the global resistance change.
In a similar way, it's easier to perform TC on a single classic ecig coil vs dual or quadruple coils designs.
Really, to keep the high surface area and increase TC ability what we would need is a perforated SS sheet, not a woven mesh. Said sheets are rather easy to source with various perforation patterns and you can roll them easily (removing the need for insulator plates)
But again as I said earlier, the HSA heater shines in power mode due to its high mass and inertia. That's the beauty of it, all other unregulated heaters with tiny coils are super hard to control manually.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
That's why the recommended TCR value for Splinter is 120-140 altough simple SS Coil requires the value of 92? and the Tubo Evic is around 185 because it has 3/4 coils?
Higher surface area so the higher TCR value other than the simple one which in theory should be 92?
thanks
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Not so much. With any new Splinter you can just accept the cold ohms reading from whatever mod you put it on and tweak from there if it's a little hot or cold for your purposes. Or if you'd rather start from the typical ranges for a V1, V2, or Z that also works really well.
It's actually a strength of the Splinter line that they perform so well on a variety of mods. You can opt for one, two or three batteries and you can get a better mod later and upgrade your same old Splinter. I prefer that modular approach especially because of how well dna mods work with these 510 heaters. I'd rather pay for a fancier mod than pay a vape manufacturer to wrap a more affordable mod in wood and permanently connect it to a 510 heater.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
But, but , but, who doesn't love Unicorns? Aren't we ALL on a search for Unicorns?
Anyway, I, and I imagine most people who want to use TC mode, don't really care if 375 on the display corresponds accurately with 375° of temperature. What _I_ am looking for is for 375 on the display to provide roughly the same temperature every time I choose it. It isn't accuracy I want, it is consistency. And the DNA chip mod I use is WAY better than my RX 2/3 at doing that. With the RX I find myself using wattage and using it more like I use my Milaana with ramping temps. This works fine and I use it this way, but I prefer the DNA mod and the ability to get more consistent results.
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