Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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money2

Well-Known Member
I also agree that the China thing is nothing to turn your nose up at: I have a DEAR to me Wenge Z that looks great and performs as well, but i SWEAR that my V1Z (chinese -bubinga!?- Z) performs better than the US Z.

What is the cold resistantance of your wenge Z?

mod note: edited to fix broken quote
 
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money2,

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
can some of splinter experts tell me what is the differences between the splinter v1, splinter v2, splinter z? thanks!

You asked so I will try to answer. If you can afford it buy a Custom Z made in the USA by Ryan.

I personally lost the glass inside a V1 and a V2 Splinter. Neither of these vapes was dropped or even taken out of the house. I have numerous other vapes with glass chambers (3 Tubo models, Milaana, Custom Z, Custom hi Flow Splinter. I had no glass problems with these other vapes either.

The only glass problem I had was with the V1 and V2.
 

RastaBuddhaTao

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
You asked so I will try to answer. If you can afford it buy a Custom Z made in the USA by Ryan.

I personally lost the glass inside a V1 and a V2 Splinter. Neither of these vapes was dropped or even taken out of the house. I have numerous other vapes with glass chambers (3 Tubo models, Milaana, Custom Z, Custom hi Flow Splinter. I had no glass problems with these other vapes either.

The only glass problem I had was with the V1 and V2.

How is your replacement Splinter working out?

A small percentage of the first batch of units had wood that was fit too tight to the glass... when run at high temperatures the wood could shrink down on the glass causing excess stress... if this problem exist it shows up in the first 30 days and we have a repair by replacement policy which takes care of our customers who have experienced these failures. With proper use and care these things will last forever.

Some things to practice is to lightly apply the mouthpiece avoiding any side loading. It is also good to take out the mouthpiece when not in use as it is the lever that causes the stress that breaks the female glass. Always lay your mod down on it's side to prevent it from being knocked over. It is glass... it does break. The US made units have thicker glass and still will break all the same. Fragile... must be Italian?

All Splinters are on sale now... thanks to all for the continued support.
 

david8613

Well-Known Member
How is your replacement Splinter working out?

A small percentage of the first batch of units had wood that was fit too tight to the glass... when run at high temperatures the wood could shrink down on the glass causing excess stress... if this problem exist it shows up in the first 30 days and we have a repair by replacement policy which takes care of our customers who have experienced these failures. With proper use and care these things will last forever.

Some things to practice is to lightly apply the mouthpiece avoiding any side loading. It is also good to take out the mouthpiece when not in use as it is the lever that causes the stress that breaks the female glass. Always lay your mod down on it's side to prevent it from being knocked over. It is glass... it does break. The US made units have thicker glass and still will break all the same. Fragile... must be Italian?

All Splinters are on sale now... thanks to all for the continued support.

Thank you for the heads up!
 
david8613,

Max3334

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I just recently bought wismec RX gen 3 with the splinter Z. I was not able to load the myevic software, I had to use the Sur_myevice software. I got it to work in TCR 165 at 40w and 375 degree and .43ohm locked in. It works well with Cuise control. I would like to know if TCR 165 if safe. When I try to use it at TCR 120 at 40w and 375 degree and .43ohm locked in, after a few seconds on cruise control it reads low atomizer and at times check atomizer. If you could send me any pointer it would help, thank you.
 
Max3334,

LAWTHEONE

CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
What is the average lifespan of the US custom unit? Of course with care, and in a rotation with other vapes.

Loving my Splinter Z. Not sure if I should invest in a spare?
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
What is the average lifespan of the US custom unit? Of course with care, and in a rotation with other vapes.

Loving my Splinter Z. Not sure if I should invest in a spare?
Ryan, who invented the Splinter, just said a few posts back that with proper care they'll last forever. To your point about the spare, I just sold a V1 to justify a ZV2 purchase. I considered another custom Z. I still own a pair of V2s and a V1. I'll be curious how the ZV2 compares to the custom Z because my V1 and V2 Splinters are notably more even and less hot spotty than my og Splinter, which I sold to a friend.

So you might try a ZV1 or ZV2 as a spare to compromise on cost. @Shit Snacks was just bemoaning broken glass issues with his Chinese manufactured Splinters but I think those concerns are overblown. Ryan was explaining that it was a design issue with the first batch and my experience is consistent with that. I think @Shit Snacks endured multiple breaks and decided to stick with the custom Zs. I went the cheapskate route and have four Chinese Splinters that are all in rotation and working great.

In both cases we're solving the problem of liking the Splinter so much we'd hate to ever be without one. I thought about another custom Z but my blackwood V2s are so great and I thought the cheaper ZV2 would look good on the three cell DNA250C that arrived yesterday.

The finish on my Chinese Splinters is also aging better than my bubinga custom Z, which is looking much closer to unfinished after a year of use.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
The Z had only been out since 9/18 so the ultimate lifespan is unknown. But since it has no electronic parts there's no reason it shouldn't last for years if you treat it with care physically & you don't burn out the mesh with excessive wattage or prolonged heating.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Ryan, who invented the Splinter, just said a few posts back that with proper care they'll last forever. To your point about the spare, I just sold a V1 to justify a ZV2 purchase. I considered another custom Z. I still own a pair of V2s and a V1. I'll be curious how the ZV2 compares to the custom Z because my V1 and V2 Splinters are notably more even and less hot spotty than my og Splinter, which I sold to a friend.

So you might try a ZV1 or ZV2 as a spare to compromise on cost. @Shit Snacks was just bemoaning broken glass issues with his Chinese manufactured Splinters but I think those concerns are overblown. Ryan was explaining that it was a design issue with the first batch and my experience is consistent with that. I think @Shit Snacks endured multiple breaks and decided to stick with the custom Zs. I went the cheapskate route and have four Chinese Splinters that are all in rotation and working great.

In both cases we're solving the problem of liking the Splinter so much we'd hate to ever be without one. I thought about another custom Z but my blackwood V2s are so great and I thought the cheaper ZV2 would look good on the three cell DNA250C that arrived yesterday.

The finish on my Chinese Splinters is also aging better than my bubinga custom Z, which is looking much closer to unfinished after a year of use.

No, not me, you are thinking of @sickmanfraud LOL you even tagged me twice, fool! :p

I do still want a spare Custom Z though, instead of a ZV, though I like my V2 fine, I prefer the custom Zs personally... Just not the price lol
 

LAWTHEONE

CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
I purchased the XLR8 extra long (sneaky Pete), long (v goodies), & short stem (RTB), 2 Ddaves cooling mods. I will be purchasing 1 more US custom Splinter Z soon. The taste and effects are out of this world! Better experience than my MV1.
 

david8613

Well-Known Member
I purchased the XLR8 extra long (sneaky Pete), long (v goodies), & short stem (RTB), 2 Ddaves cooling mods. I will be purchasing 1 more US custom Splinter Z soon. The taste and effects are out of this world! Better experience than my MV1.

Wow better than the mv1! I Cant wait to try one, I have a splinter on its way to my home, not a z but I'm still excited!
 

LAWTHEONE

CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
The hardest part of the Splinter Z was getting it all dialed in. I ran through mad herb :bang:. I even combusted once :cuss:. Once I found my sweet spot it’s been wonderful!:love:. It runs a little different on all three of my box mods.
 
LAWTHEONE,
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sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
No, not me, you are thinking of @sickmanfraud LOL you even tagged me twice, fool! :p

I do still want a spare Custom Z though, instead of a ZV, though I like my V2 fine, I prefer the custom Zs personally... Just not the price lol

Maybe the "Universe" is telling me to press on.

You told me "enough" and you get blamed. If you could see the smile on my face....

Back to the Splinter z, I would still recommend the Custom Splinter Z .

For a $40 difference in price I would say pay up, you will not regret it.

My guess is that you will always be able to pick up a Splinter of some V ersiin, but when Ryan runs out of the thick glass from Germany there will be no more Custom Z's.

Darn it, I'm talking myself in another Custom Z. Canary wood is calling my name.


Wow better than the mv1! I Cant wait to try one, I have a splinter on its way to my home, not a z but I'm still excited!

@david8613 make sure you get a decent mod. It makes a real difference.
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I just recently bought wismec RX gen 3 with the splinter Z. I was not able to load the myevic software, I had to use the Sur_myevice software. I got it to work in TCR 165 at 40w and 375 degree and .43ohm locked in. It works well with Cuise control. I would like to know if TCR 165 if safe. When I try to use it at TCR 120 at 40w and 375 degree and .43ohm locked in, after a few seconds on cruise control it reads low atomizer and at times check atomizer. If you could send me any pointer it would help, thank you.

TCR 120 is the way to go, in my opinion. SS is around 100, here's a mesh SS heater so the recommended TCR is around 120 as I understood.

Low atomizer? try to screw the Z not all the way in, not too hard into the 510.
 
GoldenBud,

jbm

Well-Known Member
The Z had only been out since 9/18 so the ultimate lifespan is unknown. But since it has no electronic parts there's no reason it shouldn't last for years if you treat it with care physically & you don't burn out the mesh with excessive wattage or prolonged heating.
I know this, and yet despite having a custom Z bubinga, and 2 Splinters (one a v2, one a custom walnut) I’m thinking of buying a purple heart custom.
 

Logic

Old Skool Member ‘10
I know this, and yet despite having a custom Z bubinga, and 2 Splinters (one a v2, one a custom walnut) I’m thinking of buying a purple heart custom.

Totally go with a PH Custom Z. That is what I’m getting as soon as I can buy one, for sure!
 
Logic,
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