jbm
Well-Known Member
I’ve always liked the looks of the purple heart Z more than the bubinga, so I bought it. That’ll probably become my main driver and the bubinga the backup.
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
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I don't have a "Z" yet, running a normal splinter, I am going to put artic fox on my mod, can you explain the auto fire feature, sounds interesting.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Auto fire let's you keep the heater running without needing to continuously hold the fire button. You'll also hear it called "cruise" in different firmware like sur_myevic or the Tubo firmware. People use it to run their Splinter like a log vape heating at a low wattage for minutes at a time.
I have it enabled by just a long press on my rxg3d running myevic. I use it to be lazy and not hold the button for my long fifteen to twenty second draws but I wouldn't trust just anyone to use that feature because it could damage the device if you forget to disengage it.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
If I had a drawer full of Splinters 
I might consider using cruise mode on my RX 2/3, but holding the button isn't difficult enough for me to be worth any potential damage to the mesh heater. I haven't settled on any TC mode with that mod and just use it in wattage mode. It then behaves more like my Milaana.
I might consider using cruise mode on my RX 2/3, but holding the button isn't difficult enough for me to be worth any potential damage to the mesh heater. I haven't settled on any TC mode with that mod and just use it in wattage mode. It then behaves more like my Milaana.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I think he does it all, even very high wattage because he can rip big and quick!
Autofire on ArcticFox is up to 60 seconds, and can be engaged tapping twice just like Tubo (which has even more options to engage, with a wide run time range, and is called cruise). Meanwhile surmyevic is autofire that can only be engaged via long press up to 25sec or it is the only one with an infinity option (which is the riskiest of all!)
I use surmyevic on my RXG3D with my Canary Z autofire 25s, which I typically stop earlier more like 8-20sec. It is much easier for use through water, usually at 45 watts (and up to 65w for dabs). Tap it on, hit (and spin it if you like), tap it off, then clear. No real risk in my usage, all reward
Still need to try TCR some day, love it with Tubo and my Imp on ArcticFox (I think I like both better than surmyevic actually) but I've had my SplinterV2 on RXdna250 for a pretty tame temp control experience that is still pretty nice. Kinda cool with an RBT vape, but yeah wattage mode really unleashes the beast properly...
Autofire on ArcticFox is up to 60 seconds, and can be engaged tapping twice just like Tubo (which has even more options to engage, with a wide run time range, and is called cruise). Meanwhile surmyevic is autofire that can only be engaged via long press up to 25sec or it is the only one with an infinity option (which is the riskiest of all!)
I use surmyevic on my RXG3D with my Canary Z autofire 25s, which I typically stop earlier more like 8-20sec. It is much easier for use through water, usually at 45 watts (and up to 65w for dabs). Tap it on, hit (and spin it if you like), tap it off, then clear. No real risk in my usage, all reward
Still need to try TCR some day, love it with Tubo and my Imp on ArcticFox (I think I like both better than surmyevic actually) but I've had my SplinterV2 on RXdna250 for a pretty tame temp control experience that is still pretty nice. Kinda cool with an RBT vape, but yeah wattage mode really unleashes the beast properly...
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
The thing is, the beauty of the HSA RBT heater is all about being able to work in power mode. You see it's perfectly possible to use very tiny e-cig coils like in the Imp, or previously in the Project. But those vapes are barely usable in power mode: they have too little inertia. The coil(s) get to temperature very fast, glowing red if you are not careful, and then they cool down much too fast. In TC mode they work pretty fine and are very efficient.
All RBT heaters, including the Zion and Milaana ones are outstanding because they allow you to vape fantastically with very simple or no regulation at all. The inertia of the large metal mass makes it very easy and forgiving, while the high surface area means the whole thing doesn't need to glow the slightest.
This is why many users don't even bother with TC and just stick to power, which yields a very organic user experience, with gradual temperature stepping happening very naturally without the user even noticing. It's also true that making the mesh TC properly can be a bit more challenging than simple e-cig coils, so there is that too.
All RBT heaters, including the Zion and Milaana ones are outstanding because they allow you to vape fantastically with very simple or no regulation at all. The inertia of the large metal mass makes it very easy and forgiving, while the high surface area means the whole thing doesn't need to glow the slightest.
This is why many users don't even bother with TC and just stick to power, which yields a very organic user experience, with gradual temperature stepping happening very naturally without the user even noticing. It's also true that making the mesh TC properly can be a bit more challenging than simple e-cig coils, so there is that too.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
He can also swap out a heater if he kills one. I can't.
I used to my other vapes like the mighty, mv1 and firefly2 they are regulated. everyone says just use wattage but I am afraid I am going to do it wrong, never messed with regulated. I messed with the stem pod but lost patience fast, I didn't take the time to learn how to use it. the first time I used the the stem pod I got zero vapor, and the next day a sore throat from all the hot air I inhaled, !00% user error. gonna take my time this time. before I go into custom firmware, what should my settings be in wattage and what should my technique be? how long of a heat up?
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Splinter is another kind of vape. High Surface Area Heater. It's way different than the coils in Stempod.
Wattage mod will be GREAT
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
He can also swap out a heater if he kills one. I can't.
Haha true, but don't think he's ever killed many heaters, these things are pretty resilient! As we know, but yeah, still a prized piece so feels precious...
It will work similar to Firefly in use, hold down button with slow steady inhale draw increasing in speed over time until you let go and draw fast to clear it. Can take a little to get going at first, as it heat soaks, but you can try to preheat for 5 seconds without drawing too before your hit. Try a range of 35 watts to 45 watts.
Oh and if you have the G3D, it will cut off and shut off the button is held for 10 seconds. There is a secret menu to change this to 15 seconds, by the way you may need to re press in the middle of a hit (if you do a little preheat first, 15sec should be enough time though, to avoid it shutting off on you-- an average should be under 15 seconds but you never know user to user, hit to hit. Experiment to find what works for you
flammy
Well-Known Member
100% agree with this. I tried TCR with the splinter for less than a week and then tried wattage with much better consistency. I'm wattage only now and it works great like that (makes sense given that its recommended by Ryan to be used that way). Usually 28-36W and plus 5-7 for the Z. This makes it an 510 option since you can get just about any mod to run it (other than SBS).
LAWTHEONE
CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
TC mode will ABSOLUTELY work GREAT with this device. I have 4 different mod boxes and the device runs a little different on each one.
For all those who aren’t comfortable with wattage mode. Have no fear TC mode is here. TC mode is giving me sensational results.
I’m the type of person who would much rather press the button and let the chip do all the work, instead of me feathering the button and counting down in my head. Just takes a lot of trial and error & herb. After you think you have your results the way you want them you’re going to try something else and fine-tune it a little more.
I’ve been loving the way my Splinter Z performs with my Voopoo drag original the most. I seem to enjoy The original better than the Drag 2.
For all those who aren’t comfortable with wattage mode. Have no fear TC mode is here. TC mode is giving me sensational results.
I’m the type of person who would much rather press the button and let the chip do all the work, instead of me feathering the button and counting down in my head. Just takes a lot of trial and error & herb. After you think you have your results the way you want them you’re going to try something else and fine-tune it a little more.
I’ve been loving the way my Splinter Z performs with my Voopoo drag original the most. I seem to enjoy The original better than the Drag 2.
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah, posts like this make we want to give it a try too, but all the tinkering involved, trial and error... I guess I got too lazy for that in my "old" vaper age (5+ years, still young! lol) since I am so used to this way of vaping having beta tested the OG Zion and starting with a Thermovape T1 way back when. I'll try to configure temp control some day, I swear, maybe once I finally cave and get a second Z... Splinter's great regardless
jbm
Well-Known Member
Right now I’m running my custom Z on a Reauleaux gen3 dual. Arctic Fox, 42w preheat for 2 seconds, then auto fire at 35w. I’m turning a xl8r stem in the Splinter on a slow pull. I’m getting incredible flavor and clouds. Good, even extraction. Vapor is delicious. What do I need tc for?
Psyentist
Well-Known Member
I have my Z running on a paranormal dna250c in tc mode (fcshare profile) and it’s the business! TC mode takes away any technique necessary. Just hold the button and draw as fast or as slow as you like, the mod works out any button feathering. I’ve handed mine to people that have never seen a vape before and they’ve had great results. The initial kick is better in tc mode as well with the wattage set to 55w and a preheat of 65w. I tried going back to power mode but it takes too long to heat up. I tried tc mode on another mod too (Geekvape) at tcr 140, 55w and it works pretty much as well as the DNA. The only setting you need to configure with either of the mods is the temp value. Adjust as necessary depending on what the avb looks like. For anyone that hasn’t tried tc mode I highly recommend it! 
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
what was wrong in wattage mod? less cloudy? less accurate?I have my Z running on a paranormal dna250c in tc mode (fcshare profile) and it’s the business! TC mode takes away any technique necessary. Just hold the button and draw as fast or as slow as you like, the mod works out any button feathering. I’ve handed mine to people that have never seen a vape before and they’ve had great results. The initial kick is better in tc mode as well with the wattage set to 55w and a preheat of 65w. I tried going back to power mode but it takes too long to heat up. I tried tc mode on another mod too (Geekvape) at tcr 140, 55w and it works pretty much as well as the DNA. The only setting you need to configure with either of the mods is the temp value. Adjust as necessary depending on what the avb looks like. For anyone that hasn’t tried tc mode I highly recommend it!
Psyentist
Well-Known Member
Nothing really wrong, it just took longer to heat up. You could run in wattage at 65w for the same effect (I’ve seen Ryan running a Z at 125w on IG!) but you’d need to be pretty good at feathering the button. And with tc you can get every last bit of vapour without fear of combusting. It’s basically foolproof.
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GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
I got the Z on DNA250, 15s hit for a huge cloud, at 50W
how much time took you?
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
I messed with wattage mode briefly and just felt like I was wasting time when a dialed in TC profile rips way better, ime. Idk, YMMV, but I much preferred TC mode with my Z, way more pleasurable for me. Agree with others on TCR values, maybe start at .00120 and go up to .00130 or even .00140 depending on AVB desired and how tightly you pack your bowls (tighter bowls require lower TCR, ime).
Psyentist
Well-Known Member
Definitely quicker in tc, imho. Start getting vapour in about 2 seconds, fast draw.
50w power mode wouldn’t be too slow, I was using 38w, but you’d have to be careful with the button.
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GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Started from 45W, It had OK flavor because the clouds were big (after 10-15s of drawing), but really huge cloud at 50W
Felt like a pure desktop device, at 50W. Dunno if I'd start at 50W in the beginning. Maybe if I wanted to finish the bowl in 2-3 hits.
PS I never used the XL8R stem, So I knew exactly when to stop my draw. I mean it was easier to perform really well in my first usage of the Z.
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