Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

[Bumping Spheda]

I'm interested in hearing similar experiences, I can't be the only one who has gone through this.

I'm still fuddling with TCR's! Just combusted 30 minutes ago. Packed her a little heavier than I usually do and it got me. Cleaned it out with iso/salt and bumped her TCR down 4 in escribe. Not too much, still going for full extraction. Will test later, just took a couple dabs out my Sai/Poseidon combo, don't need a flower hit right now.

 

[Summer]

Which symbol is the resistance value? Sorry I'm new to mods

Ω < a horseshoe symbol. In wattage mode the cold resistance resides around for .40 I never lock the resistance in wattage, but I believe most do in TCR mode.

You should peruse this thread & these 2 other threads & also google e-cig box mod settings, firmware, etc. to learn all about firmware & settings. It takes a while till it makes sense.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/page-9

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...nvection-510-vapes.25465/page-49#post-1405100

*Be sure you ask the reg. Splinter questions in that thread & the Z questions in this thread.

 

[eideal852]

So, am I likely stuck with this smell to my unit? That might end up being a dealbreaker, I don’t care for the taste that is left in my mouth after.

Bleh, I’m kicking myself over this. I love my Z.

You’re probably OK, I have a dreamwood glow that I combusted in real early on, and that is a wood stem, so it holds onto it even more. Just run a bunch of loads through it, it’ll get better and better, at some point it’ll be unnoticeable.

That’s if all we’re talking about is regular combustion of herb. If something burned out inside, dunno

 

[sickmanfraud]

Just run a bunch of loads through it, it’ll get better and better, at some point it’ll be unnoticeable.

Does it have to be cannabis? Nothing like mint which may cover better and cost less?

What would happen if you were to cover the threading and air holes very well and then put the vape into a box of Arm & Hammer Baking Soda?

 

[almost there]

Does it have to be cannabis? Nothing like mint which may cover better and cost less?

What would happen if you were to cover the threading and air holes very well and then put the vape into a box of Arm & Hammer Baking Soda?

hows about you do a few burn ins? Heat your Z on 55 watts and insert a stem with nothing loaded, heat up the Z in 10 sec intervals and blow the air into the device so the exhaust comes out the vent holes.

 

[eideal852]

Does it have to be cannabis? Nothing like mint which may cover better and cost less?

I’m sure, but at least in my case, it was obviously Smokey, but not horrible. It’s not like I sat there for two hours running loads through it, tearing through weed. Just vapes like I’d vape, and it went away.

Anything else, unless you love it, would just be potentially another hint to have to get out.

 

[GoldenBud]

I can recommend this DNA75 mod for the Z, very accurate, under 60$ although only carries 1 battery
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000006046301.html

 

[Easywider]

I can recommend this DNA75 mod for the Z, very accurate, under 60$ although only carries 1 battery
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000006046301.html

Interesting, good price for a DNA mod. You could use the squank storage portion to hold some fresh herb, dosing capsules or some abv.

 

[eideal852]

Interesting, good price for a DNA mod. You could use the squank storage portion to hold some fresh herb, dosing capsules or some abv.

yessss, ive been thinking how dope a squonk'd be for stash

 

[Jayvape]

what's the resistance value?

.39

 

[GoldenBud]

.39

this is ok. in wattage mod at 40w you get good results?

 

[Jayvape]

this is ok. in wattage mod at 40w you get good results?

I've only tried it in TCR, is 40w a good wattage to vape at?

 

[GoldenBud]

Quit TCR Mode, use power mod
40w
Is it work good?

 

[Jayvape]

Quit TCR Mode, use power mod
40w
Is it work good?

I'll try it out and report back, thank you!

 

[whythefnot]

@whythefnot: welcome!

You know, "temp protect" is not an error message mate, it's the (non-intuitive) way it works in these mods. When it reaches temperature, the power tapers down (when using PI mode in AF) or just cuts off (using the default algo) and the message is displayed.

You can disable it in escribe theme settings I think. But anyway, just pretend it's not here and keep drawing. Should work properly.

The first half of what you said might be technically true for both the DNA and myevic, but in reality it absolutely does not work.

Sure, "temp protect" just means that the device thinks it's at the right temperature. In my case, every time I see that message the device is wrong about what temperature it has reached and it's impossible to get any vapor at all even with 20+sec draws. When it's working properly I get huge clouds within a few seconds. It's finicky.

I've been having some more issues with it tonight. I don't know what happened but the rock solid .39ohms resistance value it has always wanted to use is gone and it keeps wanting to settle in the mid 60s but won't even begin to heat up (just gives the "temp protect" message).

 

[Bumping Spheda]

Super ghetto concentrate pad, haha. It's 28ga Stainless Steel round wire that I just mashed up into a mess. My XL8R got HOT vaping even meager amounts of concentrate, haha, I would not recommend this, just get a Sai, imho.

 

[Hippie]

@whythefnot - it sounds like it's still not making a good connection with the mod

You may need to tighten the 510 centre pin screw on the base of the Splinter
While you've got the Splinter unscrewed I would test check that the mods centre pin is springing up and down properly too, by pushing it with a wooden or plastic stick as they can sometimes get caught up and stick in funny positions.

 

[LAWTHEONE]

I’m on my Wismec RX300 running myevic software. I use log mode (or cruise) in TCR 110, 420°-450°, 35-45W with a water piece 30-40W with a Hulu stem. I let the Vape heat up for 10 seconds. Taste is great never chars anything. I am kind of familiar with TCR because of my HVT Sequoia. Still trying to learn all the other modes. Does anyone know about smart mode? Friday will be a week with my Splinter Z. Trying to tune it in on every mode.

 

[GoldenBud]

I’m on my Wismec RX300 running myevic software. I use log mode (or cruise) in TCR 110, 420°-450°, 35-45W with a water piece 30-40W with a Hulu stem. I let the Vape heat up for 10 seconds. Taste is great never chars anything. I am kind of familiar with TCR because of my HVT Sequoia. Still trying to learn all the other modes. Does anyone know about smart mode? Friday will be a week with my Splinter Z. Trying to tune it in on every mode.

I tried the Z on a DNA250 mod, it produced the biggest cloud I've ever seen from a portable device, on 45W and the end of the session was at 50W without hotspots. (power mod, not TCR)

 

[YaMon]

The first half of what you said might be technically true for both the DNA and myevic, but in reality it absolutely does not work.

Sure, "temp protect" just means that the device thinks it's at the right temperature. In my case, every time I see that message the device is wrong about what temperature it has reached and it's impossible to get any vapor at all even with 20+sec draws. When it's working properly I get huge clouds within a few seconds. It's finicky.

I've been having some more issues with it tonight. I don't know what happened but the rock solid .39ohms resistance value it has always wanted to use is gone and it keeps wanting to settle in the mid 60s but won't even begin to heat up (just gives the "temp protect" message).

Are you batteries fresh? Did you give the atty a 5 -10 second warm up? Have you tried a fresh load of material after the warm up?

The temperature will never be thermometer accurate, it is interpreted from the material file and the change in resistance as the coil heats up.

 

[bossman]

That was my guess too: my Splinters all prefer batteries at better than 80%.

 

[david8613]

can some of splinter experts tell me what is the differences between the splinter v1, splinter v2, splinter z? thanks!

 

[bossman]

can some of splinter experts tell me what is the differences between the splinter v1, splinter v2, splinter z? thanks!

Small, medium, and large. The Z has the biggest mesh heater and the biggest wooden body size.

The V1 and V2 are made by the Chinese manufacturer Ryan works with. The custom Z, being phased out, is made by Ryan in the states. The Z also comes in bubinga ZV1 and blackwood ZV2, both also made by the Chinese manufacturer.

The custom Z has a thicker glass joint inside the wooden body which gives some folks confidence that it's more durable.

Flavor is better with the larger Z heater but the Z also drains your batteries more quickly.

I have V1, V2, and a custom Z as my Splinter lineup. If you're on a budget the V2 performs really well for me.

The V1 got updated to the V1+ which replaced the mica below the coil with ceramic but stores don't seem to differentiate now. The V2 and Chinese Z models all have ceramic I think.

I'm keen to try a ZV1 or ZV2 but mostly just out of curiosity. Folks have been pretty consistently looking down their noses at the Chinese Splinters while only ever gushing about the custom Z. I wouldn't put much stock in that. All my Splinters have dialed in to be solid performers and the wood is better finished on the Chinese ones.

 

[buckhakeesah]

I had a bubinga v1 splinter. Yes the finish seems smoother, and seemed less of that natural wood feel from my experience. I don't know if its the polish or finish on it done in China but it seemed like if I had to compare, like laminate vs. a real wood grain feel. It's looks great, just the feel seemed off. Then again, I'm no wood expert or understand how these things comes to be the final product, just sharing my thoughts.

I do have a Z custom on the way, so I can't wait to finally try it and compare. Been trying to scatch that itch for some time, life can go on now lol

 

[eideal852]

Small, medium, and large. The Z has the biggest mesh heater and the biggest wooden body size.

The V1 and V2 are made by the Chinese manufacturer Ryan works with. The custom Z, being phased out, is made by Ryan in the states. The Z also comes in bubinga ZV1 and blackwood ZV2, both also made by the Chinese manufacturer.

The custom Z has a thicker glass joint inside the wooden body which gives some folks confidence that it's more durable.

Flavor is better with the larger Z heater but the Z also drains your batteries more quickly.

I have V1, V2, and a custom Z as my Splinter lineup. If you're on a budget the V2 performs really well for me.

The V1 got updated to the V1+ which replaced the mica below the coil with ceramic but stores don't seem to differentiate now. The V2 and Chinese Z models all have ceramic I think.

I'm keen to try a ZV1 or ZV2 but mostly just out of curiosity. Folks have been pretty consistently looking down their noses at the Chinese Splinters while only ever gushing about the custom Z. I wouldn't put much stock in that. All my Splinters have dialed in to be solid performers and the wood is better finished on the Chinese ones.

More like medium, medium in different material, and large. (dont you do take out? there is no more small!)

the v1-v2 is a ceramic vs mica change. That said I get better performance from my V1 (though as i've gotten into previously, I seem destined to punk-out when it comes to getting a better mod, so ymmv!)

I also agree that the China thing is nothing to turn your nose up at: I have a DEAR to me Wenge Z that looks great and performs as well, but i SWEAR that my V1Z (chinese -bubinga!?- Z) performs better than the US Z.