Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Well, I had way more even heating and no hot spots whatsoever, just pretty weak clouds compared to wattage mode. I have devices that heat more even than the Splinter, what I want are humongous clouds, and I'm starting to doubt I'd get them with TC mode. The more I read about the TC vs. VW mode, the more it appears to me that weaker clouds are the price you pay for a more even, combustion-risk-free experience, or am I wrong?
Huge clouds and no hot spot issues with the DNA250. I haven't fucked with wattage much. I take every hit like it's my last so I'm only commenting on mods and settings for big rips.
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Heck yeah it will. I've been a broken record about this but for me a cheap DNA250 running the ecigprofile from this page has given me more even heating and little to no risk of hot spots on my two hole Z. My og Splinter works better on the DNA too. Another user mentioned that his DNA C is even better.
You just keep reminding me. Eventually, if another better 2 battery option doesn't reveal itself, I will end up caving. I am convinced that the DNA chip is the better option...
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
You just keep reminding me. Eventually, if another better 2 battery option doesn't reveal itself, I will end up caving. I am convinced that the DNA chip is the better option...
I'm gonna watch for a price drop on a Paranormal dna250c from Ali Express I think. @sickmanfraud said it gets down to $93 sometimes and that'd suit me fine.
 

started@52

Well-Known Member
If you can find a DNA75c mod cheaper, it’s all you need for any 510 herb vape. They are the same chip, one 75w one 250w. The “c” is important, it stands for color screen but is more advanced then regular 75 and 250 chips. It also has Replay mode which is better then TC in my opinion.
 

almost there

Well-Known Member
You just keep reminding me. Eventually, if another better 2 battery option doesn't reveal itself, I will end up caving. I am convinced that the DNA chip is the better option...
its the better option but don’t discount the appeal of cruise mode. I enjoy button-free cruises so much I opt for my cheapo gen 3 over the 3 dna mods most times, it’s not perfect but it’s lazy and the heater is always hot
 
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YaMon

Vaping since 2010
I have a wismec sinuous p80 which I normally use on watt mode @45 watts which leads to an occasional state of combustion, so I tried the TC-SS mode (190-210° C, limited to 50 Watt). I have a battery that can deliver up to 35A, with 10A continuous draw. Good news: no combustion, no stirring required, bad news: clouds not nearly as big. I didn't even see that much of a difference between 190 and 210. Plus it takes me a lot longer for a first really nice hit, while I really love this device for the fat clouds it can produce within a few secoinds. Anything I'm doing wrong? Would it be a good idea to crank it up further? If so, only temps or also the maximum watt (I don't want to fuck up the Splinter). Would a more expensive/sophisticated mod box improve this and how so?

All in all I'm pretty happy using the watt mode, and don't get my knickers in a twist if there's a little smoke involved, but it's a little hard to communicate the exact how-to so anyone who never used it before.
The temperature you are using in TC mode is an approximate! There is no thermal couple or temperature sensor, as such I would suggest you slowly increment the temperature until you get the results you were looking for.
 

Hammahead

Well-Known Member
Huge clouds and no hot spot issues with the DNA250. I haven't fucked with wattage much.

Yeah, well, "huge" can mean a lot, relying on what you compare it to. My Splinter had way better clouds on TC mode than many other vapes I know, but significantly less big and fat than in watt mode. So what I would like to find out is if a custom-made profile on a programmable mod will give me clouds as big as in watt mode. Everyone has his/her own priorities, and on my list "big ass clouds" rank way higher than "guaranteed no hot spots", so what I found out sofar let's me kind of stay with what I got, which is fine.


The temperature you are using in TC mode is an approximate! There is no thermal couple or temperature sensor, as such I would suggest you slowly increment the temperature until you get the results you were looking for.

I know, it goes by the resistance of the coil and that is "adjusted" to regulate e-cog coils I guess as the pure mass of the could will surely play a role. I tried the settings up to 210°C and couldn't really see a difference to 190. So maybe I crank it up a wee bit higher, I just don't want to damage that bugger. Otoh: apparently it can get a lot hotter in wattage mode as it can easily combust the bowl at less than 40 watts. Dammit, I'm not very good at juggling variables ;)
 
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Hammahead,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
@Hammahead you gotta watch how long you hold the trigger in wattage mode is all, while your draw can help compensate as well. Even 50w can be fine if you control it with, yes, the other variables lol

I don't think the SS setting in your mod was designed for a HSA heater so the TC is just troubleshooting for what feels right to you... DNA mods are more universally precise, and TCR settings in other mod softwares can help get closer.
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I

its the better option but don’t discount the appeal of cruise mode. I enjoy button-free cruises so much I opt for my cheapo gen 3 over the 3 dna mods most times, it’s not perfect but it’s lazy and the heater is always hot
I haven't played with cruise mode much as the one time I tried it my splinter got hotter than I liked and I really don't want to hurt it. I have been using tubo mode and adjusting temps most of the time, but it is quite slow to heat up with this method...

But it does work quite well once heated.
 
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cybrguy,
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Hammahead

Well-Known Member
I tried the settings up to 210°C and couldn't really see a difference to 190. So maybe I crank it up a wee bit higher

Well, I did just that and cranked it up to 235°C and it's pretty nice. It takes a bit longer to produce clouds than in watt mode but I can toke however long, it won't combust. Saves the stirring which is really sweet. Using the default mode, I cannot hit the fire button for more than 10 secs, but that's fine, I just release and press again every 5 seconds. Works great so far, it just seems the firmware gets kind of overwhelmed or something at times, so I would have to restart the unit, but that's fine for the time being. A programmable mod box is on my wish list, but not number one.
 

almost there

Well-Known Member
Well, I did just that and cranked it up to 235°C and it's pretty nice. It takes a bit longer to produce clouds than in watt mode but I can toke however long, it won't combust. Saves the stirring which is really sweet. Using the default mode, I cannot hit the fire button for more than 10 secs, but that's fine, I just release and press again every 5 seconds. Works great so far, it just seems the firmware gets kind of overwhelmed or something at times, so I would have to restart the unit, but that's fine for the time being. A programmable mod box is on my wish list, but not number one.
if you download and install myevic to your mod you can extend the cutoff to 25 secs, even better is the ability to cruise button-free for as long as you like
 

papa_ent

Well-Known Member
I have a tubo evic that I love like fat kids love ice cream and thought this would be similar, wide heater with on demand regulated heat. I managed to get my hands on a purpleheart splinter Z and was running it on a voopoo too box mod. Very much not in the class of tubo with uneven extraction/green ribbon around the edge and just generally not as outstanding. Stirring is kind of a drag for me and, more first world problems, I have to reclick every ten seconds. I just got a vtc dual and went to lamart and uploaded tubomyevic to the dual. First, much more enjoyable experience. Having the cruise run keeps the heat nice and even when I become less mindful. But I also feel like it is hotter, or maybe just heats a touch quicker especially without having to reheat with each 10 second reclick? Seemed like quicker, denser clouds, which is nice. Second, anyone have settings for this thing? I didnt see anything for the dual on @HerbieVonVapster super cool page everyone should know about. https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/

Am I just missing it on that page?

Is it odd that it seemed to set the Tubo (that seems to be what the dual calls the resistance) itself automatically based upon the temp I set? As long as it keeps this up I guess I dont care but I dont want to find out my settings caused some issue I didnt foresee.

Edit: I was a fat kid.
 

started@52

Well-Known Member
Received my V1 pre order just now. Two things.

1) These are NOT 19/19 only. They will take both the 19/19 size stems that come with it OR 19/22 stems as my 19/22 stems fit just fine.

2) My V1 is finished much nicer then the Splinter Z I had that was made here in the US. This one looks much nicer!

Unfortunately I’ll have to wait till later or tomorrow to try it out as I also received my Portside Mini today and the Dynavap will be fires up shortly.
 

pudgewack

Well-Known Member
Howdy folks! I am looking for some advice of running the Splinter Z in TC mode. I recently received a DNA75C mod (Hcigar VT75D) and loaded the theme and profile from @HerbieVonVapster w/ the cold resistance locked in. This combo works, but not nearly as well as I was hoping. I get much better results running in wattage mode at 26 W on both the DNA75C and my original Evic VTwo Mini (myevic f/w).

At 380F in TC, the hits are very weak but taste great. It takes about 10 minutes to clear a stem, which is much longer than wattage mode. Turning the temp up to 420F provides slightly bigger hits, but stills takes a while to clear the stem. At both temps, I feel like I am sucking for 10-15 seconds before any vapor is produced. I do hold the button for at least 5 seconds before hitting it, but there is still the 10-15 seconds of hitting before vapor is produced. Same if I use up to a 20 second preheat.

In wattage mode, even at a pretty low 26W, I get really good results. A 5 second preheat is required, but almost instant vapor after that. I have to flutter the button off/on to make sure the temp does get too high. I can easily clear a stem in 5 minutes, but can do it even faster if I try to get huge hits.

I was anticipating TC mode to be similar to my experience in wattage mode, but with a constant temp so I do not have to flutter the fire button on/off.

Any tips or tricks on how to improve my experience with TC mode?
 
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started@52

Well-Known Member
Howdy folks! I am looking for some advice of running the Splinter Z in TC mode. I recently received a DNA75C mod (Hcigar VT75D) and loaded the theme and profile from @HerbieVonVapster w/ the cold resistance locked in. This combo works, but not nearly as well as I was hoping. I get much better results running in wattage mode at 26 W on both the DNA75C and my original Evic VTwo Mini (myevic f/w).

At 380F in TC, the hits are very weak but taste great. It takes about 10 minutes to clear a stem, which is much longer than wattage mode. Turning the temp up to 420F provides slightly bigger hits, but stills takes a while to clear the stem. At both temps, I feel like I am sucking for 10-15 seconds before any vapor is produced. I do hold the button for at least 5 seconds before hitting it, but there is still the 10-15 seconds of hitting before vapor is produced. Same if I use up to a 20 second preheat.

In wattage mode, even at a pretty low 26W, I get really good results. A 5 second preheat is required, but almost instant vapor after that. I have to flutter the button off/on to make sure the temp does get too high. I can easily clear a stem in 5 minutes, but can do it even faster if I try to get huge hits.

I was anticipating TC mode to be similar to my experience in wattage mode, but with a constant temp so I do not have to flutter the fire button on/off.

Any tips or tricks on how to improve my experience with TC mode?
Just save a great hit at your 26 watts in Replay mode since your mod has it.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
1) These are NOT 19/19 only. They will take both the 19/19 size stems that come with it OR 19/22 stems as my 19/22 stems fit just fine.
You appear to be the first and only person to suggest this. I wonder why...
 
cybrguy,

started@52

Well-Known Member
You appear to be the first and only person to suggest this. I wonder why...
I have no idea, maybe because no one that said it’s 19/19 only has the 19/19 stems it comes with. It is the same size as my Mi2.
 
started@52,

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I have not had a Mi2 or a V1 in my hand to compare, I am just going by what I have read in here and elsewhere on FC and on IG, and everything has led me to the conclusion that the V1s (as well as all Splinters made by Ryan after the OGs) have a 19mm female joint and that a 22mm stem won't seat properly. Were it not the case there would have been no need for Ryan to make and stock his own adapters, as 22mm jointed glass is available in the wild as it is a US standard.

The SplinterZs, the thread we are in, are still 19/22mm as far as I know. Mine is.

According to VapeFiends Mi2 sales page the Mi2 is also 22mm deep.
 

analytika

Well-Known Member
I haven't played with cruise mode much as the one time I tried it my splinter got hotter than I liked and I really don't want to hurt it. I have been using tubo mode and adjusting temps most of the time, but it is quite slow to heat up with this method...

But it does work quite well once heated.
Several of us have been, from the beginning, discouraging cruise mode, in favor of replay mode and other modalities. Automated continuous operation of a lithium battery powered heating device is quite dangerous on the spectrum of vaping risks. To the splinter, the mod box, the batteries ... and the user.
 
analytika,

almost there

Well-Known Member
Several of us have been, from the beginning, discouraging cruise mode, in favor of replay mode and other modalities. Automated continuous operation of a lithium battery powered heating device is quite dangerous on the spectrum of vaping risks. To the splinter, the mod box, the batteries ... and the user.
How so? Ryan does it and the Tubo has been in the wild for 2 years employing the cruise. I set my minimum battery cutoff at 3.5 volts and besides the worry of the coils burning out if left unattended on wattage mode I don’t understand these risk you are alluding to.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Ooo, I wanna set battery cutoff like that.

In other news, my V1 arrived and its performance is stellar. Markedly more even than my og Splinter. Bravo RBT.

Oops, I think I got my Splinter threads mixed up with that last comment. It's something everyone should know though cuz damn.
 
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bossman,
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