I have a v1 and a us splinter as well as the z. Similar settings, .265 ohms, 160 TCR.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BssuvvGDFYs/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1j0v2cjmh2yd8
Yes Summer, 45 watts
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
- Status
https://www.instagram.com/p/BssuvvGDFYs/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1j0v2cjmh2yd8
Yes Summer, 45 watts
eideal852
Well-Known Member
Thats what I thought.
opinions one vs the other(s)?
Ialways look first, long and hard, at the top offering(Z, pro, x, whatever the MORE) because my dad left when I was a kid... but I'm now flush with the "budget" model, how do they compare? differ?
Fair question. it's kind of a trade-off because it takes a little longer and a little more power on the Z, but not much. So I guess the regular splinter, and (V1) I would consider punchier. quicker to get vapor and a bit better on battery, but a bit more prone to hotspotting. That being said I never stir on any of the splinters, I find just rotating gives me an even enough cook. but if you're willing to sacrifice a little bit more power, and wait for a little bit longer of a heat up with the Z, you are treated to some of the nicest vapor I have ever had the pleasure of some of inhaling. more even heating more robust vapor I don't know it's hard to explain. I suggest you try them both
eideal852
Well-Known Member
I suggest you try them both
wallet says i wait, but punchier and better battery seems a-ok for now. interested in v1 vs v2...
Thanks for the guidance @antispleen, I have been getting ok results at 40 watts on my Squid mod.
I think I will give it a goose and move a bit closer to 42-43. No temp control, just riding the wave!
I think I will give it a goose and move a bit closer to 42-43. No temp control, just riding the wave!
Summer
Long Island, NY
From IG posts:
V2 --"smoked glass on Blackwood and the Mica heater insulator has been upgraded to ceramic."
"Pleased to announce that vgoodiez will be the exclusive retailer for the rbtcustom line in the US."
Don't know if this means Ryan won't have an RBT sales website anymore or not. Sure sounds like it though.
@antispleen, you didn't say what the last/bottom line & value on your mod screen is.
V2 --"smoked glass on Blackwood and the Mica heater insulator has been upgraded to ceramic."
"Pleased to announce that vgoodiez will be the exclusive retailer for the rbtcustom line in the US."
Don't know if this means Ryan won't have an RBT sales website anymore or not. Sure sounds like it though.
@antispleen, you didn't say what the last/bottom line & value on your mod screen is.
That bottom line is variable. you can set it to display any number of settings, I think I currently have it set on amp output. But you can also set it to PCB temperature, or battery life or a couple of others I think
CL52613
Well-Known Member
I have a couple of the Splinter Z vaporizers, Canary and Purpleheart, both are the 2 hole version. Easily the best vaporizer I have ever used, whether sipping or ripping, these little buggers delivery the goods. It should be noted that the Purpleheart does add a taste to the vapor produced for a little while, which I believe is just the nature of the beast, whereas the Canary Z is completely neutral. I believe the Purpleheart Z will lose the additional taste as it is used, since it is becoming less noticeable with each use. I have yet to explore the different ways to use my Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 250C since controlling Wattage has been working so well, and at 66 years old, delving into the TC mode parameters is more than I desire to invest at this time. I do have some questions though; 1. What resistant do most of you use in wattage mode on a DNA mode? Mine has been .420, is that fairly normal; and how would lowering the resistance effect performance? 2. In most recent posts I am seeing the wattage used to be set at 40-45. I usually start at 36-37 Watts and bump it to 38 Watts to finish the load. Sometimes I stir and sometimes it is not necessary, but I believe that is a result of the strain being used, residual moisture of the load, and packing of the load. I have limited hand dexterity and little sensation in my fingers so sometimes the load might be packed a bit more firmly. Maybe the higher wattage settings would make stirring unnecessary, I guess I will try it out and see what happens. I do have to add a very enthusiastic "thumbs up" to how well the Splinter Z does its job. I honestly cannot image anyone being disappointed with a functioning Splinter or Splinter Z attached to a 2-battery mod regardless of what mode you use to control vapor production, or how you prefer to vape, sip or rip, demand or session.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
@CL52613 I installed the ecigprofile from this page for my Splinter and Splinter Z and now my dna250 works better than ever in TC with me doing nothing but adjusting the temp from 350 to 390°. I recommend this approach to doing TC without any real config apart from uploading the profile to your mod using Escribe on a windows or mac computer.
Hammahead
Well-Known Member
So I bought a SplinterZ from @VapeFiend.com - which was an outstanding experience of brilliant customer service during a warranty case btw - and use it on my very basic box mod I once bought for a 510 thread BHO atomizer. What can I add to all the praise: that thing rips and rocks like there's no tomorrow plus it's just incredibly efficient and even effective (!) on the tiniest of doses. When I sprinkle an estimated .02 grams on the bowl screen in the wpa I still get one or two decent clouds and then it's gone, just insane. I'm not a super great fan of stirring but it's fine, given what I got. I use it in Watt mode at 45 Watts straight but plan on buying a programmable box mod sometime later as I'm sort of aiming for more intoxication-proof handling in the long term 
So I was playing around a little trying to use a seamless screen lower in the wpa as recommended by folks here, mainly to have more distance to the heater (plus a larger bowl) but then got the idea of trying a totally different screen, a pips hang-in screen, which is pretty solid and sturdy and has big holes that wouldn't clog as easily as the original basket screens. There's a 12 mm version which snuggly fit in after using a little force in wiggling it in, and it's rested on a rim inside the mouthpiece right below the cut like it was meant to be there.
I used the mouthpiece to try in case it would break, but then I found I could use the actual mouthpiece as wpa as well, it pretty much sealed the 18 mm intake of my bong, and after I used an o-ring (cut off a 2 mm slice of a 10 mm silicone tube) below the cut, it would seal up super tight and fixed. The screen should fit in the wpa as well.
It works totally great for me, the distance makes the process a lot better controllable and the stirring is so much easier. I use this for slightly larger doses of up to .2 grams, still use the original wpa for microdosing in a basket screen but could actually do without the wpa that way.
So I was playing around a little trying to use a seamless screen lower in the wpa as recommended by folks here, mainly to have more distance to the heater (plus a larger bowl) but then got the idea of trying a totally different screen, a pips hang-in screen, which is pretty solid and sturdy and has big holes that wouldn't clog as easily as the original basket screens. There's a 12 mm version which snuggly fit in after using a little force in wiggling it in, and it's rested on a rim inside the mouthpiece right below the cut like it was meant to be there.
I used the mouthpiece to try in case it would break, but then I found I could use the actual mouthpiece as wpa as well, it pretty much sealed the 18 mm intake of my bong, and after I used an o-ring (cut off a 2 mm slice of a 10 mm silicone tube) below the cut, it would seal up super tight and fixed. The screen should fit in the wpa as well.
It works totally great for me, the distance makes the process a lot better controllable and the stirring is so much easier. I use this for slightly larger doses of up to .2 grams, still use the original wpa for microdosing in a basket screen but could actually do without the wpa that way.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@Hammahead Now that is a great screen mod. I will have to try this soon.
Did i heard right that there is a version of the splinter which uses ceramics instead of MICA ??I thought there was a ceramic insulator for the 510 base ,but it also had mica to support the spiral. Did any notice better taste compared to the mica versions ?
Did i heard right that there is a version of the splinter which uses ceramics instead of MICA ??I thought there was a ceramic insulator for the 510 base ,but it also had mica to support the spiral. Did any notice better taste compared to the mica versions ?
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Damn set a newb up with bubbler and my Z, went to hard and didn't pull it early enough so they coughed right into it. Sprayed herbs (and presumably vapor?) into the joint, shook and blew and poked the bits out as best I could, but there is still plenty of little specks in the crevices... Burned it off at 45w for longer than I probably should too, hope its okay, but kinda annoyed at myself for ruining the pristine of my Z... if taste is still pure it guess itll be okay but ugh still annoying for my ocd, can't not be upset about it lol
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Ugh, what a drag. I haven't tried my og or my Z with water yet. Hope yours makes a full recovery. The Splinter Z is my best portable experience and I'd be irked to say the least if I experienced something like that. We don't even have the option to buy a new one, right? My assumption would be that RBT makes a Chinese Z after the blackwood V2. Let's make a pact to each buy one of those as a backup.
I too have noticed hot-spotting with my Z. What I can tell you is that the grind and packing technique plays a huge role in the end-product abv. The Splinter is simply a heater that can be easily attached to your herb chamber (Stem).
I think a good metaphor would be a J and a lighter: The packed stem is your J and the Splinter with mod is your lighter. You wouldn’t think the lighter has a problem if your J isn’t rolled to the best of its ability. If you look at it from that perspective it could make sense that the hotspotting is caused less by the heater placement than by the technique used to pack your stem. I tend to agree with @Easywider here.
There’s a few variables that will affect whether or not you get some uneven heating. 1) The screen in the herb chamber sits flush against the interior rim of your stem. This creates a conduction effect up around the perimeter where some particles of herb are not heated evenly. 2) When I pack the stem with more of a tamp-down I tend to find hotspotting in the gaps where the material is not packed as tightly. 3) Results are different from finer to coarser grind. Like @Easywider mentioned, the fine herb against the perimeter creates more of a seal, redirecting the higher-heat air to the center of the vapor path, which is where I’ll usually find the hot-spotting in my Z. Below’s a post by @Dan Morrison in the Nomad thread that I believe applies here as well.
Well, @KeroZen, how 'bout firing up ye ol' Zion to recollect your memory.
Yes, drawing slower seems counter-intuitive. It was @NuMbNutZ, not I, who experienced this. I have yet to compare the Z & S as I've only been using the Z -- though, it is now on my to-do list.
I see from @little maggie post that she has the opposite opinion of the heat up time comparison. This might be one of those issues that may be subjective or mod dependent. I'll start to work with both & in a few full moons from now, I'll report back with my opinion.Have to try it with their corresponding mods & both on the same mods.
I’m suspecting that the larger thermal mass in the Z heater takes up a little more power to get to temperature. The smaller heater in the Splinter doesn’t need quite as much muscle to get going. With that, once that Z heater reaches temperature you better speed up your draw because the heater mass is also greater and it’s putting that heat extra heat out. This is why I prefer the Z through some water and I don’t mind the Milaana native.
Maybe you don’t need to reach out to anyone right now...I’m hoping the image below will make you feel a little better:
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cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
Not sure exactly what you are trying to do with these, but whatever it is doesn't seem to be working...[/url][/IMG]
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At least on my screen/browser...
Oops! Thanks for pointing that out...I think I fixed it ✌Not sure exactly what you are trying to do with these, but whatever it is doesn't seem to be working...
At least on my screen/browser...
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Alright ofcourse mine is still working fine, heater resilient as always so nothing wrong there... Just still have those little specks I can't get to, so really more ocd than anything else probably.
One thing I feel like, surmyevic autofire is great for water, but I may have liked the stock firmware better for my dry use... Still getting situated and haven't tried any TC yet on this RXG3D, it works so well in power mode as designed.
One thing I feel like, surmyevic autofire is great for water, but I may have liked the stock firmware better for my dry use... Still getting situated and haven't tried any TC yet on this RXG3D, it works so well in power mode as designed.
Hammahead
Well-Known Member
I have a wismec sinuous p80 which I normally use on watt mode @45 watts which leads to an occasional state of combustion, so I tried the TC-SS mode (190-210° C, limited to 50 Watt). I have a battery that can deliver up to 35A, with 10A continuous draw. Good news: no combustion, no stirring required, bad news: clouds not nearly as big. I didn't even see that much of a difference between 190 and 210. Plus it takes me a lot longer for a first really nice hit, while I really love this device for the fat clouds it can produce within a few secoinds. Anything I'm doing wrong? Would it be a good idea to crank it up further? If so, only temps or also the maximum watt (I don't want to fuck up the Splinter). Would a more expensive/sophisticated mod box improve this and how so?
All in all I'm pretty happy using the watt mode, and don't get my knickers in a twist if there's a little smoke involved, but it's a little hard to communicate the exact how-to so anyone who never used it before.
All in all I'm pretty happy using the watt mode, and don't get my knickers in a twist if there's a little smoke involved, but it's a little hard to communicate the exact how-to so anyone who never used it before.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Heck yeah it will. I've been a broken record about this but for me a cheap DNA250 running the ecigprofile from this page has given me more even heating and little to no risk of hot spots on my two hole Z. My og Splinter works better on the DNA too. Another user mentioned that his DNA C is even better.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Summer
Long Island, NY
@Armitage, you might want to ask in the Splinter not this Z thread? 
FYI crosspost:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-126#post-1346130
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-126#post-1346195
FYI crosspost:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-126#post-1346130
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-126#post-1346195
Hammahead
Well-Known Member
Well, I had way more even heating and no hot spots whatsoever, just pretty weak clouds compared to wattage mode. I have devices that heat more even than the Splinter, what I want are humongous clouds, and I'm starting to doubt I'd get them with TC mode. The more I read about the TC vs. VW mode, the more it appears to me that weaker clouds are the price you pay for a more even, combustion-risk-free experience, or am I wrong?
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
- Status