Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
- Status
NuMbNutZ
Well-Known Member
Ive picked up both the Splinter and the Z, and have been running them on wattage mode. Somehow, I haven’t had as consistent of results with my Z as with the Splinter. It seems like it takes a bit longer to get up and running. Some much so that Ive combusted each time I’ve switched back to the Splinter from the Z following the same preheat time and slower draw. Also, the bigger space between herb chamber on mouthpiece and heater in the Z usually means that some crumbles will fall down onto heater when I remove stem to stir. I imagine that the Z really shines for those that dial in their mods for optimal functioning, I need to tweak it a little more.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
My Z works great and quick (I don't have a regular Splinter) though I have standard glass stems with it so there is no extra gap between bowl and heater... Maybe try lowering the watts when you use the Z if all else is setup the same with both?
Summer
Long Island, NY
@NuMbNutZ, I, too, would very much like to know the why of your comparison questions. No doubt, several of our learned members will weigh in.
As far as the crumbles are concerned, to not crack the heating bowl glass insert, Ryan says to turn the mod complete upside down when inserting the packed stem. So, logically, it would have to be the same method when removing. And this upside down method would alleviate the possibility of crumbles falling in. I've been lax & have been inserting/removing sideways (perpendicularly), but as I use a medium coarse/coarse grind, no worries about crumbles falling into the heater, just a larger rare piece here & there falling onto the heater which is easily brushed away.
As far as the crumbles are concerned, to not crack the heating bowl glass insert, Ryan says to turn the mod complete upside down when inserting the packed stem. So, logically, it would have to be the same method when removing. And this upside down method would alleviate the possibility of crumbles falling in. I've been lax & have been inserting/removing sideways (perpendicularly), but as I use a medium coarse/coarse grind, no worries about crumbles falling into the heater, just a larger rare piece here & there falling onto the heater which is easily brushed away.
Last edited:
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
You're so money and you don't even know it.
What kinda mod are you using? I recommend you get/use a DNA or DNA C mod before too long and load the ecigprofile for both the Splinter and the Z.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/
This is the cheap dna250 wismec I got and I've been super impressed:
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/283223734231
If you have a TC mod that supports Arctic Fox, sur_myevic, or the Tubo software those are great ways to start using TC with the Splinter.
As someone who'd already gotten used to session and unregulated vapes, two things that helped me were using lower temps in TC, anywhere from 350 to 390, and exclusively using the rimmed basket screens with just a modest finger tamp to keep the herb in place. The plain short stem delivers stellar results, particularly with the Z on a DNA mod.
Admittedly I didn't fuck with wattage mode all that much. Because I got a Tubo X first I likely thought some kind of software upgrade on the mod was the norm.
I think my TC settings are 165, 37-40W, and .24ohms for the Splinter and .4 for the Z.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Aside from your @bossman well-founded & thorough suggestion, I want to know why @NuMbNutZ is experiencing the difference in preheat-up time & draw. I'd like to know why @NuMbNutZ is finding a longer preheat-up time with for the Z as opposed to the S? One would think that the Z should heat up faster because it is a bigger heater, but, conversely, wouldn't the Z heater take longer to preheat precisely because it is a bigger heater?
And for the 2nd question, you would think that the Z would need a faster draw to pull the more intense heat (because of the larger heater) faster over the load rather than needing a slower draw as @NuMbNutZ says he's experienced above.![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
@KeroZen, @Hippie, or any knowledgeable sole, we need some geeky help here, please.
And for the 2nd question, you would think that the Z would need a faster draw to pull the more intense heat (because of the larger heater) faster over the load rather than needing a slower draw as @NuMbNutZ says he's experienced above.
@KeroZen, @Hippie, or any knowledgeable sole, we need some geeky help here, please.
Last edited:
little maggie
Well-Known Member
I have both the splinter and Z. The splinter with the evic takes quite a while to heat up and when it does the splinter gets warm as well.
The z with the p80 heats up very fast while the z stays cool. Huge clouds and no hot spots.
I haven't tried switching box mods to see how the splinter does with the p80 because I'm mainly using the z right now.
The z with the p80 heats up very fast while the z stays cool. Huge clouds and no hot spots.
I haven't tried switching box mods to see how the splinter does with the p80 because I'm mainly using the z right now.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Well, @KeroZen, how 'bout firing up ye ol' Zion to recollect your memory. 
Yes, drawing slower seems counter-intuitive. It was @NuMbNutZ, not I, who experienced this. I have yet to compare the Z & S as I've only been using the Z -- though, it is now on my to-do list.
I see from @little maggie post that she has the opposite opinion of the heat up time comparison. This might be one of those issues that may be subjective or mod dependent. I'll start to work with both & in a few full moons from now, I'll report back with my opinion.
Have to try it with their corresponding mods & both on the same mods.
Yes, drawing slower seems counter-intuitive. It was @NuMbNutZ, not I, who experienced this. I have yet to compare the Z & S as I've only been using the Z -- though, it is now on my to-do list.
I see from @little maggie post that she has the opposite opinion of the heat up time comparison. This might be one of those issues that may be subjective or mod dependent. I'll start to work with both & in a few full moons from now, I'll report back with my opinion.
Have to try it with their corresponding mods & both on the same mods.
mucsusn
60 going on 20
@Summer I just broke out my Zion after an extended break. @KeroZen is on the right track, I think. More mass, inertia and surface area to heat. Another observation that I’ve made regarding my two OG’s and single Z (on the list for V1)...I have three mods, and I’m running the Z on a two cell Asmodo at 40 watts, one of OG’s on a Vaporesso Tarot Nano (with built in 2500mah Li-Po) and the other on a Lost Vape THERION DNA 166 (also two cells). The Nano runs at 50, the Lost Vape at 45 watts. Just stumbled on it, but seems to work very consistently for me. All three are super hitters and really stretch my flower. Very happy with my little Splinter family, they’ve become part of my daily routine.
So, I've seen a lot of people comment that their Z produces really even abv. No matter what I do, I get a green ring around the edge of the bowl. I've tried packing less and packing more. I've tried lower heat and drawing long and slow. I've tried rotating the stem during use. It's been on a Wismec RX300 and a Wismec dna250. I've used the stock stem, a cobalt stem from 420edc, a ddave cooling stem, and a water pipe adapter. I'm using the basket screens it came with. I've yet to have a single bowl that didn't leave uvaporized edges.
Don't get me wrong, I love the thing and all my other vapes have sat unused since I got it. If that means some stirring, I can live with it. It's just the only complaint I really have about the device, and sounds like it might not be typical of the vape.
Don't get me wrong, I love the thing and all my other vapes have sat unused since I got it. If that means some stirring, I can live with it. It's just the only complaint I really have about the device, and sounds like it might not be typical of the vape.
little maggie
Well-Known Member
I tried my p80 with the splinter and z to see if the mod was making the differences. The p80 definitely made a difference in that the splinter heated very quickly unlike with the evic. But, the body still got warm. I still prefer the z over other vapes I have right now.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Easywider
Simple is the way
I have the OG S and the Z both running on DNA mods. I find the Z takes almost twice the pre heat ( extra 5-10 seconds ) but like @KeroZen said once it’s going it’s a train that won’t stop. I get a fuller and more even extraction with the Z no need to rotate. @Spelaeus When using a fine grind I also experience a small green ring around the very outer edge. I believe it’s just because there’s no airflow up against the walls of the glass. When I dump my stem and mix it up to inspect I can never find the green specs. Everything just looks nice and even.
Hi, I placed preorder for Splinter V1 (underdog version) in December. I have been trying to contact Ryan to add a couple of accessories (Xl8r and some top hat screens) to my order. I also let message on contact page at website. Does anybody have advice? Thanks in advance
YaMon
Vaping since 2010
I posted previously that I was getting uneven ABV and subsequently I rotate the stem and stir. I suspect the ribbon heating element depending upon how it sits inside creates channels/currents of airflow in some Splinter Zs (At least yours and mine). As the Stainless heating element is twisted jammed in the Z it is likely different with every Z (Some worse and others perfect).
Like you I am happy with the Z, although a little jealous of those lucky enough to get a Z that does not have hot spots in the bowl. I’m not sure if @RastaBuddhaTao visits FC anymore, although he should given this community’s support for the Splinter, Splinter Z, Zion and Milaana. It would be great if Ryan could comment on how the heating element is installed and how the installation process maybe modified to provide more consistent results. Regardless, I am not holding my breath that we will hear from him. Quite the contrary, we will be told we are drawing too hard or too soft, or that we are using the wrong Mod, or wrong software on our Mod. I contend that it’s how the heater is installed that results in these experience differences with the Z. Regardless it continues to be the hammer of my portable vapes. Perhaps by going to the Darkside, those Zs manufactured in China will be more consistent?
@mr899 I would try to reach @stephanies3233 or @buddharastatao on Instagram. He frequently does live streams which I have found is a great time to get questions answered. Sorry I do not have better advice to offer.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Yup, I'm using the Z profile that I believe was made using the same Wismec DNA250 mod that I have.
Yeah, this was my guess as well but I was kind of hoping it might come down to something I could change on my end. Like I said, I love the thing but it does bum me out a little bit to get an imperfect unit given the price paid. My unit also has somewhat sloppily drilled air holes with frayed wood fibers. Again, a minor complaint but a little disappointing at the price point. I feel silly complaining about such minor issues, and I assume this isn't the sort of stuff that might be covered under warranty. Just a bit disappointing for my endgame vape to be less than what it should be.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I think he posted cooling kits will be included in V1 preorders... Just see what arrives and go from there, I know easier to add to order for one shipment, but you may get it all already so worth waiting.
FWIW I also dont even feel like I am ever preheating my Z, though I am ofcourse very used to RBT vapes, I consider all Splinters to be instant personally
Last edited:
eideal852
Well-Known Member
yeah IG @buddharastatao is best bet
Z running on funkyjunky firmware. .429 ohms, TCR set to 150. It does not get much better than this for me friends.
eideal852
Well-Known Member
have you fucked w the v1 at all? or US? trying to see what the Z would get me...
Summer
Long Island, NY
@antispleen, a little tough to read so what is your wattage - 45? And what's the bottom # on the display? Thanks!
- Status