iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge

[Alan]

Happy 2020 everyone!

Have been dealing with the death of my father in addition to the car accident, so I'm ready for a better year. May not be able to spend as much time in the shop until I get things settled with my father's estate.

I was able to spend a little time in the shop to assemble a 10 watt halogen bulb HI recently. I added a ss foil disc to diffuse the light which also works to force all the hot air to the perimeter of the roasting tube. I tried it with the iHeat to improve the evenness of the roast. Here is how it looks.

The 3/8" ss foil disc is held in place with a 3/4" flat disc screen forced into the basket screen. The combination of the small mass of the foil and the friction of the screens, prevents the disc from moving. When the roasting tube is inserted, there is about a 1mm thick ring/halo of hot air entering the roasting bowl. It works well at keeping the roast even. No need for stirring. It is possible to add the ss foil disc to old units too.

I'm finding that a straight wattage mode for the mod box keeps the wood cooler during use. I only press the button when I want heat which makes the battery last much longer and keeps the atomizer cooler.

 

[hoyo77]

Happy 2020 everyone!

Have been dealing with the death of my father in addition to the car accident, so I'm ready for a better year. May not be able to spend as much time in the shop until I get things settled with my father's estate.

I was able to spend a little time in the shop to assemble a 10 watt halogen bulb HI recently. I added a ss foil disc to diffuse the light which also works to force all the hot air to the perimeter of the roasting tube. I tried it with the iHeat to improve the evenness of the roast. Here is how it looks.

The 3/8" ss foil disc is held in place with a 3/4" flat disc screen forced into the basket screen. The combination of the small mass of the foil and the friction of the screens, prevents the disc from moving. When the roasting tube is inserted, there is about a 1mm thick ring/halo of hot air entering the roasting bowl. It works well at keeping the roast even. No need for stirring. It is possible to add the ss foil disc to old units too.

I'm finding that a straight wattage mode for the mod box keeps the wood cooler during use. I only press the button when I want heat which makes the battery last much longer and keeps the atomizer cooler.

My condolences....you are in my prayers!!

 

[Diggy Smalls]

Happy 2020 everyone!

Have been dealing with the death of my father in addition to the car accident, so I'm ready for a better year. May not be able to spend as much time in the shop until I get things settled with my father's estate.

I was able to spend a little time in the shop to assemble a 10 watt halogen bulb HI recently. I added a ss foil disc to diffuse the light which also works to force all the hot air to the perimeter of the roasting tube. I tried it with the iHeat to improve the evenness of the roast. Here is how it looks.

The 3/8" ss foil disc is held in place with a 3/4" flat disc screen forced into the basket screen. The combination of the small mass of the foil and the friction of the screens, prevents the disc from moving. When the roasting tube is inserted, there is about a 1mm thick ring/halo of hot air entering the roasting bowl. It works well at keeping the roast even. No need for stirring. It is possible to add the ss foil disc to old units too.

I'm finding that a straight wattage mode for the mod box keeps the wood cooler during use. I only press the button when I want heat which makes the battery last much longer and keeps the atomizer cooler.

I'm so sorry to hear about your father. I wish you the best in dealing with the tragedy and the logistics of the estate.

I would love to convert my Toasty Top to halogen someday, but I'm trying to wrap my head around this mod for the iheat cartridge. I would love to make it so I don't have to stir!

As always, I'm a fan of your work and ideas.
EDIT: So I figured it out and did my best at eyeballing the size and cut of the aluminum foil and it's sandwiched between the two screens. It really is night and day different. I felt like I had to push the wattage up a little, but there was no char. The body does get a little warmer. It seemed to do better with the foil around the heater, snug up against the wood than without it.

 

[sickmanfraud]

@Alan, so sorry to hear about your loss.

Hopefully you will be back at full strength soon.

 

[little maggie]

Hoping for a better year for you

 

[cacahahacaca]

My condolences!

 

[Haze Mister]

Keep it up Alan!

Seems that I forgot to post an update with my iHeat experience... it was giving me no end of grief because it kept losing connection with my mod. I kept having embarassing moments where I would be praising it to friends then passing it to them and they could not get any vapor because the thing had disconnected...("is it working? ") or other times I would be away from home with no other way to vape and it would stop working just when I needed it... I even had to combust at one point

I mentioned it to Alan and told him that I thought the problem was that the 510 central screw was just a fraction of a mm too short and wasn't making good contact with the mod's 510 pin. He very helpfully sent me a few replacement screws of a different type...
This didn't fix the problem though!

I then thought the issue was with my Steam Engine mod ( these things looked great but had a shit build quality) so I bought a Wismec Sinuous P80 mod (very good) .. and the problem persisted. I then wrote an email to Alan talking about sending the iHeat back to him... a few minutes later I thought about it some more and decided to open up the iHeat and have a look. It' a simple electrical device, as simple as it gets really, and there had to be a way to fix the issue!

Sure enough, the central screw that holds one end of coil mesh in contact with the battery terminal had loosened up to the point were it was barely touching the terminal! A good tightening and now the iHeat works, every time....

Maybe that screw can loosen up over time after repeated heating and cooling so if your iHeat is not firing or if the resistance shown on your mod changes, that screw would probably be the first thing to check. You can just pull off the wooden tube if you attach the iHeat to a mod and pull, to get to the insides.

On another note: I am looking for a new desktop vape for using with a bubbler. The Twax Flowerpot looks like the business but... it is expensive and not safe. There is too much risk of accidental burns for my liking. Also, e-nail coils take a few minutes to heat up and keeping it turned on all day would eat a lot of electricity....

I wonder if someone can make a 510 terminal to fire the iHeat without a battery, using an external power supply?
I found a thread where someone had made a box mod running off a PSU but the shape and size of that box is too awkward and big for putting on a bubbler with iHeat attached... I'm thinking if the mosfet and fuse were housed separately so that you get a cable with a low profile 510 connector and a fire button at the end?

That PSU is probably overkill! Only one fuse is actually needed , rocker switch not needed:

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/help-diy-regulated-vv-desktop-vape-station-subohm.765991/

Basically a more compact version of this orange box , something with more of a round barrel shape and as short as possible, with the cable running off the side? My electronics knowledge is just not there but this seems like a really simple project...

 

[blokenoname]

I wonder if someone can make a 510 terminal to fire the iHeat without a battery, using an external power supply?

Alan already did that:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/insta-heat-aka-iheat.24839/

 

[Haze Mister]

Drool! I want that, Alaaaaaan! That was posted a while ago... did this not take off?

The epicvape 19mm GonG makes a nice glass stem for the iHeat:

And theres a stoner-safe poking tool I made with a toothpick and a piece of bamboo

and will you believe I have had that coconut bowl for around 25 years!!! It's stayed with me through years of travelling, living on the road, and countless house moves! I made it myself from a small coconut I got from a street vendor !

EDIT any chance we can have image hosting on the site?

EDIT #2: I see now how I missed the 12v base completely... there are two threads for the iheat!!! (the other is in the plug-in section).

I had totally not seen that until now...

 

[blokenoname]

EDIT any chance we can have image hosting on the site?

EDIT #2: I see now how I missed the 12v base completely... there are two threads for the iheat!!! (the other is in the plug-in section).

I had totally not seen that until now...

Nope! Site admin has gone AWOL for some years now, w/out anybody knowing, where the bugger went. So we're left with two mods, who do an awesome job here out of sheer passion, but lacking the required admin permissions for administrative site changes.

https://imgbb.com/upload works fine for sharing pics here. Upload your pic, then go to the 'embed codes' section and copy one of the 'BBCode' links given there (not the HTML ones) and simply paste it here. Pic will show up after sending off the post then.

Ja. I think Alan made the second thread for the iHeat cartridge here in the portable section, to make it's portability more visible to the folks there.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

I get why there are two thread, but to me it's similar to the minivap in the sense that they can be bought as portable, desktop, or both. It does seem like the cartridge has taken off more than the version with the base

 

[Shit Snacks]

Drool! I want that, Alaaaaaan! That was posted a while ago... did this not take off?

The epicvape 19mm GonG makes a nice glass stem for the iHeat:

And theres a stoner-safe poking tool I made with a toothpick and a piece of bamboo

and will you believe I have had that coconut bowl for around 25 years!!! It's stayed with me through years of travelling, living on the road, and countless house moves! I made it myself from a small coconut I got from a street vendor !

EDIT any chance we can have image hosting on the site?

EDIT #2: I see now how I missed the 12v base completely... there are two threads for the iheat!!! (the other is in the plug-in section).

I had totally not seen that until now...

Yeah imgur blacklisted us, gotta use imgbb or another image host to post.

Seeing the wall-powered IH again tempts me lol it is so beautiful and such a nice set up. I think it was more popular for people to just buy the atomizer itself and attach it to their own mod, a cheaper option that allowed for the possibility of a temp control setup, but I think many people should and would be interested in the plug-in version like I am...

Alan is always innovating and has so many different products on offer now I have no idea what I'm going to end up getting once my name comes up on the list again!

 

[Alan]

@Diggy Smalls - Glad to hear you had good luck w/ the foil disc sandwiched between screens. I love the consistency of the roast and not needing to stir.

@Haze Mister - Happy to hear your iHeat is working well now. The threads getting dirty can also mess w/ the resistance value. I'm still making the Insta Heat units w/ the 12v bases. They just aren't as popular as the atomizer units alone. Seems more people are interested in portables than desktop units.
Sorry your photo is not showing. I copied it to my site so it can be seen.

That is the only briar burl unit I have made so far. Tough to find blanks in the right size.
Nice that the epicvape stem works for a roasting tube. Using standard glass fittings helps w/ interchangeability between vapes.

Was recently asked to make an 18mm glass roasting tube that would accept S&B dosing capsules. It was to be used in a milaana 2, so it needed to be 19/19mm in size. There are basically two different types of 18mm male glass fittings. The first type has the same diameter all the way through the taper part, so the glass gets thicker at the widest part of the taper. The other type has a diameter that gets wider as you go through the taper part so that the glass is basically the same thickness all the way through. The type w/ the same diameter all the way through works w/ adjustable position basket screens. The other type requires rimmed screens that are not adjustable in position. I have some of the second type of 18mm male fittings that get wider inside as you get deeper into the taper.
I cut the end off from one so that the taper length was only 16mm. That allowed the ID to be large enough to accept a S&B dosing capsule. The end of the capsule sticks out 3mm, so the overall length is 19mm.
The ID of the glass roasting tube accepts one of my 12mm glass tubes w/ three slits to deflect the heat for smoother hits. A silicone sleeve is used to hold the 12mm glass tube in place. The cost is $22 plus shipping. If you don't need the dosing capsules, they are $20.

 

[PPN]

Thank you for your awesome products&ideas Alan!

I tried your foil disc mod on my old blackwood Iheat but only cutted a square in a ss foil sheet. It seems larger than your disc so I'll have to slice it smaller cause I found it impacts performances and airflow too much for my liking.

About S&B dosing caps I use a mouthpiece from my MistVape OG which fits both the caps and the Iheat but no so deep than Alan's rosting tubes so I have to increase power to get satisfying results. Although I didn't got a so nice abv, it comes out with black parts in the center and green on the side, uneven. Will give it a try with the foil disc installed.

Did you continue to put foil on the inner sides of the Iheat for last units? I didn't tried that mod but it seems to add efficiency too...

 

[Haze Mister]

Nice that the epicvape stem works for a roasting tube. Using standard glass fittings helps w/ interchangeability between vapes.

Actually most pieces are too long and not fat enough so they need one round of teflon tape aroud the wider end of the taper to stop them from touching the screen inside the iHeat.... The iHeat is about half a mm too wide for most 18mm glass pieces around here.

I did some tests last night putting the iHeat through the d020 bubbler using an 18mm male to male adapter as the stem, with the mod set to 32W and a 1.2 second pre-heat at 55Watts.... and man, it rips so good. Flavour and rapid delivery- I haven't been that baked in ages! I am done with the e-nano! The iHeat will thoroughly roast a load without burning it in about half the number of tokes, and with about twice as open airflow.... Generally I was able to finish a basket screen-full in two long tokes whereas the enano would have taken at least four, and quite a bit more effort. When I was ill, using the enano was difficult because of the more restricted airflow... and sometimes you just don't want to mess around....

There are basically two different types of 18mm male glass fittings. The first type has the same diameter all the way through the taper part, so the glass gets thicker at the widest part of the taper. The other type has a diameter that gets wider as you go through the taper part so that the glass is basically the same thickness all the way through. The type w/ the same diameter all the way through works w/ adjustable position basket screens. The other type requires rimmed screens that are not adjustable in position.

Yep, I just found out about that.... Those rimmed basket screens are pretty much essential items for the iHeat, because without the rim to hold the screen in place it gets pushed back when you try to clean it with a poking tool or when you try to pack the herb in....

 

[Haze Mister]

Happy to report that the Wismec Sinuous P80's temperature control for SS (stainless steel) seems to be working alright with the iHeat!

What's super cool for dialling it in is that you can rotate the display upside down (using one of the button combos as detailed in the manual) so when the rig is sitting on the bubbler I can actually read the display while I'm toking, and see the coil temperature change.
The P80 has a wattage setting in temperature control mode. It seems that this overrides your temperature setting. I set the temp to 200C, but left the power to the full 80W and it combusted immediately as I inhaled. Then I turned it down to 20W and I could see that the mod could not actually keep up with the cooling effect of my inhalation.. So it's a case of starting with a low wattage and turning it up until the mod can keep the temperature fairly steady around your set value when you're inhaling at your preferred speed... and this seems to also depend on the battery. More powerful/ better batteries will do it with less wattage.... I doubt that the reading is the actual real temperature but it's a reading and can be used to find the sweet spot...

here's some more photos of the briar burl iHeat, walnut stem, with the P80 mod... I shortened the stem myself by hand so it came out a bit uneven which I sometimes like.

I went for briar burl because it is the wood traditionally used for pipe making so you know it can take the heat...Because it's full of knots, it's not likely to split. It is so dense, smooth and non-porous, and Alan's craftsmanship so immaculate, that some people who have seen this in the flesh thought it was some kind of artificial material, like the iHeat was moulded plastic resin of some sort!

Alan: Do you know a TCR value for this coil that I can try on TCR mode?

 

[Alan]

You are welcome @PPN Hope you get the ss foil disc cut to the size you like. Dark spots in the middle will be a thing of the past with the ss foil disc.
I am still installing the ss foil lining inside the iHeat. It is the same foil I am using for the discs. It does improve the efficiency.

Thanks for posting the photos @Haze Mister
Need to make more units from briar burl. Such nice turning wood.
Try using a TCR value around 0.0015.

 

[Frosti]

You are welcome @PPNNeed to make more units from briar burl. Such nice turning wood.

I’m somewhere on your list and really like the look of that briar burl. Just sayin’.

 

[Shit Snacks]

So I stumbled upon a seemingly nice single cell DNA75C mod (with the color screen) at https://myvpro.com/products/dovpo-mono-sq-signature-mod?variant=31680009437262

On sale 30% off with VAPE30 code brings it to just under $100 shipped so I grabbed an all black one instead of the gunmetal with black carbon fiber and purple stabwood Paranormal (which is on sale for $180 but is probably much larger and heavier with more unnecessary features, the whole replay thing on the 250c confuses the hell out of me lol) Would have gone with a purple or grey color, was considering the green or blue, to match my Osage Orange iHeat, but all going with the all black is safer, and classier too I expect...

 

[mucsusn]

So I stumbled upon a seemingly nice single cell DNA75C mod (with the color screen) at https://myvpro.com/products/dovpo-mono-sq-signature-mod?variant=31680009437262

On sale 30% off with VAPE30 code brings it to just under $100 shipped so I grabbed an all black one instead of the gunmetal with black carbon fiber and purple stabwood Paranormal (which is on sale for $180 but is probably much larger and heavier with more unnecessary features, the whole replay thing on the 250c confuses the hell out of me lol) Would have gone with a purple or grey color, was considering the green or blue, to match my Osage Orange iHeat, but all going with the all black is safer, and classier too I expect...

Code not working today...

 

[Shit Snacks]

Code not working today...

Oof yeah I think it was a leap day weekend special unfortunately... Maybe they'll honor it?

 

[Haze Mister]

So I've been doing some intensive testing and putting the iHeat through its paces with my bubbler ... I've combusted a bunch of nice herb in the trial and error process. I can see why Alan and others don't bother with TC mode now... The P80 mod randomly drops out of TC mode as soon as you hit the fire button... this was happening frequently enough to become annoying. When TC mode worked, it worked well, but there also seemed to be occasional inconsistencies in the heat output.
I switched back to standard VW mode and finally settled on 35 W with a 2 second 60W preheat, and always waiting for about 3 -4 seconds (less when already hot) after pressing the fire button before starting to inhale. This gives me consistent hits with a nice open airflow and without risk of combustion or having to slow down my inhalation. Combustion is pretty much guaranteed (sooner or later) if you go above 40W, and between 35W to 40W is a zone of increasing risk. All of this is with using the Samsung pink 18650 battery but the behaviour is more or less the same with an "e-fest" brand battery of the same spec- the Samsungs just last longer.

I also found it important to grind the herb quite well and pack the basket screen with no gaps.

I also experimented with partially closing the air intake holes and using a lower wattage but results were not as good. It seems that Alan has already found the optimal air hole size !
I found that using the iHeat outdoors in windy conditions is when restricting the air intake is useful...

I agree that the central disc on the screen should be a standard part of the iHeat's design... The scorching in the middle is real and should be dealt with. I really want to put one on mine but not looking forward to the job!
This got me thinking that the next step in the design could be to manufacture a one-piece integrated screen and steel foil shield, with a built-in disc in the center of the screen.
Otherwise, a ceramic screen with no holes in the middle could work well to diffuse the heat ?

 

[Diggy Smalls]

I use mine around 42 watts and never combust. But that's just my sweet spot with my usage.

 

[Shit Snacks]

So I am sure I don't have this set up the best way, I have not plugged into the computer for escribe yet for Herbie's profiles like I did with RX DNA250, this is my first color DNA75C and I was hoping it might be even simpler... For now I am just using the SS316 temp profile and it seems to be working fine more or less... Getting a decent range 325-425F, though I think it could be tuned in a little better, so I'll tweak settings.

Having the battery door like this (the other panel on the other side can be removed as well to pop the battery out easily) helps make the mod super small and more ergonomic despite the boxy shape, I also find it easy to change the battery and yeah the whole thing is pretty sleek!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Alright I finally loaded the proper Herbie profiles on the MonoSQ and it does seem to be working better now for my iHeat! Had a nice session starting at 325 and ended at 395, many hits and could have kept going probably, but no desire to with the flavor gone at this point...

It is cool to have so much more that you can tweak in the software, though a lot is over my head I was able to adjust a bit. The color screen is nice, but I do prefer it to have a plain black background instead of the blue gradient it was initially set to. We'll see if I go any deeper with the customization, this should be good for now.

Here is the link for the @HerbieVonVapster (did he leave FC?!) profiles for DNA mods:
https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/