iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge

[PPN]

Great @HerbieVonVapster ! I hope the Movkin will fit your needs, to get your I-Heat to fit the Disguiser you'll have 3 steps:

1- enlarge the stem hole with sand pare rolled in a tube, it's a plastic part and it might be done in a couple of minutes.
2- remove the 3 top screens to be able to screw the IHeat heater and replace them when it's done.
3-y the last step is the most difficult but will be done in a handfull of minutes with the right tool, y ou'll see by yourself the magnetic metal cover will not fit the Iheat body and I wasn't feel comfortable to use it without this shield cause when I power it on I apply some pressure on the atty itself which is not good for the 510 connexion... so you have to get a metal file to get the 2 top magnets emplacements filed enough to fit the Iheat body, you haven't to file it until the magnets themselves, stop just an hair before, check every few file's hit.

I expect you'll like the compact design and the dual batteries offer a great longlife, enough for 4-7 days of daily use (I use some others vapes too!) but I didn't managed to find a good TC setting and prefer to use it in power mode, I think the TC feature is outdated cause very slow to hit the temperature protection and seems rather inaccurate.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

I expect you'll like the compact design and the dual batteries offer a great longlife, enough for 4-7 days of daily use (I use some others vapes too!) but I didn't managed to find a good TC setting and prefer to use it in power mode, I think the TC feature is outdated cause very slow to hit the temperature protection and seems rather inaccurate.

Thank you doesn't sound too hard. Looking at button layout wonder if a it possible switch out the chip toss a YiHi chip in it.

I kinda like this skin might look good with the maple burl?

 

[KingSol]

Hi guys, I'm new around these parts. I don't own an Iheat but my dad was on the HI list for a long time so he is ordering one with his HI. He hasn't been on FC in a long time because according to him, FC affects his VAS. Anytime I asked him what VAS was, he would just say it's a disease. Wasn't until I joined here that I finally found out what VAS is [] too funny. Anyway I just wanted to chime in and help the people less experienced with e-cig mods. I see a lot of people are confused with wattage and TC modes.
First, wattage is found in Power mode. It's pretty simple as you all know, you set the wattage you want, hit the button and the power is applied to the atomizer according to the wattage you set. More wattage equals more power equals hotter vape. Less wattage is less power and a cooler vape.
However, in TC mode...... wattage has nothing to do with the amount of power being supplied the atomizer. In TC mode, the only thing that wattage does is control how fast you get to your set temperature. For instance, I'm a flavor chaser so I set my temps pretty low around 370 F, but I am also very impatient so I want no delay in my trigger. I expect my atomizer to fire as soon as I hit the button therefore I must go and adjust the wattage. Depending on the Mod, if I set the wattage to 40 watts, I should hit my temperature immediately upon firing the button. On the other hand if I set the wattage to say 30 watts, then my Mod will start at a cooler temp and work it's way to my set temp slowly, allowing me to enjoy a spectrum of flavors throughout the temp climb. And if I set the wattage to 20 watts.... Well you get the picture. Your set temp in TC mode is set according to what flavors you are trying to bring out of your e-juice and the set wattage just controls how fast you get there. Some people like to start off slow and cool and work there way up to temp. Me, I'm a New Yawker, I want to get there yesterday so I set wattage to 40 watts and usually stay at 38 watts in TC mode and get instant gratification when I mash the button. No offence to the experienced vapers, just trying to help the ones who never had a mod and only buying mods for Iheat and splinters. Figured that I should at least try to contribute since I've received so much help here. [maybe I should mention this in the splinter thread also]. Thanks for taking the time to read.

By the way, my dad still has VAS. Not coming here didn't help at all so it's not you guys fault LoL.

 

[Copacetic]

Hi guys, I'm new around these parts. I don't own an Iheat but my dad was on the HI list for a long time so he is ordering one with his HI. He hasn't been on FC in a long time because according to him, FC affects his VAS. Anytime I asked him what VAS was, he would just say it's a disease. Wasn't until I joined here that I finally found out what VAS is [] too funny. Anyway I just wanted to chime in and help the people less experienced with e-cig mods. I see a lot of people are confused with wattage and TC modes.
First, wattage is found in Power mode. It's pretty simple as you all know, you set the wattage you want, hit the button and the power is applied to the atomizer according to the wattage you set. More wattage equals more power equals hotter vape. Less wattage is less power and a cooler vape.
However, in TC mode...... wattage has nothing to do with the amount of power being supplied the atomizer. In TC mode, the only thing that wattage does is control how fast you get to your set temperature. For instance, I'm a flavor chaser so I set my temps pretty low around 370 F, but I am also very impatient so I want no delay in my trigger. I expect my atomizer to fire as soon as I hit the button therefore I must go and adjust the wattage. Depending on the Mod, if I set the wattage to 40 watts, I should hit my temperature immediately upon firing the button. On the other hand if I set the wattage to say 30 watts, then my Mod will start at a cooler temp and work it's way to my set temp slowly, allowing me to enjoy a spectrum of flavors throughout the temp climb. And if I set the wattage to 20 watts.... Well you get the picture. Your set temp in TC mode is set according to what flavors you are trying to bring out of your e-juice and the set wattage just controls how fast you get there. Some people like to start off slow and cool and work there way up to temp. Me, I'm a New Yawker, I want to get there yesterday so I set wattage to 40 watts and usually stay at 38 watts in TC mode and get instant gratification when I mash the button. No offence to the experienced vapers, just trying to help the ones who never had a mod and only buying mods for Iheat and splinters. Figured that I should at least try to contribute since I've received so much help here. [maybe I should mention this in the splinter thread also]. Thanks for taking the time to read.

By the way, my dad still has VAS. Not coming here didn't help at all so it's not you guys fault LoL.

Welcome @KingSol
Solid advice re' TC/Watts
Like you I prefer instant vapour, so if I were ever to get an iHeat I'd likely have similar settings to you.

I'm still waiting for a side-by-side TC single battery mod (maybe a 21700 or similar) that is better looking than the Witcher (don't like the look at all) before I commit to an iHeat, but I'd surely love one, Alans work is gorgeous

I have a couple of his wooden stems for my Milaanas, and they're all I use (except for a couple that I've made for myself).

Good to have you here on FC

 

[KingSol]

Welcome @KingSol
Solid advice re' TC/Watts
Like you I prefer instant vapour, so if I were ever to get an iHeat I'd likely have similar settings to you.

I'm still waiting for a side-by-side TC single battery mod (maybe a 21700 or similar) that is better looking than the Witcher (don't like the look at all) before I commit to an iHeat, but I'd surely love one, Alans work is gorgeous

I have a couple of his wooden stems for my Milaanas, and they're all I use (except for a couple that I've made for myself).

Good to have you here on FC

My dad is an @Alan groupie LoL. He has one of Alan's log vapes with a bunch of worm holes in it and he calls it his Hipod I used to think it was so ugly but he cherishes the damn thing. It's the only vape he will not let me "or" my mother use. Whenever I ask the reason we can't use it, he goes on and on with this story of how he aquired it from Alan and how long the wait list is and how much craftsmanship went into it yada yada yada.I have an enano, used once and packed away, not for me but still want to try his "Hipod". Good thing is that he will be ordering a new one soon and said he would let me use the new before he let's me touch his worm hole Hi. Plus I got a splinter so he won't have any problem rotating the Iheat with me

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Hi guys, I'm new around these parts. I don't own an Iheat but my dad was on the HI list for a long time so he is ordering one with his HI. He hasn't been on FC in a long time because according to him, FC affects his VAS. Anytime I asked him what VAS was, he would just say it's a disease. Wasn't until I joined here that I finally found out what VAS is [] too funny. Anyway I just wanted to chime in and help the people less experienced with e-cig mods. I see a lot of people are confused with wattage and TC modes.
First, wattage is found in Power mode. It's pretty simple as you all know, you set the wattage you want, hit the button and the power is applied to the atomizer according to the wattage you set. More wattage equals more power equals hotter vape. Less wattage is less power and a cooler vape.
However, in TC mode...... wattage has nothing to do with the amount of power being supplied the atomizer. In TC mode, the only thing that wattage does is control how fast you get to your set temperature. For instance, I'm a flavor chaser so I set my temps pretty low around 370 F, but I am also very impatient so I want no delay in my trigger. I expect my atomizer to fire as soon as I hit the button therefore I must go and adjust the wattage. Depending on the Mod, if I set the wattage to 40 watts, I should hit my temperature immediately upon firing the button. On the other hand if I set the wattage to say 30 watts, then my Mod will start at a cooler temp and work it's way to my set temp slowly, allowing me to enjoy a spectrum of flavors throughout the temp climb. And if I set the wattage to 20 watts.... Well you get the picture. Your set temp in TC mode is set according to what flavors you are trying to bring out of your e-juice and the set wattage just controls how fast you get there. Some people like to start off slow and cool and work there way up to temp. Me, I'm a New Yawker, I want to get there yesterday so I set wattage to 40 watts and usually stay at 38 watts in TC mode and get instant gratification when I mash the button. No offence to the experienced vapers, just trying to help the ones who never had a mod and only buying mods for Iheat and splinters. Figured that I should at least try to contribute since I've received so much help here. [maybe I should mention this in the splinter thread also]. Thanks for taking the time to read.

By the way, my dad still has VAS. Not coming here didn't help at all so it's not you guys fault LoL.

Thank you a lot good info most issue I see are related to mods TCR values not set correct. Causing temperature reading to be incorrect. Once the mod is set up correct that's how everything should be working.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

There tricky thing is setting up the right resistance, because this is a custom coil. I did not find success with the default settings, and I've only had moderate success testing different tcr values.

I keep going back to lower wattage with a slow draw because it just works best so far for me.

 

[KeroZen]

For the iHeat I just use the standard 316L profile in AF (TCR or the curve), max power is set to 30W and I set the temperature around 160°C/320°F then raise a notch or two.

But you need to know your exact cold resistance in order to determine if the mod read it properly when it started or not.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

For the iHeat I just use the standard 316L profile in AF (TCR or the curve), max power is set to 30W and I set the temperature around 160°C/320°F then raise a notch or two.

But you need to know your exact cold resistance in order to determine if the mod read it properly when it started or not.

Good to know getting new mod tomorrow that runs arctic fox and was looking at there stock settings. Looks like there fairly good as they are. Nice to know works with iheat. What is the resistance of you're cold iheat?

 

[KeroZen]

I measured it using a 4 wire measurement device and it's close to 0.365ohm nominal at average room temperature. But when the Evic is not happy or in a bad mood, it can read as high as 0.4xxx (in which case I need to unscrew and rescrew and/or clean the threads and post, wipe the contacts with some abrasive sponge etc)

But sometimes it just read 0.37xx in which case it's usable but I need to bump my set temperature by about 40°C up. Sometimes it reads 0.35xx and then I need to go below 160°C/320°F... a bit of an annoyance but now that I know it it's more predictable.

If I don't adjust the set temperature according to the error, I either scorch the load too fast (0.35x case) or it's anemic (0.37x or more)

That is with the resistance locked and manually entered in AF configurator.... but for some reason it still uses what it reads at startup. Sometimes just powering on and off can yield a different reading.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

I would be happy with something like the Tesla stealth mod, but it only fits up to 22.5mm cart, and if I recall, the iheat is 25mm so it wouldn't fit. Something like that would be ideal for me, though. TCR doesn't really matter for me

 

[PPN]

it's close to 0.365ohm nominal

I read myself 0.56 with the Movkin and, if I remenber well enough, it was 0.52 with the Evic…. Strange isn't it?

 

[Andreaerdna]

I read myself 0.56 with the Movkin and, if I remenber well enough, it was 0.52 with the Evic…. Strange isn't it?

Mine is around 0,31

I moved IH from witcher to charon mod few times, reading stays the same (unless i change mod while IH is still hot)

 

[KeroZen]

@PPN : try using a metal brush and alcohol to clean the iHeat 510 base threads and center post. Then wipe the thread with cotton. Seems your unit developed some parasitic contact resistance.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Well I'm got back from the post office. Thanks again Alan.
Both the iheat and new mod ready for testing.

Thanks again PPN for the instructions wasn't too difficult to do.

The Movkin Disguiser with the sticker cover turned out fairly good.

Just wanted share a couple pic's

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Sorry about the back to back posts.


It's iheats turn on the DNA250


Sitting one the deck and thought this combo look's really nice together. So decided to share a few pics

 

[Andreaerdna]

@HerbieVonVapster i love the movkin setup, i just do not like taking cells out to charge them..

btw does IH turns (unscrew/over screw) when removing stem (in movkin?). it does on my charon if i do not keep IH with hands while taking stem out, withcher keep it in place by itself

 

[PPN]

The Movkin Disguiser with the sticker cover turned out fairly good.

Happy to know you like it! I prefer mine in black but my I-Heat is Blackwood, your I-Heat looks great with the faux wood sticker!

Did you get good results using the TC mode of the Disguiser?

btw does IH turns (unscrew/over screw) when removing stem (in movkin?)

Not for mine, I use the same configuration since severals weeks and never encoutered this issue...

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Don’t know why they hide the usb on the disguiser.
Figure must been some reason maybe safety.
No problem running tc on it.
Took it apart earlier. The chip slides in and out easy.

I didn’t take all way out would have had to re solider if removed. Since tc is working not going bother to try switch the chip.

Wonder if Witcher chip is glued in or just held in place by case?

 

[Alan]

@hoyo77 - Was great to see you again. Hope you are enjoying the new tubes.

@KingSol - You must be referring to the HIPod made from a banksia pod. Here is a photo. Sorry to hear you aren't allowed to use it. I posted a photo of an Insta Heat unit I recently made from a banksia pod and blood wood. Insta Heat (aka iHeat)
It is a very messy material to turn. Loaded with a felt like material that flies everywhere as you turn it. Finished very nice though.

@HerbieVonVapster - Thanks so much for the photos. Looks really nice. Glad you are enjoying it.

Finally decided to try for myself an idea that I gave to @Bravesst for the Lil' Bud about lining the coil cavity with ss foil. It works quite well. More of the watts are going to heat the air rather than heat the wood body. I will be making all new Insta Heats with a ss foil liner in the coil cavity. It is a great advancement in the design.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

Very cool about the SS foil going into the coil cavity. Would this be something that could be done aftermarket easily?

I've been pushing my screen deeper into the stem, and using a rimmed screen on top, and no hot spots, no need to stir (shake the stem) and I've been using some hemp fiber I got from Alan in the stem. It makes it easier on my throat and also slows down my draw so I don't have to think about it.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

@HerbieVonVapster - Thanks so much for the photos. Looks really nice. Glad you are enjoying it.

Finally decided to try for myself an idea that I gave to @Bravesst for the Lil' Bud about lining the coil cavity with ss foil. It works quite well. More of the watts are going to heat the air rather than heat the wood body. I will be making all new Insta Heats with a ss foil liner in the coil cavity. It is a great advancement in the design.

Yes I like her sitting on the DNA mod. Well the Movkin Disguiser does TC and protects iheat the DNA much smoother and hold a better steady temperature.

Once adjusted you get that thick vapor without feeling extra hotness. If that makes sense. I see the foil more helping with using less wattage.

At 380 on the DNA I'm using 6-7watts to maintain that temperature. 35-40 watts well drawing. Mines set at 55 watts that the highest wattage I need. My hardest pull never passes 55 watts rarely 50.

Another good thing is on the DNA much easier to use the shorter tubes. With it not jumping over highest set temperature you get a much cooler hit. Hard to explain once you experience the difference it makes sense.

 

[KingSol]

@hoyo77 - Was great to see you again. Hope you are enjoying the new tubes.

@KingSol - You must be referring to the HIPod made from a banksia pod. Here is a photo. Sorry to hear you aren't allowed to use it. I posted a photo of an Insta Heat unit I recently made from a banksia pod and blood wood. Insta Heat (aka iHeat)
It is a very messy material to turn. Loaded with a felt like material that flies everywhere as you turn it. Finished very nice though.

@HerbieVonVapster - Thanks so much for the photos. Looks really nice. Glad you are enjoying it.

Finally decided to try for myself an idea that I gave to @Bravesst for the Lil' Bud about lining the coil cavity with ss foil. It works quite well. More of the watts are going to heat the air rather than heat the wood body. I will be making all new Insta Heats with a ss foil liner in the coil cavity. It is a great advancement in the design.

@Alan that is absolutely gorgeous. I just saw the InstaHeat you did as well. I had no idea this was a special wood, never saw it up close like this. I owe you, my dad and All the JedHi's an apology. In fact since I recently aquired a beautiful Maple Burl Hi in a trade, I should do it in the proper thread. Besides, it's time for the HI thread to get a bump now anyway!

 

[Alan]

Very cool about the SS foil going into the coil cavity. Would this be something that could be done aftermarket easily?

It is fairly easy to install the ss foil into an existing iHeat. I just pull the 510 deck / heater out, install the ss foil, and then insert the 510 deck / heater back in. It doesn't add very much time to the build, but it sure does make a difference in performance.

@KingSol - Glad you like the Insta Heat unit. It is some cool material. There was a guy from Australia using them to make a vaporizer called HotPod. Congratulations on the HI acquisition. It does a great job of vapor extraction.

Here is my latest batch of spiral coil heaters mounted to 510 decks. They have now all been burned off and are ready to install in wood bodies. Cutting ss foil inserts for the wood bodies at the moment. Will be assembling some iHeats very shortly.

 

[Andreaerdna]

It is fairly easy to install the ss foil into an existing iHeat. I just pull the 510 deck / heater out, install the ss foil, and then insert the 510 deck / heater back in. It doesn't add very much time to the build, but it sure does make a difference in performance.

This is great news Alan. Is this something we can DIY? I would love to upgrade my unit