boon
Well-Known Member
Yeah!This is great news Alan. Is this something we can DIY? I would love to upgrade my unit
I would love to upgrade my iHeat too
Yeah!This is great news Alan. Is this something we can DIY? I would love to upgrade my unit
@hoyo77 - Was great to see you again. Hope you are enjoying the new tubes.
@KingSol - You must be referring to the HIPod made from a banksia pod. Here is a photo. Sorry to hear you aren't allowed to use it. I posted a photo of an Insta Heat unit I recently made from a banksia pod and blood wood. Insta Heat (aka iHeat)
It is a very messy material to turn. Loaded with a felt like material that flies everywhere as you turn it. Finished very nice though.
@HerbieVonVapster - Thanks so much for the photos. Looks really nice. Glad you are enjoying it.
Finally decided to try for myself an idea that I gave to @Bravesst for the Lil' Bud about lining the coil cavity with ss foil. It works quite well. More of the watts are going to heat the air rather than heat the wood body. I will be making all new Insta Heats with a ss foil liner in the coil cavity. It is a great advancement in the design.
@KeroZenAlright, so who is able to use his/her iHeat in TC mode? I'm on the verge of giving up.
I tested the iHeat on a new DNA75 mod, and the resistance readings are all over the place, like with all my previous mods. So far I was blaming the crap joyetech mods, but it's clear the problem is not the mods but something with the iHeat, probably the 510 base which is all wobbly and seems to have smaller than usual threads.
I ran the atomizer resistance analyzer in escribe and the results are completely wild. Just barely touching (dare I say blowing on it?) the iHeat makes the reading change wildly. It goes up to 0.4xx ohm and more, exactly like what I experienced on my other mods. When the real resistance is 0.365ohm.
I can make it work for a session or two. But as soon as I cycle the power the resistance reading is off. With the evic VTC mini it was the same: every session was like rolling a dice. Sometimes it was 0.38, sometimes 0.35, sometimes 0.42 (which meant game over) and rarely 0.36 in which case it worked fine... as long as I didn't move the body even the slightest during use (and putting lip pressure on the mouthpiece could be enough...)
So as I understand, @Alan is no longer even trying to make TC run. Most other users reported using it in VW mode only. @PPN is having the same issues like me. So far only @HerbieVonVapster reported good success, but he spent a lot of time tweaking settings and is probably very careful when using the vape. What's the status for the other users?
I have no issues with all my other 510 attachments, even custom built ones. I tried cleaning the iHeat base, the threads, the pin. Cleaned the mods too. Opened it up and tightened the heater screws inside... to no avail. I think it's the 510 base that @Alan selected, something's wrong with it.
EDIT: or perhaps it's not the base at all but just, as we initially assumed, that SS mesh is not a suitable material for TC? I had no success with my own previous tests using that material, but my electrode connections were not as solid as the iHeat ones.
EDIT2: but this hypothesis is less likely, as the resistance reading is pretty stable on a cold mesh using my 4 wire measurement tool, as well as other ohm-meters I have. If mesh was the issue it would be only when trying to regulate but here the readings vary when I screw or unscrew the 510 base on a cold heater.
So as I understand, @Alan is no longer even trying to make TC run. Most other users reported using it in VW mode only. @PPN is having the same issues like me. So far only @HerbieVonVapster reported good success, but he spent a lot of time tweaking settings and is probably very careful when using the vape. What's the status for the other users?
@KeroZen
i 've the same issue with my iHeat until i tightened the hex screw on the 510 base.
Since no matter at all. i don't know why? maybe it's because i've the SMOANT CHARON TC dedicated to the iHeat so i don't swap to differents mod or the mod itself (i need to lock the resistance to use tcr...i've owned only one mod i'm a noob)
I've too spend a long time to find my sweet spot with tcr value but today my only concern is that i've to stir my load
Edit : does anybody has tried the SB capsule stem from the tubo with the iHeat. i want to know if the load is evenly roasted?
For those wanting to install SS foil themselves >> https://www.banggood.com/Silver-Stainless-Steel-Fine-Plate-Sheet-Foil-0_1x100x1000mm-p-1005593.html
On my side the joy didn't last long. Took the iHeat out of its sleep this morning, and no way to get the DNA read the correct resistance, it's once again all over the place. The only way I can make it work is by launching escribe, running the atty analyzer and screwning/unscrewing the iHeat until I find the sweet spot again... which is completely impractical.
So right now, TC with the iHeat is a dead-end for me. And I wouldn't go back to Power mode, I have enough manually regulated devices that I like better for that.
Do not use this foil it is Grade 202.. I used some as a heat shield for a halo-log. Smells really metallic/like rusty iron when heated and discolors quickly. I can smell it from the other side of the room . I am really sensitive to smells,it works good as a heatshield,but in this case with the Iheat it would be in the airpath.. so avoid this grade, try 316L or 430 .For those wanting to install SS foil themselves >> https://www.banggood.com/Silver-Stainless-Steel-Fine-Plate-Sheet-Foil-0_1x100x1000mm-p-1005593.html
On my side the joy didn't last long. Took the iHeat out of its sleep this morning, and no way to get the DNA read the correct resistance, it's once again all over the place. The only way I can make it work is by launching escribe, running the atty analyzer and screwning/unscrewing the iHeat until I find the sweet spot again... which is completely impractical.
So right now, TC with the iHeat is a dead-end for me. And I wouldn't go back to Power mode, I have enough manually regulated devices that I like better for that.
It doesnt get hotter than 50 C . Outside of the glass is 70C at hottest point . I swear i can smell iteven when it is not heated,lol. Halo-log concept is an open luminary and most of the heat escapes trough the opening at the top.Glass is great insulator. I tried to heat purge it off the smell but it resulted in a product with decreased corrosion resistance and still smelly as hell.Ah damn, I knew about the grade but I didn't know about the smell. That being said I can smell SS316 too and the iHeat also smells like a hair drier when you heat it up dry and shove your nose near the air intakes...
But maybe it's seeing much higher temperature in your halo-log no?