iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge

[PPN]

My concern with the I-heat is how the airflow is unrestricted, so, before to get the stem's screen caked with resin enough to create restriction it's basically impossible to get clouds without to bump the temp up. I never got any luck trying to restrict my draws. It was a nightmare cause everytime I had to replace the screen I haven't the clouds I want… I even thought to put a tin amount of reclaim on the screen… until I saw this silicon large ring which came with the Quartz Quest from Divine Tribe, you can slip it on the I-heat body until the airflow holes and restrict them partially as your liking, works very well! Now I can replace my screens as often I want!

 

[Andreaerdna]

I got the witcher mod @Alan recommend. it is way better in ergonomics and stealth than my 2 battery charon, also the looking is more appealing, almost palmable,I surely recommend it too

I found my way to use it without stirring by reducing the draw speed and rotating stem between hits (@23w), flavor is the best so far (first hit leaves in my mouth a fruit candy taste I never experienced, so clean)

 

[Diggy Smalls]

Unfortunately, I haven't been using mine much for the last week. It's been giving intermittent errors. I cleaned the threads, cleaned all the metal contact areas. Turn off and back on, sometimes it works again. I haven't taken it off the mod much, but I think the connection is not the greatest to begin with. Sometimes it disconnects and reconnects, and it's on there as solid as it can go without spinning the wood shell. It's giving errors more and more frequently.

I'll email the maker-man to get his feedback.

 

[boon]

Unfortunately, I haven't been using mine much for the last week. It's been giving intermittent errors. I cleaned the threads, cleaned all the metal contact areas. Turn off and back on, sometimes it works again. I haven't taken it off the mod much, but I think the connection is not the greatest to begin with. Sometimes it disconnects and reconnects, and it's on there as solid as it can go without spinning the wood shell. It's giving errors more and more frequently.

I'll email the maker-man to get his feedback.

Did you try to tighten the hex screw on the 510 thread ? The resistance of mine was changing all the time no issue since. Hope this help
I enjoy my i-heat more and more I've play with Tcr a lot my sweet spot is now 0,0015 at 32w
Now I can sip a bowl or kill it with giant cloud but I always need to stir even when I turn the stem. It's seems I need to play again

 

[Diggy Smalls]

Did you try to tighten the hex screw on the 510 thread ? The resistance of mine was changing all the time no issue since. Hope this help

Is that the one on the bottom? That's what I'm assuming you mean. I will look to see if I have one big enough.
Ok, size 2 hex key fit, and it was quite loose. Worked aok right away after that, thank you so much. Aces

 

[Diggy Smalls]

No problems at all since tightening the bottom of the iheat. With @boon suggestion, I'm trying tc mode again. There thing is, at 32w, I don't feel I need temp control...I can draw start to finish without scorching the bowl at 32w, so I'm not sure what temp controlling it would do...

 

[SloJimFizz]

Exactly @Diggy Smalls
It's about finding that sweet spot that delivers consistent results each time.
T.C. can be a bit touchy from stem to stem for some reason.Wattage is a lot more consistent.

 

[slatihe]

Ok so i have lots to share...

Tons of stemms.. but what I'm most excited about, and can't thank @Alan enough for this amazing project.

Maple self assembled iHeat cartridge!
Not sure if i should start a diy thread for it. was just super excited to share!

hopefully new img host works well, please notify if any failure to display errors occur.

 

[KeroZen]

Nice job... but what a bad scorching on that last post!

 

[Andreaerdna]

Nice @slatihe

I would love to buy a spare heater mesh ready to put in spiral shape and screw on 510 deck, as replacement, just in case of failure.. would this be possible @Alan ?

 

[slatihe]

@KeroZen its actually medium brown, and only on the very top. Flash just makes it look charred. Personally like to to take entire load to dark brown.

Was very first rip through glass bubbler at 60 watts, and first use ever. VERY open airflow, was expecting some restriction and found basically none at all. Super open. Was plesently surprised. ^.^
_________

And the new stems and wooden reducer (along with my old favorite with a new glass tube)





18 to 14 m/m 2.5 inch stem. Amboyana burl.

Blood wood 18/14 joint reducer / adapter.

14/14 m/m cherry burl 2.5 inch stem.

18/18m m/m 3 inch black and white ebony stem

18/18m m/m 3 inch buck eye burl stem with glass mouth piece.

and 18/18 m/m 2 inch aboyana burl stem with glass inner reducing tube (my favorite for a long time now, had to get glass replaced)

 

[SloJimFizz]

Yea, that looks like a combusted hot spot right there. May want to dial it down and get a feel for the right wattage native before tossing it on the bubbler.
I have trouble using my I heat on a bubbler without that same thing happening.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

@slatihe those are some awesome looking stems! Wow! That is awesome that you assembled your own iheat cartridge, You did a pretty good job wrapping that coil, it looks like it takes a lot of practice to get it to look perfect! The load from your stem does look a little singed, but not burned. It's like that darkest possible vaping that makes it taste bad to me. I have developed technique and settings that mean I rarely get dark spots, and when I do they are very small, or faint and crescent roll shaped.

Anyway, I pulled out the iheat cartridge tonight (I don't use it everyday, and I prefer the smaller ss bowl of the toasty top for daily use) to help me get to sleep. I got stoned as hell, but now I'm here writing to y'all instead of laying down to go to sleep. Anyway, I had fun playing with tcr settings at 0.00090 and 45 watts, with a temp of 300. I gives decent cloudage in my dry bubbler, no dark spots, and I just start immediately. I don't mind using a bong and having a moment of air as the vapor build, but when I'm using the stem, I like to preheat, go figure. Andy Hoo good nighty night

 

[Alan]

@PPN - Great way to control the air intake with the silicone ring. Nice to have that control. I sometimes block off one or two of the intake holes to adjust how the air flows through the spiral coil.

@Andreaerdna - Glad you are enjoying your Witcher box. I still enjoy mine every day. I have found the best way to eliminate the need for stirring is to use about a dime size pile of flower so that you can still see the top rim of the screen when you lightly pack down the flower. Certainly possible to sell you a replacement coil ready to be formed into the spiral. That would eliminate the need for any tools other than some needle nose pliers to bend the wires.

@Diggy Smalls - Glad to hear you have your cartridge back in operation again. I need to be sure the bottom hex nut is nice and snug. Nice to hear you are having fun with your iHeat.

@slatihe - Thanks for posting the photos. The coil looks good. Nice to know it works as a diy kit where the coil is assembled / formed from parts. It is a good feeling to make your own vaporizer and know you can replace the coil if you like. I could offer kits with different levels of completion. You demonstrated the successful assembly of the lowest level of completion kit. Some people may only want to form and install the spiral coil rather than assemble it too.
Glad you are enjoying the roasting tubes too. So many different options.

 

[sickmanfraud]

Guys,

My number from @Alan has come up. Please make some suggestions for what I can/should order.

Also, something to avoid, if appropriate.

Is everyone who got one happy with the Witcher mod?

 

[Diggy Smalls]

It's still strange for me to lower my draw speed really low, but that is still the best way I've found to use the iheat. The open restriction begs me to use a faster draw, which requires higher heat and more storings, and it's harsh on my throat.
So I sympathize with people who don't like going slow to get vapor.

 

[KingSol]

Hey guys, hope I'm not breaking any rules here but the Witcher box mod that Alan uses can be found on fasttech for $26 bucks USD. Just grabbed two, red and a grey. I have tons of box mods but just in case I lean this way, I like the idea of the recessed 510 connection. They will be used either way.

 

[oddjobold]

Iheat arrived today, brought off the FC classifieds.

Apart from vacaps, a splinter has been my sole electric vape for a while. Although a great improvement over the milaana i missed the wide open air flow. This fills that gap nicely. Pump up the watts take a real slow draw - cloud machine. The grain on the wood is also most awesome. Alan said it was walnut from gunstocks.

Could this be better than splinter? Dont want to say anything in this early honeymoon period.

Should be hard to beat once once i get my witcher mod.

 

[PPN]

Was very first rip through glass bubbler at 60 watts

There is absolutly no need to crank the power as high, I tend myself to use lower power when used through water cause the visual feedback helps me for longer inhalations and thick clouds. Try to add some airflow restriction too, like I mentionned in an earlier post this is helps me to get clouds while using lower wattage.

My range is from as low as 26w for tasty light clouds (with restriction) until a max power of 38W but I usually in the 30-34W range and got clouds under a 10s cycle.

Stopped to use it with my Evic and moodded slightly my Movkin Disguiser to get it to fit "disguised". So I enlarged the top hole to fit the 18mm wood stem and I had to "sand" the metal cage which protect the atty to get it to fit around it (I sanded some mm of metal on both magnets placements to enlarge the atty room).
To screw the Iheat I had to unscrew the 3 top screws cause <iheat was too big, but after to place it I was able to put the 3 screws back in place. Now I have a very compact setup, not very small cause it's a 2 battery mod built like a tank but lot more concealable than a Evic mini+Iheat, very stealth since my unit is blackwood and the mod is black itself.
I'm very happy with this new combo, the 2 batteries offer a good 6-8 bowls pushing cells until 3.65v before recharge but the mod doesn't permit to charge batteries in (no usb slot for charging). The bad thing is I can't use anymore my silicon restrictive band for airflow since there is no room for it.

I use my Iheat a lot actually with some others vapes like the MVT and Elevape mainly, busy time so my desktop vapes are taking dust and still use my conduction portable vapes ... sometimes...

edit: from the pics I seen , I prefer the fit of the Iheat in the Disguiser than in the Witcher, more secure and more stealth!

 

[KeroZen]

Talking about pics, what about some of your disguised setup mate?

 

[sickmanfraud]

edit: from the pics I seen , I prefer the fit of the Iheat in the Disguiser than in the Witcher, more secure and more stealth!

Can you please direct me to a picture of the disguiser? Thanks

 

[PPN]

Still unable to post a pic (is Imgur working again with FC?) but will post one of my setup as soon as possible, I like it!

Here a pic of the Movkin Disguiser 150W TC I found on the net to get an idea:

With the IHeat the stem protude a bit more than in this pic. It's not a mod able to set TCR and , if the TC feature works, it doesn't work as good as for my Evic. Although it offers 4 TC modes: Ni mode, Ti mode, SS mode and CC mode (ceramic I suppose), it's slow to hit the temperature protection but I didn't played a lot with features. You can't charge batteries in or do firmware upgrade since there is no usb port...

I noticed the pair of VTC4s I use in this vape are the best looking battery I use, wrap is like new. With the batteries I used in my Evic most get some bad wrap scratches on the negative side (I always take more care about positive side) cause how you have to insert it (not a big deal although since you can rewrap your batteries). Evic is best for a good TC featrure.... when it works!

 

[Andreaerdna]

I was sold with the movkin mod until I saw no usb charging

I am becoming lazy, besides performances, what i like about IH is that it needs very little care besides cleaning the screen (not very often with rimmed screen from extreme Q).. the search for a disguised 2 batt mod continues

 

[Alan]

@oddjobold - Glad to hear you are enjoying your iHeat. Will be really nice when your Witcher arrives. Enjoy.

@PPN - Very cool that you found another side by side mod into which the iHeat will fit. Nice to have two batteries for longer time between charges. I never charge the batteries in the mod anyhow so the usb is not a big deal to me.

Here is one of my latest body styles for the iHeat. It is a pineapple shape turned from osage orange wood. Was trying it in this wood before turning one from some more expensive wood. It is about 1.5" in diameter, so a bit bigger than the normal size.

I have also been working on a new glass cooling tube. The farther you can get away from the heat source, the less heat will get to you. How to extend the length without making it too long to handle? I found the answer in test tubes with side arm attachments.

An 8" long 13mm glass tube is connected to the test tube with a silicone sleeve. There is another small silicone sleeve at the end of the 13mm tube inside the test tube to prevent it from crashing into the side of the test tube if dropped. It uses a 10mm ss basket screen that can be positioned anywhere in the tube. The 18mm taper of the iHeat will seal to the silicone sleeve and allow the tip of the 13mm glass tube close to the heater screen in the iHeat. The end of the 13mm glass tube can be moved around within the iHeat to expose different parts of the screen to the hottest places for a more even roast. Since the ID of the 13mm glass tube is 10mm, it will also work with the Heat Island and Toasty Top.

It does take two hands for the glass cooling wand since it is not a tapered connection. Wouldn't want to drop it anyhow. I hold the bottom end of the test tube in my left hand so that I can feel the glass start to get hot and then I know it is time to back off the heat. I rely on the feeling of hot vapor on my lips for the wooden tube to know when to back off the heat. It is very easy to get hits that are too large to handle since the cooling is so effective. The vapor must travel about 16" through the glass tube / test tube before it reaches your mouth. It seems like the heat can't make the abrupt change in direction and concentrates at the end of the test tube. It is also possible to attach a silicone hose for even more cooling length.
Another option is to place some hemp fiber in the bottom of the test tube to catch large particles.
Since everything is straight, it is super easy to clean. The silicone sleeves can be replaced when necessary. Everything can be cleaned with alcohol.
It will work with quite a few other vaporizers too. Anything with a female 18mm connection or a 3/8" tube (glass or metal).

 

[Diggy Smalls]

I'm so confused by that stem, I'm not really sure what is happening with it. Is that side arm the mouthpiece? So many stems