Hex-Nail (HN-01) - RIP

Justpassedu

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Hogni said:
...and maybe the coming new MaxVapor controller could be a real alternative for you?
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possibly it looks pretty cool but for now my basic NewVape controller has been working well. I been keeping my eye on it and maybe when it has a large screen I'll grab 1. I had saw them messing with integrating screens on the thread. In all honesty most of my dabs have been coming from the puffco peak for its ease of use for me and always being ready, that helped me decide to sell the hex nail and when I want to dab off a enail I use my Dnail sic halo on the NV controller. I'll be watching the Maxvapor nail though ty.
 
710Coils

710Coils

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@Square4Life The Auber has been one of the main go to units for a fairly large amount of people. Their customer service is great and based in the US. The main thing I would say to keep in mind is are you looking for the new features that the next gen controllers have (Up temp, glob mode, tuning for specific nail/coil pairings) The second thing is the price point. The Auber at 100.00 VS all the others at around 300.00 and up. Personally I would say get another Auber if you are liking it. With 2 Aubers you are still well below the price point of any of the newer controller tech available

Hope this helps =)
 
P

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
Mine powers off after about an hour of running, would this be fixed with an SD card update?
 
paytonpenn,
Baron23

Baron23

Well-Known Member
Square4Life said:
Since my Hexnail is currently a paperweight and I'm getting rid of NV controller...

What makes something like the Hexnail a 'better' controller (if it was working) than something like the Auber RDK300? Reason for asking, I recently got a banger and coil from @710Coils and paired it with a Auber RDK300 since that coil can't fit the NV controller. I've honestly been in love with it. Super easy to turn off/on, temp control seems to be on point, easy to adjust temp, etc.

That being said, I'm replacing my NV parts and want to get an additional controller (was hoping the HExnail would be working by now) so I can run the banger and FP at the same time. Just to clarify as well, I'm selling my NV controller and coil so that both coils can be interchanged if needed on the controllers. Just want it all compatible.

Should I get a more 'advanced' controller than the RDK-300 or just another RDK-300? I'm just trying to understand how much of a difference a more advanced controller really makes. I'm done with having the flashiest, I just want it to function and function well.
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The RDK-300 is a wonderful device. I maybe in the minority, but to me most of the “added” features of “advanced” controllers are just tacked on bells and whistles.

Auber does a great job of providing the relatively simple prime function of a controller in an easy to use box.

I recommend them all of the time.
 
antiburn

antiburn

Active Member
My HN-01 is still going. It gets used everyday and usually needs to be on for long hours for me.
I don't think it's going to be working much longer. It takes longer and longer to start up, and I've had the display freeze up a couple of times this week already.
 
Monsoon

Monsoon

Well-Known Member
My HN-01, aside from the touchscreen input, is working solidly. I control it using the web browser on my PC and phone which I prefer anyway. Of course the problem is if I can only change the AP settings through the browser it's tied to my router unless I go through some hoops. But I'm still planning on getting a MaxVapor if their demo pans out to my liking, it seems to be a much more polished product under the hood with a stable, established business behind it.
 
J

JigMelon

Well-Known Member
Pretty cool seeing @maxvapor710 give out a shoutout to a competitor! Definitely says a lot about not only their integrity, but also Auber's quality.

Back on topic: I got a bit distracted this weekend and never bought parts for making a second unit, but I'm planning on doing so when I get home from work in the morning. I'm going to further dismantle my unit and I'll be sure to update y'all with the SSR and anything else.
 
J

JigMelon

Well-Known Member
The SSR (the small black piece) is an Omron G3MB-202P, with a butchered breakout board on the pins:

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/307/g3mb_0609-1189645.pdf

The power module (larger black piece) is a Mean Well IRM-10-5

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/260/r1937_3-1109586.pdf

The really small black piece that was covered in yellow/green striped tape is the thermocouple module, MAX31856:

https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX31856.pdf

There are no contact sleeves; the sleeves are heat shrink. All wires are soldered to the terminal and covered in glue. Furthermore, due to the mess of wires and glue, there is no way I'll be able to make a schematic without removing connections, requiring a re-solder.

@nickmo @Puddy Do either of you have electronics experience? Disassembling this properly to make a schematic may be out of my reach.
 
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maxvapor710

maxvapor710

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
@JigMelon the Raspberry Pi (and similar boards) have software configurable GPIO, so you don't really need a schematic for those ports you can likely hook them up anywhere you want as long as you know the pin numbers.

The SSR can hook to any of the GPIO outputs and the thermocouple interface is an SPI device, look in the settings for MOSI / MISO configuration options.
 
scalescliffs

scalescliffs

cashed
Hogni said:
Shame on you, @HexNailAva!
But I'm very wondered, that none of you tech aficionados opened that "box of Pandora" for examination of construction before!?
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I’ve had mine open but without understanding the construction, I’ve limited my work to sd card maintenance. The top wood panel on mine has always been cracked so I try not to disassemble/move it too much.

Also, @JigMelon I believe there are two types of relay used in HN01 construction, during the run.
 
Hollabackatcha

Hollabackatcha

Well-Known Member
I have most of the parts to build a touchscreen controller with just the power module for 5V on the way. I have no OS for the hardware but may just code my own.

Edit: I have no code for the controller not no OS obviously.
 
J

JigMelon

Well-Known Member
@scalescliffs Thank you for clarifying; makes sense now :p I wonder if the changes required changes to the daemon itself, or just the environment. Regardless that would only matter for repairs, since the DIY project would have an environment specified for the specific hardware in the eventual tutorial. However, anyone needing to replace their SSR will have the SSR from their unit to inspect and determine which part to buy.

In regard to the DIY/community project, anyone have any thoughts on whether we should use hardware from existing devices or something else? For example, the SSR in my unit is discontinued, but still acquirable from some outlets; should we use a model that is still in production, instead? I still haven't bought parts, since I need to figure out whether or not I'll need to buy soldering gear as well (need to dig through storage), so if everyone thinks it would be better to use newer parts I'll buy those instead of exactly what is in my unit.
 
Hollabackatcha

Hollabackatcha

Well-Known Member
JigMelon said:
@scalescliffs Thank you for clarifying; makes sense now :p I wonder if the changes required changes to the daemon itself, or just the environment. Regardless that would only matter for repairs, since the DIY project would have an environment specified for the specific hardware in the eventual tutorial. However, anyone needing to replace their SSR will have the SSR from their unit to inspect and determine which part to buy.

In regard to the DIY/community project, anyone have any thoughts on whether we should use hardware from existing devices or something else? For example, the SSR in my unit is discontinued, but still acquirable from some outlets; should we use a model that is still in production, instead? I still haven't bought parts, since I need to figure out whether or not I'll need to buy soldering gear as well (need to dig through storage), so if everyone thinks it would be better to use newer parts I'll buy those instead of exactly what is in my unit.
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The SSR only relies on a DC input voltage from the GPIO to switch the output(Load) leg. So compatibility only lies in the input voltage and output(Load) voltage.

I would say any quality PCB dedicated SSR that have a input range that spans from 3V upward and can handle a minimum output of 120V @ 2A or more should suffice.

I use SSR-3808HK units in most of my builds but the 8A rating is way overkill. The D3805HK is a 5A version which would work fine.
 
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J

JigMelon

Well-Known Member
@Hollabackatcha Of course, but changing any hardware, especially the thermocouple sensor, will mess with the presets we've made, even if only a minuscule amount. That's the main reason I think it's worth designating specific parts for the project, so we can tweak and share presets with accuracy.
 
J

JigMelon

Well-Known Member
Alright I bought everything I needed. Please note, this is NOT the least expensive way to obtain compatible items. This list is only for expedited arrival in the US:

$24.99 SBC - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YXXPR2/

$5.95 MicroSDHC - https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-32GB-microSDHC-microSD-SDCS/dp/B079GTYCW4/

$5.60 SSR - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NKVLXY8/

$10.49 Thermocouple Sensor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DVVZHC/

$6.79 Power Entry Module w/ Switch & Fuse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DBVPRWK/

$5.93 5-pin XLR Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VM5H942/

$15.88 ($7.89 w/o shipping) PCB Mount Power Supply https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/709-IRM10-5

Assuming you already have wiring and solder gear, that's $75.63 shipped, without an enclosure and with <7 days shipping.

You can get these exact parts cheaper from other places, and you can also get less (or more) expensive components from other manufacturers which fulfill the same specs. I suggest doing some of your own research if you don't mind waiting and want the best pricing. Ebay has some GREAT prices on these components.

I'll let y'all know how it goes.
 
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