Holy cow these battery sleds clamp down on the cell lol. Is there any technique for putting them back and as to not damage the wrapper?
Also, how much does everyones internals slide around? Mine doesn't normally but it was all over the place when I was applying pressure trying to get my batteries back in. I'm debating whether or not to buy some neoprene foam (think 1/32" thick) and line the top so it's less snappy when I put the lid onto the heater, but should I do under the PCB too?
I don't know if the flite uses its casing as a heatsink... I don't want to prevent cooling if it is required.
)
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
That does help, thanks. I just wanted to make sure that a higher amperage wouldn’t damage the Deluxe, as it looks like my batteries support more than 1A.
Edit:
Here’s a photo of my Deluxe in action as tax
Jeff would have to confirm if this was a good idea or not, but I can tell you what I have always done in instances like these:
Sorry about skipping over the battery question, I didn’t mean to.
If you square up the cell above the contacts so the battery poles are perpindicular to the contacts and push straight down, you may have more success.
Please use the battery strap to remove cells. Center the strap under the cells before lifting, keep a thumb or finger on the white relay, and peel the strap up and towards the front; it should lift straight up, freeing the cells without chewing them up.
The contacts are supposed to be tight, but if they are too tight, try using a flat object to compress them a bit more. Obviously, remove the cells first.
Lastly, I’ve noticed that the Keeppower cells have thicker wrappers than some other brands - Vapcells, for example.
Sorry for the annoyance this is causing you. Given current postal circumstances, I don’t have a good way to address this other than suggesting you try to bend the contacts a little more to lessen the preload, or perhaps try a thinner rewrap if that becomes ncessary.
If I were restocking my cells I would look for a different brand next time, but as we know I don’t know when that may be.
My magnet popped out but I was going to give the instructions above a go, seems pretty straightforward and thanks for putting these together here.Magnet info
As more Flite make their way out into the world, I want to take a moment and share some info on the N52 magnets that hold the lid to the body.
Neodymium magnets are strong little buggers!
They mostly stay in place, but because aluminum expands and contracts with heat they can sometimes come loose.
I have been wrangling these into FD cases for the last several years, and my techniques have gotten a lot better over time. I will be happy to re-glue any of your magnets that come loose, but of course that will require returning the case to me for the fix, and not everyone wants to part with their heater for a few days for this sort of thing.
If you need to reattach a magnet and want to give a try yourself, here are some things I can share to make this task easier:
• Remove the heater form the case first!!!!! Don't bring super glue near your heater, you won't be happy if you make a mistake with it. You can easily clean super glue from aluminum with solvent. The same can't be said for the circuit board.
• Loctite Gel Control super glue is pretty good. It's easy to apply, which is a big deal. The KISS Molecular Adhesive I recommended earlier in this thread is a little more reliable and the "flexible" in its name does seem to handle aluminum expansion OK, but the Loctite is cheaper, easy to apply, and will adhere well.
• Use a Sharpie to mark the side of the magnet that needs to go into the hole, then stick the magnet to a piece of Scotch tape, marked side up. Apply a drop of glue into the hole, then place the magnet-on-tape into the hole, marked side down. The tape is there to hold the magnet in place and also help you separate the parts afterwards. Once installed and taped, you can put the lid on and clamp the whole thing together.
• I allow ~45 minutes for the glue to set up (with the adhesive I use), then I separate the lid and clean off the tape. To remove the excess glue, I soak the case in GoofOff solvent for 30 minutes (60 minutes max, or you will be re-gluing another magnet). Acetone will also work. The excess glue will fall away easily with a paper towel or an old toothbrush.
I hope that helps, but if you have any magnets come loose and need help with them, please contact me.
Thanks again. Besides getting the top/down orientation correct, does the rotation of the top of the magnet matter? Like say the magnet was a penny, and the Lincoln memorial/tails is the bottom of the magnet. And while stuck to the other magnet Lincoln's head is up/normal (facing to the right, like this):
I have the purple eFest 1200mah cells and the black KeepPower cells. The shrink seems a little less prone to stretching on the eFest cells. No problems inserting but on removal, I give eFest the edge. I like the looks of the KeepPower's though. Both perform nearly identically.
. If someone in Europe wants to buy a Flite I can sell mine, I am not using it
