Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

condition

condition

Well-Known Member
Zoltani said:
The thing I loved about this community is the small producers making amazing accessories and devices. It is a real shame that this is happening and will likely kill the small makers. I now have to decide if I want to pick up a flix before the 3/20 deadline.
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Same thing happened in UK after the brexit. Thousands of UK manufacturers of high quality products, or small online shops of high quality goods lost their ability to ship to europe. I had an order destroyed by UPS from uk's vapefiend and another order cancelled. Customs are vapor shops' killers.
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Flavor Vaper said:
Thanks for the update.
Do you plan on making some every week until the 20th?
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I plan on dropping ~30 heaters into the store by the end of this week. It may take me 2+ weeks to complete and ship those. If I can get a few more out the door after those, I will.

FWIW, when I make a batch of heaters, my workflow is more "waterfall" than "agile," if that makes sense.

It starts with soldering the SMD components to the PCB. My reflow soldering oven holds 6 to 10 PCBs, depending on the heater model I'm making. A typical batch is three oven runs, regardless of the model. I'm consistent about this.

The PCBs begin as blanks and get filled with components through a series of iterative steps: first I apply solder paste and SMD components and bake those; then I solder some through-hole components; then some more through hole components; then finally the coil and testing. There aren't any shortcuts, so taking a PCB from "blank" to "stuffed" takes some time.

I have a head start on these next batches and currently have ~20 Flite and ~15 Flix v2 PCBs with soldered components, though I'll use some of these to fulfill that paid orders I am completing today.

So...yeah, I plan to keep pounding on this until I have to stop, but believe-it-or-not, I also have a life beyond Fluxer, and will have some other non-Fluxer obligations to fulfill as well. Should be a fun three weeks! 🙃
 
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dynavapmuser

Member
Just had a chance about an hour or two ago to give mine a spin and I'm extremely happy with the results, first heat cycle I ran too long on accident because I left the dynavap standing on the cap and the click never came through but no combustion so I let it stew in there for a second and ran to click and ripped two times, and then spent the next hour walking around the house aimlessly trying to remember if I was trying to do something and what room I meant to do it in.

So happy with the purchase thanks again!
 
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lemonSkunkie

Member
mr_cfromcali said:
New orders: In the short term, I'm planning on dropping another batch of Flite and Flix v2 before the end of this week, most likely Thursday, though that could become Friday. I expect this to be about 30 heaters in total, as I don't want to over-commit. Payment will need to be either via Zelle (US customers only), check (US customers only), money order (likely US only), or Western Union for international orders. I'll have more info on these plans tomorrow.
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Thanks for the update man :) was wondering will western union payment for international customers be an on the spot-type payment like how paypal is? Or are payment instructions likely to be e-mailed out after the order is placed? Just asking as im a little anxious about missing out depending on the timing of the drop. If it will need an on the spot payment I might try look into western union now and load funds onto it if thats how it works in preparation haha Cheers mr_c!! :)
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
lemonSkunkie said:
Thanks for the update man :) was wondering will western union payment for international customers be an on the spot-type payment like how paypal is? Or are payment instructions likely to be e-mailed out after the order is placed? Just asking as im a little anxious about missing out depending on the timing of the drop. If it will need an on the spot payment I might try look into western union now and load funds onto it if thats how it works in preparation haha Cheers mr_c!! :)
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Very good questions. I don't have all of the details yet regarding Western Union - that's one of my Wednesday tasks - but this is how I expect things to go on Thursday or Friday:
  • I'll drop heaters in my web store, as before. The store can track inventory so I don't oversell, and it can also make sure two people don't buy the same item.
  • Make your selection(s) and checkout as you normally would when you are done.
  • No immediate payment at checkout, it will not be possible. Instead, at checkout you will be given your order number (#Rxxxxxxxxx), a total due, and instructions on how to complete payment. I will complete and ship your order after I receive your payment.
  • We will make arrangements for payment via email:
    • If you are in the US, we can use Zelle, or you can send me a check or money order.
    • If you are outside the US, we can use Wester Union (details to come), or you can coordinate with someone with a US-based bank account to pay via Zelle.
I'll have at least 15 Flix v2 and 15 Flite for sale. I don't want to over-commit, so if I am able to complete these in time I may drop a few more. I will also drop some pre-built, "stray" heaters I built for photos or testing, as they are presently configured, with no substitutions or changes.

That's the plan at the moment. I'll share more info as I get it. :wave:
 
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dynavapmuser

Member
Dumb question, but I noticed the instructions mention that PWM will draw significantly more power - just curious if everyone is using it 100% of the time or only on the first heat cycle or what. Ideally I would like to not have to open the unit to switch back and forth between PWM so I'm probably going to try it a few times on and a few times off to compare, just wanted to get some opinions from the experts.
 
Momor

Momor

Well-Known Member
dynavapmuser said:
Dumb question, but I noticed the instructions mention that PWM will draw significantly more power - just curious if everyone is using it 100% of the time or only on the first heat cycle or what. Ideally I would like to not have to open the unit to switch back and forth between PWM so I'm probably going to try it a few times on and a few times off to compare, just wanted to get some opinions from the experts.
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I'm no expert at all but since I got my flite (2-3 weeks ago), i only used it without PWM.

While I'm here, i tested one discharge cycle and got 45 clicks (=15 bowls with 3 heat cycle in a raw. 1st heating from cold then right after the cool down click)

I also enjoy the fact that with the push button switch I'm able to tailor the heating profile (like having lighter, more flavourful draws for a chill wake and bake)
 
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dynavapmuser

Member
Momor said:
I'm no expert at all but since I got my flite (2-3 weeks ago), i only used it without PWM.

While I'm here, i tested one discharge cycle and got 45 clicks (=15 bowls with 3 heat cycle in a raw. 1st heating from cold then right after the cool down click)

I also enjoy the fact that with the push button switch I'm able to tailor the heating profile (like having lighter, more flavourful draws for a chill wake and bake)
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I did a comparison this morning and with PWM I felt like I should dial it in more but if it conserves energy by me just using my finger I am definitely down for that! I definitely noticed with PWM the rip was more flavorful than on the full setting but when using it on full by the third heat cycle I was already pulling it out of the heater for a second to modulate the heat.
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
dynavapmuser said:
Dumb question, but I noticed the instructions mention that PWM will draw significantly more power - just curious if everyone is using it 100% of the time or only on the first heat cycle or what. Ideally I would like to not have to open the unit to switch back and forth between PWM so I'm probably going to try it a few times on and a few times off to compare, just wanted to get some opinions from the experts.
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I was more dramatic with my warning than I needed to be, @dynavapmuser . I think @TommyDee crunched the numbers from his testing observations and determined the typical loss from PWM (due to inefficiency) was about 10%. That's worth mentioning but hardly catastrophic. I'll tone down my warning if/when I'm able to revise the Flite's Quick Start Guide.

In truth, one can set the PWM to be very inefficient if one sets it to be very light and tries to heat something as heavy as a 2020M, but most users are going to find the settings they like are in the middle, somewhere between the darker-roasting "75% on" and lighter-roasting "25% on" positions.

Momor said:
While I'm here, i tested one discharge cycle and got 45 clicks (=15 bowls with 3 heat cycle in a raw. 1st heating from cold then right after the cool down click)
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Awesome! Thanks for confirming that!

dynavapmuser said:
I did a comparison this morning and with PWM I felt like I should dial it in more but if it conserves energy by me just using my finger I am definitely down for that! I definitely noticed with PWM the rip was more flavorful than on the full setting but when using it on full by the third heat cycle I was already pulling it out of the heater for a second to modulate the heat.
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You may also find that you prefer to use it differently with different tip types.

I can use PWM to slow quick heating ti tips, and also use it to load up heavier, slower to heat SS tips.

Hopefully, as people play around with it, they will share some tips and discoveries. For example, you can also adjust it on the fly - try dialing it back some more after the first click to extend the time "in the zone" between the clicks, you might find even more extraction. ;)
 
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dcon67

Active Member
I use my PWM at about 95% most of the time. I’ve gotten it down so that I count the ticks and typically I’m able to pull it and get the cap click mid draw. On fresh batteries it will click at about 13 ticks on a cold tip so I pull at 12....and reheats are at about 8 ticks. And Its freakin fantastic that by using PWM I can reliably pull it at the correct time visually when I’m in a loud environment.

Oh, for reference this is with Flite #9, 15mm at the coolest setting (I sent it back for a re-solder to make it cooler)...it was WAY to hot initially. Now it’s purrrfect!
 
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dynavapmuser

Member
dcon67 said:
I use my PWM at about 95% most of the time. I’ve gotten it down so that I count the ticks and typically I’m able to pull it and get the cap click mid draw. On fresh batteries it will click at about 13 ticks on a cold tip so I pull at 12....and reheats are at about 8 ticks. And Its freakin fantastic that by using PWM I can reliably pull it at the correct time visually when I’m in a loud environment.

Oh, for reference this is with Flite #9, 15mm at the coolest setting (I sent it back for a re-solder to make it cooler)...it was WAY to hot initially. Now it’s purrrfect!
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Nice! Yeah I'm playing with the settings but definitely notice that pulling it pre-click I've already been counting the ticks of the PWM and pulling early. The last time before emptying it I'll let it click and it properly clears it out. Running it to full heat about 8-9 times total before emptying out the dynavap. Going to try to figure out how to set it about 85% and see how it goes. Mine is set up on the cooler of the two coils as well and that's working perfect so far.
 
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dynavapmuser

Member
One last dumb question I did not see in the instructions - are the batteries meant to be run to zero or pretty low before charging?
 
dynavapmuser,
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
dynavapmuser said:
One last dumb question I did not see in the instructions - are the batteries meant to be run to zero or pretty low before charging?
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You can run them until they stop, as the BMS's low voltage protection kicks in before they over-discharge.
If you need to you can often push one more heating cycle from them after the BMS intervenes, but that's about it.
 
sesh732

sesh732

Imaginable
Glad you started this discussion dynavapmuser. My flite (62) has the hottest settings, 15mm hot position. I use PWM all the time at around 65% on the dial, after playing around with other positions and full power this is what I liked best. First cycle I hold the button, count to 8 pwm clicks, rest for 8, hold the button again count to 8 clicks again, hit it. Second and optional third cycle are only 8 pwm clicks each since the tip is already hot. If the cap clicks I pull it early. Once a day or so I'll want the whole amount in 1 hit, so I look at the vapor in the glass and intermittently hold the button, ignoring the cap click.

I haven't completely nerded out with a spreadsheet and stopwatch or anything like that, but after 3 weeks of use I'm estimating I get 15 fully packed caps per charge. I get 1-3 clicks or hits per cap.

All this is with a chunky Ti tip I think it's 4th generation, had it since the good old days of glass vapcaps. Ymmv with other caps and configurations, I hear there's a big difference!
 
TommyDee

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Jah75 said:
*self doubt encroaching*
all this talk of 15mm and cool settings and perfection has me wondering too much - I wonder if I need to order a 15mm and cold to complement my incoming 16mm and hot heater 8/

my wax carving is getting complicated...
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Why yes, @Jah75, yes you do need a 15mm cool heater.

@dynavapmuser - If you love your batteries, don't run down to the BMS cutoff. Although 2.5V is the bottom line cutoff for li-ion cells, most people consider 3V the proper cutoff for cell health. You can easily see the lights dim on Flite when you are pulling about 3V/cell under load. This is my instinctual notification that the cells need charging. I might have another click or two left if I really need it.
 
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dynavapmuser

Member
mr_cfromcali said:
You can run them until they stop, as the BMS's low voltage protection kicks in before they over-discharge.
If you need to you can often push one more heating cycle from them after the BMS intervenes, but that's about it.
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But *should* they be run down or can you maintain the charge by shorter charge cycles?
TommyDee said:
Why yes, @Jah75, yes you do need a 15mm cool heater.

@dynavapmuser - If you love your batteries, don't run down to the BMS cutoff. Although 2.5V is the bottom line cutoff for li-ion cells, most people consider 3V the proper cutoff for cell health. You can easily see the lights dim on Flite when you are pulling about 3V/cell under load. This is my instinctual notification that the cells need charging. I might have another click or two left if I really need it.
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Perfect thanks, I'm curious - is there a reduced lifetime for the battery if you charge it when it is still like 60% or something? Trying to figure out if it's like a gas tank where you can just recharge it whenever you want or if that 3V you mention is the sweet spot that the batteries should always be taken down to? Thanks again for your help!
 
Sn4Pz

Sn4Pz

Well-Known Member
dynavapmuser said:
But *should* they be run down or can you maintain the charge by shorter charge cycles?
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Theyre batteries, and like every other cell, a gentler life is always going to promote longer life and the inverse is true as well. Do you really want to be tethered to the wall with a portable unit though? Just buy some new batteries when you think performance is slipping... imo. :shrug:
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Tommy can probably speak on this with more authority, but my understanding of the 18xxx battery lineup is that they do not suffer the "memory" problems of earlier rechargeable cell technologies, and as a result you can recharge them at any point without harming them or shortening their life.

(I am expecting to be corrected on this imminently, lol.)
 
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