FlashVAPE

[RUDE BOY]

My Stock stage 2 charger now takes 10-12 hours to charge one battery my nitecore takes 9-11 hours for four. To be honest i don't use mine much because of this, also I have a first gen FV and having to lay it down while using turned me off from picking up the PA.

I also do prefer the 3.7s with the flashvape in stage 1 mode myself @as .

Is there a charger that will cut the charging time down to 5-6 hours even 8 hours would be helpful for the 3.7 volt batteries ???

my battery life is now pretty atrocious also, only getting one chamber (around 15 hits) per battery so pretty sure it's time for some new ones.

Love the performance of the Flashvape, don't enjoy it as much or as often as i would if I could resolve my battery woes.

 

[pakalolo]

I'm not sure why your stock charger is taking so long, but if the batteries are only giving you about 15 hits then you probably need new batteries.

I have an UltraFire WF-188 that I got from FastTech.com: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10000857/1073300-ultrafire-wf-188-all-in-one-batteries-charger

It will charge two batteries at 650 mA which is about 4 hours if your batteries are completely flat. I never run mine that far down, I swap batteries with every bowl (which is typically about 15 hits). It cam handle both 3.2V (Stage 1) and 3.7V (Stage 2) batteries, but the downside is that the sliding connections (to accommodate different battery lengths) aren't ideal.

You don't have to lie the FV down when you're using the PA. I stand mine up all the time, but I do have to be careful setting it down because the cord can cause it to fall over. On the positive side, the FV is not likely to suffer any damage if it does fall over. The only really vulnerable part is the stem.

 

[RUDE BOY]

I'll have to check out that charger or something like it and pick up a new set of batteries here after the holidays/New year. I put my FV through some heavy use for about six months than for some reason pretty much packed it away, used it for only a few days here and there over the past year.

When they came out with the PA I didn't pick one up for my older flashvape as they were saying it wouldn't stand up, to tell you the truth that isn't as important now as my main vaping area is a glass table shared with cats and a dog so ...

 

[pakalolo]

When they came out with the PA I didn't pick one up for my older flashvape as they were saying it wouldn't stand up, to tell you the truth that isn't as important now as my main vaping area is a glass table shared with cats and a dog so ...

Sorry, you're right about the early version not standing up. The threading for the base changed so the PA would have to be retro-fitted, and the consequence was that it would have to lie down while connected. This isn't really a big deal to me, but I can see that it might be to some.

 

[FlashVAPE]

=======================
FV ANNOUNCEMENT
FV WATER PIPE ADAPTER
=======================
​

What an exciting development! The FV WPA turns the Flashvape into an amazing pipe vape... another FV first!

With the FV WPA kit, we've incorporated a standard 18mm conical female connection into the top of the FV (in place of the see through top glass lens), and paired it with a standard 18mm M/M GonG adapter so that this setup will work with virtually ALL GonG water pipes / bongs that accepts a standard 18mm connection, both male and female.

Each Flashvape WPA comes with these standard parts below:

and your choice of 1 of the below 3 standard 18mm Glass Connectors:

“Shorty” – standard 18mm M/M GonG connector suitable for use on water pipes with 18mm female connection that is angled (default choice).

“Dual Purpose” – standard 18mm M/M GonG connector suitable for use on water pipes with 18mm female connection that is slightly angled or vertical, can also be used as a stand-alone top draw tube for use with the FV WPA adapter set.

“Jumbo Straw” – standard 18mm male GonG adapter suitable for use with the FV WPA adapter set as a curved jumbo draw tube for top drawing from your FV. This should be selected only if your water pipe has a 18mm MALE connection, or if you plan on using the FV WPA without a water pipe for drawing from the top.

We have a full "HOW TO" documentation here:

https://flashvape.com/fv-wpa

and the FV WPA is available from the FV store (USD $21.90+ s/h) here:

http://store.flashvape.com/fv-acces...-adapter-set-for-gong-standard-18mm-3-options

The FV WPA is sure to hit the spot with the many GonG water pipe / bong users, and will enable more tokers to fuck combustion, and benefit from the health benefits of vaporizing using the Flashvape

 

[as]

@FlashVAPE I have bean thinking about this for a few days and wanted to no what would happen if the worst was to happen and a battery was to vent as there are no vent holes in the vape I have tryed playing about with the button on the bottom and can't get any air through

Also I there is no venting will I damage my FV buy drilling a hole or 2 into the battery chamber

 

[pakalolo]

@FlashVAPE I have bean thinking about this for a few days and wanted to no what would happen if the worst was to happen and a battery was to vent as there are no vent holes in the vape I have tryed playing about with the button on the bottom and can't get any air through

Also I there is no venting will I damage my FV buy drilling a hole or 2 into the battery chamber

There is a 1 mm vent hole located in the centre of the ceramic heater base. It is difficult to see unless you remove the heater screen, which I advise against. It is sealed against airflow under normal use, but will blow out if there is pressure the battery compartment.

 

[FlashVAPE]

Hi folks, we experienced an outage earlier which has now been resolved. The pictures should now be up again thanks for your patience!

I'd also like to take this opportunity to a post the latest review of the flashvape by the folks at pocketable-tech. A big shout out to Franco for the superbly done, in-depth review... awesome!

@FlashVAPE I have bean thinking about this for a few days and wanted to no what would happen if the worst was to happen and a battery was to vent as there are no vent holes in the vape I have tryed playing about with the button on the bottom and can't get any air through

Also I there is no venting will I damage my FV buy drilling a hole or 2 into the battery chamber

What Pak said is exactly right, there is a tiny 1mm hole on the bottom of the ceramic base underneath the heating element screen, and there is a matching 1mm hole on the battery terminal backplate which forms a fail-safe airpath. In a worst case scenario, any expanding air from battery compartment will go up through this airpath and blow out through the side vent holes.

however, if you want to drill a couple additional small holes onto the handle for additional venting, I can't see any issues with that.

 

[ScottyT Lefty]

Well my original heating element screen finally packed it in. Had a small hole near the middle. Pretty quick replacement. I followed the website instructions without much difficulty. Fired it back up with my new 3.7's. Wow. The black beauty is firing on all cylinders.

 

[pakalolo]

Congratulations to @FlashVAPE on the launch of the new WPA!

@FlashVAPE asked me to test this accessory in September, and I've been eager to relate my experiences for some time. The quick summary is that if you use water filtration then this adaptor is a must-have. It is 18 mm female and comes with the 18 mm male-male adapter of your choice, so it's ready for any 18 mm piece. If you have 14 mm glass, you'll need another adapter.

When I agreed to test the FVWPA I didn't realize what I was getting into. There are quite a few variations on how to use it. It's been nearly two months and I still haven't tried them all. I'll post more about that later, but first I wanted to share a method that I developed to make the FVWPA work best for me.

As we know, the FV bowl is enormous. There are two approaches to load size: large and small. FlashVAPE advises that for good results with the FVWPA, go large. Load half a bowl or more, because this moves the load closer to the heater. They also recommend that you remove the tabbed screen, since the FV is inverted when used with the FVWPA. The screen therefore isn't needed for protection, and would absorb heat and slow vapourization. (The caution here is that you have to remember to put a screen in place when you aren't using the FVWPA. I can't divulge how I know this but trust me, it's true.)

Half a bowl is .5 g at a minimum, and .8 g or more if you use a fine grind. I don't like large loads so I only tried them a couple of times. I wanted to see how the FVWPA performs when used as recommended, and my conclusion is that it does quite well with the PA or Stage 2 (3.7V) batteries, but with the Stage 1 (3.2V) batteries, you'll probably want to use a tabbed sandwich no matter what you load.

"Tabbed sandwich" (TS) is the term I use for holding the load between two tabbed screens. I prefer to use .07 g, so I wanted a way to keep the load small but still close to the heat source. Using two tabbed screens lets me put everything right next to the heater. Using only one tabbed screen to hold the load right against the heater would mean faster heat-up, but a higher chance of combustion. The S1 battery supplies more than enough power to do that, which wouldn't be good for the heater screen. The S2 batteries are so powerful that I had to put the TS on top of the S2 spacer.

The TS works nicely with all the power sources, but there is a small nuisance. Because the load is held in place, you have to remove the top tabbed screen and stir after a couple of hits. This is a small price for the great results. My setup when I'm not testing is a .07 g TS with the PA set to around 7*. This produces a nice steady stream of vapour without much fear of combustion. It isn't thick, but I prefer that. Those seeking clouds will be able to produce them with a little experimenting, especially with the S2 battery or a high setting on the FVPA.

The FVWPA is a great accessory for a great price, and anyone who uses water filtration absolutely needs one.

​

* I originally said 8.

 

[lwien]

Ok, my review of the FlashVape.

First of all, if you are reading this, I think it’s important to know how I use the vaporizers that I use so that my statements here are put into the right context.

My daily drivers have been the LSV along with the MFLB. My typical “very short” vape session is a follows: 2 to 3 hits from my LSV followed up with 1 to 2 maintenance hits from my MFLB.

I wasn’t looking to replace my LSV as that vape really does everything I need from a vape but I testing the FlashVape as a possible replacement for my MFLB since it basically works the same way in that battery power is only applied when you are in the process of hitting it and then immediately cools down. Instant on…………instant off.

First off, this vaporizer is built like a tank. A very finely engineered tank built to very close tolerances. This is one of the best built vaporizers that I have ever come across and I would say that this is true at any price, let alone the the very low price that the FV sells for. No plastic whatsoever. It exudes quality both in looks and in feel.

On the testing. I loaded up what I would typically load up in my LSV, about a quarter of a wand’s worth (approx .05g to compare efficiency to the LSV) and hit it. Combusted. Over the course of a few weeks, with this same load, I altered the amount of time that I engaged the battery, altered my draw rates and altered the grind, but no matter what I did, I had a very difficult time finding the sweet spot. I would either combust, or get very, very wispy hits. No in-between. I have never ever combusted in any other vaporizer that i had, including my very first one, but this all or nothing approach was getting really frustrating.

Then a few days ago, I thought, well, if I’m looking for this to replace my MFLB, why not just load up an MFLB’s trench load into the FV, which is about 3 to 4 times more than I was using before and………………wallah. It worked, and worked great. I used a very fine grind from the MF Finishing Grinder. The increase amount of bud in the bowl widened that window between wispy hits and combustion and I was able to get HUGE hits on demand without any combustion whatsoever. In comparison to the MFLB…….tastier, smoother, not as hot or harsh, just as easy and convenient to use and, like I said, able to produce vapor clouds that the MFLB could only dream about.

No more micro hitting. Just engage battery for 4 seconds before hitting. Hit it at a fairly fast draw rate (as compared to any other vape that I have ever used) constant draw rate (no air restriction with the FV) while battery is still engaged for another 3 to 4 seconds, release battery button and continue to draw. Wowsa…………….Nice vapor……….not quite as tasty as the LSV, but MUCH better than the MFLB in every respect.

I’m keeping my MFLB for when I’m out and about, but for in-home use, the FV is now in constant rotation with my LSV.

All testing using Stage 2 convection spacer.

 

[pakalolo]

@lwien: thanks for the terrific review. What I like most is that it shows how perseverance with the FV pays off. It is a powerful tool that has a learning curve, and I fear that sometimes people give up because they accidentally reach combustion with their first attempts. Once mastered, I think you'll find that there is nothing quite like the FV. The design is simple but amazingly versatile. For example, if you use the 3.7V batteries without the S2 spacer (admittedly tricky) you can go from conduction to pure convection simply by turning the FV upside down. If you use large loads then this works with the 3.2V batteries as well.

Talking about conduction, convection, and inverting the FV reminds me that if you follow the instructions for using the FVWPA—remove all screens, use a large load—the FV is a pure convection device. If, however, you use the tabbed sandwich without the S2 spacer (my normal method) then the FV is a conduction device.

 

[pakalolo]

My setup when I'm not testing is a .07 g TS with the PA set to around 8.

Sorry about this. I've corrected it to say 7. I confused it with the setting I use when I leave the S2 spacer in place. If you use a TS without the S2 spacer and the PA set to 8, you will quickly get thick vapour and if you hold the button down for long it will combust. That's using the Orbiter, which has a restricted flow. Moving more air through the system with the WP-010 would speed things up, but the air to vapour ratio would be higher and the combustion risk as well.

This is what I meant when I said there are a lot of variations with the FVWPA. Testing this sort of thing is Hard Work and the more testing you do, the more likely you are to forget what the last configuration you used was.

Caveat: I offer my experiences with my stuff as guidance towards discovering your own favourites or limits with your stuff. YMMV.

 

[Justpassedu]

Few questions for all the Flash Vapor's here. I have been looking for something that uses 18650's. Size wise , is this a portable i can take around with me and be discreet ? I have a bunch of panisonic 18650's that are unprotected , can i use these batteries ?

 

[as]

Whats the amp limit on them
I use my Sony vtc's in my FV

 

[FlashVAPE]

Few questions for all the Flash Vapor's here. I have been looking for something that uses 18650's. Size wise , is this a portable i can take around with me and be discreet ? I have a bunch of panisonic 18650's that are unprotected , can i use these batteries ?

The only high drain Panasonic 18650 cell we recommend is CGR18650CH, which is rated at 20C discharge rate. What is the model number of the cell you have? Only high drain cells should be used in FV applications.

 

[lwien]

So let me add one more observation about having the FV replace my MFLB.

The reason why I like the MFLB so much for maintenance hits is because it's so convenient and quick to use. But compared to the FlashVape?

Let's assume both vapes are loaded with bud.

MFLB
Open MFLB tin.
Take tape out of tin
Insert glass stem (I need to use it to let the vapor cool down some)
Sometimes have to turn it around and reinsert because one side has a snugger fit than the other.
Take rubber cap off of battery
Insert battery
Push in for 6 to 8 seconds.
Being micro-hiting will keeping battery engaged for another 10 seconds.
Take battery out
Put cap back on batter
Put battery in MFLB tin
Take out glass stem
Put glass stem in tin
Shake bud in MFLB for tomorrows session.
Put MFB in tin
Done

FlashVape
Push button in for 4 seconds
Take fairly fast draw will keeping the button pushed in for another 3 to 4 seconds.
Release button
Shake bud in FV for tomorrows session
Put FV on table
Done

Now some of you may use your vapes differently, but this is how I do it and for me, the FV just takes the convenience factor up a few more notches.

 

[Justpassedu]

The only high drain Panasonic 18650 cell we recommend is CGR18650CH, which is rated at 20C discharge rate. What is the model number of the cell you have? Only high drain cells should be used in FV applications.

The 1's i am using are the Panasonic NCR18650B LI-ION Battery 3.7v 3400mAh and they are the unprotected version.

 

[FlashVAPE]

I think your NCRs are not going to work because these cells are rated for discharge at just 1C, which means that they will only put out around 3.5 Ah of peak power, which is not enough for use in the FV.

 

[Pipes]

The 1's i am using are the Panasonic NCR18650B LI-ION Battery 3.7v 3400mAh and they are the unprotected version.

I had tried and won't even light the lamp.

 

[FlashVAPE]

 

[beefsupreme]

Great to see FV has been working in his mad workshop, making us some interesting toys!

The new FVWPA looks most interesting. How would this compare with using the MFLB's water pipe whip connected to the FV's drawhole? That's what I've been using once in a while at home, since I have that WPW already. My FV runs a bit cool or slowly (I think) with a 20 second initial use warmup and then I need to run it on the PA at about 9 power level to get a good stream of vapor going with the spacer inserted. I rely on seeing through the window to know when things are working right. With the FVWPA, is the load resting on the lid screen?

Also in general how long do you draw for? I saw 3-4 seconds above, which seems short to me. I draw a medium to strong wisp of vapor, and pull for 15-20 seconds with power engaged. It's a easier draw than the MFLB. Never have combustion problems, even with the PA almost at maximum. Definitely a great vape

 

[TNT_error]

@FlashVAPE is it possible to buy a stage 2 FV minus all the conduction parts? I'm planning on using the FV with only convection.

Thanks

 

[Vitolo]

There are no "conduction only" parts.
You ADD S2 to make the conduction unit into a convection Steamroller!

 

[pakalolo]

Great to see FV has been working in his mad workshop, making us some interesting toys!

The new FVWPA looks most interesting. How would this compare with using the MFLB's water pipe whip connected to the FV's drawhole? That's what I've been using once in a while at home, since I have that WPW already. My FV runs a bit cool or slowly (I think) with a 20 second initial use warmup and then I need to run it on the PA at about 9 power level to get a good stream of vapor going with the spacer inserted. I rely on seeing through the window to know when things are working right. With the FVWPA, is the load resting on the lid screen?

Also in general how long do you draw for? I saw 3-4 seconds above, which seems short to me. I draw a medium to strong wisp of vapor, and pull for 15-20 seconds with power engaged. It's a easier draw than the MFLB. Never have combustion problems, even with the PA almost at maximum. Definitely a great vape

I've used the MFLB whip to connect the FV to the Orbiter and my WP-010. While that works nicely, the FVWPA is a different experience. As you speculated, the load is resting on the top screen because the FV is inverted. I prefer the FVWPA to the whip arrangement.

9 on the PA means your FV is a little cool but not unusually so, based on my experience. (Something that might surprise you is that the PA at 10 is not as hot as a fully charged 3.7V battery.) I find that I get medium vapour production with the PA around 9 and a 10 second warm-up, but I think if I drew on that for 15-20 seconds I would be flirting with combustion. (I'm just judging by the taste; I don't want to test to combustion tonight.) If your FV runs cool, with the FVWPA you can use a second tabbed screen to hold the load right next to the heater screen, or if that turns out to be too hot then you can use the S2 spacer to make it a bit cooler. In other words, the FVWPA gives you a lot more flexibility.

Re cooling off: to diagnose your FV, take it into a dark room and remove all screens, then apply power. How long does it take to make the screen glow? It should take about 3-4 seconds to heat up fully using a newly charged S2 (3.7V) battery. If it takes much longer, try tightening the top. Remove the swivel cap, then take something like a screwdriver handle and tap all around the perimeter of the heater bezel a couple of times. Use something to give you a firm grip (I use a rubber glove) and tighten the bezel as much as possible. The last time mine started running cool, this revived it.

Does the screen heat up fairly evenly? There shouldn't be any really bright spots. If you see a bright spot from one of the sides, your screen is probably developing a hole and will eventually have to be replaced. This isn't too difficult but it is something to avoid if possible. The good thing is that unlike most other vapourizers, the FV is fully field repairable so you can do this yourself.

As for draw length, that depends entirely on what I am doing. 4-5 seconds is short, but I don't usually pull for 15-20 seconds either. I guess I normally hit for around 10 seconds. Really what I do is pull until either it starts to get hot and hint at combustion, or I feel like I've had enough. I don't have big leather lungs, so my hits might tend to be shorter than some. I don't try for big clouds, I want a nice steady stream of tasty vapour, which means lower temperatures.

When I use the FVWPA, these timings change of course. One thing I don't like about water filtration is that it doesn't let me taste impending combustion. I've learned to detect it from the change in the vapour appearance, but that's turned out to be not enough warning on far too many occasions. (Let me interject one more time a big thanks to @FlashVAPE for a design that is so easy to clean after a combustion event.) I thought I could get around this by learning the timings for each PA setting, but it turns out to be just as dependent on the load. A partly vaped load cherries up faster, and different strains have different ignition points. Maybe it isn't the strain so much as how it's been cured, but the principle is the same.