FlashVAPE
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
The original FlashVAPE instructions stated that you could insert the battery either way. Being a little bit OCD about some things, I never inserted it negative pole first. It just seemed wrong. The latest instructions still say this but the FlashVAPE branded batteries have a line of arrowheads pointing to the positive end with a line underneath saying "Insert this way". I don't know the reason for this, but I'm sure FlashVAPE will explain it. Meanwhile, I guess I'll experiment. 
This will just complicate things even more for me.
I was getting geared up to post about the temperature differences between my old FV and my new one. I wanted to post revised times for the tips sheet FlashVAPE provides, but I realized that it's more complicated than I originally thought. First, my comments have been mostly about the new FV running hot in convection mode. The difference there is significant and easily noticed. For the first week, however, I used it in conduction mode, where the difference is noticeable but not nearly as pronounced. The tip sheet timings are for conduction mode so they won't change as much as I expected before I recognized the importance of making the distinction between the modes. More on this after I've done the testing.
This will just complicate things even more for me.
I was getting geared up to post about the temperature differences between my old FV and my new one. I wanted to post revised times for the tips sheet FlashVAPE provides, but I realized that it's more complicated than I originally thought. First, my comments have been mostly about the new FV running hot in convection mode. The difference there is significant and easily noticed. For the first week, however, I used it in conduction mode, where the difference is noticeable but not nearly as pronounced. The tip sheet timings are for conduction mode so they won't change as much as I expected before I recognized the importance of making the distinction between the modes. More on this after I've done the testing.
max
Out to lunch
What exactly is it that's "a little small" and will "cause it will not work so good"?
I think the consensus is that it does work quite well. If you can't give a better explanation for your opinion I think it's better if you don't offer one.
Kuroth1
Get your Freak on....
Something is wrong.. Tonight when I used my FV (With 2gen S2) it combusted in like only 3 seconds of pressing the power on... I mean very first hit, burnt up all my herb in 3 seconds.. 
I was using the Bubbler kit too..
I really like the FV but starting to get kind of frustrated with its finicky Behavioral..
And no I am not a beginner. I have been vaping for 3+ Years.
I was using the Bubbler kit too..
I really like the FV but starting to get kind of frustrated with its finicky Behavioral..
And no I am not a beginner. I have been vaping for 3+ Years.
Something is wrong.. Tonight when I used my FV (With 2gen S2) it combusted in like only 3 seconds of pressing the power on... I mean very first hit, burnt up all my herb in 3 seconds..
I was using the Bubbler kit too..
I really like the FV but starting to get kind of frustrated with its finicky Behavioral..
And no I am not a beginner. I have been vaping for 3+ Years.
the mini-bubbler restricts airflow, so you use your regular draw speed through the bubbler vs no bubbler, the airflow is actually slower. that may be one reason.
did you reverse the battery polarity? many members reported reversing the polarity results in hotter bowls.
The original FlashVAPE instructions stated that you could insert the battery either way. Being a little bit OCD about some things, I never inserted it negative pole first. It just seemed wrong. The latest instructions still say this but the FlashVAPE branded batteries have a line of arrowheads pointing to the positive end with a line underneath saying "Insert this way". I don't know the reason for this, but I'm sure FlashVAPE will explain it. Meanwhile, I guess I'll experiment.
we stated the battery could be inserted either way in the instruction manual as you really could insert it in either way. in fact, if you evenly alternate between the which way you insert the battery (ie. half of the time "+" end in first and half of the time "-" end in first) from the very beginning of using your FV, you will likely get an more even burn pattern on your heating element screen over time and may increase the service life of the heating element screen. However, the heating element screen now being easily replaceable in current models, this may no longer be a big deal in most circumstances.
we placed the "<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<" line and "INSERT THIS WAY" on the battery for charging purposes more than anything else, after receiving owners' feedback that the it was easy to put the original "green" cells (w/o label) in backwards in the charger, which will not work.
I agree with FV regarding the mini bubbler...especially with the whip attached; you are getting less air movement if you try and use your regular draw speed. I have combusted this way a couple times
Not only that, the bubbler makes it harder to detect the impending doom. I can usually tell when the load is about to cherry by the heat and taste of the vapour, but the bubbler makes that difficult.
Vapodudule
Well-Known Member
Did the batteries have their design or conception evolve recently like the unit?
On the site i see that the S1 were blue and now they are presented white.
On the site i see that the S1 were blue and now they are presented white.
The original batteries had a blue-green wrap. FlashVAPE has since started shipping a branded wrap on both the 3.2V and 3.7V batteries, which is silver-grey. I wish they'd chosen to differentiate them by colour, but they didn't. If you have both types, you have to be careful not to wind up with a battery in the wrong charger.
hoptimum
Well-Known Member
how can you tell which battery goes in which charger?
You look at the wrapper. The 3.7V battery has STAGE 2 on it in large black letters. It's a bit harder to tell the chargers apart. You have to look at the label on the bottom. The 3.2V charger is designated the FVSC-001, the 3.7V charger is the FVSC-101 and it also says STAGE 2 on the label.
arrr
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if this http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=18 will charge the flashvape batteries (both regular and S2)?
I just got my flashvape and i like it still haven't perfected the technique to get a lot of vapor but it is doing the job. Batteries last about 2.5 sessions until they need a recharge. I am going to get the S2 kit soon.
I just got my flashvape and i like it still haven't perfected the technique to get a lot of vapor but it is doing the job. Batteries last about 2.5 sessions until they need a recharge. I am going to get the S2 kit soon.
That charger will not charge S1 3 volt cells. OK for S2 and what makes it more expensive is that it charges AA cells as well, which is not needed for the FV. I think if you do switch to the S2 mode, you may not be using the S1 mode much.
IMHO, a good fast S2 (4.2V) charger might be the ticket. I found most batteries are rated to be charged at around 800 mA but can handle much more at the expense of some life cycles. I find a good trade off for charge speed is a 1000 mA charger.
IMHO, a good fast S2 (4.2V) charger might be the ticket. I found most batteries are rated to be charged at around 800 mA but can handle much more at the expense of some life cycles. I find a good trade off for charge speed is a 1000 mA charger.
RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
Pipes, why isn't the nitecore i4 good for the 3.2V Batteries ? Its the charger i have . I use it for My MFLB , Palm 2.0 and the 3.7V S2 FlashVape batteries . I haven't charged the 3.2Vs since I recieved the S2 , But if I were to want to use them I would of stuck them in the nitecore . What would happen if I did ?
Thanx .
Thanx .
The Lifpo cells are not on the supported list. The i4 has has two charging voltages, 1.48 for AA (MFLB) and 4.2 for the 18650 3.7 v (FV S2) cell. The 3 volt cell is a rare one.
As to what would happen is the LifPo cells would be over charged and minimal damage would be performance longevity and short life span. They would likely get very hot while at the being overcharged in the charger I would expect. IMO, borderline dangerous too.
Or if charger is really smart maybe just refuse to charge?? Doubt it though.
As to what would happen is the LifPo cells would be over charged and minimal damage would be performance longevity and short life span. They would likely get very hot while at the being overcharged in the charger I would expect. IMO, borderline dangerous too.
Or if charger is really smart maybe just refuse to charge?? Doubt it though.
I've been negligent by not reporting my findings about whether the tip sheet timings needed to be updated to reflect the fact that new FVs run hotter. The good news is that they do not. With the 3.2V Stage 1 battery, my new GM (gun metal) FV performs much like my old SB (silver bullet) FV, perhaps slightly hotter. I've found that the combustion risk is increased only if you use the longest counts. This really shouldn't matter much because you will probably detect imminent combustion from the taste and temperature of the vapour.
The 3.7V battery is a different story. With it, the GM runs much hotter than the SB and I had to reduce my counts by at least half. By the time the taste and temperature tip you off, combustion is a split-second away. This made me think that conduction must be playing a large role here. Then it occurred to me how to test this: use the FV inverted!
This works because the FV has a top screen and a bowl so big that when you turn it upside down, the load no longer contacts the tabbed screen. The only way it can heat is by you pulling air through it, so we know it's pure convection. Sure enough, when you invert the FV the combustion risk is negligible. Well, unless some of it sticks to the tabbed screen, oops. You also need to cup your hand so that you don't block the air inlets.
This is my new GM FV, by the way. The colour difference between the battery cap and the rest of the body is exaggerated by the lighting. Under some lighting the differences aren't noticeable, but under other conditions the battery chamber looks a lot darker or lighter. It's quite fascinating to me. Right now, sitting on my desk in this light, you can barely see any difference. I've since realized that the SB battery chamber also is slightly different from the rest of the FV but the difference is much more subtle. I only saw it when I looked for it.
The 3.7V battery is a different story. With it, the GM runs much hotter than the SB and I had to reduce my counts by at least half. By the time the taste and temperature tip you off, combustion is a split-second away. This made me think that conduction must be playing a large role here. Then it occurred to me how to test this: use the FV inverted!
This is my new GM FV, by the way. The colour difference between the battery cap and the rest of the body is exaggerated by the lighting. Under some lighting the differences aren't noticeable, but under other conditions the battery chamber looks a lot darker or lighter. It's quite fascinating to me. Right now, sitting on my desk in this light, you can barely see any difference. I've since realized that the SB battery chamber also is slightly different from the rest of the FV but the difference is much more subtle. I only saw it when I looked for it.
I've been negligent by not reporting my findings about whether the tip sheet timings needed to be updated to reflect the fact that new FVs run hotter. The good news is that they do not. With the 3.2V Stage 1 battery, my new GM (gun metal) FV performs much like my old SB (silver bullet) FV, perhaps slightly hotter. I've found that the combustion risk is increased only if you use the longest counts. This really shouldn't matter much because you will probably detect imminent combustion from the taste and temperature of the vapour.
The 3.7V battery is a different story. With it, the GM runs much hotter than the SB and I had to reduce my counts by at least half. By the time the taste and temperature tip you off, combustion is a split-second away. This made me think that conduction must be playing a large role here. Then it occurred to me how to test this: use the FV inverted!
This works because the FV has a top screen and a bowl so big that when you turn it upside down, the load no longer contacts the tabbed screen. The only way it can heat is by you pulling air through it, so we know it's pure convection. Sure enough, when you invert the FV the combustion risk is negligible. Well, unless some of it sticks to the tabbed screen, oops. You also need to cup your hand so that you don't block the air inlets.
This is my new GM FV, by the way. The colour difference between the battery cap and the rest of the body is exaggerated by the lighting. Under some lighting the differences aren't noticeable, but under other conditions the battery chamber looks a lot darker or lighter. It's quite fascinating to me. Right now, sitting on my desk in this light, you can barely see any difference. I've since realized that the SB battery chamber also is slightly different from the rest of the FV but the difference is much more subtle. I only saw it when I looked for it.
The slight difference in anodized color under different lighting (much less visible in the black model vs the GM or silver model) is because different parts of the FV's alloy body are made from raw materials which were formed differently. Some parts were machined from aluminium alloy tubes where as other parts were machined from solid aluminium alloy cylindrical blocks. The resulting hard anodized alloy color may have a very slightly different hue, due to the small different in density of the aluminium alloys.
satyrday
Well-Known Member
Good idea. I bet that top screen needs a cleaning. I'm not sure if this is technically correct, but I think conduction occurs through close proximity to the heat source, not just touching it, so your method makes it a much truer convection vape.
stickstones
Vapor concierge
that would be radiation...the third way to transfer heat.
Paka...are you saying you are using your older 3.2 batts in the hotter FV? I was going to try it but didn't. I tried the upside down mode with the 3.7s towards the end of a bowl and got little, but that might be due it being the end of the bowl. I was going to try the 3.2 with the normal S2 usage but didn't when others reported it didn't work.