FlashVAPE

[Pipes]

I'm curious about the Stage-2 charger and batteries.... The first S2 battery I charged took 5 and a half hours to get a full charge. The other one is charging now, and I expect it will take the same amount of time. I read earlier in the thread that the battery charge times should be around 2 to 3 hours for a depleted battery. Maybe that was true of the 3.2 volt batteries only? So I'm wondering if I got a bum charger, or if the 3.7 volt batteries really take this long to charge. If this is normal, then I'm going to need extra batteries, because an almost 6-hour charge is stretching it too far for two batteries.

Anyone else getting these long charge times, or is it just me?

Sounds a little long but not outrages. Mine took over 2 hours first charge on a 1 amp charger. The supplied charger is 1/2 amp. You may want to consider a dual 1 amp. Earlier info here.
Hopefully Flashvape will offer one down the road.?
IMO, 2 batteries will just scrap one through 4 is better.

 

[marduk]

Sounds a little long but not outrages. Mine took over 2 hours first charge on a 1 amp charger. The supplied charger is 1/2 amp. You may want to consider a dual 1 amp. Earlier info here.
Hopefully Flashvape will offer one down the road.?
IMO, 2 batteries will just scrap one through 4 is better.

Yeah I think I'll probably end up getting one of those chargers in the OF post. And a couple more batteries too.

Just had my first session. This thing is a vapor monster. OMG.

Sadly, one of the spokes on my S2 spacer broke during/after my first few tokes. I was super-gentle handling it and the screens, but anyway... still works, so that's good. I'm betting nobody will be able to go a week without breaking the spacer. It's soooo fragile. Maybe a spacer that's 2 or 3mm thicker would last, but this one has no chance.

 

[Shmoo]

Sadly, one of the spokes on my S2 spacer broke during/after my first few tokes. I was super-gentle handling it and the screens, but anyway... still works, so that's good. I'm betting nobody will be able to go a week without breaking the spacer. It's soooo fragile. Maybe a spacer that's 2 or 3mm thicker would last, but this one has no chance.

That's a bit concerning. Hopefully FlashVAPE will eventually offer replacement spacers on their site, without the rest of the kit. I can't imagine they would be that expensive on their own.

 

[marduk]

Gaahhh... It was worse than I thought. Looking through the tabbed screen, I could only see one spoke out of place. After removing the screen, I could see that the entire middle section was broken. Everything broke off at the arches on the outer ring where the spokes get thinner. The ring alone still works as a spacer, it just looks all broken and ugly.

I still love my FVS2, even though it's not as pretty on the inside as it used to be.

 

[OF]

I'm curious about the Stage-2 charger and batteries.... The first S2 battery I charged took 5 and a half hours to get a full charge. The other one is charging now, and I expect it will take the same amount of time. I read earlier in the thread that the battery charge times should be around 2 to 3 hours for a depleted battery. Maybe that was true of the 3.2 volt batteries only? So I'm wondering if I got a bum charger, or if the 3.7 volt batteries really take this long to charge. If this is normal, then I'm going to need extra batteries, because an almost 6-hour charge is stretching it too far for two batteries.

Anyone else getting these long charge times, or is it just me?

It's a half Amp charger and roughly 2 Ah batteries so worst case is about four hours. The first charge cycle or two is typically longer as a 'forming charge'. I didn't watch mine all that closely but I got so bored waiting for it I pulled out my dual one Amp charger and upped the anti some.

As a matter of course I think guys will charge their batteries when the performance starts to drop (long before full discharge) the 2 to 3 hours reported is probably about right. You get to decide if that's enough for you or if more batteries or a faster charger are in your future.

Good stuff.

Best wishes.

OF

 

[ScottyT Lefty]

Hi guys. New to the vaporization community. Been spending the last 2 years reading on your forums about portable vapes. Just pulled the trigger on a Flashvape with the S2 option. It was really a call between this or the Solo. Been a classic combustion guy for 20 yrs now so it was time to explore new options. Just wanted to say thank you for all these great posts and information sharing. I've also had some good laughs along the way. Appreciate the humor. My purchase was from Flashvape directly coming to $190.00 with the tax us Canucks have here. Placed the order yesterday, Canada Post tells me it will be here on Tuesday my birthday! That's 3 day shipping. I've really appreciated the Flashvape staff coming on here and chiming in on feedback etc. That was one of the reasons I decided on the Flashvape. Let you know how things go on Tuesday!

 

[FlashVAPE]

Hi guys. New to the vaporization community. Been spending the last 2 years reading on your forums about portable vapes. Just pulled the trigger on a Flashvape with the S2 option. It was really a call between this or the Solo. Been a classic combustion guy for 20 yrs now so it was time to explore new options. Just wanted to say thank you for all these great posts and information sharing. I've also had some good laughs along the way. Appreciate the humor. My purchase was from Flashvape directly coming to $190.00 with the tax us Canucks have here. Placed the order yesterday, Canada Post tells me it will be here on Tuesday my birthday! That's 3 day shipping. I've really appreciated the Flashvape staff coming on here and chiming in on feedback etc. That was one of the reasons I decided on the Flashvape. Let you know how things go on Tuesday!

Welcome aboard! I know you will enjoy the vaping experience, especially with the FV S2, which delivers combustion like clouds of pure vapour! Looking forward to hearing from you on Tuesday!

 

[nwcannasseur]

Well this is upsetting. It sounds as though the spacer is either too thin or too fragile. It may not be their shipping method..I wonder if the voltage is creating enough heat that with the spacer so thin its cracking. Guess will find out more over time..for those whose have broken have you removed them, are you worried about inhaling broken ceramic pieces???

 

[charliedontsurf]

Well this is upsetting. It sounds as though the spacer is either too thin or too fragile. It may not be their shipping method..I wonder if the voltage is creating enough heat that with the spacer so thin its cracking. Guess will find out more over time..for those whose have broken have you removed them, are you worried about inhaling broken ceramic pieces???

I cleaned the chamber, washed off the broken spacer and have hoped for the best. The ceramic doesn't like to flake, so I guess I feel comfortable enough with the gamble in using it. I hope a new spacer is developed that isn't so delicate - I was only gently manipulating the screen on top of it with two bamboo skewers, and really wasn't apply much force on it when it snapped.

My second 3.7 battery has been on the charger for 8+ hours and still shows red.

 

[kelper]

I've grown to love the FV and feel it is the best tool I have used in terms of control, efficiency, and perfectly cooked avb, which never goes to waste. But since I first started using it the threads that join the bottom cap to the main body have concerned me. There has always been a dirty, gritty and imprecise feeling when screwing and unscrewing the cap to replace the battery. I've brushed grit consisting of paint and metal flecks out of the threads to try and keep them clean, but with the soft metal it was a losing battle. Finally by tonight the threads deteriorated to the point that I easily cross-threaded them and that led to larger windings of the threads getting cut and ground off and thereby totally ruining the threads. The metal should be strong enough to resist damage from cross-threading when just hand-screwing (vs when utilizing the grip and leverage of a wrench), but it is not. Tomorrow I plan on filing down the outer threads and holding the bottom cap in place with a rubber band. Sad turn of events for me. Really the threads are a bad idea here anyway - should instead use some easier locking method given that the battery has to be changed so often.

 

[charliedontsurf]

...since I first started using it the threads that join the bottom cap to the main body have concerned me. There has always been a dirty, gritty and imprecise feeling when screwing and unscrewing the cap to replace the battery.

I don't like the feeling when I thread on my battery cap either, it's very rough and I have to be very careful not to cross thread it. Hopefully it won't become an issue down the line for me, but since it has sadly already become one for you, you may want to see if Flashvape will take care of it under warranty before you go doing any surgery.

On the bright side, Vito's 49 cent bubbler is an awesome addition to the FV and I really enjoy it. Cutting a little bit off of the silicone Omicron tips lets you connect it to either a FV or Solo stem easily.

 

[marduk]

I also had the gritty imprecise feeling when screwing in the battery cap at first. The rough feeling seems to be due to traces of black dust (paint?) and very tiny metal flakes in the threads and inside the battery cap. I have OCD tendencies, so I did a thorough cleaning that took about 5 minutes -- damp paper towel, toothbrush to threads, and compressed air. After this, the gritty feeling was gone, but the threads were slightly sticky and squeaky. So I applied a couple drops of Hoppes No. 9 lubricating oil to the male threads.

Now the threads feel smooth as silk.

 

[Pipes]

Me too. The feel was gritty and wanted to bind. It got a point where it bounded up and could only turn 1/8 turn back and forth and felt like it was hopeless. Scared the hell out of me and did not want to vise it.
I sprayed some "100 uses" type spray lube and it then started to turn a bit more. Worked it back and forth applying the spray when bind felt tight. To my relief, I got it off. It still felt very gritty and so I used some fine steel wool and went over the threads on the cap as well as in the tube.
Sprayed some more "100 uses" (likely similar to WD40) on a paper towel and cleaned the threads with it. The paper towel came away quite black.
It now threads like a champ and smooth feeling.
Hope this helps.

 

[Tweek]

Yeah I think I'll probably end up getting one of those chargers in the OF post. And a couple more batteries too.

Just had my first session. This thing is a vapor monster. OMG.

Sadly, one of the spokes on my S2 spacer broke during/after my first few tokes. I was super-gentle handling it and the screens, but anyway... still works, so that's good. I'm betting nobody will be able to go a week without breaking the spacer. It's soooo fragile. Maybe a spacer that's 2 or 3mm thicker would last, but this one has no chance.

Sorry to hear about the break...as long as you leave it in there, it should continue to work well. FV is really good with customer service, so drop them a line! They will take care of you.

Well this is upsetting. It sounds as though the spacer is either too thin or too fragile. It may not be their shipping method..I wonder if the voltage is creating enough heat that with the spacer so thin its cracking. Guess will find out more over time..for those whose have broken have you removed them, are you worried about inhaling broken ceramic pieces???

I don't see any reason to be concerned about inhaling broken ceramic. You have two screens filtering your vapor.

 

[FlashVAPE]

Me too. The feel was gritty and wanted to bind. It got a point where it bounded up and could only turn 1/8 turn back and forth and felt like it was hopeless. Scared the hell out of me and did not want to vise it.
I sprayed some "100 uses" type spray lube and it then started to turn a bit more. Worked it back and forth applying the spray when bind felt tight. To my relief, I got it off. It still felt very gritty and so I used some fine steel wool and went over the threads on the cap as well as in the tube.
Sprayed some more "100 uses" (likely similar to WD40) on a paper towel and cleaned the threads with it. The paper towel came away quite black.
It now threads like a champ and smooth feeling.
Hope this helps.

I should add that as with any aluminum alloy threaded part, some occasional lube and cleaning is required, the frequency really depends on how often it is used. We apply clear dielectric grease on this part when the FV is assembled. However, you can use any lube agent, including olive oil, for the organic folks.

Well this is upsetting. It sounds as though the spacer is either too thin or too fragile. It may not be their shipping method..I wonder if the voltage is creating enough heat that with the spacer so thin its cracking. Guess will find out more over time..for those whose have broken have you removed them, are you worried about inhaling broken ceramic pieces???

Well, it looks like this problem with the fragility of the S2 spacer is worse than I thought based on the reports here. Anyone who has had the S2 spacer break on them within the first week or two of receiving it, send me an email (flashvape@gmail.com) with your order number and picture of your broken spacer (best if we can see where exactly it broke, important details to help us come up with an improved design), we will be happy to resend you another S2 ceramic spacer free of charge.

For your information, the spacer actually works just as well without the center cross members if the top screen is placed properly, completely flat on top. So if your ceramic spacer's center cross members broke off, you can remove the broken ones (or all of them if you wish), and continue to use without any issues for the time being.

We will are working on a new version of this ceramic spacer that will eliminate these issues. Thanks to everyone for your feedback, so that we can continue to improve on all the different aspects of the FV!

 

[marduk]

Sorry to hear about the break...as long as you leave it in there, it should continue to work well. FV is really good with customer service, so drop them a line! They will take care of you.

Yeah, it's working fine, and the ring part seems sturdy enough. In fact I think if FV made the spacer with the same dimensions simply as a ring without the spokes, it would make things easier. Although the spokes do look cool... maybe the spokes design could remain if they beef up the size or use a tougher ceramic like the Cera...

I know FV customer service is excellent, as they helped me with a problem while my order was being processed. Maybe I will email them... but I honestly don't know what I did to cause the spacer to break, and I'm afraid a new one would just break again sooner rather than later.

edit: I see that FV has posted re the spacer so I guess I'll be in touch with them. Love my FVS2, and love the company's attitude!

 

[OF]

I should add that as with any aluminum alloy threaded part, some occasional lube and cleaning is required, the frequency really depends on how often it is used.

Heads up, guys. Man knows his materials.

It's raw Aluminum, meaning the top surface is Aluminum Oxide (happens in seconds, scratch aluminum and you get oxides right away). Aluminum Oxide is what they make sandpaper out of. You can buy it in the hardware store. It grinds down softer stuff it can get to and it's mighty hard, you can sharpen your knife on an Aluminum block for this reason. Wanna guess what all that black stuff is? Yup, ground Aluminum.

Ironically cleaning it up real good alone is making it worse.

Lubes that seal the surface control this. Greases last longer than oils. Silicone based longer than Carbon. Wax will also do it. Rubbing a candle on the male threads would probably work well.

I think FV is right, seems not everyone knows to lube tight metal stuff, it should be in the manual. Until then, he just told you the secret.

OF

 

[kelper]

Not sure I really cross-threaded it, or if the crud built up and cut itself to ribbons. Probably actually the latter as it did not appear crooked/misaligned. Regardless, thumbs down on this particular screw mechanism for someone not used to treating a vape like an industrial arts project. It should have a different locking mechanism like a 2-prong collar, or the threads should at least be sealed with paint so that they don't constantly shed debris. I have a high quality aluminum flashlight whose threads are black and appear sealed - it has no cruddy debris problem. Not a happy camper about it, but even if FV would take it on warranty, don't know if I'd be comfortable shipping it back through the federal postal system "used" ... if you get my drift.

 

[FlashVAPE]

Not sure I really cross-threaded it, or if the crud built up and cut itself to ribbons. Probably actually the latter as it did not appear crooked/misaligned. Regardless, thumbs down on this particular screw mechanism for someone not used to treating a vape like an industrial arts project. It should have a different locking mechanism like a 2-prong collar, or the threads should at least be sealed with paint so that they don't constantly shed debris. I have a high quality aluminum flashlight whose threads are black and appear sealed - it has no cruddy debris problem. Not a happy camper about it, but even if FV would take it on warranty, don't know if I'd be comfortable shipping it back through the federal postal system "used" ... if you get my drift.

This part of the thread is not anodized ("black and appear sealed") because it is designed to conduct high current electricity from the "-" end of the battery to the heating element through the body. If we were to anodize this part, the threads will no longer conduct electric current as the anodized surface is an insulator (although the thread's surface will be harder). It is actually easier to manufacturer the FV if all the adjoining threads were anodized, as it save many step in the machining process. Each exposed thread you see is cut through a separate machine process after that part has been formed and anodized, as opposed to having it all done in one go.

 

[kelper]

This part of the thread is not anodized ("black and appear sealed") because it is designed to conduct high current electricity from the "-" end of the battery to the heating element through the body. If we were to anodize this part, the threads will no longer conduct electric current as the anodized surface is an insulator (although the thread's surface will be harder). It is actually easier to manufacturer the FV if all the adjoining threads were anodized, as it save many step in the machining process. Each exposed thread you see is cut through a separate machine process after that part has been formed and anodized, as opposed to having it all done in one go.

What you say is true I am sure, but is not a practical engineering solution if the product turns into junk in less than a month. Unlike a flashlight this thing is getting unscrewed and re-screwed after every session to replace the battery - that's a lot of wear and tear in this vulnerable area. I wonder now if my rubber band solution will even work as I'm not sure it will still have enough contact to conduct the high current electricity.

 

[Pipes]

What you say is true I am sure, but is not a practical engineering solution if the product turns into junk in less than a month. Unlike a flashlight this thing is getting unscrewed and re-screwed after every session to replace the battery - that's a lot of wear and tear in this vulnerable area. I wonder now if my rubber band solution will even work as I'm not sure it will still have enough contact to conduct the high current electricity.

So to clarify, after you cleaned with suggestions from above, you still have a problem?
I found after the cleaning (fine steel wool in my case) and lubrication it screws in smoothly. Have only had to clean a couple times when I feel the gritty feeling start. No big deal.
Removing the threads and using a rubber band will likely just make the product useless. There is many amps having to pass those threads. Any bad connection will cause much heat at that point.

 

[OF]

What you say is true I am sure, but is not a practical engineering solution if the product turns into junk in less than a month. Unlike a flashlight this thing is getting unscrewed and re-screwed after every session to replace the battery - that's a lot of wear and tear in this vulnerable area. I wonder now if my rubber band solution will even work as I'm not sure it will still have enough contact to conduct the high current electricity.

Perhaps you missed it. Many of us have had our FVs for longer than that and don't have this problem. The two differences seem to be we didn't constantly clean what little protection there was away and we seem to have kept them lubed?

The killer flashlight guys change batteries at least once an hour, but hey know what lubes to use and why. Surefire and the rest use this exact same technique for the same reasons. It's considered good engineering practice in at least some circles.

I see no reason at all to think the excellent engineering we are all celebrating elsewhere on the product should have failed in this simple detail. If it was a real problem lots of other options existed IMO. The fault is in not educating owners I think, not the design itself. If I was FV I'd include a small packet of lube and some simple instructions.....but I'm not about to tell him how to run his business, he got this far without me, I'm here to enjoy.

OF

 

[kelper]

So to clarify, after you cleaned with suggestions from above, you still have a problem?
I found after the cleaning (fine steel wool in my case) and lubrication it screws in smoothly. Have only had to clean a couple times when I feel the gritty feeling start. No big deal.
Removing the threads and using a rubber band will likely just make the product useless. There is many amps having to pass those threads. Any bad connection will cause much heat at that point.

I did - I used olive oil since I don't have any "dielectric grease" handy. It's hopelessly mangled at this point. I am saying it is an engineering problem considering the product is being sent to consumers who don't know the ins and outs and potential pitfalls of non-anodized conducting threads that constantly shed debris if not kept properly lubed. I am happy for all of you Macgyvers who have this thing whipped, but remember i am just a humble consumer not versed in the practical arts of aluminum thread maintenance.

OK - after some judicious filing on both the male and female threads, I now have a friction fit end cap. No rubber band required. In fact it could just be my excited imagination thinking that I am now among the ranks of vape-MacGyvers, but I think it may be conducting electricity better now than before as it is a very tight mating of the two pieces. It sure heated up fast. I feel I am the canary in the coal mine on this problem, so at least there is a solution if you don't over-file the pieces.

mod note: Please avoid back-to-back posts, use Edit instead. Two posts merged.

 

[Tweek]

What you say is true I am sure, but is not a practical engineering solution if the product turns into junk in less than a month. Unlike a flashlight this thing is getting unscrewed and re-screwed after every session to replace the battery - that's a lot of wear and tear in this vulnerable area. I wonder now if my rubber band solution will even work as I'm not sure it will still have enough contact to conduct the high current electricity.

I've had mine for awhile and it is far from junk. I can appreciate that every users experience will be different, but the first thing I did when I received mine, was to inquire about the grease. Once I got that info, I left it where it was and just made sure to take care not to cross thread.

For what it's worth, about 15 years ago I shot a short film on a $60,000 dollar 16mm camera that had lenses which were thread mounted. The same care had to be taken not to cause damage and cross thread. The reason I mention this, is to shed light on the fact that if this can happen on a $60,000 camera as easily as a sub $200 vape, you have to consider that it is not always about poor or impractical engineering. Just the nature of the beast.

 

[kelper]

I've had mine for awhile and it is far from junk. I can appreciate that every users experience will be different, but the first thing I did when I received mine, was to inquire about the grease. Once I got that info, I left it where it was and just made sure to take care not to cross thread.

For what it's worth, about 15 years ago I shot a short film on a $60,000 dollar 16mm camera that had lenses which were thread mounted. The same care had to be taken not to cause damage and cross thread. The reason I mention this, is to shed light on the fact that if this can happen on a $60,000 camera as easily as a sub $200 vape, you have to consider that it is not always about poor engineering. Just the nature of the beast.

I only thought it was junk after it became useless to me last night - at that point it literally was useless junk. Besides this problem, I love the FV, and before I modified it to friction-fit I was about ready to order another!

Also, I understand the dangers of cross-threading, but this is the first time I have had a debris-in-the-threads issue, which I now think was the problem and not cross-threading.

One reason it may be conducting electricity better now (if that truly is the case as it seems to be) is because I now have no need for any non-conductive grease impeding electron flow.